Calling all PM experts. How do you deal?

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shaganja

shaganja

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This is because 99% of all the breeding work in the West has been done indoors for generations thanks to prohibition and, lately, misconceptions. Humboldt strains were popular because they were often selected for outdoor or greenhouse growing, where humidity levels (among other things) are often not optimal. Growers with imperfect conditions would actually have successful harvests.

Perhaps we should demand that our Cannabis breeders produce strains that are better adapted to sub-optimal conditions? The high-input-->high-output model is the race to the bottom. Surely we haven't lost all the really good genetics yet?
Live in u.p. of michigan. Humid, and cold, and short summer. Have been working on strains that can thrive in our shitty conditions. I like using north cali strains, oregon strains, and canadian strains, and even some holland outdoor. Thier climate is shitty like oregon, michigan, maine also.
 
radmobile

radmobile

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Live in u.p. of michigan. Humid, and cold, and short summer. Have been working on strains that can thrive in our shitty conditions. I like using north cali strains, oregon strains, and canadian strains, and even some holland outdoor. Thier climate is shitty like oregon, michigan, maine also.
Shaganja - could you give me a few examples of strains that you use that are better resistant to PM?
 
Kraken.headz

Kraken.headz

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Sealing up your indoor space will be a huge help, if you're willing to go that route. Otherwise, adequate filtration of the intake will be crucial. I'd want merv-13 or better.
Chlorine dioxide is an incredible disinfectant, but can be tricky (and dangerous) to use. What makes it so great is that it's able to disinfect at incredibly low concentrations, so the gas created from the reaction is able to reach hard to access places with the death touch. Prokure and others make pre measured packets that you just put in water, and it begins to create the gas. It's something you would want to do in between crops, and at a time when you can afford to be out of there for 8+ hours.
Multiple Clo2 treatments, eliminating infected mothers, and heavily filtered pressurized gardens is how I was able to beat it after losing my ass for 2 straight years
 
Santa.ClausHOHOHO

Santa.ClausHOHOHO

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Where can Dr
I use, as a preventative spray, almost daily:
Dr. Frankenstein’s “It’s Alive” category - bio-animation spray. Bio-stimulant/Fungicide/Insecticide/Surfactant

Advanced Colloidal Micelles Nano-technology Insecticide and Fungicide uses USP grade oil, plant extracts, and organic acid mixed into colloidal micelles (supra-molecular surfactants). These micelles attract large particles using encapsulation. This encapsulation covers, maintains plant surface efficacy long-term, while increasing general plant health and BRIX score.

Pathogen removal - Removes mold and mildew by cleaning the plant and scrubbing it. Creating a slick surface that it cannot adhere. It will also destroy pathogens creating a clean plant surface. All this while scrubbing but not affecting THC

Some of the by-products are
Insect Control - Kills sap-sucking insects on several different levels: dissolves the exoskeleton, blocks digest enzyme production, and eliminates ability to digest the plant. These enzymes do not harm beneficial insects, so it can be used alongside beneficial treatments.

Bio Stimulant- healthier, thriving plants increasing systematic nutrient uptake. The micelles attach to fatty acids needed to process soluble and insoluble nutrients directly to the phloem and xylem of the plant, where it can increase overall plant health. contribute to foliar growth and enhance ripening.

Uses: For use on mold on cannabis or food grade crops grown outdoors, or inside, to controlling insects and rinsing residues...nothing worse than having any alternative remedies taining your bud and leaving aftertaste. I actually think this stuff makes my buds taste better

Controls the following Pathogens and Insects: Broad Mites, Russet Mites, Spider Mites, Aphids, Thrips, White Flies, Botrytis, Leafhoppers, Powered Mildew, Fusarium, Wilt, Downy Mildew, and other molds / mildews.

It can be used all the way to and including HARVESTING / DRYING stages
where can Frankenstein be purchased ? trouble finding in on line ?
 
FOE20

FOE20

Maestro Loco
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I remember when PM came across the country in a wave and we saw in Lawns first...Soon after ppl were blaming each other for passing PM....
This isnt something that is only Canna related...Plus its prob in your front yard already...
But if you guys are expecting breeders to breed some kinda super strain that is naturally PM resistant?.....well then your quite the optimist...
To start heres a basic botany formula 50% Genetics + 50% Enviro = 100% Expression....
So yes we can breed toward more stability and possible resistance but it doesnt matter when the variety, lets say a High Planes Desert arid loving mixed variety is grown in a sub tropical or very Humid and Cool region...
You really think a Breeder has any control over that?....,,,,,You beat PM by staying ahead of it...Plenty of Air circulation, Dont OVER WATER and leave things fuking Saturated and then wonder why you have Molds and Fungus, Bacti etc everywhere...Keeping RH below 50% in mid-late Bloom...and common sense...clean your room between crops...ez nuff
FOE20
 
Kanzeon

Kanzeon

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But if you guys are expecting breeders to breed some kinda super strain that is naturally PM resistant?.....well then your quite the optimist...
FOE20

Mandelbrot bred Royal Kush specifically to be mold and mildew resistant. Some genetics are more susceptible to botrytis or PM than others, based on things like bud structure and spacing, so it follows that genetic resistances can be selected for like any other trait.
 
FOE20

FOE20

Maestro Loco
Supporter
430
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Mandelbrot bred Royal Kush specifically to be mold and mildew resistant. Some genetics are more susceptible to botrytis or PM than others, based on things like bud structure and spacing, so it follows that genetic resistances can be selected for like any other trait.
I get that bradda but your also talking about expression which can be dictated by enviro,(like bud structure and spacing which can change based on the envrio), and yes its commom knowledge that some varieties are more resistent.....wont matter when its in a high PM zone is what I was implying...To keep it simple...Grow PNW varieties if looking to avoid PM as trheir acclimated to those types of conditions and issues..
But if a Breeder claims to have bred PM resistance into a line?...Well hell I did to....heh.....
But Im not looking to argue these poiints..my post was rhetorical bradda cause its one of my professions...I just gave input on how to manage it in gen....its casual
FOE20
 
radmobile

radmobile

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Exactly, tunneling air to create a choke point, so that your getting increased air flows. It's a brilliant strategy no doubt. I see this all the time standing among the tall buildings in downtown Seattle, especially around the corners. Your essentially increasing the evaporation off the surface of the plant by targeting the air flow.


Warm air can hold more water vapor than cold air. When warm, humid air is cooled, it can’t hold as much water vapor (RH rises), so the excess condenses into liquid water. That’s why cold surfaces “sweat.” Dew point is the temperature that will cause condensation or when the RH is 100%. The solution to condensation (sweating surfaces) is to reduce the relative humidity of the air (which lowers the dew point temperature) or keep surfaces warmer (above dew point).

Simply put, the higher your humidity, the higher should be your air movement. Heating the air (going into the fan) should also help.
When we talk about good air flow, what exactly does that mean? I have fans everywhere but I’m curious if I’m trying to create a vortex of wind around the room, or just constant wind in all directions?.
 
Mrb53

Mrb53

219
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It’s like the worst website ever! And there’s like norjing to indicate you can order anything or a link to order. There’s not site map either. It’s pretty flat.
its is a new work in progress and the link was for product info and sales, not an invite to an not ready for prime time site. You know what happens when you assume? All that was asked for was how to buy it and with that is a full description. No one ever said visit the site...If you think you can do better, you could always put up your own site, learn web programming and development, wordpress, avida and give it a go. Everything starts somewhere and not everyone is a wealth group of self interest developers
 
shaganja

shaganja

1,429
263
Shaganja - could you give me a few examples of strains that you use that are better resistant to PM?
Couldnt say. I dont get pm, so i dont know really. I use uvb, and lots of fans. Ive seen little bits on leaves here and there, but i honestly dont get it, or havent yet. Ive gotten mold, on a few strains, but this was before i installed a drain to my garden. Its a pit garden, and it flooded last year.
 
shaganja

shaganja

1,429
263
Shaganja - could you give me a few examples of strains that you use that are better resistant to PM?
Havent used them yet, but a.m.s. from arjan @greenhouse. ams means Anti. Mold. Strain.
Friesland from canada, or freezeland. Also mold resistant. And cold weather.
Anything from denmark.
 
shaganja

shaganja

1,429
263
I am a fan of the vortex. everything gets moved air, cause its like a tornado. Having them go all over can miss some spots. Did that first year, and got mold on spots that didnt get any air.
 
Mrb53

Mrb53

219
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I am a fan of the vortex. everything gets moved air, cause its like a tornado. Having them go all over can miss some spots. Did that first year, and got mold on spots that didnt get any air.
I built a cage, like a scrog net holder, out of sched 40 pvc. I attached 8 of the 5v pc fans and glued them to the horizontal bars. I have 2 levels, 8 fans in all and I can add another layer buy just inserting another layer. I can twist the bars to aim the fans exactly where I want, positive or negative airflow. I use the top fans as negative pressure, sucking the air upwards...it helps temps by blowing the heat up above the lights. The lower fans keep the space under the canopy nice and breezy. I can turn each fan 360° and it al runs off 2 usb plugs
 
shaganja

shaganja

1,429
263
Havent used them yet, but a.m.s. from arjan @greenhouse. ams means Anti. Mold. Strain.
Friesland from canada, or freezeland. Also mold resistant. And cold weather.
Anything from denmark.
Sorry, not Denmark. I meant Switzerland.
 
PiffinOut

PiffinOut

116
43
I remember when PM came across the country in a wave and we saw in Lawns first...Soon after ppl were blaming each other for passing PM....
This isnt something that is only Canna related...Plus its prob in your front yard already...
But if you guys are expecting breeders to breed some kinda super strain that is naturally PM resistant?.....well then your quite the optimist...
To start heres a basic botany formula 50% Genetics + 50% Enviro = 100% Expression....
So yes we can breed toward more stability and possible resistance but it doesnt matter when the variety, lets say a High Planes Desert arid loving mixed variety is grown in a sub tropical or very Humid and Cool region...
You really think a Breeder has any control over that?....,,,,,You beat PM by staying ahead of it...Plenty of Air circulation, Dont OVER WATER and leave things fuking Saturated and then wonder why you have Molds and Fungus, Bacti etc everywhere...Keeping RH below 50% in mid-late Bloom...and common sense...clean your room between crops...ez nuff
FOE20
id say you are a pessimist. never give up and never surrender. there are methods to fight the plague so long as good men still do studies.

studies have already shown that powdery mildew is found most prevelantly on serrated leaves.

if you can breed nonserrated leaves into your line you are way more likely to have a plant thats powdery mildew resistant.

put that in your pipe and toke it, good sir
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

26,480
638
I skipped all but the first page.... the most important part is prevention. Outdoor you may need to use products.

Indoors (MY opinion only)

It's most certainly an environmental issue.

VPD reduces stress and low humidity can be as bad as high humidity but as @Kanzeon I think was started the fluctuations are idea for infection and spread. Low humidity days and high night are a heaven for PM.

Let me make this absolutely clear so sorry for the caps.

PM DOES OT NEED FREE WATER TO GERMINATE AND LOW HUMIDITY IS A SPORE SPREADING FACTORY.

ok now that's put of the way temp also plays a role. Teml and humidity that fluctuate for hot dry lights on to cool humidity lights out are the FIRST thing to correct.

The SECOND is actually 2.... proper airflow and pruning to reduce microclimates. I CANNOT STREESS THIS ENOUGH. Leaves stacking on eachother and poor airflow THROUGH the plants is a huge issue for both transpiration and plant health but majorly for almost any bacterial or fungal infections. Toss a hygrometer in the middle of the canopy and look for yourself how much higher the humidity is. Much like room temps are used by many growers when it's the leaf temps that truly matter, humidity matters at the leaf within a few millimeters and it doesn't matter if your room is at the proper humidity when around the leaves are high.

There is a point at lights out where the temperature drops fast because no heat is being produced by the lights. Most growers don't realize how big this impact is in terms of humidity. And it can be so much that your exhaust fans and dehumidifier cannot catch up for several hours. If this is the case fix it.

Ok I'll stop my ranting now
 
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