Beneficials with advanced nutes???????????

  • Thread starter ogtealover420
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ogtealover420

ogtealover420

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Ok so i hear not to use synthetic ferts on my organic garden right? The idea is that the salts or whatever kills the beneies right? So how does AN sell products like voodoo and pirahana and what have you for hydro???? Also I like to add some BigBud on certain plants that I grow organically is this a waste of cash?
 
D

Donk Frog

Guest
I use voodoo in hydro, just feed organics, I filter my iguana juice and mother earth through a cheese cloth filter, then feed to my hydro system, no dripper clogs.....
 
Blaze

Blaze

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Beneficial organisms are more resistant to chemicals than a lot of people claim. In fact, many feed off of salts. I have seen people use teas in conjunction with chemical based ferts with great success. The trick is finding the right balance, which requires a lot of testing.
 
ogtealover420

ogtealover420

150
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Blaze said:
Beneficial organisms are more resistant to chemicals than a lot of people claim. In fact, many feed off of salts. I have seen people use teas in conjunction with chemical based ferts with great success. The trick is finding the right balance, which requires a lot of testing.
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I agree as i use AN big bud in conjunction with my teas and i can still see the leaf tip burn if I want to and I am sure my organics are still running at full power as the nitrogen is available and the fruity sweet scents and flavors are still highly notable from the guanos...However if there is salt build up i think it would very likely cause beneies' to die or function improperly so i go like 1/8 strength and only once and a while for a boost.:cool0041:
 
B

BBC

11
0
I asked AN's tech department about this concern awhile back. Piranha and Tarantula are safe to use with chemical ferts and will help with salt buildup. Just don't use peroxide to oxygenate your water if you are running beneficials, that will kill them.
 
M

MJPassion

52
6
I dont use AN and will not use em because they contain a lot of chemical chelates that are VERY toxic to the environment once discarded.

But hey... AN sells the benes for use with their nutes... So it must be OK.

Also I like to add some BigBud on certain plants that I grow organically is this a waste of cash?
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IMO, YES... it's a waste of cash. But I'm all organic too.

If I were to go to synth I'd def spend the money on AN or Canna products since they do testing with our favorite plants. ;)
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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So, OP, you can see how AN sells these products, yes? Oy. And then I found out Kushie Kush is not a band.

I'm cheap, so far the most I've kicked down for is some Big Bud, but I did it too late to try on this last run. Will try it on the next.
Blaze said:
Beneficial organisms are more resistant to chemicals than a lot of people claim. In fact, many feed off of salts. I have seen people use teas in conjunction with chemical based ferts with great success. The trick is finding the right balance, which requires a lot of testing.
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Along with that it really helps to use certain compounds that aid their action; i.e. fulvic & humic acids. That said, if you do use those you'll probably need to adjust your feeding recipe as they affect bio-availability of given nutrients.
 
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happyinmendo

Guest
I have been using teas over the last outdoor season. I can personally tell you from a limited trial run indoors on mother plants and outdoors that you can take 20% strength synthetic fertilizer and use it with myco/bacteria teas. This is true for ag grade salts such as grow more, General Hydroponics, etc. I have also added in botanicare calmag as needed for foliar sprays when I ran out of the organic line and it had no ill side effects.

I have read 400ppm is the threshold where your salinity starts getting too high for the live beneficial fungus and bacterias to survive without dehydrating however I have found from experience through sap samples that 20% strength synthetics and full strength organic liquids, like biolink or meta naturals work really well.
 
H

happyinmendo

Guest
AN also sells organics, so that may have been what it was geared towards then they realized it will work either way and they marketed it that way. It doesn't pay well to tell people they can use less and it works the same. It does pay well to add something in that is initially killed off before it can do anything and still sell you full strength schedule. lol... good marketing on that company, eh?

All I care about is neked strippers getting air brushed at the hydro convention in vancouver... if they do that it must be the best fertilizer, lol...
 
H

happyinmendo

Guest
This is also true of seamaidens comments. You need to add in something for them to feed on, as well as seaweed/ kelp additives, and fulvic acid. This is a synergistic concoction for the teas to really shine and replenish plants quickly... and I mean quickly... like 3 hours!
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
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You were doing the actively aerated teas, yes?

I have another tip for humic/fulvic users--either don't buy the micronized powders like Micro-Hume (when I'm ready for more I'm getting Humex liquid), or if you do get something like SM-90 to mix it with FIRST. Otherwise you're going to spend the rest of your life trying to get this hydrophobic compound to mix with the very thing it hates.
 
H

happyinmendo

Guest
aren't micronized powders the ones you use in foliage sprays as they are more pulverized and screened for easier solubility?

Yes, I take the products and leave them in a tank overnight, make then around 6pm, use sometime in the morning... ish, lol...

This year I'm going to tie in tanks inline with my irrigation lines possibly, I haven't decided yet. The lines use a lot more water so I haven't fully committed yet. They would be able to gravity feed but I'd have to use about 3x the amount of water each time. I'm trying to decide which is cheaper, paying someone to do it or setting it up this way.
 
H

happyinmendo

Guest
I use a product called Humega. Its about 77ml per gallon and it seems to work great.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

Living dead girl
23,596
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happyinmendo said:
aren't micronized powders the ones you use in foliage sprays as they are more pulverized and screened for easier solubility?
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Suitable for foliar and fertigation, HIM. What they don't tell you is that getting this stuff into suspension is a task if you don't use something that relieves its hydrophobic behavior.
happyinmendo said:
Yes, I take the products and leave them in a tank overnight, make then around 6pm, use sometime in the morning... ish, lol...
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What I haven't been able to get away with is mixing up nutes like this, say, a week or two in advance and have them keep well.
happyinmendo said:
This year I'm going to tie in tanks inline with my irrigation lines possibly, I haven't decided yet. The lines use a lot more water so I haven't fully committed yet. They would be able to gravity feed but I'd have to use about 3x the amount of water each time. I'm trying to decide which is cheaper, paying someone to do it or setting it up this way.
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Fertigation has got to be a huge time saver. Hell, drippers are a huge time saver! Back, too. But you can't put anything chunky through them.

I believe the hydrolized fish emulsion is also foliar/fert appropriate. Stuff smells like a really old fish tank to me.
 
H

happyinmendo

Guest
Just add soap. Bronners, anything not antibacterial. There is a product that they sell at groworganic.com called Thermx 70 I believe. Its decent. I have used that, all kinds of basic soaps. I pretty commonly add soap to my tanks when its really dry/hot in the summer. It helps get the areas that are becoming overly dry absorb moisture instead of resisting.



In my opinion there are better sticker spreaders than themx 70... but it is organic, its terribly expensive. Dr. Bronners soap is probably cheaper.
 
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