DGP

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I can't draw turtles so here is a scribbly drawing of why light patterns matter. Last 3 cycles I had almost no larf (popcorn buds) because even the smallish buds in the lower canopy swelled up to full maturity and were quite usable. the reason: Diversity of angle, light that can get to the lower buds. I trim everything out under the net but you often have lower buds that are shadowed by leaves and flowers above and the light sources being spread out will allow for a lot of that high angle light to sneak in under the other leaves.

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i was referencing the prior post,maybe when he does the light drawing he can draw you some turtles :happy:
Ah I meant nothing by it Six ;) just some nonsense to keep the thread going... if you haven't seen it, look up the, "I like turtles kid". It has become one of my life quotes.
 
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I was accepted into a test program they are running, Has anyone used them or have any feedback at all before I go all in. Thanks
My experience with the CLW 550;
Higher blue levels in veg promote explosive root growth and short tight nodes.
High red/ low blue= fluffy OD type flower.
Full on( r99 w99 b99) is actually a 80/20 red/blue . Dense frosty flower is produced with this setting. When used for at least 6 weeks.
Pre-flower I run a very low blue for 2 weeks before full power to try to loosen them up before they fill in.
Else veg-full makes rock hard nugs.
The controller learning curve is steep, and rewarding.
45N
 
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I can't draw turtles so here is a scribbly drawing of why light patterns matter. Last 3 cycles I had almost no larf (popcorn buds) because even the smallish buds in the lower canopy swelled up to full maturity and were quite usable. the reason: Diversity of angle, light that can get to the lower buds. I trim everything out under the net but you often have lower buds that are shadowed by leaves and flowers above and the light sources being spread out will allow for a lot of that high angle light to sneak in under the other leaves.

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I don't really understand what you are getting at with the drawings. Are we assuming that they are the same amount of light? The second drawing has much more light that is hitting the walls and being lost most likely and at least severly weakened along with much less u/mol at center. I really don't want more larf but I want a filled canopy with everything the light touches to be smoked and getting hit with high u/mol where its needed to ensure the canopy is full and there is not much larf.

Larf IMO depends on strain and how much stretch occurred but to be perfectly honest it all goes into my worm bin or becomes reveg. I have no need for larf as it is considerable weaker.
 
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I see several problems with this light:

1. Spectrum is way blurple, very low CRI (color rendition Index)
2. From an optical standpoint there is no way an LED light source that is only 18" square can evenly distribute light over a 4X4 flower area. They put them in small boxes cause its cheap and easy to ship. However, any serious fixture has the LEDs spread over the entire grow footprint like typical COBs are setup or like the Spyder X which has the LED strip lights.
3. It supposedly is 40% more efficient (this seems like a big stretch). Not sure what parameters they used but 40% is hard to believe. The spec says it uses 0-800 watts (true out of the wall power) so at full power is it really 1120 watts of effective light? Not buying it. Their description says it makes as much light as a 1,000 watt HID and is 40% more efficient, which means the most it should draw from the wall is 600 watts....something doesn't add up.
4. Price. $1799 for a light that has such poor spectrum and coverage.

Dee
Im using 2 550's and I love rhem. If you have the controler you have a completely different light. I can control my color spectrum i can have sunrise and sunset. It really changes the game.
 
I currently use 2 of the solar system 550's their UVB and their Far Red . I love the 550's and UVB but feel they missed the Mark on the Far Red ligh. The 550 and the 1100 are pretty amazing lights when used with the "Timer-Spectrum control." Whoever would get to test one of these lights should jump at it.
 
I'm using a pair of 550s and a 275 over a 3'x10' footprint. All my lights are on a light rail mover so they move from one end to the other kinda like a train.
Currently I have 5 custom programs for various stages.
Playing with higher reds in veg programs beat out a T5HO veg light of equal power output in root production comparisons by wide margins. My t5 fixture has been collecting dust since. And yeah it does seem that dropping red for more blue late in flower makes the terps a bit louder and colas a bit greasier than keeping all color at max power.
Plant production and quality is solid for me. Good nuggetry from head to toe. Excellent arm size main colas. My finished plants are usually 3'-4' tall x 2'-3'wide typically growing indicas or hybrids.

I got into these lights due to previous experience with CLW solarstorm series. I trusted them to deliver results I wanted and custom spectrums was very interesting to me. They're spendy but probably one of the more affordable programmable lights and there's usually a sale on them somewhere. The first 550 I bought did so well I bought another and then the 275 to complete the room.
One thing I really like is the small fixture size and using more small lights rather than one large light. This really helps when growing several different strains finishing at different heights.
 
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Cail LightWorks - great light when using the "spectrum Control" here is one way: last 4 days just use the "blue" spectrum for increased terpene & essential oils production. expensive light upthere like Kind Led's/Black Dog Led's Does the expense out weigh the returns ?? was thinking if them but choose Quantrum Boards !!
 
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