mandalaman
- 2,367
- 263
Can I get a shot of the baby carriage please? :)
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
Well 400 watt, they say half peasy... So 8 zips but you may do bettter with your canopy!
mandalaman
- 2,367
- 263
That's impressive !!!ya buddy you could do something like this. Outdoors the sky is the limit and the amount of veg time the season gives you before flower sets in.
mandalaman
- 2,367
- 263
MAY???? Lol
mandalaman
- 2,367
- 263
If rmoltis doesn't pull better than average with that level of control then none of this is worth it at all hahah I'll go Johnny pumpkin seed and just fling seeds everywhere.
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
You can only pull what your light will pull... we see!
rmoltis
The Beast Slayer
Supporter
- 3,912
- 263
If it were 1 gram per watt it would be 14.28 zips.
My tiny tent is my biggest limiting factor. If I had a 3x3 it would be more ideal (%220 more sq footage). Could get closer to the averages.
It is very tough pulling big yields from small spaces. If I pull 8-10 I'll be ecstatic. I worked hard to maximize my canopy. I really hope it's worth it.
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
Well you provided us a great chance to find out!
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
Well I should be looking at 40 then at 1/gpw...
incogneato
- 7,177
- 313
Damn dude, you're just straight killin it with that thing man.
justiceman
- 2,718
- 263
The canopy management is unreal! It's a damned masterpiece. What ever you do yield it looks to be pretty damned close to the MAX that space can produce. Excellent use of space for sure.
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
I haven't experienced 1 g/per watt yet. But I'm running 2 600's so I need 1200!! .I don't know about that!. I've been happy getting .5/watt.. ... but I definitely am looking forward to this fall when I open the room back up... I will be going for the 1/gpw...
But ttttttttttttt.
I also compute grow time. I'm not gonna veg 40 years to get 1 gpw.
They get max 80 days from clone to harvest.
But I veg in the cloner... so lol I do cheat a lil...
I just topped a couple of my clones. I wanted to top them all. But I want to see the lower branches get their first set of true leaves started so they trsnsfer energy quicker to lower growth when topped. Lol 6 of them already have 2 tops because if you watch me you know I'm famous for cloning a topped top.
Saw it on YouTube and I love it. Saves me 2 weeks veg just with that. ..
EventHorizan
- 15,707
- 438
Anybody familiar with monster cropping?
rmoltis
The Beast Slayer
Supporter
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Thanks guys
I agree it is at its max or very close I feel.
I have my lights maxed and the closest top is 6" from the hps fixtures glass.
Many of the perimeter cola's are all squished against the tent walls. And the Core cola's are pushing them there.
Here are a couple more photos after hps went off..
Last edited:
thunderfudge
Breeder
- 3,262
- 263
very nice brother! crushing her!
F
FooDoo
- 1,278
- 263
ok i need to learn how to manage my canopy better. inspiring work brother
justiceman
- 2,718
- 263
I have this same thought every single time rmoltis posts a beast hahahahaha.
rmoltis
The Beast Slayer
Supporter
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Thanks guys!
I've been thinking about what I should name this training technique/style. And I've decided...
Field Of Cola's.
It is a technique comprised of a mix of multiple training techniques into 1.
But the overall point of my technique is to maximize the total number of main stems/cola's within a given space.
My grow space is divided into subsets in my mind.
The White Zone.
It is the amount of vertical space taken up by the pot itself. This space is a constant between grows. It will be determined by your final pot sizes.
For me the 15 gallon was the biggest I could go horizontally. But it had to be trimmed down 5" vertically into a 10 gallon pot so as to not take up too many cu ft of real estate.
The width of the pot was very important here because I needed the pot top edge to tie my plants down onto. So getting the widest one possible was the most ideal scenario.
If not wide enough I'm sure people could make a tie off shelf around the plant pot to tie off all branches as needed. But I'm trying to keep it simple.
The Red Zone.
This is where the manifold coming off the trunk comes into play. Your goal here is to keep the manifold as close to the ground as possible to help maximize vertical space useage.
You let your plant grow into its 5,6,7th nodes from seed to allow it time to establish roots, thicken up the trunk, and develop the 1st 2 node sets branches. Keep these 1st 2 nodes tied flat as they grow out. Then top above the 2nd node. This should leave your plant 1-3" above the soil top.
Now you keep all her new branches tied down growing flat towards the pot perimeter which is ideally the size of the space. Or you could split it up into multiple plants/pots.
The goal here is not to top. You want the growth tips filling the flat branches from core to pot perimeter. That way you fill the core with many main stems.
Now this red zone it is the area that you will have no flowering sites.
It is the boundary point where only larf grows below.
Before flower my goal in veg is to leave as many fans as possible down here.
This is because if they are below the buds they block no light, They store nutrients, they lightly photosynthesis, and as the plant decides it no longer needs them in flower she consumes them for nutrients.
As she is defoliated in flower those lower leaves receive light and over the flowering cycle only the ones she deems still functioning well stay until the end of flower.
The other thing about this red zone.
It's basically the foundation of all the buds growing in. The goal for the red zone is to get the main plant canopy into the next upper zone to get it filled efficiently.
The Blue Zone
This is the zone of lighting penetration. It is comprised of 2 zones.
The upper lighter blue zone is where maximum light exposure roasts the canopy with photons. All the main tops grow in here.
Below that point is the darker blue zone. It is where light penetrates effectively to produce quality non larf buds (this must be found out personally relative to each persons grow environment). Basically maxing out every cu inch of those zones with flowering sites ensures me highest possible quality and highest possible yield in my space.
You can shift that zone downwards but the smaller plants with less veg would have a lower overall potential yield compared to the plant given more time to establish extra roots, branches, leaves etc. The goal here is maxing out your space.
The Green Zone.
This zone is the heat buffer zone.
It is the proper distance to keep your canopy from roasting. Yet close enough to maximize the light intensity upon the canopy and help penetrate deeper under it. This is where your clip on fan blows air over the canopy helping it stay cool and transpire.
The Orange Zone.
This zone just reminds me there's space taken up dedicated to only equipment and nothing else.
Now overall you notice that really only a small portion of my space is in the ideal zone. Just measured on the beast this high efficiency zone is "24W×"24L×"15T.
Which is 5 cubic feet approximately out of the 20 cu ft total tent space.
This means only 1/4 of the grow space is dedicated to maximum efficiency.
Which is why training helps maximize yield
You would need extra supplemental lighting under that canopy if you want to produce in those lower zones.
I just love me a field of cola's :cool:
I've been thinking about what I should name this training technique/style. And I've decided...
Field Of Cola's.
It is a technique comprised of a mix of multiple training techniques into 1.
But the overall point of my technique is to maximize the total number of main stems/cola's within a given space.
My grow space is divided into subsets in my mind.
The White Zone.
It is the amount of vertical space taken up by the pot itself. This space is a constant between grows. It will be determined by your final pot sizes.
For me the 15 gallon was the biggest I could go horizontally. But it had to be trimmed down 5" vertically into a 10 gallon pot so as to not take up too many cu ft of real estate.
The width of the pot was very important here because I needed the pot top edge to tie my plants down onto. So getting the widest one possible was the most ideal scenario.
If not wide enough I'm sure people could make a tie off shelf around the plant pot to tie off all branches as needed. But I'm trying to keep it simple.
The Red Zone.
This is where the manifold coming off the trunk comes into play. Your goal here is to keep the manifold as close to the ground as possible to help maximize vertical space useage.
You let your plant grow into its 5,6,7th nodes from seed to allow it time to establish roots, thicken up the trunk, and develop the 1st 2 node sets branches. Keep these 1st 2 nodes tied flat as they grow out. Then top above the 2nd node. This should leave your plant 1-3" above the soil top.
Now you keep all her new branches tied down growing flat towards the pot perimeter which is ideally the size of the space. Or you could split it up into multiple plants/pots.
The goal here is not to top. You want the growth tips filling the flat branches from core to pot perimeter. That way you fill the core with many main stems.
Now this red zone it is the area that you will have no flowering sites.
It is the boundary point where only larf grows below.
Before flower my goal in veg is to leave as many fans as possible down here.
This is because if they are below the buds they block no light, They store nutrients, they lightly photosynthesis, and as the plant decides it no longer needs them in flower she consumes them for nutrients.
As she is defoliated in flower those lower leaves receive light and over the flowering cycle only the ones she deems still functioning well stay until the end of flower.
The other thing about this red zone.
It's basically the foundation of all the buds growing in. The goal for the red zone is to get the main plant canopy into the next upper zone to get it filled efficiently.
The Blue Zone
This is the zone of lighting penetration. It is comprised of 2 zones.
The upper lighter blue zone is where maximum light exposure roasts the canopy with photons. All the main tops grow in here.
Below that point is the darker blue zone. It is where light penetrates effectively to produce quality non larf buds (this must be found out personally relative to each persons grow environment). Basically maxing out every cu inch of those zones with flowering sites ensures me highest possible quality and highest possible yield in my space.
You can shift that zone downwards but the smaller plants with less veg would have a lower overall potential yield compared to the plant given more time to establish extra roots, branches, leaves etc. The goal here is maxing out your space.
The Green Zone.
This zone is the heat buffer zone.
It is the proper distance to keep your canopy from roasting. Yet close enough to maximize the light intensity upon the canopy and help penetrate deeper under it. This is where your clip on fan blows air over the canopy helping it stay cool and transpire.
The Orange Zone.
This zone just reminds me there's space taken up dedicated to only equipment and nothing else.
Now overall you notice that really only a small portion of my space is in the ideal zone. Just measured on the beast this high efficiency zone is "24W×"24L×"15T.
Which is 5 cubic feet approximately out of the 20 cu ft total tent space.
This means only 1/4 of the grow space is dedicated to maximum efficiency.
Which is why training helps maximize yield
You would need extra supplemental lighting under that canopy if you want to produce in those lower zones.
I just love me a field of cola's :cool:
Last edited:
jumpincactus
Premium Member
Supporter
- 11,609
- 438
Just to be clear, :) That pic isnt my work, I pirated it from the web somewhere. Just really liked it and pictured it in my backyard. :cool::fire::fire::fire::fire:
justiceman
- 2,718
- 263
What the FOC that's a nice write up.
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