radmobile
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Thanks for the prompt feedback!Safers 3 in 1 pre mixed. Soak every day for three days. Defoliate damaged leaves. Spray every 4 days there after. If you correct the condition causing the PM like low overnight temps. Stagnant air . Etc. Then it might cure it. However. PM is usually unstoppable. And the plant is weak to it. You can use a UV flashlight to see where you have it the most.
Now. Are you able to have the dwelling unoccupied for a good 12 hours and have no neighbour's close by? It's either the building or set up or the genetics. There's a method for sterilizing you basement thats pretty aggressive. But should work.
I have used the PB and Milk combo and it works. I’ve use neem as a leaf protectant and all of these work well in Veg. I do not want to spray my buds with any of these.This should be done as a preventative but heres my go to...
Green Cure mixed with Neem both organic solutions......GCure is a Fungicide Surfactant soap(Potassium Bicarbonate also a Organic beneficial)...add it to warm water shake till you have plenty of suds...Add a good amount of Neem which the soap will help to distribute properly...
shake well to emulsify and cover plant and surface of medium...the room..the floor and Lower your Humidity and make it More Dry in the enviro...PM wants moist dark cool conditions...
dont help it thrive..Plus if you already have it...its more of a challenge to get completely rid of it...power to it
FOE20
ahhh.....Im with that...didnt realize you were that far in....ya thats a tricky one....but....2 ways around it....1 no neem just use the soap....let it dry off......wash plant down lightly if needed...You dont want more Moisture but your just usinmg it fast as possible....you can do it without hitting budsites...you have to be careful...Foliage only...PM attacks leaves and will rest on stalks and shoots..It wont effect buds till its way past fighting...I have used the PB and Milk combo and it works. I’ve use neem as a leaf protectant and all of these work well in Veg. I do not want to spray my buds with any of these.
It ruins the buds completely. Maybe after I get through this flower I can try more than just bleach. In the meantime….I want something that’s not going to torch the pistils and kill the quality
Great stuff! Are you suggesting I spray with the PB (trying to avoid buds) and then soak/rinse? Will this keep the buds from burning out?ahhh.....Im with that...didnt realize you were that far in....ya thats a tricky one....but....2 ways around it....1 no neem just use the soap....let it dry off......wash plant down lightly if needed...You dont want more Moisture but your just usinmg it fast as possible....you can do it without hitting budsites...you have to be careful...Foliage only...PM attacks leaves and will rest on stalks and shoots..It wont effect buds till its way past fighting...
So I totally get where your coming from but it is doable....but also dont want to lead you down a bad path so follow your gut..
the lower humidity is a must tho ime....least till your past the point of sweating it...hope it help and power to it
FOE20
What are your night time humidity settings? I hear it’s good to get them down around 40? I’m somewhere up near 55.Some cultivars are more susceptible than others, but I have found that the environmental control of air movement and humidity to be the answer.
Most people do not adequately remove humidity at night. When the lights go off, humidity goes way up typically. If you don't remove it fast it can get to 100% in a sealed tent pretty quick. Lights out and spiking RH are inviting PM.
This is from my SensorPush right now. It is a 4x8 and I had to upgrade to a 70Liter Dehuy to keep from spiking to well over 80% when the lights go out. I pull a total of over 10 gallons a day when in full tree flower mode out of the air. The little 30L I had in there simply would not ever catch up.
View attachment 1167314
The bigger the plants, the more respiration, the worse it is.
Removing lower leaves to minimize that and to allow for more air flow helps too.
Bottom line is I hate putting stuff on my plants, even if it says it is organic. But I have found that if you control the environment the PM problem is virtually non-existent.
Right on. Thanks for the tip. How do you handle outdoor pm?Been in tough battles before. At some point it’s not worth putting certain stuff on them. Never had luck with the high pH stuff like greencure. Had better luck with lost coast therapy.
But I hear Regalia by Marrone Bio Innovations is worth a look from an outdoor dude. It’s 0 residue so supposed to pass testing too.
Yes ..exactly..........and not to contradict other comments but PM is spore that feeds on the Plant...not the buds until its waaaaay past fixing...Great stuff! Are you suggesting I spray with the PB (trying to avoid buds) and then soak/rinse? Will this keep the buds from burning out?
Some cultivars are more susceptible than others, but I have found that the environmental control of air movement and humidity to be the answer.
Most people do not adequately remove humidity at night. When the lights go off, humidity goes way up typically. If you don't remove it fast it can get to 100% in a sealed tent pretty quick. Lights out and spiking RH are inviting PM.
This is from my SensorPush right now. It is a 4x8 and I had to upgrade to a 70Liter Dehuy to keep from spiking to well over 80% when the lights go out. I pull a total of over 10 gallons a day when in full tree flower mode out of the air. The little 30L I had in there simply would not ever catch up.
View attachment 1167314
The bigger the plants, the more respiration, the worse it is.
Removing lower leaves to minimize that and to allow for more air flow helps too.
Bottom line is I hate putting stuff on my plants, even if it says it is organic. But I have found that if you control the environment the PM problem is virtually non-existent.
Some cultivars are more susceptible than others, but I have found that the environmental control of air movement and humidity to be the answer.
Most people do not adequately remove humidity at night. When the lights go off, humidity goes way up typically. If you don't remove it fast it can get to 100% in a sealed tent pretty quick. Lights out and spiking RH are inviting PM.
This is from my SensorPush right now. It is a 4x8 and I had to upgrade to a 70Liter Dehuy to keep from spiking to well over 80% when the lights go out. I pull a total of over 10 gallons a day when in full tree flower mode out of the air. The little 30L I had in there simply would not ever catch up.
View attachment 1167314
The bigger the plants, the more respiration, the worse it is.
Removing lower leaves to minimize that and to allow for more air flow helps too.
Bottom line is I hate putting stuff on my plants, even if it says it is organic. But I have found that if you control the environment the PM problem is virtually non-existent.
I agree with the last part Kanzeon, however water is the major x factor IMO, micro-organisms require sufficient water to be active. Lack of water might not kill them, but it will create optimal conditions for encouraging dormancy and arresting (microbial) growth.This. Decreasing humidity all the time won't necessarily help, but keeping plants in VPD will. PM isn't just caused by moisture, it's caused by fluctuations in the temperature and humidity outside of proper VPD.
My flower room is at 60% humidity right now and I haven't seen PM in years. Humidity isn't the enemy with PM (or botrytis), an improper balance of humidity/temperature/airflow is.
The best preventative is proper VPD. The best treatment is micronized sulfur, sprayed regularly.
I have to add here that we are unable to control the environment to any real degree. So we use it to our advantage. We know that plants thrive outside here, so we mimic it as best we can with open tents and enough fans to re-create the trades inside. (15-20 mph breeze we usually have.) We have had zero issues with PM or bud rot even though it is insanely humid often.I agree with the last part Kanzeon, however water is the major x factor IMO, micro-organisms require sufficient water to be active. Lack of water might not kill them, but it will create optimal conditions for encouraging dormancy and arresting (microbial) growth.
Temperature, humidity, air movement and osmotic concentration are among the regulatory factors.
equilibrium vapor pressure is defined as the pressure exerted by a vapor in thermodynamic equilibrium with its condensed phases (solid or liquid) at a given temperature. The equilibrium vapor pressure is an indication of a liquid's evaporation rate. It relates to the tendency of particles to escape from the liquid (or a solid). ie. Even tiny differences in the plant's (body) temp, and the exterior (air) temp's come into play here.
No question proper VDP plays a very major role in all of this, not only inhibition, but also in promoting optimal conditions for the plants to mount an efficient stress response, resulting in optimized metabolic pathway.
Bottom line, the plant needs to be in that proper humidification zone, not too high, not too low. In a targeted range. When temperature, humidity controls go out the window, it makes this ever more problematic. In an outdoor setting, it seems to me that potentially air movement (fans) and osmotic concentrations (foliar) are regulating factors that can be potentially harnessed here, as we no longer control temperature, nor humidity.
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