BHO Process, help please

[Steve Gray]

as i was searching i found this thread that seemed to be pretty legit. however it was pretty out of date so i wanted to know what people still think about it


ok,
well,
first off,
my purging method starts during the blasting..
while im am blasting into my pyrex, my pyrex is setting on fresh off the stove boiling water.

right after the blast is over, i take it off the water, go inside, whip it up for a couple minutes, scrape it up together, n throw it in my GLASS jar.
now this next part has a lot to do with strain dependency(how long it may take to fully purge out).

sometimes i will wait 6 hours, sometimes ill wait over night, n sometimes ill even start right after my blast because im impatient.
now you will want to get a pot on the stove with about of inch or two of water (enough to have the bottom half of your GLASS jar in the water) and turn the heat on super low.
i use a thermometer for this part. i get my water to between 135-142 degrees Fahrenheit and then set my glass jar in the pot.
now this temperature is very important because it is hot enough to get the butane to rise to the top of your concentrate and evaporate out, but not so hot to where you burn your concentrate and turn it an unwanted green color and loose its good taste.

now while you are watching this, you will start to see bubbles rise to the top and slowly pop. depending on the strain, you could see huge bubbles, or small bubbles. also, while doing this, you might start to see the opacity start to go transparent, which i dont personally like, so i would stick my tool in the concentrate and mix it up a little to bring back its opacity.

now as i said earlier, this whole part is strain dependent when it comes to how long it takes. ive had some strains take only 15 minutes to finish accelerating, then ive had some strains take over a hour.

what you are looking for is for it to ether crater up (when the bubbles stop reforming after they pop), or for it to look like its drying up. depending on the strain, it can turn waxy, or it can turn it to a dried up budder..

another way you can check to see if it is done (or almost done) is by messing with it with your tool..
you will notice that before u start to accelerate your concentrate, it will be very stringy when u dip your tool into it and go to take it out. after you are done accelerating it (or when it is almost done), you will notice that you can dip your tool into it and take out a nice hit, or chunk, with out it stringing out on you. if that makes any sense.

sorry i couldn't compose this better, in a smarter, well written way. but i am very sick right now, so i don't have much patients to fix all this up and do a final draft type thing.
but i have been creating high grade concentrates for the past few years and just perfected this purging method this last year, and found that it works very well.
i hope this literature can help you and any one else in their BHO creations.




here is my problem......
ive made oil about 4-5 times now. 2 times though the oil had buddered into a green color. my process has been - grind up a quarter of fire buds, run a can of vector through it, collect in a glass brownie dish thing. then i put it over boiling water until the oil isnt runny. this takes about 3-6 minuites. then i scrape it up and put it on the parchment paper, and put it in my vacuum purge. then i put the glass jar on my xbox because it blows up hot air. then i let it sit until there is no bubbles left, or until it craters/drys up and turns into budder. however, i think it might be that the xbox is getting the oil/budder tooo hot and turning it green? because it was a nice golden wen i put it on the parchment.
anyways, please let me know what yall think. thanks

 

[montroller]

it might be green because you are grinding the material first. try running with whole nugs or unground trim. Also you are whipping too early. You should only whip after you are sure the purge is done and you are just starting to accelerate otherwise the butane will get trapped in the air bubbles and it can be very difficult to purge out. I really doubt the air from your Xbox is getting the jar too hot. If it is too hot to hold in your hand tightly then it is too hot for the errls. Lastly, you should only be using about 1/4 - 1/2 can of tane for a 1/4 ounce of buds if your extractor is packed tightly.

 

[Steve Gray]

My extractir is a 6" by 1" wide metal tube with a threaded ends and a pbc end cap on one end to make the butane spray and coffee filters on the open end. So the bud isnt packd tightly really. But ehen you run the butane through it, it pushes the bud to the bottom soni guess its tight there. And wow thats a lot less butane than i thought. And the jar on the dbox, the side that was down is very hot and u cant touch it for about 20 seconds. And what do you mean by be sure the purge is done? When its in the glass box/dish thing the water is still somewhat hot and the oil isnt bubbling even though i know there is still butane in it. Are u saying that i shuld keep purging it on boiling water for lOnger and then vacuum purge it?

 

[Steve Gray]

Ohh and ive always heard that griding the bud up fine get u more oil. Ive never heard of using nugs until recently. What sized nugs?

 

[Steve Gray]

Anyone?

 

[squiggly]

The problem is as was stated above--you should not be grinding the material down.

When you do this and you tightly pack the column--the butane has too much residence time with the contaminants that we don't want (like chlorophyll). Also, by breaking the plant down finely, you are exposing FAR more chlorophyll initially to the solvent than would be present in nugs (where the chlorophyll is mostly inside of leaf matter).

If you grind the bud you WILL get more oil, but it will be dirtier--by the time you clean it up, the yield is going to end up about the same. Also, removing chlorophyll is pretty much impossible without using advanced filtration techniques--as it has a very similar polarity to the target molecule.

 

[Steve Gray]

ahh true makes sense. thanks a lot. also would using 2 coffee filters instead of one make any difference? or using something other than a coffee filter thats betteR?

and yet while griding up the bud gives you more its not as potent? but nugs give you a nicee concentrate

 

[squiggly]

No, a filter will not help--these chemicals are soluble in the butane, they are not solid and cannot be caught by the filter per se (although they can stain it).

 

[Steve Gray]

do you think that running perhaps too much butane can make it turn green?
because 1 time it turned a nicee yellow budder and one time a very thick yellowbrownish oil

 

[squiggly]

Yes.

 

[Steve Gray]

That mite be the reason why then. I need to pay more attention wen im running it and stop once its comin out clear

 

[squiggly]

Run nugs dude, we promise--grinding is generally bad for a clear oil.

 

[Steve Gray]

i definitely will. i was just readin about it. the huge nugs i just take off the stem. since i have a vacuum jar, how can i differentiate between bho and budder? does it have anything to do with along these lines?

BHO- aftr most of butane is out, scrape it all up and put on parchment paper. then heat it up a lil bit and throw in in a vacuum purge for about 5-10 min. repeat process as many times as needed.

budder- aftr most butane is out scrape it up and put on parchment paper. then throw it in the vacuum purge until it starts to crater

 

[montroller]

The best way is to vac until all bubbles pop under full vac. You will probably have to heat it multiple times to do this but I try to never go over 120. After you can whip and play with it in vac and generally fuck around with it without heat to get it to be whatever consistency you want. But some strains are just going to do what they do no matter what.

 

[squiggly]

budder is whipped while purging, generally.

 

[Graywolf]

Ohh and ive always heard that griding the bud up fine get u more oil. Ive never heard of using nugs until recently. What sized nugs?

Under a quarter inch. For best color, I would break it down to coarse rolling size by hand,

The chlorophyll is leached out through the broken leaf edges, so the more broken margins you have, the more exposure you have.

If you grind, don't use a food processor, because it produces too many fines. We break up by hand or scrub most of our stuff through a 10 mesh screen instead.

 

[squiggly]

Under a quarter inch. For best color, I would break it down to coarse rolling size by hand,

The chlorophyll is leached out through the broken leaf edges, so the more broken margins you have, the more exposure you have.

If you grind, don't use a food processor, because it produces too many fines. We break up by hand or scrub most of our stuff through a 10 mesh screen instead.

Something for you to check out gray:

 

[jump]

I love to read about chlorophyll. Thank you!

Thus a treatment of 15 min. at 120°C with 2400 mg/L phosphoric acid was selected as a practical compromise, which results in 95+ % chlorophyll removal

I do not think the proposed methods simple and acceptable, but I'm always fully shared their opinions that

Ideally the problem would be eliminated by not extracting chlorophyll into the crude oil at all.
However, a major change in the extraction process would be difficult to implement

Not to break epidermis and process fresh juicy stuff, it is not very difficult and much easier than getting rid of the chlorophyll contamination.

 

[squiggly]

Of course--I thought this just a cool thing to look over. Especially when considering that this same process would act to isomerise the THC as well. Sort of a two birds one stone kinda thing.

 

[Steve Gray]

Of course--I thought this just a cool thing to look over. Especially when considering that this same process would act to isomerise the THC as well. Sort of a two birds one stone kinda thing.

what about the butane itself? what do you think of these brands and which is better?
vector
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