Greenthumb...you were the first person that I ever heard say spinosad, so I had to look it up to double check. Great find! I never even knew it could be used for this.
If I ever get them again I will hit them with spinosad (which I use for thrips when I bring outdoor plants in) and then with the floramite about 3 or 4 days later to clean up any eggs.

This is from the Monterey Garden Insect info packet...Apply when spider mites are first observed prior to webbing and before mite populations have become severe. Reapply after 7-10 days (3-5 days in greenhouses and structures that can be closed) to contact newly hatched nymphs and repeat until infestation is managed. Uniform application of both upper and lower leaf surfaces is critical.

seems like another tool to be used to fight the borg!

DazedNconfussed said:

I am on day 3 with 8 no pest strips, and have the strips set on my scrog screen between plants....zero improvement so far.....i am a few weeks into flower....any suggestions on whats best to use early in flower and costs under $100....and available in Cali....

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Damn, sorry to hear that!!! Did you seal off your room? Sorry I said to use them. It got rid of mine in less then 48 hrs.

Question on the no-pest strips: How do they work? Do they ATTRACT & kill the mites or does it release poison gas to the air? Not only wondering about the health concerns attached, but also placement strategy. For example, if you had a long hallway b/w your room and outdoors (potential entry path for mites, would you want to place one at the far end the hallway (next to the entry point), so that they would be attracted away from your room (and hopefully never make it there)?

cain23456 said:

Damn, sorry to hear that!!! Did you seal off your room? Sorry I said to use them. It got rid of mine in less then 48 hrs.

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when you say seal your room, you mean no ventilation for 48 hours? i couldnt pull that off, temps and humidity would be off the charts.

Darth Fader said:

Question on the no-pest strips: How do they work? Do they ATTRACT & kill the mites or does it release poison gas to the air? Not only wondering about the health concerns attached, but also placement strategy. For example, if you had a long hallway b/w your room and outdoors (potential entry path for mites, would you want to place one at the far end the hallway (next to the entry point), so that they would be attracted away from your room (and hopefully never make it there)?

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they do not attract insects, its like an air freshener design filled with poison.

zero tolerance worked for me along with cleaning after harvest...

motherlode said:

when you say seal your room, you mean no ventilation for 48 hours? i couldnt pull that off, temps and humidity would be off the charts.




they do not attract insects, its like an air freshener design filled with poison.

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Sorry I didn't add that in. You have to seal off ya room. I turned off my lights for 2 days. I had no other choice, mites were bad.

didnt read anything here but the subject line. FloramiteSC hands down i tried them all and it's the only thing that worked.

fyi you can get a 1 oz bottle on ebay for $20 that will make like 24 usable gallons

cain23456 said:

Damn, sorry to hear that!!! Did you seal off your room? Sorry I said to use them. It got rid of mine in less then 48 hrs.

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lady bugs its not a bad idea. usually your suppose to introduce them early cause it takes a minute for them to start going to work. but if your a few weeds into flowering then your not gonna be able to use much of anything cemical. take the no pest strips out if you decide to go lady bugs at this point organic is the way to go.

Xceptional said:

didnt read anything here but the subject line. FloramiteSC hands down i tried them all and it's the only thing that worked.

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I've tried floramite and it didn't work. I sprayed for 9 day every 3 day and I was thurow. Didn't help at all. Cost me about 60 for nothin.

budbrothers said:

I've tried floramite and it didn't work. I sprayed for 9 day every 3 day and I was thurow. Didn't help at all. Cost me about 60 for nothin.

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sometimes mites are very resistant to pesticides, its why some people choose to use 2-3 products alternating them.

with mites you should always manually remove as much of them and their webs as you can.

if you let them go til webs are prominent you are gonna have a hard time regardless what you use

azamax or hot pepper wax or organic soap or trash can

budbrothers said:

I've tried floramite and it didn't work. I sprayed for 9 day every 3 day and I was thurow. Didn't help at all. Cost me about 60 for nothin.

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Don't know where you got it for $60 but you may have gotten a bad/old sample. To combat resistances, I use Forbid and Azamax in rotation with Floramite. There's a guy on ebay that I get both Forbid and Floramite from in small quantities, never failed; i think his name is "drbudman" or something like that.

saltr said:

Don't know where you got it for $60 but you may have gotten a bad/old sample. To combat resistances, I use Forbid and Azamax in rotation with Floramite. There's a guy on ebay that I get both Forbid and Floramite from in small quantities, never failed; i think his name is "drbudman" or something like that.

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sorry i should have clarified. i had to buy 3 little bottles at 20 bucks each i used 2 and a bout a half and it didnt do shit. i had about 200 medium plants to spray and i had to do a full coverage 3 times. so it was almost like a bottle each time.

i just put all of the plants into a home mad green house and the spiders and ladybugs from nature took care of the little fuckers.


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mite-rid

Mite Rid is a one time application. Check the link, and for more info, call The Grow Store at; 231-421-5191 or any of their locations in Colorado. FINALLY, something that really works on these bastards.



Coxie

SNS-217 worked for me. floramite usually always does the job, but guess I got the a dose of the borg. First time I ever seen floramite not kill the mites. L

This stuff is made with rosemary oil. Little bit pricey if you got alot of plants to spray.

Nice to not have to be worried about residual pesticides.


Since it was mentioned to rotate products.
A warning: Do not foliar any oils after using pyrethrum. The oils trap the pyrethrum on the leaves and then fry em to a crisp. Need to give at least a week after using pyrethrum.

SNS-217™ Spider Mite Control is made up of 100% pure Rosemary botanical extracts. The botanicals are all food grade GRAS (generally recognized as safe) materials.
SNS-217™ Spider Mite Control
is exempt from EPA registration under minimum risk pesticides exempted under FIFRA section 25(b).

How It Works
Spider mites destroy plant cells by sucking out their contents and SNS-217™'s unique formula works by providing a barrier which is harmless to the plant, but fatal to the mites.
The natural salts from fatty acids derived from Rosemary extracts disrupt the insect cell structure and permeability of its membranes. Cell contents then leak from damaged cells and the spider mites quickly die
Some of the components of SNS-217™ are also absorbed by the plant and then suppress the life cycle of the mites.
SNS-217™ Spider Mite Control kills the spider mite eggs as well by coating the eggs with a oily shield that disrupts the respiration to the egg; therefore no hatching will occur, they will just dry out.
Our Product has been tested in our lab on delicate new growth, clones, tomatoes, roses and other plants.

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leadsled said:

SNS-217 worked for me. floramite usually always does the job, but guess I got the a dose of the borg. First time I ever seen floramite not kill the mites. L

This stuff is made with rosemary oil. Little bit pricey if you got alot of plants to spray.

Nice to not have to be worried about residual pesticides.


Since it was mentioned to rotate products.
A warning: Do not foliar any oils after using pyrethrum. The oils trap the pyrethrum on the leaves and then fry em to a crisp. Need to give at least a week after using pyrethrum.

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that explains why my plants got jacked. i was wondering what happened cause i pyrethrumed them and then a light dose of neem and shit hit the fan. thanks for the Tip. very helpful... i just wish i would have come across this thread before. lol o well. thanks again

leadsled said:

A warning: Do not foliar any oils after using pyrethrum. The oils trap the pyrethrum on the leaves and then fry em to a crisp. Need to give at least a week after using pyrethrum.

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Which pyrethrum product has that on the label or where do you hear that? Does it contain piperonyl butoxide?:drink I have used Pyganic an organic pyrethrum spray and even mix it with neem oil and not had any issues with burning leaves. Not doubting you bro, just curious. :character0050:

CanadianClassic said:

Wondering what are the "BEST" methods people use for dealing with the evil little bastards? Something that kills them good and keeps them gone..Thanks

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Holaz fellow farmers! First off I want to say there are different kinds of mites. Some mites have more immunity than others and there are even inter-species differences in they're resistances. Which further complicates the issues of dealing with them. What might work on one mite might not work on another :surprised..... and to even complicate maters worse if you piss them off and don't kill them they will hibernate. I have a friend that couldn't get rid of his mites till he tore out his old wood floor and replace it with linoleum. How long were they hiding down there 6 months, a year?

Avid, floramite, judo, etc. are pretty toxic chemicals. IMHO, toxic chemicals are like fast-food. Only good as a last resort. If you can spray every other or every third day you should be O.K. with this organic recipe even with your arnold schwarzenegger mites.

The bombs are gone,,, temporarily... Pulled for reformulation. The Pyrethrum-TR was to strong, I don't know why the the rest including the doktor doom and the other Prescription Treatment products like Attain-TR were pulled. I guess they couldn't sell them in a bunch of states most being medi; can't mess with the medi states :wink:

I'm going to give you my mite destruction recipe, I'm not sure everyone will luv or be able to get all the products but hey, another option never hurt, huh?

Here is my organic IPM rotation:

day 1: Neem (Trilogy Neem Oil) upto 2 Tbs. Gal

day 3: Pyrethrum (Pyganic) upto 1 Tbs. Gal

day 5: Monterey Garden Insect Spray (Spinosad) upto 4 Tbs. Gal

day 7: Troy BioSciences Naturalis-L (Beauveria Bassiana) upto 2 Tsp. Gal

back to day one.

You can mix a wetting agent with any of these (my favorite is ThermX 70 an all natural yucca extract) I really like mixing neem and thermX. In fact neem can be mixed with the Pyganic or Nutralis-L with devastating effects. :fighting0003:

When you were spraying, you had to of missed a spot? Welp that's when Stirrup-M comes in (another Troy BioScience product) it's a mite pheromone. This will bring the little borgs to your spray and kill them.:punch

Also get a good sprayer. Sure the little homedepot sprayer is just fine for the little girls in the veg room. But were talking about trees here and your going to want to hit every part of the plant that is huge. A great inexpensive sprayer to start with is a sump pump 5 gallon bucket and .5 gal per minute fogg-it nozzle (the green one) less than $100. For less then $300 you can get a great atomizer from NGW. on the high-end Dramm has a backpack sprayer for a little less than $500 and Hey this might seem like a lot but were talking about the borg here and some of the sprays might cost you over a hundred. Wouldn't want to wast any.

greenthumb said:

Look for anything with a high percentage of SPINOSAD its a natural poison made from plants!.
I used it for mites and thrips and after 3-4 sprayings they were all gone!.
Its easy to find just look on ebay for spinosad. plus its pretty cheap too.

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Spinosad is great stuff. Anything that's from an abandoned rum distillery on a Caribbean Island is the shit in my book.