GNick55
- Posts
- 15,437
- Reactions
- 49,468
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2020
- Points
- 438
yesWell my phone apparently is a POS and doesn't want to work with that photone app, that would have been awesome.
It's not a crazy increase but would something like this work instead? View attachment 1240873
It would take my wattage from 150 to 330 and introduce red/blue outside of just plain daylight white like I have currently
330w equivalent on those 5 bulbs combined. All those lights combined only draw 52w total. You need the real watts.Well my phone apparently is a POS and doesn't want to work with that photone app, that would have been awesome.
It's not a crazy increase but would something like this work instead? View attachment 1240873
It would take my wattage from 150 to 330 and introduce red/blue outside of just plain daylight white like I have currently
Yeah I think a cheap 20 dollar grow light from Walmart would probably do more than those... they usually have them in the garden section. Or just the big grow bulb, the cone style one inside one of those round metal hoods the reflect light, also at Walmart or any box store probably.330w equivalent on those 5 bulbs combined. All those lights combined only draw 52w total. You need the real watts.
Cool thanks for the input there, yeah definitely not ideal but it's what I can string together without hurting my wallet right now. Even 25% is a step in the right direction hopefully lolYou could run those bulbs. Cut the plastic diffuser off and get them right up in there next to the plant. It would be a 25% increase in wattage and would help. Not ideal, but if it's what you've got, why not.
Cool all good input thanks!There could be a few things going on. From the medium, feed, or lighting. Or a combination of both. An ec meter should tell you where you’re at with your ppm. If your plan is not able to take in the ppm then you could experience burnt tips like you see on some of your leaves. Another thing I’ve noticed as I would prune a little bit at the bottom so that the energy of the plant could be redirected to the top where the most beneficial colas will be harvested. Also be sure to check the pH before you water the plants and check the pH of the runoff. Hope this helps some.
Okay I understand now. So high equivalent wattage with low draw means it's bright to me and my eyes but 'hollow' so to say for the plants. Until now I've thought of PAR and brightness being pretty much the same but I see now why that's wrong thanks!The led industry bases their "equivalent wattage" on how much light an incandescent bulb would put out. So a 100w equivalent would be as bright as a 100w incandescent, but only consume 8w for the LEDs or so. This is based on lumens for humans and their eye needs. Plant use light differently, they need PAR and a certain amount everyday. To effectively supply PAR you need enough power (wattage). For flowering cannabis, you want at least 30w per square foot if using LEDs.
The light I linked to has no fan. Just heatsinks.Can anyone clear up wattage equivalent vs actual wattage draw for me?
I'm aware that the actual wattage draw Is the amount of watts being pulled from the wall to power the light. 9 looking at my purple light.
I know that wattage equivalent is supposed to be the amount of light energy being produced and put off by the individual LEDs in the light combined. 60 for my purple light so I imagine maybe 20 individual LEDs each rated for 3W totaling 60w equivalent.
I also know these numbers are 100% balls to the wall for the LEDs and that they will probably never run that intense, they just have the potential to.
I guess my main question is why is it more important to look at wattage draw vs wattage equivalent? In the light like mentioned earlier, the actual draw is 150 watts. But the light also includes a fan to cool the system which would eat from that 150 watts of power so you're left with less for the lights themselves in theory right?
I know that light kicks all of mines ass but wouldn't it be possible for a light with a higher wattage draw to be less efficient and produce less usable light than a smaller more effective light regardless of actual power drawn?
Long mess of a question but I just can't seem to get to the bottom of LEDs, thanks for all the help and info. Not trying to be stubborn just trying to learn haha
I think she looks healthy and vibrant to me! If you can add a simple ge grow light bulb red (flowering) that’s a quick and cheap way to help flowering. I’m also starting to use Signal and Flower Fuel!The container is 9.4 inch pot so roughly 3 gallons I believe.
I water to about 15-25% runoff every watering
Its not an auto, it started as a clone I bought from a local dispensary (though I guess It could be an auto still but I dont think it is)
I switched the lights to 12/12 on 3/25 so I believe that puts me at 6 weeks now but it sure don't look it lol here's today View attachment 1240653View attachment 1240655
Yeah but it’s recommended you get white spectrum so you can see leaf color/spot issues easier. I use GE brand grow lights, I have the white and flower (warm pink) version.Amazon linkGot another light question. Would one of the 9 watt purple LEDs be enough for 2 seedlings in a 1 sq ft box? If so about how far from the plants, 3"?
Yeah the purple makes it hard to tell what's going on. Thought I could see a whitish outline forming on the single blade leafs in the purple, turned normal light on and they were completely fineYeah but it’s recommended you get white spectrum so you can see leaf color/spot issues easier. I use GE brand grow lights, I have the white and flower (warm pink) version.Amazon link
You need at least 300 wattsI've been wondering about that myself,
I've just got 2 hyper tough led shop lights running for a total of 150 watts
Search led argument for dummies lots of opinionsCan anyone clear up wattage equivalent vs actual wattage draw for me?
I'm aware that the actual wattage draw Is the amount of watts being pulled from the wall to power the light. 9 looking at my purple light.
I know that wattage equivalent is supposed to be the amount of light energy being produced and put off by the individual LEDs in the light combined. 60 for my purple light so I imagine maybe 20 individual LEDs each rated for 3W totaling 60w equivalent.
I also know these numbers are 100% balls to the wall for the LEDs and that they will probably never run that intense, they just have the potential to.
I guess my main question is why is it more important to look at wattage draw vs wattage equivalent? In the light like mentioned earlier, the actual draw is 150 watts. But the light also includes a fan to cool the system which would eat from that 150 watts of power so you're left with less for the lights themselves in theory right?
I know that light kicks all of mines ass but wouldn't it be possible for a light with a higher wattage draw to be less efficient and produce less usable light than a smaller more effective light regardless of actual power drawn?
Long mess of a question but I just can't seem to get to the bottom of LEDs, thanks for all the help and info. Not trying to be stubborn just trying to learn haha
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?