I can totally do the last part. Do i need to take a video at the same time? How far do i run the intake along the wall? And where at canopy height out of the light would i hang the probe? I thought that was the point? Is to see what the temps are right above one of the plants?Ahh ok so you may not even need a circulation fan bro the intake fan just run in the bottom feed along the tent wall to make a vortex type flow. Like a toilet bowl.
Place your temp sensor out of the light at canopy height for accurate reading.
Last but most important put on one of those sandles and one of the slippers. Then take a huge bong rip close your eyes and hold it while hopping in a circle with your eye closed 5 times on the sandle then 5 on the slipper... exhale and that should fix it
Run it just inside pointed along the wall.. it will naturally create a cyclone type flow when the tent is closed.. think of water flow to help you visualize it.I can totally do the last part. Do i need to take a video at the same time? How far do i run the intake along the wall? And where at canopy height out of the light would i hang the probe? I thought that was the point? Is to see what the temps are right above one of the plants?
Do i need the flaps open still if i am creating that cyclone? Having them open will break that up won't it?Run it just inside pointed along the wall.. it will naturally create a cyclone type flow when the tent is closed.. think of water flow to help you visualize it.
Hang the sensor at canopy height or just a touch below. Lights (especially with IR can falsely inflate the temperature as IR rays will be absorbed as heat) could simply take a square piece of cardboard or reflective tape with the backing still on so I doesn't stick and cut a slot so you can just slide it over the wire to block the light. I'm betting you see a difference. Proper use of sensors is absolutely key to accurate readings. That's why you IR temp gun is needed the leaves will absorb IR and under HID sometimes leaf temps are higher than air temps (NOT ideal) because of the amount of IR and radiant heat.
Then evaporative cooling from transpiration and wind will lower those temps so every grow space is different and that's why only leaf temps matter.
I slid a temp sensor inside a piece of cardboard.Run it just inside pointed along the wall.. it will naturally create a cyclone type flow when the tent is closed.. think of water flow to help you visualize it.
Hang the sensor at canopy height or just a touch below. Lights (especially with IR can falsely inflate the temperature as IR rays will be absorbed as heat) could simply take a square piece of cardboard or reflective tape with the backing still on so I doesn't stick and cut a slot so you can just slide it over the wire to block the light. I'm betting you see a difference. Proper use of sensors is absolutely key to accurate readings. That's why you IR temp gun is needed the leaves will absorb IR and under HID sometimes leaf temps are higher than air temps (NOT ideal) because of the amount of IR and radiant heat.
Then evaporative cooling from transpiration and wind will lower those temps so every grow space is different and that's why only leaf temps matter.
No not if you have forced intake. If passive you want them open. Forced close them.Do i need the flaps open still if i am creating that cyclone? Having them open will break that up won't it?
Reading change?I slid a temp sensor inside a piece of cardboard.
Lights come back on at 10. But good thing is both temp sensors are the sameReading change?
Thank you @Aqua Man I appreciate that. @DazedNconfused78 Can you post a pic of or link to the spec sheet for your light. Lets get you some real answersThis one's for @DreamwalkerJ
Both. Plants love the circulating air. The oscillating fan should be on always but your intake/exhaust should only fire up for temp changes/maintenanceOk. Ill do it. If it helps me figure this thing out. I should have my oscillating fan going right? Or just my intake and exhaust?
Thank you @Aqua Man I appreciate that. @DazedNconfused78 Can you post a pic of or link to the spec sheet for your light. Lets get you some real answers
When lights come back on i will turn it on. I am going to try to create a tornado effect. Hopefully i can see maybe little bits of plant material directly in the center.Both. Plants love the circulating air. The oscillating fan should be on always but your intake/exhaust should only fire up for temp changes/maintenance
Yes a weednado. Love it. Love everything about it.When lights come back on i will turn it on. I am going to try to create a tornado effect. Hopefully i can see maybe little bits of plant material directly in the center.
Wow! That's cool. But is it good? Lol. Looks like Chinese to me.I worked my magic and here are the PAR maps for your light in a 4x4 at 12" and then at 24" and then at 36"View attachment 1126317View attachment 1126319View attachment 1126321
Yes a weednado. Love it. Love everything about itWhen lights come back on i will turn it on. I am going to try to create a tornado effect. Hopefully i can see maybe little bits of plant material directly in the center.
Its good. Its from the manufacturer through an independent testing facilityWow! That's cool. But is it good? Lol. Looks like Chinese to me.
I found all those but not the par maps... good job.Yes a weednado. Love it. Love everything about it
Its good. Its from the manufacturer through an independent testing facility
So on the 36 inch height. If i have it at 100% the PAR in the middle is 701? What is best for veg? Like 400? If so i would decrease it to about 60%? Am i on track here?I worked my magic and here are the PAR maps for your light in a 4x4 at 12" and then at 24" and then at 36"View attachment 1126317View attachment 1126319View attachment 1126321
Wait isnt that what i grabbed? Let me look again. Did i dun fuck up?I found all those but not the par maps... good job.
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