Baking soil to kill fungus gnat larvae

  • Thread starter Fuego012
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
N

Natep

609
93
When you guys put de on top how do you top dress and take care of your cover crop?
 
quirk

quirk

774
143
After filling my 5 gal airpots with my choice of soil, I pre-moisten to run-off incorporating a BTI drench to prevent any eggs surviving in my root zone and developing into adults. I repeat the BTI drench every 30 days. This took care of my horrible fungus gnat infestation.
 
IMG 20230326 094418081 HDR
Z

Zill

1,322
163
Natep,

DE shell fragments get in between legs and shell and wears an hole. They evaporate to death. It’s mechanical. LoveGrowing had a great idea - put something in between DE and soil. It needs to be top dressed sitting on the soil so the insect walks onto the silicone shards.
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

Staff
Supporter
4,503
263
Natep,

DE shell fragments get in between legs and shell and wears an hole. They evaporate to death. It’s mechanical. LoveGrowing had a great idea - put something in between DE and soil. It needs to be top dressed sitting on the soil so the insect walks onto the silicone shards.
That’s why I add an inch or so of perlite then top dress that with the DE works like a charm 😁
After filling my 5 gal airpots with my choice of soil, I pre-moisten to run-off incorporating a BTI drench to prevent any eggs surviving in my root zone and developing into adults. I repeat the BTI drench every 30 days. This took care of my horrible fungus gnat infestation.
I keep my mosquito bits / BT in my water at all times, water with it every watering, since then I went from having gnats all the time to none.

I only resort to the DE if I see something, not a fan of the dust flying around if I can help it, other than that it’s the BT water every watering
 
N

Natep

609
93
Natep,

DE shell fragments get in between legs and shell and wears an hole. They evaporate to death. It’s mechanical. LoveGrowing had a great idea - put something in between DE and soil. It needs to be top dressed sitting on the soil so the insect walks onto the silicone shards.
So how do you top dress after using de? I don’t believe you want it mixed down in your soil. That you only want it on the surface. How do you mulch in your layers to keep you soil fertile? I drop all my leaves on the top of my bed. The worms eat them and break them down.
 
N

Natep

609
93
That’s why I add an inch or so of perlite then top dress that with the DE works like a charm 😁

I keep my mosquito bits / BT in my water at all times, water with it every watering, since then I went from having gnats all the time to none.

I only resort to the DE if I see something, not a fan of the dust flying around if I can help it, other than that it’s the BT water every watering
I don’t use perlite. It tends to rise in the beds. Pumice seems to hold its elevation a bit better imo.
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

Staff
Supporter
4,503
263
So how do you top dress after using de? I don’t believe you want it mixed down in your soil. That you only want it on the surface. How do you mulch in your layers to keep you soil fertile? I drop all my leaves on the top of my bed. The worms eat them and break them down.
Never hurts in the soil as well, usually my initial mix for veg then again for flower I’ll mix in a cup, dosent hurt the soil, in fact it has silica in it to help strengthen those stems up

But i don’t top dress with DE at the same time I top dress with my amendments I do the amendments first, mix that into the top inch or 2 of soil, then water in, (it’s only once a month anyways) then i wouldn’t add the DE for at least a day or so just to let the top layer dry out a shade, then if it’s for an infestation I do the 1”-2” of perlite on top and then sprinkle the DE all over the top of that, the gnats will have to crawl through the perlite/DE and will be coated

I personally use the blondie brand DE easy to get at any local nursery no need to order online etc


The two main types of diatomaceous earth vary in their concentrations of crystalline silica:

  • Food Grade: This type contains 0.5–2% crystalline silica and is used as an insecticide and an anti-caking agent in the agricultural and food industries. It is approved for use by the EPA, USDA, and FDA (3, 4).
  • Filter Grade: Also known as non-food-grade, this type contains upwards of 60% crystalline silica. It is toxic to mammals but has many industrial uses, including water filtration and dynamite production.
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

Staff
Supporter
4,503
263
I don’t use perlite. It tends to rise in the beds. Pumice seems to hold its elevation a bit better imo.
Yeah I do get some rise of perlite when I look at the root balls after harvest, not enough to effect anything but it does happen. I also run in peat moss opposed to soil, I did notice it more when I ran in soil than I do now in the peat moss
 
N

Natep

609
93
Yeah I do get some rise of perlite when I look at the root balls after harvest, not enough to effect anything but it does happen. I also run in peat moss opposed to soil, I did notice it more when I ran in soil than I do now in the peat moss
It will make a difference 10 grows down the road. The bottom of the bed will not have any aeration left.
 
Mikedin

Mikedin

Staff
Supporter
4,503
263
It will make a difference 10 grows down the road. The bottom of the bed will not have any aeration left.
Oh for sure in a no till, I wish I had the patience I love organic and top dress but wasent a fan when I ran clover cover crop, was originally the method I was going to use but found I liked straight peat moss with perlite, but that’s the best part about growin, so many different ways to grow the same plant 😁
 
Whip316

Whip316

3
3
We have a greenhouse and when we used to grow mums and snapdragons in our beds we used to steam the dirt before each planting to kill off any seeds, weeds bugs or eggs. But we don’t grow them anymore. We converted 4 greenhouses into growing hydroponic lettuce. And we start the seeds in oasis cubes. And we always have some fungus gnats around cause of the water and algae we have. I do know that peroxide at certain amounts will kill the eggs and larvae. But you have to dose often because the egg cycles are 3 days. So it’s hard to keep ahead of. We also soak the oasis cubes and the seedlings in formalin I believe For 10 min a few days before putting the cubes into the hydro channels. We use sticky traps. And I heard dryer sheets work well. But water is the main reason. The dryer you can keep it the better. Where we get puddles forming and algae growing we spray a bleach solution. Kill the algae and the larvae and eggs too.
But I heard putting like 1/2 inch of sand on top of your soil. Anything you can do to keep them off your soil to lay their eggs.
 
H

hilbert

184
93
But I heard putting like 1/2 inch of sand on top of your soil. Anything you can do to keep them off your soil to lay their eggs.
I have done this in the past. Put like an inch of sand at both the top AND THE BOTTOM of the pots. Keeps the flies from having any place to lay eggs.
 
N

Noly.farms

15
3
I found a way to eradicate fungus gnats: baking soda. Sprinkle it lightly on the soil and moisten it enough for it to penetrate about a half inch into the soil. The fungus gnat larvae eat it and die. It needs to be repeated several times up to at least 17 days, which is the life cycle length of the gnats.

This works. I applied baking soda three times on my current grow. The last application was 17 days after the first. I haven't seen a gnat since.
Hey what’s up, ever run into fungus in the leaves ? Can plants be saved?
 
IMG 8420
IMG 8419
Oldchucky

Oldchucky

Supporter
4,871
263
Google, white powdery, mildew, and solutions for it! If that’s what it is. You should be able to rub a little of it off if it is!
 
Thatoneguyyouknow_

Thatoneguyyouknow_

319
143
you can mix a solution with hydrogen peroxide and water to do this without having to bake soil. I use homemade compost alot, i have to deal with these little ass hats pretty frequently. The dilution ratio escapes me, but it could easily be looked up

After the treatment, i put a little handful of some jobes organics pellet feed and water it through very lightly into the surface of the container. I use that because its cheap and available at any home/garden store or nursery, walmart, ace, and then some. And because fantastic product for recolonizing soils with wanted and beneficial organisms. (precolonized with archea, bacteria, fungi, all kinds of excellent stuf)

Ive never had an issue treating gnat larvae with hydrogen peroxide, nor recolonizing any dead soil with this stuff.


Btw, you dont have to buy Trichoderma, that white fungus that grows on old bread that terns a greyish green when exposed to air movement, thats Trichoderma. The smelly one that turns orange, thats penicillium. Trichoderma is actually the cheapest, easiest organism to cultivate on the planet.
 
09086 Tomato Vegetable Slow Release GA
Last edited:
Top Bottom