as i was searching i found this thread that seemed to be pretty legit. however it was pretty out of date so i wanted to know what people still think about it


ok,
well,
first off,
my purging method starts during the blasting..
while im am blasting into my pyrex, my pyrex is setting on fresh off the stove boiling water.

right after the blast is over, i take it off the water, go inside, whip it up for a couple minutes, scrape it up together, n throw it in my GLASS jar.
now this next part has a lot to do with strain dependency(how long it may take to fully purge out).

sometimes i will wait 6 hours, sometimes ill wait over night, n sometimes ill even start right after my blast because im impatient.
now you will want to get a pot on the stove with about of inch or two of water (enough to have the bottom half of your GLASS jar in the water) and turn the heat on super low.
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.

now while you are watching this, you will start to see bubbles rise to the top and slowly pop. depending on the strain, you could see huge bubbles, or small bubbles. also, while doing this, you might start to see the opacity start to go transparent, which i dont personally like, so i would stick my tool in the concentrate and mix it up a little to bring back its opacity.

now as i said earlier, this whole part is strain dependent when it comes to how long it takes. ive had some strains take only 15 minutes to finish accelerating, then ive had some strains take over a hour.

what you are looking for is for it to ether crater up (when the bubbles stop reforming after they pop), or for it to look like its drying up. depending on the strain, it can turn waxy, or it can turn it to a dried up budder..

another way you can check to see if it is done (or almost done) is by messing with it with your tool..
you will notice that before u start to accelerate your concentrate, it will be very stringy when u dip your tool into it and go to take it out. after you are done accelerating it (or when it is almost done), you will notice that you can dip your tool into it and take out a nice hit, or chunk, with out it stringing out on you. if that makes any sense.

sorry i couldn't compose this better, in a smarter, well written way. but i am very sick right now, so i don't have much patients to fix all this up and do a final draft type thing.
but i have been creating high grade concentrates for the past few years and just perfected this purging method this last year, and found that it works very well.
i hope this literature can help you and any one else in their BHO creations.




here is my problem......
ive made oil about 4-5 times now. 2 times though the oil had buddered into a green color. my process has been - grind up a quarter of fire buds, run a can of vector through it, collect in a glass brownie dish thing. then i put it over boiling water until the oil isnt runny. this takes about 3-6 minuites. then i scrape it up and put it on the parchment paper, and put it in my vacuum purge. then i put the glass jar on my xbox because it blows up hot air. then i let it sit until there is no bubbles left, or until it craters/drys up and turns into budder. however, i think it might be that the xbox is getting the oil/budder tooo hot and turning it green? because it was a nice golden wen i put it on the parchment.
anyways, please let me know what yall think. thanks