Brown Algae in UC, RDWC, MPBs

[Donkdbz]

This stuff is retarted makes mites and root aphids look like a joke.

Lost my 1st run in my UC setup after a few weeks of veg.

Threw all my girls out. Drained and scrubbed with physan 20. Filled and added physan and let pumps run a day. Drained cleaned again filled put physan sit while new girls were vegging.

But of course could not clean all the nooks and crannys in the PCV.

So got the girls in the tubs again. Running DM zone this time. roots popping out great. but saw a small lil bit of brown algae on roots again. So I threw what I had left of Hydro-Fungicide I had left in the tanks and more is on the way.

So from my experience what not to do

1-mix it up with root rot and add any of these. Might as well get in line, bend over grab you ankle and bend over cause its your turn.
2-roots excel
3-zyms
4-bennes

any of those and the algae takes off at insane speeds

My questions

1- does brown algae need light to grow? cause I cannot figure out where light would be getting into my tubs

2- adding hydro-fungicide while DM zone was already in the system any problems?
like decreasing effect of hydrofungicide?

a couple pics to come.

 

[mrdizzle]

killed the algae with 1tsp per 15gal nutes, ran for 2 days, then drained, filled and drained again, then hit with the HYDROfungi at 4ml per gal, then dosed it 1/2 strength every other day. HYDROfungicide really works for it too alone, drop the zone and just use the hydrofingicide, add it daily for insane results if you have any sort of problem

groovyhydro will get that shit to you in a day or two

 

[aleYarok]

fuck i didnt know zyms and excel would make it worst.
(i know most people stop excel at like weeks 3-4 but our root mass isnt that big so i was taking it till week 6)
the algae is taking over. should i throw the physan in there now (with the zym and excell) for 2 days? or flush first and nute up without zym and excell before adding physan for 2 days?

i wont be able to do a flush until tomorrow as lights are about to come on.
another thing learned.

i feel like ive been going through way to much HF keeping things in check for the past couple weeks but now all of sudden the brown is coming out of nowhere

i also have all the buckets and res covered in reflective so not much light should be getting in, but who knows

 

[mrdizzle]

do not use the enzymes in RDWC. Blows the algae out of the water its insane, over night that shit will turn insane

just drain the system, at physan at 1tsp per 15 gal, add a low dose nutes like 500ppm for a couple days, then flush out and get back to schdule with hydrofungicide added only, no other zone or physan or bleach, just the hydro fungi

 

[Donkdbz]

I only have a lil algae right now I tossed 60ml of hydrofungicide cause that was all that I had should be getting another bottle in 3-4days. Gonna run whole time.

Just tripping me out how the crap is still going a lil even with no light. After this run I am just gonna rebuild with all new stuff including pumps.


Physan is gonna destroy the zyms and excel. I did Mr Dizzles 1-2 punch the 1st run but it was too late.


This is the "1-2 Punch" as we documented it:

One-Two Punch Directions for a Nasty Reservoir

1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet.

 

[aleYarok]

do not use the enzymes in RDWC. Blows the algae out of the water its insane, over night that shit will turn insane

just drain the system, at physan at 1tsp per 15 gal, add a low dose nutes like 500ppm for a couple days, then flush out and get back to schdule with hydrofungicide added only, no other zone or physan or bleach, just the hydro fungi

i cant drain it right now as lights are on, so ill just wait till tomorrow.
thanks

 

[mrdizzle]

I only have a lil algae right now I tossed 60ml of hydrofungicide cause that was all that I had should be getting another bottle in 3-4days. Gonna run whole time.

Just tripping me out how the crap is still going a lil even with no light. After this run I am just gonna rebuild with all new stuff including pumps.


Physan is gonna destroy the zyms and excel. I did Mr Dizzles 1-2 punch the 1st run but it was too late.


This is the "1-2 Punch" as we documented it:

One-Two Punch Directions for a Nasty Reservoir

1 – Add Physan20 to your existing tank at a rate of one teaspoon per 15 gallons of reservoir. This comes out to 1ml of Physan20 for every THREE gallons in your tank. So divide your tank gallon capacity by 3, then add that many ml of Physan20. Run this tank for 3 days. Groovy set up a wholesale account with the manufacturer of Physan20 after we had a nice chat with the owner of that company. They are only 5 miles away from our office. We didn’t pull any punches, we asked what the application rate for MMJ Hydroponic reservoirs would be. The owner let us know that although Physan20 is a poison, in the dilution he recommended it would NOT be toxic to the plants.
Furthermore, he let us know that Physan20 biodegrades into NITROGEN in 3 to 7 days depending on the tank conditions. Therefore he stated that plants will not concentrate and store the toxic elements of Physan20 and will pose no threat upon consumption of the MMJ Crop. For this reason we recommend running the initial dose 3 days, then draining the reservoir to eliminate any traces of Physan to ease your mind, and also to clear out any dead organic matter such as dead algae, fungus, bacteria, and dead root matter.
2 – Mix up a fresh reservoir of your regular nutrient schedule. Lastly, add in 2ml of Hydro-Fungicide per Gallon of your new reservoir. Add the same ratio to any top-off water you add, and replenish the full amount once a week if you haven’t changed your reservoir out yet.

thats the shit right there

 

[Donkdbz]

Buckets Light proofed

Current Pics of this run

Pic from last run that failed the yzms and excel made it grow so fast that roots where completely cover with this muck in a couple days.

 

[FLB]

oxygenated water and the right water temp makes it explode also. The reason I don't use air stones.

 

[jimmyhoffa59]

Any experts in on this one? I experiences this when I switched from H&G to Advanced personally. I just want this poor guy to have a clean running system.

 

[jimg1043]

I have problems with ph

Has anyone experienced ph dropping down to low 4.0 using the hydrofungicide i set my ph at 5.6 in rdwc next morning it will be low is this normal my roots look great just hope plants are eating with the ph dropping low could someone help, or have an answer using advanced sensi products and supplements?:confused0054:

 

[GroovyHydro]

thats the shit right there

That is, MrDizz - thats what we print and put in the box when people order the combo pack off groovyhydro.com . . . and I wrote it from YOUR discovery of the method! Several weeks ago I had wrote on another thread expressing thanks to you for the method, and offering you a free gallon. It was kind of buried in an obscure thread, so if this is the first time you're seeing this, PM me ANY address and i'll get you a gallon out.

One thing that recently came to light you guys, is that the brown algae spores a.k.a. snot slime spores are caught from TAP WATER. So when I see you guys sanitize then flush with TAP! Oh Boy. And to make it worse, supposedly the spores MAKE IT THROUGH RO systems. Therefore, to be safe safe safe and START with truly clean water, try a UV sterilizer after your RO.
They aren't too much money, even around a $79 one will do 1/2gallon a minute.

This way, you can not be feeding the fire by continuously adding new spores in.

Then you can get by with the maintanence dose of your favorite tank cleaner ;)

 

[Donkdbz]

Groovy can Hydrofungicide be used along with H202 ?
What about chlorine or chloramines? Any decrease in effectiveness?


On another interesting note been reading through aquarium sites and

Referred to as a microalgae, brown or golden algae is actually not an algae at all, but diatoms. What you are actually seeing in your tank are diatom skeletons, all linked together.

# Nutrients: Diatoms are most responsive to silca/silicates, but DOCs (Dissolved Organic Compounds), nitrates, and phosphates are food sources as well.

* Silicates are most often introduced into aquariums by means of using unfiltered fresh tap water, the wrong kind of sand or substrate material, and through sea salt mixes that contain a higher than normal concentration of this element.

There are some very plausible theories as to why this algae often appears in newly set up tanks and then later disappears. If the silicate (Si) to phosphate (P) ratio is high, then diatoms are likely to have a growth advantage over true algae types and Cyanobacteria. Some of the silicate may come from the tapwater, but it will also be leached from the glass of new aquaria, and potentially from silica sand/gravel substrates to some extent. Later, when this leaching has slowed, and phosphate is accumulating in the maturing tank, the Si:P ratio will change in favour of phosphate, which is likely to favour the growth of green algae instead


Looks like no more silica blast in my res also gonna need to get new bottle of PH up cause mine has silica.

 

[Donkdbz]

Went and picked up some 35% h202 today. Did a root check still had gunk on em not any new growth. Added 1 1/2ml gallon. 30 mins later did another check brown gunk gone.

 

[mrdizzle]

groovy whats up bro, I just scooped up a gal from you, got it yesterday. I like the new bottle

your right about the tap water, I do believe that is the source of it all, I def think UV filter inbetween the source and your system or inline with your RO system is the way to go.

PLUS pump the hydrofungi

 

[GroovyHydro]

Hey there Guys,good thread here.

Donk - its hard to get a precise answer from the manufactuer, SandA, about using it with other products. One thing for sure is, using it with bennies will waste your bennies money. Another point is, nothing catastrophic will happen by using it with H2O2 or chlor-based products. But, as for the effect diminishing or multiplying, I can't really say because it would be an un-educated guess. The only fact based thing I can say is, if you used H2O2 waiting for your next batch of HF, the H2O2 dissolves out within 24-48 hours so you can dose up with HF in the same reservoir full of nutes for sure.

MrDizz, I didn't know you were already a customer, thanks for the compliment on the new Label\Bottle. The next gallons on the house, PM me your name or email so I can figure out who you are in the customer base when you need to re-up.

Someone asked on another thread if we can let it go in concentrate form, sorry guys the answer is no. We are on strict orders to release it in ready-to-use form only.

 

[aleYarok]

DDs doesnt even use a tall boy, straight tap and has no problems... granted his water is really good up in canada, but water coming out of a tall boy is much cleaner than his tap.

hmmm will have to try out h202, 30 min? seems too good to be true

 

[opt1c]

what are your water temps???

 

[Donkdbz]

Mine are 66-67

The H202 pretty much dissolved 80% of the gunk the hydrofungi killed

 

[deacon1503]

Went and picked up some 35% h202 today. Did a root check still had gunk on em not any new growth. Added 1 1/2ml gallon. 30 mins later did another check brown gunk gone.

i like this. whats the best place to get 35%? HD, hardware, or pharmacy?

so it basically did a insta-clean of the roots, and u were back to white?