Bho honey oil or sap or syrup

Ianpemb · Apr 20, 2020

Hi everyone, my name is Ian and I am from Ontario Canada. I recently purchased a passive closed loop extractor in the hopes of making that gooey honey oil that I remember from years ago. I have heard it called sap or syrup. I am looking for a thick viscous oil that I can put in a vial and spread onto a paper and roll a joint. My question is really about purging temps for different products as well as the oil I am looking for. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers!

JadedMarxist · Apr 20, 2020

If you want a darker honey oil that viscous but not Runny use little more heat than what you'd use when making shatter.

I'll lokk ip the actual temp I think it's right around 90C for shatter with full vac but I could be wrong as I just play it by ear. (No digital temp control) min vac time of at least 24 or as much as you can afford the longer the better Imo.

Old school way would just use a large over safe glass dish and heat and time.. Will purge it also no matter what anyone says. But more heat more colour, and also at the expense of terps or the risk of losing terps.

JadedMarxist · Apr 20, 2020

Also fresher staring material will usually not always but usually clearer lighter coloured concentrate. Freeze all equipment before extraction to extract less of the plant waxes (bad for lung health). Freeze the material the set up extracted I can't say read owner manual but freeze the butane also. The longer the butane is in can't act with the flower the more undesirables you extract.

Colour and clarity also sometimes strain dependant.

You could dalso decarb it first so it doesn't harden up. Also if you like it messy don't winterize after

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

JadedMarxist said:
If you want a darker honey oil that viscous but not Runny use little more heat than what you'd use when making shatter.

I'll lokk ip the actual temp I think it's right around 90C for shatter with full vac but I could be wrong as I just play it by ear. (No digital temp control) min vac time of at least 24 or as much as you can afford the longer the better Imo.

Old school way would just use a large over safe glass dish and heat and time.. Will purge it also no matter what anyone says. But more heat more colour, and also at the expense of terps or the risk of losing terps.

Hi thanks for replying...where would I look up temps?

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

JadedMarxist said:
Also fresher staring material will usually not always but usually clearer lighter coloured concentrate. Freeze all equipment before extraction to extract less of the plant waxes (bad for lung health). Freeze the material the set up extracted I can't say read owner manual but freeze the butane also. The longer the butane is in can't act with the flower the more undesirables you extract.

Colour and clarity also sometimes strain dependant.

You could dalso decarb it first so it doesn't harden up. Also if you like it messy don't winterize after

Hi and thanks. I do freeze everything. I guess from what I know if you want shatter then no more heat than 90deg f for purging...budder 120f. I guess I’m trying to see if there is a temp that would produce a viscous liquid but not turn into a solid. Also from everything that I have read the extraction process is the same for all extracts but finishing or purging at different temps produce different products. Is this correct? I guess messy isn’t the right word. It is a thick liquid that doesn’t really move at all in the vial unless left on its side for a long time then eventually it will flow but it takes a while at room temps. i normally just get some on a pin or a needle and put in on a paper then warm the needle to spread it.

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

What is everyone’s view on grinding or not grinding. If I grind how fine would you suggest? The reason I am asking is I was told I have a 45 gram material column but I did not grind and I was only able to put in 26 grams into the tube.

Madbud · Apr 21, 2020

Ianpemb said:
Hi and thanks. I do freeze everything. I guess from what I know if you want shatter then no more heat than 90deg f for purging...budder 120f. I guess I’m trying to see if there is a temp that would produce a viscous liquid but not turn into a solid. Also from everything that I have read the extraction process is the same for all extracts but finishing or purging at different temps produce different products. Is this correct? I guess messy isn’t the right word. It is a thick liquid that doesn’t really move at all in the vial unless left on its side for a long time then eventually it will flow but it takes a while at room temps. i normally just get some on a pin or a needle and put in on a paper then warm the needle to spread it.

I use a dart, if its heated first it dabs any viscosity. I don’t grind, just break the buds up to get the trichs inside. Seems the finer the grind the more chlorophyll you get. Jmo

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

Madbud said:
I use a dart, if its heated first it dabs any viscosity. I don’t grind, just break the buds up to get the trichs inside. Seems the finer the grind the more chlorophyll you get. Jmo

Thanks I’ll try breaking them up a bit more next go round

Madbud · Apr 21, 2020

Another thing, vials were last century. A smoke shop or head shop carries silicone containers that oil won’t stick to.

JadedMarxist · Apr 21, 2020

I just break mine up by hand or shot glass with scissors

JadedMarxist · Apr 21, 2020

Your temps are right I think I may have said 90C but I meant F. I found that when I get lazy and do iso wash I rarely get it to harden up. But it's a thick Amber oil you can stir it but it dont flow. If you get tha. Here's a pic of what's left of my last iso wash. Thick but not hard spread able still

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

What temp do you purge at?

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

Madbud said:
Another thing, vials were last century. A smoke shop or head shop carries silicone containers that oil won’t stick to.View attachment 964529

That's the oil I'm looking for! What do you do to get that consistency?

Dirtbag · Apr 21, 2020

Ianpemb said:
That's the oil I'm looking for! What do you do to get that consistency?

Take your final product from the extractor and put it into a pyrex bowl that sits on top of a pot, double boiler style. Then boil water in the pot and let the steam heat your extract in the glass bowl. Let it melt and bubble and when the bubbling slows way down it's done.

Mikelej14 · Apr 21, 2020

When i run bho for a fast ectraction without vac* to get that oily texture just need higher heat..
In my experience:
When i make shatter i go to 150 just until it bubbles then lower back down to about 120 until bubbles stop, whole process only takes an hour or so in toaster oven. Using vacuum chamber you can achieve much better at lower temps, but making it that oily goo, just heat it up... Like 180-200f for like 10min and itll stay gooy forever... Decaboxilation happens beyond that like for using in edibles, but part of that process also makes it runnier at room temp so the more heat you apply to an extract the less stable itll become at roomtemp

Madbud · Apr 21, 2020

Ianpemb said:
That's the oil I'm looking for! What do you do to get that consistency?

Butane is at room temp, material is at about 4 or 5°F out of the freezer so the butane remains liquid, it boils off at 41° so anything between 100 and 125° works for me. Vacuum gets the rest at 80-90°.

Ianpemb · Apr 21, 2020

Hey thanks everyone I'm starting to have hope now. What I need is kind of a "for dummies" step by step

Mikelej14 said:
When i run bho for a fast ectraction without vac* to get that oily texture just need higher heat..
In my experience:
When i make shatter i go to 150 just until it bubbles then lower back down to about 120 until bubbles stop, whole process only takes an hour or so in toaster oven. Using vacuum chamber you can achieve much better at lower temps, but making it that oily goo, just heat it up... Like 180-200f for like 10min and itll stay gooy forever... Decaboxilation happens beyond that like for using in edibles, but part of that process also makes it runnier at room temp so the more heat you apply to an extract the less stable itll become at roomtemp

so would it make sense to vacuum purge at a lower temp then when purging is complete to heat up to 180-200? Would that still get me the oil I'm looking for?
So would

Mikelej14 · Apr 21, 2020

Ianpemb said:
Hey thanks everyone I'm starting to have hope now. What I need is kind of a "for dummies" step by step
so would it make sense to vacuum purge at a lower temp then when purging is complete to heat up to 180-200? Would that still get me the oil I'm looking for?
So would

Using vac you can get it at lower temps, when something is in a vacuum it boils off faster. So what takes me 150f+ to do with a toaster oven, a vac can do from 90-120f typically..