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BHO Purging Method

  • Thread starter Thread starter Default 501x
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BHO Purging Method

Default 501x 229 Replies 373,347 Views
Page 6 of 12 · Replies 101–120 of 230

How do you purge?

  • HmK method - 30 mins-1hr in a hot water bath

    Votes: 54 33.1%

  • low heat overnight purge

    Votes: 14 8.6%

  • hot water purge then vacuum purge

    Votes: 67 41.1%

  • other

    Votes: 28 17.2%
  • Total voters
    163
#101
squiggly said:
I'm a chemist, I'd stay away from anything but HDPE or PTFE for stuff going into lungs. That's just my personal preference--I'm not trying to involve myself with the above argument.
Click to expand...
Hey squiggly! What can you say about PET and PP ?
 
#102
PET is under the same phthalate scrutiny, as well as a few other possibilities--most of the concerns with this and PVC is possible disruption of the endocrine system.

PP is just flat out subject to chain degradation from heat and UV, not the best of choices.
 
#103
Again,Thank you for the info. I will look into this further. Have any extensive test been done by any one youve heard of involving butane and PVC or is this this just indefinate knowledge from other conditions PVC was used under extrapolated to the oil extraction feild? Again much apreciated
 
#104
I think you're excessive strict regarding PET and PP, both of them highly resistant to butane, especially when it comes to brief contact at low temperature.
 
#106
Wow. cool link, looks like PTFE is safer than PVC acording to those people and they seem to have done sufficent testing. most of my knowledge is just info ive gatherd extrapolated to oil making. Nice seeing this. But it also Seems like these Phthalates are every where and you would pretty much have to quit living to avoid them. The Environmental Working Group has focused on phthalates since 1998, when EWG reported that dibutyl phthalate found in 37 nail polishes was also present in the bodies of every single American tested. A 2000 EWG analysis of CDC data, called Beauty Secrets, found that dibutyl phthalate was present in the bodies of every single person tested for industrial pollutants. Diet is believed to be the main source of di-2-ethyl hexyl phthalate (DEHP) and other phthalates in the general population. Fatty foods such as milk, butter, and meats are a major sourcePhthalates are used in a large variety of products, from enteric coatings of pharmaceutical pills and nutritional supplements to viscosity control agents, gelling agents, film formers, stabilizers, dispersants, lubricants, binders, emulsifying agents, and suspending agents. End-applications include adhesives and glues, electronics, agricultural adjuvants, building materials, personal-care products, medical devices, detergents and surfactants, packaging, children's toys, modeling clay, waxes, paints, printing inks and coatings, pharmaceuticals, food products, and textiles.
 
#107
More of a bad thing rather than less is always worse--either way. Personal preference, as I said.
 
#108
I totally agree with the temperature thing. I know it's scientifically proven, but I'll just add my own 'field trials' to it. I set my hot water heater @ 138. This is
supposed to not change the color of wax, but certain strains have proven that wrong.
If i use only 100-110 water my wax definitely stays a lighter color.
I've also noticed that the drier my product is, the darker my wax will be. Of course it varies from strain to strain, but they each have their own truth gradient on this subject.
Best plant I've had for wax is Sour Dubble. It's constantly blonde as can be, with insane taste. I just started growing some Adub (Aliendawg Ether x Sour Dubble), hopefully this one will be even better.
 
#109
true grit said:
Bubbles don't mean trouble, some are air bubbles and wax/budder just means oxidized. Wax does not mean any less butane. The worst butane trapped oil i ever had was whipped into wax and was horrible.

Its a balance of heat and other things. And frankly after a certain temp you are changing the cannabinoid complex...ie low enough temps to cause viscosity without degrading THC. The strongest cannabinoid content we tested, was inactive but higher levels because it wasn't degraded in the process- which it becomes active when heated/vaped.
Click to expand...

T.G. - Do you know how to heat (scientific hot plate,etc.) inside the vacuum chamber? Can't figure that out. Product link or name would be great.
Thanks !!
 
#110
Nope sorry, I don't use hot plates. I just use a hot water bath to soak my pyrex in and use a temp gun to make sure the pyrex/oil doesn't exceed certain temps. The temp gun will allow you to check oil surface temps pre/post vacuuming.
 
#111
sky_blue said:
T.G. - Do you know how to heat (scientific hot plate,etc.) inside the vacuum chamber? Can't figure that out. Product link or name would be great.
Thanks !!
Click to expand...

First picture is different vacuum chambers that we use. Second picture shows a student sparkless hotplate inside a labratory vacuum dessicator, with the cord running through the rubber stopper in the lid, and a MASH pump providing vacuum.
 

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#112
Do you think a standard digital Corning hot plate is sparkless? It's lab-spec but doesn't specify "spark-less."
 
#114
Thanks Graywolf, just trying to be exact and prevent problems...
 
#115
I thought I might pursue this, but I think to do it best and safest may be too expensive for me right now. People do it all the time in an unsafe way, come out with fair to very good product, so more power to them, but I've read a lot about materials, heat, working in a vacuum and/or with a vacuum,etc. - and...-the only way to be safe is with eqpt more expensive than I can deal with. People actually heat up ordinary metal/polycarbonate vacuum chambers to maintain a sweet spot of active temp. but that is extremely unsafe. I saw an article related to this and a part of the vacuum chamber hook-up blew through a guy's hand and took a finger off. But, I don't see anyone at all getting blownup on Youtube and some true idiots are on there, so...(?).... who knows...
Anyway, I can see from your pics that you're prob. inside a full-blown lab, and you prob. have an exhaust hood, etc.
That's the kind of eqpt. you need. Not absolutely necessary, but another great safety item.
Anyway --- best of luck to everyone... I'm out...
 
#116
Good idea paying attention to the details! The requirements aren't that hard, but you must pay attention to win.
 
#117
Ive used that small vacuum chamber you have. To heat, I use a peace of floor tile while vacuuming lol. I throw it in the oven at the lowest temp, then I take it out, put the errl on top and place it in the vac on a small oven mitt. This keeps the temps in a descent range for me without having to buy a hot plate.
 
#120
Tank333 said:
Has anyone tried using a Seal-A-Meal with a mason jar as their vacuum chamber? I'm considering ordering one of these: http://www.amazon.com/FoodSaver-T03-0023-01-Wide-Mouth-Jar-Sealer/dp/B00005TN7H/ref=pd_sim_hg_1 and using it with my food saver...

I think using a mason jar as a vacuum chamber in a warm water bath is about as cheap as I can do it safely...
Click to expand...

ive tested how much vacuum i could get with a foodsaver w/ the mason jar attachment and it maxed out at 22hg. if you have all the stuff laying around todo this try it, cant hurt anything but dont relly on this as your only purging method. building a vac chamber can be pretty easy if you have any diy skills. anybody could make this setup for under $200 and it works perfect.
IMG 0532
 
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