Ballin' On a Budget- THE RECIPE

  • Thread starter BillFarthing
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radmobile

radmobile

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If you are doing sealed room CO2, I suggest bumping it up to 3.6 Jack's/2.4 Cal Nit/1.2 epsom. I would suggest supplementing with epsom with CMH and LED fixtures.

Also, the easiest way to bump calcium content without additional supplementation is to use Haifa Cal Prime instead of their regular Cal Nit.
Any benefits in using Recharge every other week? Have you?
 
farmer219

farmer219

73
18
Recharge is humic acid, very little fulvic acid, carbon, and kelp. It is compatible with fulvic, amino and organic acids in Mr. Fulvic. There's no overlap, so it can't hurt although it's yet another product to use.
I still have a bottle of liquid karma that i stopped using after i switched to a drip irrigation system but is Mr Fulvic good for drip systems?
 
radmobile

radmobile

92
33
I’m going to try this recipe. Was wondering what medium you are using. Would this recipe apply to soil already charged?
1F0369FF 887F 4772 92CD F9BDBFACEE79
Am I on point?
 
workngrow

workngrow

219
63
I also use similar recipe. Jacks A+B and Epsom Salt, Jacks Bloom Booster, Botanicare Silica Blast and Hydroguard because its all going into RDWC. I am curious about the Fulvic Acid as I have been seeing it mentioned. It was mentioned here about the Chelation/Amino Acids but what does that do for the plant is my curiosity? Should it be used throughout the plants life?

Also I am curious about identifying appropriate/recommended ppm levels at certain stages of plant life. What has been recommended here at times has been vastly different than nute companies suggest and I have trusted that but the main question with the adjusted or tailored feeding schedules is identifying either visually what the plant is doing or knowing how many weeks have surpassed. How do you guys go about determining those things in a comparable regimen?
 
BillFarthing

BillFarthing

Supporter
472
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I also use similar recipe. Jacks A+B and Epsom Salt, Jacks Bloom Booster, Botanicare Silica Blast and Hydroguard because its all going into RDWC. I am curious about the Fulvic Acid as I have been seeing it mentioned. It was mentioned here about the Chelation/Amino Acids but what does that do for the plant is my curiosity? Should it be used throughout the plants life?

Also I am curious about identifying appropriate/recommended ppm levels at certain stages of plant life. What has been recommended here at times has been vastly different than nute companies suggest and I have trusted that but the main question with the adjusted or tailored feeding schedules is identifying either visually what the plant is doing or knowing how many weeks have surpassed. How do you guys go about determining those things in a comparable regimen?
Fulvic acid is going to be compatible with a living reservoir using Hydroguard. It is not compatible with strong oxidizers like hypochlorous acid (UC Roots, Athena Cleanse) because it creates biofilm when combined.

I use FA as a drench start to day of harvest. When using it in flush, the minerals build brix, retain proper sap pH and prevent osmotic pressure.

As far as dosage, it is active from a few ppm up to 250 ppm for plants. You may have to reduce your base fertilizer 10-25% if using higher application rates. Human health benefits from 50-100 mg of fulvic acid a day as well.
 
jguit

jguit

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As far as dosage, it is active from a few ppm up to 250 ppm for plants. You may have to reduce your base fertilizer 10-25% if using higher application rates. Human health benefits from 50-100 mg of fulvic acid a day as well.
Do you suggest starting at the recommended dosage of 1/4 tsp per gallon? Is there a way to optimize/balance the dosage with the fertilizer? If i dont get too lazy, I'm going to try and do a side by side comparing 321, fulvic and si and straight 321 on the my next run.
 
BillFarthing

BillFarthing

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Do you suggest starting at the recommended dosage of 1/4 tsp per gallon? Is there a way to optimize/balance the dosage with the fertilizer? If i dont get too lazy, I'm going to try and do a side by side comparing 321, fulvic and si and straight 321 on the my next run.
The 3-2-1 is grams per gallon. I don't do powders by volume. Let us know how it goes.
 
jguit

jguit

Supporter
905
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The 3-2-1 is grams per gallon. I don't do powders by volume. Let us know how it goes.
Correct, I measure Jack's by weight as well. I was referring to the Fulvic acid. The recommended dosage on Mr. Fulvic's website is 1/4 tsp per gallon. Is this your suggested starting point?
 
radmobile

radmobile

92
33
The 3-2-1 is grams per gallon. I don't do powders by volume. Let us know how it goes.
Correct, I measure Jack's by weight as well. I was referring to the Fulvic acid. The recommended dosage on Mr. Fulvic's website is 1/4 tsp per gallon. Is this your suggested starting point?
The bottle says 1 ml per gallon of feed water. I have been using it for about 3 weeks and I see a difference already.
 
mikeross

mikeross

444
43
The bottle says 1 ml per gallon of feed water. I have been using it for about 3 weeks and I see a difference already.

Nice, you notice a difference and the fulvic is the only change in your current regime? What week in flower are you in?
 
radmobile

radmobile

92
33
Nice, you notice a difference and the fulvic is the only change in your current regime? What week in flower are you in?
Week 5.
Nice, you notice a difference and the fulvic is the only change in your current regime? What week in flower are you in?
Week 4. I saw deficiencies in random foliage - that has since cured itself following the Mr. Fulvic addition. A small bottle goes a long way at 1 ml/gallon.
 
BillFarthing

BillFarthing

Supporter
472
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Is there a powder version of fulvic acid you recommend?

Mr fulvic gets pretty expensive running a larger grow.
Powdered fulvic acid products don't have the amino and organic acids, which are destroyed in the drying process. Mr. Fulvic is a liquid concentrate to save them.

Let me ask someone who isn't a smooth brain like myself and I'll shoot you a DM.
 

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