Blurple light rebuilt mod help

[Wismo]

I made my picture bigger.

 

[OldSmokie76]

I have 4ea 45-75v dc output @ 700ma and 2ea (only info i can decipher) 150 -200w output .70 amp. Meter to determine the exact numbers in the near future. I'll try to keep you guys updated.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I have 4ea 45-75v dc output @ 700ma and 2ea (only info i can decipher) 150 -200w output .70 amp. Meter to determine the exact numbers in the near future. I'll try to keep you guys updated.

You would need a cob or light strip that falls within that DC voltage range and it's output amps. For example: Your LED you want to drive has an input voltage of 48v and an amp draw of .5 amps. You can run that chip with that driver.

 

[OldSmokie76]

You would need a cob or light strip that falls within that DC voltage range and it's output amps. For example: Your LED you want to drive has an input voltage of 48v and an amp draw of .5 amps. You can run that chip with that driver.

I could run multiple strips with a combined volt less than max rating on driver. Correct? Two strips 36v=72v. With these drivers being 700ma, the LEDs would be driven very soft resulting in high efficiency? I was hoping to run a few Samsung strips. I'll find the specs on those. The cxm-22 from luminous was another idea, but the light spread from strips seem to be better. Other than combined forward voltage not exceeding the driver capabilities and the driver not exceeding the LED current ability, what else is important when pairing drivers to LED. If a driver is rated at less watts than the LED is capable, kind of pointless match up, correct? I really have to know exact watt specs of these damn drivers. No?

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I could run multiple strips with a combined volt less than max rating on driver. Correct? Two strips 36v=72v. With these drivers being 700ma, the LEDs would be driven very soft resulting in high efficiency? I was hoping to run a few Samsung strips. I'll find the specs on those. The cxm-22 from luminous was another idea, but the light spread from strips seem to be better. Other than combined forward voltage not exceeding the driver capabilities and the driver not exceeding the LED current ability, what else is important when pairing drivers to LED. If a driver is rated at less watts than the LED is capable, kind of pointless match up, correct? I really have to know exact watt specs of these damn drivers. No?

I believe you are more likely to get up to .12 amps at the lower end of the voltage range and max of .7 at 72 volts. Running in series would not change your amp draw. It will simply double the voltage. You should be able to run 2 strips at up to .7 amps and 72 volts. Just be sure to run them in series at that voltage.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I believe you are more likely to get up to .12 amps at the lower end of the voltage range and max of .7 at 72 volts. Running in series would not change your amp draw. It will simply double the voltage. You should be able to run 2 strips at up to .7 amps and 72 volts. Just be sure to run them in series at that voltage.

I meant 1.2 amps at the lower voltage

 

[OldSmokie76]

The drivers in question are all from one blurple light i retired. The light was labeled 1200w. We all know that isn't the actual draw/output. Within the light there are four drivers and a separate "power supply". I'm still uncertain of the capable watts of each driver and I'm uncertain if the drivers need the power supply for whatever reason or it is separate for the three fans. I'm very confused. I'll have to trace the wiring i suppose. All that said, if i just know the volts and amps, and not know the watts, can i assume ea driver would be capable of two 36v strips. Driven at .7a.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

The drivers in question are all from one blurple light i retired. The light was labeled 1200w. We all know that isn't the actual draw/output. Within the light there are four drivers and a separate "power supply". I'm still uncertain of the capable watts of each driver and I'm uncertain if the drivers need the power supply for whatever reason or it is separate for the three fans. I'm very confused. I'll have to trace the wiring i suppose. All that said, if i just know the volts and amps, and not know the watts, can i assume ea driver would be capable of two 36v strips. Driven at .7a.

I would assume that all 4 drivers are the same. However, this power supply you mentioned has me wondering how your retired light is configured. The power supply is typically what changes your ac current to dc to power the lights. I suppose these could be dc to dc "buck blocks" that are actually driving the lights.

Any chance of finding the wiring schematic of this light? That would tell us everything.

 

[OldSmokie76]

I would assume that all 4 drivers are the same. However, this power supply you mentioned has me wondering how your retired light is configured. The power supply is typically what changes your ac current to dc to power the lights. I suppose these could be dc to dc "buck blocks" that are actually driving the lights.

Any chance of finding the wiring schematic of this light? That would tell us everything.

No manufacturer markings. Looked for the name on driver with no success. Best i can do is actual pics. Posted some earlier in thread. I'll include one of this light again.
Found some cobs i think can be used with the drivers. Cxm-22. Two per, totalling 8 cobs. I'll add the data sheets i found for reference. Just not sure if I'll get full power out of them with the drivers I'm trying to re-use. Begin questioning if worth it all.

 

[OldSmokie76]

When i have a chance, I'll get some better close ups of the wiring. Get a better look.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

When i have a chance, I'll get some better close ups of the wiring. Get a better look.

Actually, I see what is going on now. You have 4 constant current drivers with variable voltage but a fixed amp rating of .7 amps. Each one of those drivers is driving a portion of the now retired light. The other is a 12v power supply and its driving the fans.

Assuming that each of those constant current drivers are in working order, you can drive two 36v boards at .7 amps if you wire them in 2 board series for a total of 8 boards in your light.

 

[OldSmokie76]

Actually, I see what is going on now. You have 4 constant current drivers with variable voltage but a fixed amp rating of .7 amps. Each one of those drivers is driving a portion of the now retired light. The other is a 12v power supply and its driving the fans.

Assuming that each of those constant current drivers are in working order, you can drive two 36v boards at .7 amps if you wire them in 2 board series for a total of 8 boards in your light.

You are correct sir. Got a better look at the wiring last night. The supply is separate for the fans and is spliced into the (+/-) of one of the power leads to the drivers. Also, I have found this exact driver set up being used in a cob hack on another forum. So I'm thinking i can expect approx 50.4 watts from two of the luminous cobs paired up to each driver. An approx total of 200 watts for 8 cobs. Super efficient running such low current, but not really getting a whole lot outta the cobs. Return on investment? How to configure cobs with what heatsinks?
Pros..... The drivers could always be upgraded in the future to push the cobs a little more.
Cons... Large investment up front for cobs and heatsink set up. Wonder what kind of spacing i should consider when mounting cobs/heatsinks to frame.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

You are correct sir. Got a better look at the wiring last night. The supply is separate for the fans and is spliced into the (+/-) of one of the power leads to the drivers. Also, I have found this exact driver set up being used in a cob hack on another forum. So I'm thinking i can expect approx 50.4 watts from two of the luminous cobs paired up to each driver. An approx total of 200 watts for 8 cobs. Super efficient running such low current, but not really getting a whole lot outta the cobs. Return on investment? How to configure cobs with what heatsinks?
Pros..... The drivers could always be upgraded in the future to push the cobs a little more.
Cons... Large investment up front for cobs and heatsink set up. Wonder what kind of spacing i should consider when mounting cobs/heatsinks to frame.

If you're using the fans for active cooling, It lowers the cost. The light I built uses driver-less LED cobs. It was cheaper for me to get the power out of the lamp that I wanted to leave out the driver costs from the equation. When I bought my COBs, they were running about $2.00 a piece. The heatsinks and fans were about $13.00 each. My light runs cool enough that you can touch the heatsink and leave it there. It's only warm. I probably didn't save much money, but that's ok. I like building stuff.

 

[Wismo]

What type of board should I mount them to.
Will I need a heatsink?

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

What type of board should I mount them to.
Will I need a heatsink?

What are you going to be running? Quantum boards really should have a heatsink in my opinion. Otherwise, it's likely going to produce some heat at 100% brightness. With the heatsink, mine get warm but I can comfortably keep my hand on it without issues.

To answer you about the heatsink, it's a good rule to follow but it really depends on your application. If you're looking for a recommendation, I would need to know exactly what you are running and if you intend to use active or passive cooling on the heatsinks.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

@ Wismo

Your last driver photo is pretty clear. Your driver is rated at 50w. It has variable voltage of between 23vDC and 42vDC with a constant current of 1.2 amps. What does this mean? You are limited by that driver to a cob chip or LED board that has a voltage between 23v and 42v. There are a lot of 32-36v DC cobs available. I also believe you can find some Quantum boards at 36v. Your bigger limitation is the 1.2 amp output. You might find that you can't drive some of the boards at 100%. For cob LEDs, look for 50w at 32-36dc for your forward voltage. Regardless of what you choose, that driver wasn't made to drive a lot, so think one board or one cob @50w. You can also run properly chosen smd leds in series off that driver ... up to about 50 real watts. (+/- a bit depending on variables)

 

[Wismo]

Finally got around to rebuilding my light.
I picked up 3 lm561c S6 led Strips 2700 3500 and 6500k.
I have a little more to do to it then I will put it to work.
It's pretty bright.
Just a side note when I took my light apart the ground was attached to a screw that was too long and the wire was kind of just

floating on the screw no real connection,and the other crimped terminals broke off with minimal force.
Connections were flimsy.

 

[Wismo]

Ok so I'm on to rebuilding my my Mars 300.
It has probably 10 burned out led.
So I opened it up and heres

what's inside.
I only took picture of one but there's two .
Can someone decifer this to me.
DC out 55-86 v.
But .63 -.65a .
What can I do with this.
Strips like my last post or quantum board maybe two qb288 v2.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Ok so I'm on to rebuilding my my Mars 300.
It has probably 10 burned out led.
So I opened it up and heres View attachment 941759what's inside.
I only took picture of one but there's two .
Can someone decifer this to me.
DC out 55-86 v.
But .63 -.65a .
What can I do with this.
Strips like my last post or quantum board maybe two qb288 v2.

I don't know about strips without seeing the numbers on those.

What you have is a constant current driver with a variable DC output of 55-86v. Your .63-.65a is a limitation and I'm pretty sure you would not be able to drive a qb288 with it. This driver was made to run chips in series. It's not going to drive much in parallel.

 

[Wismo]

The strips each are rated for at 24 vdc and 1400 1800 ma but efficient at @1050 to 1400ma.