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Thanks, I use a sort of adapter pvc piece as a dam, a 5" endcap with a 40mm off-center hole in it. I can turn the endcap to raise/lower the level (upfront, not during the grow). I guess most people refer to it as flooded tubes, I prefer the term DFT (deep flow technique, opposed to NFT where a thin layer ensures aeration DFT is about flowing and continues circulation, hence waterfall on the returning ends). At some point I will rebuild and omit the sprayers that supply the nutrient solution to the larger tubes and just pump it in at one end. I already replaced the 360 micro sprayers with a more open 180 sprayer to increase the flow.with a tube that was adjustable at one end to control water level (like the aerojet machines have), worked great. Two thumbs up here bud. Lol
I should and will be using Aqua Flakes, but actually use the regular Hydro AB. I started with a starter kit (included most of the line) which at the shop I go too was only available as Hydro. Pretty good deal by itself (a little over $100 for a load of bottles and shooting powder). Knowing I would run out of the 1 liter AB bottles it included I got 5 liters of AB each on top of, which I still use 20 months later. I ran at 1000+ppm those first runs. Actually liked 'playing' with all the bottles but started reading up on plant nutrient uptake and once the additive bottles depleted I started noticing I was doing not only as well, but even better. That run above was 480 ppm from start to finish (except first and last week, ie. even lower then). I use the GHE Bloom because there's a tad too much N in the H&G AB. So not as an additive but replacing a portion of the AB (during full on flowering). The challenge with H&G alone wasn't keeping them green but preventing them from getting too dark. For me anyway, with nearly a dozen different strains though. Not sure if there's an actually N diff between Hydro and Aqua (more Mg and Iron), will be able to compare once I'm out of Hydro AB soon.When you say h&g nutes you talkin aqua flakes? If so your regimen is almost identical to mine. Never any boosters or other bullshit, all that does is gunk stuff up. Thought maybe I was the only crazy one here.
Ya for ppms I normally never hit over 300, I always see them expensive bottles of additives sitting in the shelf as I reach for the a&b and think about it for about 1 second. Then I remember, like you said. Stuff is so much healthier and vigorous its a no brainer. Great work again man, looking forward to your updates
Comparing IH#1 to IH#5 clearly showed the - what I consider - main advantage of tri-whorled phyllotaxy, an increased veg rate, i.e. decreased veg time. With regular phyllotaxy the leaves of every other node overlap each others (even nodes overlap even, uneven overlaps uneven). With neatly tri-whorled phyllotaxy there is not only a 3rd leaf (and lateral shoot), but it also whorls, or spirals...
Spiral phyllotaxy is sort of in between regular and whorled phyllotaxy. The difference with spiral and whorled is that with the latter the leaves start on the same level. An architect tried to apply this principle (of better light interception) to a building:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/User:Saleh_Masoumi/Phyllotaxy_towers
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