That would be sweet! Moose knuckles!Leave those cracked branches alone for 24 hours and if they are still healthy with rigid petioles (leaf stems) then leave them be, or brace them if you like. But if after 24 hours (or any time before then) the leaves are droopy, and the branch has an overall unhealthy look about it, snip that branch off just below the break. Do it as soon as you notice because from then on the plant will be wasting precious energy trying to heal something it cant. . Who knows, you might end up with super-cropped branches with monster knuckles on them where they were broken
I checked the plants. No wilted looking branches yet.Leave those cracked branches alone for 24 hours and if they are still healthy with rigid petioles (leaf stems) then leave them be, or brace them if you like. But if after 24 hours (or any time before then) the leaves are droopy, and the branch has an overall unhealthy look about it, snip that branch off just below the break. Do it as soon as you notice because from then on the plant will be wasting precious energy trying to heal something it cant. . Who knows, you might end up with super-cropped branches with monster knuckles on them where they were broken
Youre mostly right. You will still want to change the res to prevent imbalances and salt buildups, as well as keeping the system clean and free of undesirables. I change the res AFTER each transition point. Ill just explain what i do to keep it simple......... i have a 55 gallon res with 50 gallons of nutrients. I start with a mild veg mix in the res for when clones are transplanted. Once the clones are rooted and grown enough to need more food (2 weeks) i i start topping up my res with full veg nutes until i have added a total of 50 gallons of "top-ups" of full veg nutes THEN i dump the res and refill with full veg nutes. Understand? Doing it thisbway eliminates any strain on the plant and it follows the changes in the plants nutrient requirements in a much smoother way.So we feed all the nutes in the beginning of the plants life and if we don't want to change the res we transition from all the nutes in seedling to gro and then to bloom? But always using micro and cal-mag?
Ok. I think i get how you change them. But, So are you only using 1 nutrient at a time? With the micro and cal-mag every time?Youre mostly right. You will still want to change the res to prevent imbalances and salt buildups, as well as keeping the system clean and free of undesirables. I change the res AFTER each transition point. Ill just explain what i do to keep it simple......... i have a 55 gallon res with 50 gallons of nutrients. I start with a mild veg mix in the res for when clones are transplanted. Once the clones are rooted and grown enough to need more food (2 weeks) i i start topping up my res with full veg nutes until i have added a total of 50 gallons of "top-ups" of full veg nutes THEN i dump the res and refill with full veg nutes. Understand? Doing it thisbway eliminates any strain on the plant and it follows the changes in the plants nutrient requirements in a much smoother way.
Then as soon as i switch to 12/12 i do the same thing but with bloom nutes and i start using bloom nutes to top up my res until ive added 50 gallons of top ups and the dump the res and refill with bloom nutes. Do the same thing with late bloom/ripening and then the the last 2 weeks before harvest i top up the res with plain RO water and it gradually lowers the ppm until its 0ppm for the last 3 days before harvest. There you go, burns snow white ashes (after a nice cure) and you dont suffer a massive loss in yield due to starving the plant for the last 2 weeks, which are 2 of the (if not THE) most important weeks for the development of the cannabinoid and terpene profiles. . But hey, thats just what i think.
2 things i go for when defoliating. 1 is to remove any fan leaves that are blocking nodes. If a fan leaf is blocking a bud site from light, i cut it. 2 when it comes to the bottoms of the plant, use your best judgement. If it looks like it wont grow into a decent nug then decide: do i want the plant to use energy on this because im pressing rosin anyways, or, do i want the plant to stop wasting energy on something i wont want to put into a bag and instead focus on THE NUGGETS!...That would be sweet! Moose knuckles!
I know it might be hard to do. But what else can i trim on my plants? All the lower stuff? And fan leaves that don't get light? Any way to circle some on the pic?
No. My new clone veg resOk. I think i get how you change them. But, So are you only using 1 nutrient at a time? With the micro and cal-mag every time?
Ok. Thats perfect. My res is 50. But i can get about 55 in it. So i could mix it exactly you just sent it. Do i need to use the armor si? And the other extra stuff? Or just the normal nutes? I guess there is a better reaction when i use all of them together. But also i guess it is a persons preference. Correct?No. My new clone veg res
1.5 ml armor si
2. 5ml calmag
3.5 mls micro
5 mls gro
1.5 mls bloom
2 mls rapidstart
1 ml floralicious plus
At week 2 start topping up with the full veg res until youve topped up an equal amount to your res size then change res with fresh full veg nutes. (Full veg below)
Full veg res
2.5 mls armor si
5 mls calmag
5 mls micro
2.5 mls bloom
2 mls rapidstart
1 ml floralicious plus
And then i do the same thing with bloom nutes.
So if you go by the general hydroponics feed chart, for example, you do the exact same thing i described above except you do it according to their chart. Fill res with early veg and top up with ful veg. Change res with full veg - flip to 12/12 -top up with bloom nutes, change res with bloom nutes and top up with mid bloom nutes. Change res with mid bloom nutes and top up with late bloom/ripen nutes then start topping up with plain RO water for last 2 weeks and then feed 0 ppm for last 3 days.No. My new clone veg res
1.5 ml armor si
2. 5ml calmag
3.5 mls micro
5 mls gro
1.5 mls bloom
2 mls rapidstart
1 ml floralicious plus
At week 2 start topping up with the full veg res until youve topped up an equal amount to your res size then change res with fresh full veg nutes. (Full veg below)
Full veg res
2.5 mls armor si
5 mls calmag
5 mls micro
2.5 mls bloom
2 mls rapidstart
1 ml floralicious plus
And then i do the same thing with bloom nutes.
I am only using tap water. Is that gonna be bad?So if you go by the general hydroponics feed chart, for example, you do the exact same thing i described above except you do it according to their chart. Fill res with early veg and top up with ful veg. Change res with full veg - flip to 12/12 -top up with bloom nutes, change res with bloom nutes and top up with mid bloom nutes. Change res with mid bloom nutes and top up with late bloom/ripen nutes then start topping up with plain RO water for last 2 weeks and then feed 0 ppm for last 3 days.
The truth is no you dont need the other stuff. I would very strongly suggest you get floralicious plus but the other stuff no you do not NEED you can still grow amazing weed without the other stuff, ive just personally found they make enough of a differnce to me to justify using them. If you dont use the floralicious though you may need to make adjustments as i had to LOWER my ppm by 40% when i started adding floralicious plus. But in all honesty man, some calmag, micro, grow, and bloom is all you really need. Its also best to keep things simple until you have a good unerstanding of things (i mean no offence) if you only use those 4, the calmag,micro, grow, bloom then i would suggest you go by the gen hydro feed chart. Use the 3 part chart and just add 5 mls per gallon of calmag to it firstOk. Thats perfect. My res is 50. But i can get about 55 in it. So i could mix it exactly you just sent it. Do i need to use the armor si? And the other extra stuff? Or just the normal nutes? I guess there is a better reaction when i use all of them together. But also i guess it is a persons preference. Correct?
Top up with nutes. My veg res gets filled with 550 ppm. Every time i top up the res i top it up with 1 - 2 gallons of 550ppm nutes. Then when its time to switch to bloom i start topping up with 750ppm bloom nutes until i change my res and fill it with the 750ppm bloom nutes. Does that explain it better man?Do i add water during the two weeks before topping or not until i start adding nutes? That way i don't mess up the ratio?
No not at all. Obviously RO water makes a difference but with tap water, if comes out of the tap at 300 ppm, just add that to your desired ppm. If the water is 300 ppm and you want your nutrients to be at 700ppm, then your nutrients should be at 1000ppm . So fill the res tap water at 300ppm and add your nutes until it hits 1000ppm. If were talking about the last 2 weeks, then absolutely. It is totally fine to give them tap water for last few days. Quick question, if plants must be flushed with 0ppm for 2 weeks to be considered "good", what about all the outdoor? You know, since there will always be organics, bacteria, microbes, metals, minerals in soil, in the earth, it cant be "flushed" fully so.....? (Its not about feeding 0ppm for 2 weeks, its all about not giving the plant more than it can eat)I am only using tap water. Is that gonna be bad?
Totally explains it better and here is another picTop up with nutes. My veg res gets filled with 550 ppm. Every time i top up the res i top it up with 1 - 2 gallons of 550ppm nutes. Then when its time to switch to bloom i start topping up with 750ppm bloom nutes until i change my res and fill it with the 750ppm bloom nutes. Does that explain it better man?
My tap water is at only about 150 ppmNo not at all. Obviously RO water makes a difference but with tap water, if comes out of the tap at 300 ppm, just add that to your desired ppm. If the water is 300 ppm and you want your nutrients to be at 700ppm, then your nutrients should be at 1000ppm . So fill the res tap water at 300ppm and add your nutes until it hits 1000ppm. If were talking about the last 2 weeks, then absolutely. It is totally fine to give them tap water for last few days. Quick question, if plants must be flushed with 0ppm for 2 weeks to be considered "good", what about all the outdoor? You know, since there will always be organics, bacteria, microbes, metals, minerals in soil, in the earth, it cant be "flushed" fully so.....? (Its not about feeding 0ppm for 2 weeks, its all about not giving the plant more than it can eat)
So many nutrients are immobile, like calcium becomes a part of the cell walls, no amount of flushing will ever get that out. Its all about EXCESS. The problem is feeding the plant more than it needs and a build up occurs and the people that claim flushing works is because theb2 weeks of plain water allows the plant to eat all the extra food youve been giving it that it has stored in the leaves. To anyone that wants to debate this, i ask that you jut try it my way once. Feed less through flower only feed them what they need and then gradually taper down for the last 2 weeks. Plain water for last 3 days just in case there is any food left behind. If you do that, dry and cure properly and still have an issue, i dont know what to say. Sorry about that guys, i just see this debated all the time here and it gets tiring. The problem with this industry is that so much of our information came from word-of-mouth, 2nd hand info, bro-science, and grower stories. Not a lot of science made public until recently because most of this industry operated clandestinely and couldnt exactly verify our findings in a lab. Now that we can i think its important to move past old ideas and remove stigmas about the whole subject in general. Ok sorry you guys had to put up with that but i had to say it
My tap water is at only about 150 ppm
They look great man you did a good job. Just remember, when your looking down on the canopy, anywhere you can see the table is light being wasted where a leaf could be. The 2 main goals of defoliating are to give the bud sites directs light and to allow good airflow through the plants. Yours look good though, they will probably bush back up again in time for another defoliation in as you switch to bloom. Looking good budAnother view
Totally explains it better and here is another pic
I dont know what youre worried about bro, it looks good to me.. those are good numbers. Especially for going into bloom. Once you give that light the 30%in bloom that will raise temps a few degrees and then leaft temps will be at a beautiful 72° for bloom. Happy@DreamwalkerJ The leaf temp thing is killing me. They are at 68° and the tent is about 76-77. I don't get it. My light is at 70%. They like the environment. But i bet they would like it even more if leaf temps are closer. Idk
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