jumpincactus
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Hope it helped........ Lots of folks kill themselves btw trying to get their ph in hydro to stay rock solid at one reading. Here are my thoughts,,,,,, if you look at ph nutrient uptake charts for soil or dro you have optimum ranges for various macro and micro nutrient uptake. If you allow your Ph to to run the gamut from the high to low end then in theory you are covering all the bases on nutrient uptake and the plant gets everything it needs...... make sense? I would set my limits when doing a nutrient change at the low end and over the next few weeks let it climb on up to the upper limits and then with next rez change would start at the low end when setting ph. Also manipulating your Ph can be useful when you flip them to flower as you stay at the Ph range that takes up the nutrients that the plant craves in flower mode. Meaning I use different ph levels in veg than when in flower....Thanks for jumping in. The more help the better
How long did you feed for? I’m on 1/2 on 1/2 off and have been trying 24/0 lights on because it’s an autoflow. Cut back nutes general hydro to half and will wait for you reply for the feedingif you have rock wool cubes you are watering too often RW is notorious for holding moisture. and you don't need to water after lights off. When I ran ebb n flo My timers were set for 4 feeds during a 18 hr light period.
I suspect your issue is overwatering bro
With 4 feeds a day we grew small trees!!!!
15 mins...... 4 times per light cycleHow long did you feed for? I’m on 1/2 on 1/2 off and have been trying 24/0 lights on because it’s an autoflow. Cut back nutes general hydro to half and will wait for you reply for the feeding
Ive for a spray for cal and mg i do that twice a day it’s not pests nd yes my first hydro grow and with n autoAutoflower plants are very delicate, in my experience I allways start at 1/2 recommended dose of nutrients, and acclimate up, autos are very easy to burn, you are growing hydroponicley? I never grew that way, but if it is pests use a little DE Earth it will kill pests organically and add a bit of cal-mag to your auto.
delicate my azz..... even autos are just a weed bro......... :D the only issue with autos is weak genetics due to the rudie in the mix........Autoflower plants are very delicate, in my experience I allways start at 1/2 recommended dose of nutrients, and acclimate up, autos are very easy to burn, you are growing hydroponicley? I never grew that way, but if it is pests use a little DE Earth it will kill pests organically and add a bit of cal-mag to your auto.
So with an 18hr cycle 4:15m no water and 15min feed? Then 6 hour break I will change my timer I am feeding every 30min for 30 min15 mins...... 4 times per light cycle
I got a free seed that I decided to test before going all in with the real grow used it as a test or lesson learner hope I get a smoke out of her then on with the tel grow hopefully in 6 Weeks or so will soi a diary so i can get more pointersIm sorry but i have to disagree, although there are some hardy autos, i have found autos much weaker than a photoperid plant, if you want the hard truth you burned your auto with to much nutrients I see this over and over.
Yeah I could see the dark green leaves. Before his plants did show some cal deficiencyIm sorry but i have to disagree, although there are some hardy autos, i have found autos much weaker than a photoperid plant, if you want the hard truth you burned your auto with to much nutrients I see this over and over.
Remember sometimes pests like to hide, and you won't see them till you have an infestation. Its happened to me before.Ive for a spray for cal and mg i do that twice a day it’s not pests nd yes my first hydro grow and with n auto
Yeah I did read about the ph range changing colors. Same site. It is my understanding that too high of a ph or even temp can make nutrients unavailable to the plant.Hope it helped........ Lots of folks kill themselves btw trying to get their ph in hydro to stay rock solid at one reading. Here are my thoughts,,,,,, if you look at ph nutrient uptake charts for soil or dro you have optimum ranges for various macro and micro nutrient uptake. If you allow your Ph to to run the gamut from the high to low end then in theory you are covering all the bases on nutrient uptake and the plant gets everything it needs...... make sense? I would set my limits when doing a nutrient change at the low end and over the next few weeks let it climb on up to the upper limits and then with next rez change would start at the low end when setting ph. Also manipulating your Ph can be useful when you flip them to flower as you stay at the Ph range that takes up the nutrients that the plant craves in flower mode. Meaning I use different ph levels in veg than when in flower....
You can also manipulate the color of some certain genetics by running acidic or alkaline depending on the strain.
See link............ http://www.growweedeasy.com/does-ph-affect-cannabis-bud-color
Play around and see if you have strains that can be color controlled with acidic or alkaline ph ranges.
Will take a lookI've been looking at some videos at you tube from a Dr Harvey from NPK University. He promotes a brand named RAW.*not the paper brand. He's a plant scientist, likes to talk about the Netherlands a lot. Any one seen this
Im a chef own my own resto I’ve got a 10min drive home couldn’t cope with 2 hours I’d fall asleep on the the way!!!There's several videos I was gonna post a link but I'm on my way home (2hr drive) 1 1/2 left
What kind of foodIm a chef own my own resto I’ve got a 10min drive home couldn’t cope with 2 hours I’d fall asleep on the the way!!!
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