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Calcium issues with autos and calmag

  • Thread starter Thread starter Wolters_88
  • Start date Start date Dec 5, 2020
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Calcium issues with autos and calmag

Wolters_88 Dec 5, 2020 150 Replies 20,844 Views
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Wolters_88

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#21
Good lord, I guess I will start another post so I can get help on my post since this one has been completely hijacked.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#22
Wolters_88 said:
I’m using GH three part with 5ml of calmag per gallon in coco. I’m watering at 6.0-6.2 PH and I’m 7 weeks in on the oldest plant. I’m around 900 PPM.
Click to expand...


calcium spots. From your info likely too much cal mag and too much nutes.
 
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linde

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#23
Homesteader said:
Sorry I can't circle the photo and show you but I see a few of them on the leaf. If you look at the black spots (shit) on the leaf in the center you can see a thrip right above it. There is one also on the opposite side of the center leaf. Thrips are a pain in the ass but not too hard to kill.
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not sure about that. thrips are much harder to kill than mites. they fly, mites dont. they lay eggs in soil, mites dont. they spread from plant to plant, mites generally don't. they are a royal pain in the ass! if it is trips that you have good luck getting rid of them.
 
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Wolters_88

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#24
MIMedGrower said:
calcium spots. From your info likely too much cal mag and too much nutes.
Click to expand...

So I’m getting a calcium deficiency from too much calcium and magnesium?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#25
Wolters_88 said:
So I’m getting a calcium deficiency from too much calcium and magnesium?
Click to expand...


maybe. Thats what a nutrient lockout is. Too much blocks the roots and or one nutrient overload antagonizes another. Can also be from environment, watering too often, cold roots, ph drift. Lots of variables.

You can lower the ec or try adding more cal mag and see if it gets better or worse.
 
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Wolters_88

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#26
MIMedGrower said:
maybe. Thats what a nutrient lockout is. Too much blocks the roots and or one nutrient overload antagonizes another. Can also be from environment, watering too often, cold roots, ph drift. Lots of variables.

You can lower the ec or try adding more cal mag and see if it gets better or worse.
Click to expand...

My water starts at 350 PPM before I even put anything in it.

I would think going into flower it would be an issue of not putting enough since it isn’t an issue the entire time during veg. Why I was asking what else I could add to get more calcium into the soil. This is my third grow and it has been an issue all three times. The first two times I used much less and it was much worse.
 
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MIMedGrower

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#27
Wolters_88 said:
My water starts at 350 PPM before I even put anything in it.

I would think going into flower it would be an issue of not putting enough since it isn’t an issue the entire time during veg. Why I was asking what else I could add to get more calcium into the soil. This is my third grow and it has been an issue all three times. The first two times I used much less and it was much worse.
Click to expand...


350 ppm source water may be too high without filtering. I would cut that in half with ro water. I sure would not add more calcium. Do you know whats in there?

the cal mag can temporarily green things up but it comes back no?
 
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Homesteader

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#28
linde said:
not sure about that. thrips are much harder to kill than mites. they fly, mites dont. they lay eggs in soil, mites dont. they spread from plant to plant, mites generally don't. they are a royal pain in the ass! if it is trips that you have good luck getting rid of them.
Click to expand...

Thrips aren't fun but they aren't THAT scary depending how many plants you have and how early you get to work at fighting them. With soil you kind of have to assume you have some and give your young plants extra attention to spot any feeding on the leaves and treat with a soap/oil. They lay eggs into the leaves and then the larva feeds for a week before pupating into the soil though and the adults live there. You wont see them fly very often indoors. You can use tanglefoot on the stalk or around it if you dare and get the adults/pupua when they climb to lay eggs or get top the soil. yellow stickies are a bit less effective but work.
 
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Wolters_88

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#29
So they are taking a turn for the worst. I don’t know what to do now.
 

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Beachwalker

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#30
Wolters_88 said:
So they are taking a turn for the worst. I don’t know what to do now.
Click to expand...
How often are you watering and how much runoff are you getting and what has been your most recent runoff numbers
 
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Wolters_88

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#31
Beachwalker said:
How often are you watering and how much runoff are you getting and what has been your most recent runoff numbers
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I water one day then nutes the next day. I get about 25% runoff. I literally just watered and my PH is 6.17
 
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MIMedGrower

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#32
Wolters_88 said:
So they are taking a turn for the worst. I don’t know what to do now.
Click to expand...


i suggested flushing out the excess nutes and re feeding with a much lower strength balanced complete nute. The plant is locked out of at least calcium now.

when you are feeding regularly and see so much deficiency up top its nute stress.
 
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Beachwalker

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#33
MIMedGrower said:
i suggested flushing out the excess nutes and re feeding with a much lower strength balanced complete nute. The plant is locked out of at least calcium now.

when you are feeding regularly and see so much deficiency up top its nute stress.
Click to expand...
+1
 
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Wolters_88

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#34
Ok, My plants are in 5 gallon pots. I put 5 gallons through each pot with 20ml of GH floraclean. The water was ph’ed to 5.8 since I’m in coco. The directions say to just start watering like normal after this. So tomorrow I will go back to my nute schedule. Guess I got scared and adding more calmag actually created the calcium deficiency. Didn’t know that was a thing. Though a deficiency would need more of what it’s not taking up. How will I know I’m back to ok?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#35
Wolters_88 said:
Ok, My plants are in 5 gallon pots. I put 5 gallons through each pot with 20ml of GH floraclean. The water was ph’ed to 5.8 since I’m in coco. The directions say to just start watering like normal after this. So tomorrow I will go back to my nute schedule. Guess I got scared and adding more calmag actually created the calcium deficiency. Didn’t know that was a thing. Though a deficiency would need more of what it’s not taking up. How will I know I’m back to ok?
Click to expand...


You get an idea by measuring the runoff ppm’s. I like to keep them between 500 and 750 ppm. 1.0-1.5 ec.
 
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Wolters_88

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#36
MIMedGrower said:
You get an idea by measuring the runoff ppm’s. I like to keep them between 500 and 750 ppm. 1.0-1.5 ec.
Click to expand...
So just normal nutes and check the runoff tomorrow?
 
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MIMedGrower

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#37
Wolters_88 said:
So just normal nutes and check the runoff tomorrow?
Click to expand...


i would lower the strength of the nutes.
 
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Wolters_88

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#38
MIMedGrower said:
i would lower the strength of the nutes.
Click to expand...
TDS of my water by itself is 273.
 

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Wolters_88

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#39
Flushed and did what you all said and it only seems to be getting worse?
 
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Dramadon3151

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#40
Wolters_88 said:
So they are taking a turn for the worst. I don’t know what to do now.
Click to expand...
Whats the environment like during lights out? Any chance yhe rh% could be higher and temps lower? Ive seen this cause similar issues. The obvious culprit would be calmag, if so have u tried switching to mag sulphur during flower instead or calmag? Using a slow release soil amendment for the calcium overall? Pulverized shell or epsom salts...both in The soil mix to start with then doi g the calmag during veg and mag sulphur during flower. Thats what i do with autos and things are good.
 
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Replies 150
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Started Dec 5, 2020
Latest post Dec 21, 2020
Starter Wolters_88
Forum Coco Coir

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