Bugs.... What to do!!!???

[sm0tp0k3r]

Whats your take on bugs.. what to use.. when to spray.. what works what dosnt.. how do i clean my room when i axe my plants.. opinions needs, options and heres my situations... blasted off few crops... never had em at my new place... im at 5.5 week point on an 8 week bloom.. came home from a short trip... we got mites.. little fuckers got webs on 10% of the room.. i destroyed there webs and sprayed with some ph water and soap.. but i was thinking.. when i pull my pots to prune.. and stake.. spray for bugs same time.. what works.. whats the method.. HELP!

 

[CT Guy]

I like to use a diluted bleach solution to cleanse my room between harvests. However, for some organic people that might be too harsh.

For mites, there are some different organic options. I use Ahimsa Neem Oil (neemresource.com), dyna grow protekt (any hydro shop), and aloe (you could use dr. bronners soap or yucca instead).

Recipe for 1 quart of spray is:
1 T. of neem mixed in a cup with 1 t. of protekt. This emulsifies the neem.

Then I mix 1 T. of aloe (surfactant) in with a quart of tepid water (this is important, you don't want it too hot).

Finally, I mix it all together and spray right before lights off, as the neem biodegrades under light quite quickly. This works wonders for powdery mildew, but will also kill mites in my experience.

Hope that helps!

 

[Thatgirl]

I took over a grow from my parents, and they had a stock pile of these pyrethren foggers. They are for commercial greenhouses but I think just about every grow shop carries them. I dont think they are organic, but as far as chemicals, I know pyrethrens are some of the mildest. The label says it can be used on fruiting plants, but not within x amount of time before harvest of course, I think it might be like 2 or 3 weeks or something. I would for sure use something like that for after you chop and clean out though, really blast it to em!

 

[roxy002]

I remember one grow where my crop became infested with spidermites. They was about a week into flower, and around 40% of the leaves where covered in yellow spots where the mites had been sucking the life out of them. On closer inspection at the bottom of the leaves, just at the node sections there was really fine webs, and this was every where!

All this happened in only a matter of 1 week, as I left someone to look after things while I was away. Problem is, they never knew the signs and it got bad. Quick, real quick!

I panicked, and thought this was game over. I read articles and scoured every cannabis forum on the internet.

One product jumped out at me straight away. It had nothing but good reviews.

The only negative feedback I found was that it never displayed the ingredients, and the company who made the stuff had the ingredients close to their chest. This is understandable, but at the same time you don't know what nasty chemicals it contains.

Anyway, I bought some and followed the instructions. After 3 - 4 days, I noticed that things wasn't getting any worse, so this was a good sign. After a week, things still wasn't getting any worse, but they still hadn't packed up and left yet!

Then I found a product called phytoseiulus - they are a natural predatory spider mite and will feed of the spider mites in your grow room.

I stopped using plant vitality and order these mites. They came in a little plastic test tube. On the packet it said to just open the lid and leave the tube in the grow room. They will then go off in search of feed and lay eggs.

And that's what they Did. They went off and a had a feast. Within a couple of days they had gone! I couldn't believe it! No webs, no spidermites, nothing. Job done.

So that's what I'd recommend to you. I'm sure you'll see your ladies through to harvest in prime condition.

Good luck!

 

[ExoticGenetix]

Best advice is to Bomb, next day spray, wait 2 days and repeat, wait 2 days and repeat. If you can get them gone before they are adults then you have them beat. Its not as easy as it sounds but i have seen it done. Spray being azamax and bombs being dr doom. However, i wouldnt do this past the first few weeks of bloom, hopefully by then though they woould be gone!

 

[michiganlady]

I have the mite thing figured out. But fungus gnats are going to be the death of me. I have sprayed and treated the dirt. Not sure where they come from. My moisture level is wnl.

 

[Elbow]

michganlady, try yellow sticky fly traps around your containers, insecticidal DE on the surface of your soil, and BTi (mosquito dunks) in your water/tea/top dressed into soil.

 

[rootsnshoots]

michganlady, try yellow sticky fly traps around your containers, insecticidal DE on the surface of your soil, and BTi (mosquito dunks) in your water/tea/top dressed into soil.

I got a doughnut of that mosquito dunk stuff from a friend who used it on his Oyster mushrooms w/o ill effect. Just checking with you to see if it is super plant safe before i go balls out with it. Can you guide me with your application/ crumble and top dress, dissolve in water? ratios?

 

[Elbow]

"ratios?"

not much. cut that doughnut into 1/4's. maybe even 1/8th's... I used a mortar and pestil... (the same one I use to grind my own granite dust) to get the granules of the dunk into dust. (warning: don't breath in the dust of the dunks or granite for that matter) top dress with the dust or add it to bubbling tea. seems like it's safe enough for plants ( a lot of people are using them too) not sure how it reacts with beneficial nematodes though.

top dressing needs to get under the surface of your soil, a mild tilling action, to help push the material into the soil where the larvae live ( it will kill the larvae after they ingest it... it's not effective on the adults that's why you need sticky tape or dry DE on the surface of the soil) that's the purpose of adding it to water or tea, to help the finer particles travel deep into your soil.

Oyster mushrooms are so good. we make an Oyster mushroom Ragout at the restaurant.

 

[tattoojim]

piperonyl butoxcide, technical ...is added to pyrethrins ...makes it a super form, and stays in the flys system longer for a more affective kill.
i got a thread called THE FUNGUS GNAT DESTROYER

 

[Elbow]

"just for the record...m.dunks are pyrethryns....unless they just started putting BTI in them"

this is a false statement. tattoojim... please read http://www.summitchemical.com/mosquito/mosquito-dunks/ for more information on the active ingredient in mosquito dunks

MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET (OSHA 174 Sept 1985 Format).
____________________________________________________________
Product Identity (Label Name) MOSQUITO DUNKS
______ _____________________________________________________
SECTION 1___________________________________________________
Manufacturer's Name SUMMIT CHEMICAL COMPANY
Address
7657 CANTON CENTER DRIVE
BALTIMORE MD
Zip Code
21224
Telephone Number
(410) 282-5200 / (800) 227-8664
Date Prepared
11/01/98
EPA NO. 6218-47
____________________________________________________________
SECTION 2 Hazardous Ingredients/Identity_Information________
Hazardous Components.
OTHER LIMITS
OSHA PEL
ACGIH TLV
NO HAZARDOUS OR TOXIC COMPONENTS.
____________________________________________________________
SECTION 3 Physical_Characteristics__________________________
Boilina Pt. N/A
Sp. Gravity. LESS DENSE THAN
WATER.
Vap. Press. N/A
Melt. Pt. NONE.
Vap. Density. N/A
Evap. Rate. N/A
Solubility in water. N/A
Appearance.
LIGHT BROWN DONUT - SHAPED DISKS.
Odor.
ESSENTIALLY NONE.
____________________________________________________________
SECTION 4 Fire and Explosion Hazard Data____________________
Flash Point. NONE.
Method Used.
Flammable Limits. L.E.L. NONE.
U.E.L. NONE.
Extinquishing Media.
WATER, CONVENTIONAL FIRE
EXTINGUISHERS.

^^ circa 1998... so if 1998 is what you call just started then yes they just started putting BTi in the dunks 15 years ago.

 

[Elbow]

tattoojim,

You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.

but, I will give you the benefit of the doubt (not my doubt, but whatever) produce for me here in this thread a copy of why you feel Mosquito Dunks ( which are approved for livestock drinking troughs, pyrethrins are not) contain pyrethrins, I believe you are confused. or you may have me confused with some one else.

p.s. I've got your smart ass ...

 

[WalterWhiteFire]

Stylet oil, dude!!!

 

[Elbow]

MSDS

It is intended to provide workers and emergency personnel with procedures for handling or working with that substance in a safe manner, and includes information such as physical data (melting point, boiling point, flash point, etc.), toxicity, health effects, first aid, reactivity, storage, disposal, protective equipment, and spill-handling procedures.

re-read the MSDS... you will find an area that states

NO HAZARDOUS OR TOXIC COMPONENTS.

this means, based on the MSDS, whatever is in these dunks is not hazardous to humans, pets, aquatic animals, or the environment.

on to the "fly spray" manufactured by summit (same co. that makes mosquito dunks), reading this MSDS is a different story

Material Safety Data Sheet
OSHA 174 Sept. 1985 Format
Product Identity (Label Name) SUMMIT PYRETHRIN FOG CONCENTRATE 123
Section 1
Manufacturer’s Name Summit Chemical Company
Address
7657 Canton Center Drive
Baltimore, MD 21224
Telephone Number
410-282-5200
Date Prepared
11/20/86
Section 2 Hazardous Ingredients/ Identity Information
Hazardous Components
Pyrethrins
Refined petroleum solvent
OSHA PEL
ACGIH TLV
5mg/ MMM
Other Limits
Not determined
Section 3 Physical characteristics
Boiling Point
Vap. Press
Vap. Density
Solubility in water
Appearance
350 to 530 degrees F

did you see that? pyrethrins are listed on this hazardous material safety data sheet as hazardous. this would lead me to believe... pyrethrins are hazardous and NOT in mosquito dunks.


the label on this pyrethrin fog concentrate clearly states itself, it doesn't say "mosquito dunks" any where. nor does the mosquito dunk package say pyrethrin fog concentrate anywhere.

normally I don't give two shits about an ass clown, except for post #10 "just for the record...m.dunks are pyrethryns....unless they just started putting BTI in them"

Just for the record... misinformation is not what this site is all about. Supposedly, it's supposed to be about learning from expert growers and breeders and what not...

Our community offers expert growing advice from the leaders of the industry. We are the only discussion board that allows the end user to interact directly with the breeders, beside offering a wealth of technical information to both experts and newcomers. Regardless of the number of plants you want to grow, THCFarmer is the right place to acquire the proper information needed to succeed with your growing techniques.

Elbow out.
have a nice day.

 

[Seamaiden]

I have the mite thing figured out. But fungus gnats are going to be the death of me. I have sprayed and treated the dirt. Not sure where they come from. My moisture level is wnl.

If you can't get rid of them, they may not be fungus gnats. I could have sworn I told you this in another thread....

I've used Mosquito Dunks and found that I prefer other methods. DE and the like aren't it. But... come to think of it... I can't remember the last time I had to deal with fungus gnats. It was root aphids, 2yrs ago. It's been a long time, but, if I did have to deal w/them again, I'd use Microbelift instead of the dunks since the dunks have a massive PITA (Pain In The Ass) factor. Microbelift is a liquid, much easier to use in this scenario. The dunks are meant for ponds and standing bodies of water.

Or, I'd actually be a lot more likely to use the Greenlight neem oil I already have on hand, emulsified, since I've never tried it that way before and so many people are telling me it's how they're handling a lot of pest issues.

I like Stylet oil, but have never used it for FGs or even RAs. Spider mites and PM it's fantastic for, and I use it in most tank mixes since it's an adjuvant and helps with sticking & spreading.

 

[Ever after]

kill your plants and start over after you clean your grown room entirely and then be clean take lots of showers and clean your cloths....................

 

[organicozarks]

I can not believe that no one is using nematodes. Some of the suggestions on here are not even organic.

Instead of neem oil bubble up some neem cake in your compost tea brewer, and soil drench, and foliar feed. Your fungus gnats will be gone in 2-3 applications. Use it once a week, and you will not have bug problems.

 

[OctoberDee]

I can not believe that no one is using nematodes. Some of the suggestions on here are not even organic.

Instead of neem oil bubble up some neem cake in your compost tea brewer, and soil drench, and foliar feed. Your fungus gnats will be gone in 2-3 applications. Use it once a week, and you will not have bug problems.

Also why has no one mentioned Capulators Foliar Pack, full of bug eating fungus and bacterias. No chems or poisons just nasty fungi that feed on pests.

 

[PButter]

Humidity will give you some lee way with spider mites. 80%+ will explode their (shit I forget... the adult's body or the mite eggs) anyway, emulsified neem oil combined with generally keeping your plants healthy should take care of spider mites. Keep your room temps down until you get in front of spider mites. In a really bad scenario, wipe the fuckers off your plants(every square inch...) with a cloth with neem oil on it in the hour or so after lights off. PITA. A friend only deals with Azamax- I only deal with 'pure cold-pressed neem oil. Don't do the 'wait til you harvest and vacuum off your bud'- that is just lazy and why are you doing organic efforts if you are willing to let your grow suffer in that manner?

I take care of fungus gnats with a product I'm calling 'Gnattrol' in conjunction with sticky traps to catch the flyers. It has been a while since I memorized the bottle but 'organic' and some bacteria name stand out in my mind. This is a similar thing to mosquito dunks in that you need to get it in the soil with a drench but I find it is far more effective than dunks and it doesn't ask for sitting in water overnight as I think the dunks do. Nothing against dunks- I just feel like this product works much better for me.

Cap's bennies are great. Keeping your soil in a healthy state and not lacking or wanting for good bacteria and good fungus really allows the plants to stay ahead of the pest and disease curve. I have not had to (knock on wood) deal with root aphids but the only success stories I have heard of with root aphids involve cap's bennies.

Nematodes. mentioned here now... Nematodes.

PB

 

[Blaze]

I took over a grow from my parents, and they had a stock pile of these pyrethren foggers. They are for commercial greenhouses but I think just about every grow shop carries them. I dont think they are organic, but as far as chemicals, I know pyrethrens are some of the mildest. The label says it can be used on fruiting plants, but not within x amount of time before harvest of course, I think it might be like 2 or 3 weeks or something. I would for sure use something like that for after you chop and clean out though, really blast it to em!

Do not use pyrethren based products for mites, that is one of the worst things you can do!!! I can't believe no one mentioned this. Pyrethrins actually simulate the mites reproductive cycle and can cause even more severe outbreaks. Carbaryl based products also cause similar problems. In general broad spectrum insecticides do a very poor job of controlling mites and should not be used as they can increase the severity of the outbreak.

Mites also really thrive in hot weather so keeping your grow room form over heating helps a lot. One of the best preventative measures is to simply make sure your plants are not water stressed. Spider mites will specifically attack water-stressed plants as they are more vulnerable. Also making sure you have lots of air movement in the room will help keep them at bay - mites do not like wind. For some reason dust stimulates them as well so if you are growing outdoors or in a greenhouse keeping dust to a minimum helps a lot too.

If you want to avoid pesticides your best bet IMO is to remove all plants from the room once you are done, sterilize it, then start over again. Use as many preventative measures as possible (air movement, avoiding water stress, etc) and you should have a much easier time dealing with them.