Autoflower new growth is yellow

Ninjadogma · Nov 3, 2025

JIMKSI64 said:
The first grow of a strain is where you learn the nutritional needs and the light limits for the specific plant. I am on my 3rd grow on my specific Apple Fritter and the first 3 plants got amended differently and I figured this out
You are correct that nitrogen is a mobile nutrient and that a fade would normally rob lowers. I have no answer for that. I have looked at the nutrients and as I suspected you are not using it to the feed chart. There is also a huge hole in nitrogen in the bloom tab and a complete lack of phosphorus in the grow tab. In addition this appears to be a chemical nutrient system that is readily available to the plant but as always that is dependant on a proper pH environment.
2 ways to get sideways on chemical nutes. Overuse can cause a lockout. pH out of range for uptake.

Any chance we had a bout of overwatering for a week or 2 in the history of the grow? Wet feet syndrome would explain this.

Chemical ferts in soil work fine but they have rules to follow. Normally a grower checks the incoming EC and the outgoing EC for trends when things go wrong. It will indicate a plant eating or a plant in lockout. When testing the outflow for EC is when you check your pot pH.
Lots of guys run chemicals at feed chart specs and never check anything and never have a problem. I is not one of those guys as I run organic top dress and ferts.
Good luck.
Went back to post the NPK and it looks like RQS translation of the page from German to English is hosed. I found it the first time I linked but the second time it went all German and dropped the information.

Aw come on Jim who doesn't like a good game of soil roulette? Start with a nutrient rich organic soil, put some good dry amends in along the way, and then mix your wet nutes and check your incoming and outgoing EC and pH numbers as you go and try and figure out what's all going on

Seriously anybody stumbling on this in the future dont try this, you're gonna probably have a really bad time figuring out what's what.

AutoMisery said:
I thought they were mineral nutrients that are instantly available to the plants since they don’t have to be converted by the microbes anymore?

Thats the reason ive been watering untill 20% runoff

I think you've got it the other way around.

AutoMisery · Nov 3, 2025

Ninjadogma said:
Aw come on Jim who doesn't like a good game of soil roulette? Start with a nutrient rich organic soil, put some good dry amends in along the way, and then mix your wet nutes and check your incoming and outgoing EC and pH numbers as you go and try and figure out what's all going on

Seriously anybody stumbling on this in the future dont try this, you're gonna probably have a really bad time figuring out what's what.

I think you've got it the other way around.

So organic nutrients are instantly bioavailable?
Or my nutrients are not minerals?

It would make more sense to me that organic nutrients first have to be absorbed by the soil microbes before its available while mineral nutrients are salts that can immediately be used.
And i was under the impression that these tablets are mostly salts ready to go?

KG1 · Nov 3, 2025

AutoMisery said:
So organic nutrients are instantly bioavailable?
Or my nutrients are not minerals?

It would make more sense to me that organic nutrients first have to be absorbed by the soil microbes before its available while mineral nutrients are salts that can immediately be used.
And i was under the impression that these tablets are mostly salts ready to go?

Each organic source and nutrient is different but as a blanket assumption assume in a bottle about a quarter to third is instantly available or will be quickly and the rest needs a few days to breakdown over supplying the bulk of their nutrients in that time frame.

Fish mix is quite quick acting with a large amount available straight away which is why it can fix a nitrogen deficiency quickly or cause toxicity fast if over applied as an example of something with fast action.

No idea your problem but if you just flipped to bloom and had issues go back to veg feed more maybe as some blooms kill nitrogen when we still want it in a more balanced NPK still.

orggrwr · Nov 3, 2025

Those tablets you're using are meant to be used as a supplement to regular nutes. Have never used them but it states in the link you posted they are meant to be used with fertilizer, not in place of it. Not to late, get some good nutes and start feeding your plants

Ninjadogma · Nov 3, 2025

orggrwr said:
Those tablets you're using are meant to be used as a supplement to regular nutes. Have never used them but it states in the link you posted they are meant to be used with fertilizer, not in place of it. Not to late, get some good nutes and start feeding your plants

Emergency backup, I love it

Ninjadogma · Nov 3, 2025

AutoMisery said:
So organic nutrients are instantly bioavailable?
Or my nutrients are not minerals?

It would make more sense to me that organic nutrients first have to be absorbed by the soil microbes before its available while mineral nutrients are salts that can immediately be used.
And i was under the impression that these tablets are mostly salts ready to go?

For any portion of a dry nutrient to become available to a plant, it has to be converted to a soluble form. Liquid nutes are already ahead of the curve being pre-dissolved and contain nutrients in ionic forms that plants can absorb immediately.

Minerals become available to plants through a variety of ways. They include chemical processes like chelation, biological decomposition as microbes digest organic matter and mineral particles, and environmental reactions — for example, rainwater with a pH around 6.5 can activate microbial communities and trigger a phosphate release frenzy. Each of these processes helps convert minerals into ionized forms that roots can absorb.

Until that conversion happens, minerals often remain in an unavailable state, either as undissolved particles or bound up in mineral salts. If too many of these salts accumulate without being broken down — especially in dry or compacted soil — they can cause stress, lockout, or root damage.

So why are some nutrients immediately available while others are not? Liquid fertilizers are formulated to include a portion of nutrients in highly soluble, ionic forms for rapid uptake, while the rest may be designed for gradual release through microbial, chemical, or environmental pathways. So they eat some now and save some for later.

AutoMisery · Nov 4, 2025

orggrwr said:
Those tablets you're using are meant to be used as a supplement to regular nutes. Have never used them but it states in the link you posted they are meant to be used with fertilizer, not in place of it. Not to late, get some good nutes and start feeding your plants

What nutrients should I get? I tried bottles of plagron alga grow/bloom and terra bloom and even with proper storage it got moldy after a month.
So I bought a 20dollar bottle that I used once before it went to waste
That’s why I wanted dry nutrients.

But Im confused since in the link I sent the description of the tablet says theyre “all in one” and contain “all micro and macro elements”.
It says you can use it alongside their easy grow pellets but almost all of the products on their website say you can or should use it alongside one of their other products.
I thought I should skip those fertilezer pellets since I would be using a hot soil and those tablets were advertised as “all in one”

amneziaHaze · Nov 4, 2025

Ninjadogma said:
Howdy grower! Just doing a drive by on your post, impressed with that rapid 10 day growth. Plant just looks hungry to me, I think you're good. I presume you trust what you're feeding them has everything, but a couple things to note are the brown spots and general light color developing in some of the fans. So if upping the feeding you still see any of those brown spots developing, you could supplement with a little gypsum but always check compatibility of what you're adding and whether or not things have to be mixed in a certain order to avoid reactions that could block the nutrients. That pH is a bit high, it will grow okay where it's at but will do better with soil sitting around 6.2-6.5. Good luck and keep us posted with updated pics showing her happier and recovered and those buds starting to swell!

If she was hungry ahe would sacrifice bottom leafs in the shadows to feed the top but bottom looks full of life.my firat idea is too much nutes but i dont know all the variables from this grow
Organic nutes are nutes that have carbon in them thats the only thing that makes them organic

AutoMisery · Nov 4, 2025

amneziaHaze said:
If she was hungry ahe would sacrifice bottom leafs in the shadows to feed the top but bottom looks full of life.my firat idea is too much nutes but i dont know all the variables from this grow

Do si dos auto on day 57 from emerging outta the ground.
80x80cm tent.
Temperatures been stable around 23-25during lights on and 20-21 during the lights off.
Mars hydro ts1000 on 18/6cycle.
Its about 33 from the highest branch of the biggest plant and about 43cm from the tallest branch of the smaller plant on the left.
Humidity has been stable on about 43-55%.
I have airflow with a clip on fan over the canopy under the lamp and one fan on the ceiling blowing down into the opposite corner of the clip on fan.

My PH and EC meters will be arriving tomorrow so I will water a bit sooner than necessary to check the EC and PH levels.

If I water on thursday should I just regularly water to check the runoff or just immediately add some nutes?

Im getting worried about the left one because its suddenly getting alot of rusty spots on the leaves out of nowhere, chatgpt tells me its a cal/mag deficiency.

amneziaHaze · Nov 4, 2025

What medium are you growing in and what nutes and how often do you use them
Doesnr really look like magnesium its spotty magnesium gives full lines.calcium can be the spots whats in your water do you use tap water usually tap water is full with calcium

AutoMisery · Nov 4, 2025

amneziaHaze said:
What medium are you growing in and what nutes and how often do you use them

15l of plagron growmix soil with some extra added perlite.
I use dry nutrient tablets that are advertised as all in one nutrients with all macro and micro elements allthough somebody just told me theyre not enough on their own.

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amneziaHaze · Nov 4, 2025

They are usually slow relese soo they can make more problems when they start melting more and you start ading new nutes...

AutoMisery · Nov 5, 2025

Ninjadogma said:
Aw come on Jim who doesn't like a good game of soil roulette? Start with a nutrient rich organic soil, put some good dry amends in along the way, and then mix your wet nutes and check your incoming and outgoing EC and pH numbers as you go and try and figure out what's all going on

Seriously anybody stumbling on this in the future dont try this, you're gonna probably have a really bad time figuring out what's what.

I think you've got it the other way around.

The necrosis is getting worse quickly and the leaves are starting to point down. I think its because the soil is still very wet.
I dont get it because usually the 4l is completely dried up by day 5 but now after 3 days the top of the soil isnt even dry.

Is this definitely a PH problem since theyre not even drinking enough anymore or something?
I cant water and check runoff PH because theyre already overwatered.

Autoflower new growth is yellow

Autoflower new growth is yellow

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Autoflower new growth is yellow

Autoflower new growth is yellow

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