ah OK, do you use a P based product and Mycos together? Do you allow for the mycorrhization to be complete before adding additional P, I am assuming EJ has a level of P present, but since its a system, I was hoping you might tell me that you have no to low (under 80ppms) P where you add after treatment with the glomus. If not you may well be wasting your money on Mycos and you may be getting a bacterial based soil which would lean more base by nature of bio film secretions and the need for bacteria to fix N at levels often above pH7.0. If this is the case your protein short may have originated from a lack of Fe which would point to a failure of Mycorrhization and so a pH swing out of favour for many metals such as Fe, and adding the light being the root cause, where the photons are falling at a rate that can not be converted through sufficient chlorophyll production due to a lack of Fe pick up.
you are like me bro, fed up wasting time on princesses. Sannie seeds got some gear for you. I have been abusing the shit out of a room full of his gear, testing some new cold weather microbes we found in sweden, not 1 herm in sight and we have been roughing them up big time. We got a bit of drift in the nutes, including plenty of red stems, far worse than this pic too ;-) but the plants are growing, the ones we treated are recovering, even with the temps dropped right out and a constant stream of Estonian winter air, water fed in at 5C, they are rough but the test is to see what we lose and at what stage, what we kept, what comes back faster, what fails. Lucky we have a side by side so a tent full of goodness to smoke. I cant tell you how nice it is to have stable genes when testing microbes.
If he progresses too far on a veg light cycle,it's got autoflowering traits.I myself wouldn't use him.
glad to see you've got that one sorte, i see lots of T5's no fans, they do still need air :-)
good man, glad to see someone is concerned about the mass of breeding genetic weakness and making us pay for that too LOL
I abuse everything here.lol.it's easy with bottles and coco,just don't add cal mag.lol
always hunting,always culling weakness.I would be happy as hell for 2 true keepers in the bunch
In soil, which has some organic NPK anyway, I feed my plants filtered water with some Calmag in it for up to 2 weeks after applying Mycos. Calcium is critical for Mycorrhization to occur, but P inhibits the signaling response from the plant, so the Myco reaches out, says hi, but the plant fails to respond and the myco plasma retreats, it may try again, but if you plant is hooked on water soluble P by then, all of it will be for nothing. it is ca2++ that carries this signal, so Ca good, P bad. once you have colonisation, typically i am repotting after 2 weeks from seed or cut so i can see for myself, Only then will I use a P based product. I use a 5-0-2 then switch to an 8-7-7 by about week 3-4 veg. I stay on this to week 5-6 bloom after transition and i switch to a 3-0-8. The only other thing I add is a 1-0-6 plant tonic to promote overall well being and add microbes, this i do from day 7 to day 21 bloom. I very occasionally run an organic acid treatment for balancing soil, scavenging radicals etc, to prevent pH swings and to chelate any iron in event of need.
hahaha i know right, all that work. I have been doing this for 20 plus years and i have only managed to produce 6 plants myself. i cant tell you how many we have planted over the years to get even 6. When i see a breeder knocking out 10 strains a year i worry
that's all ultimate chem 08 f2,I always assume on 50% males,so hopefully we'll get 14 and 14.
yeah thats plenty on a t5 set up, well unless you hook all 12 up and those HO T5 lamps are pokey man. my boy grows his plants under then 400W worth of T5's he loves them as he grows in trays and they fit well :-)
Mainly I want light spread.
