Calling Out The Organic Growing Machines

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oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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@oldskol4evr has about 15 gallons of BIMs. Lol
hell i got FPJ about 5 days in right now going,,as usal to damn much,gonna windup with about 2 gal of it,used tomato plants and carrot greens for the plants,these damn jars of LAB need freaking feed,they keep popping with this screwed up weather,got 4 jars of it left,hahahah i know measurment for smaller quanity next time,lmao
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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313
thats what i was thinking,far as the shrink wrap,ive only seen it up to about 1/2 round,im sure it comes in lager sizes,i just get mine from parts house,if i make a connection on any wire,i put that wrap on it to moisture from ever getting to the link,if you dig,,now with the boer worms,ive noticed the wasp stings the stem right around when it gets about 1/4 in round,just as the center is opening up for uptake,once the stem gets about 1/2 round it starts turning hard and more like a limb at that point
Hell i might hinge some water pipe and use that
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
I use it a lot, carbon in various forms has been a priority for me, The NOG regime has a carbon tea as one component that smells great. Carbon is important to some extent as well, we are all carbon based and need it. Calcium is important, virtually every other bottle in the NOG lineup has some calcium, they place a high priority on calcium. Their biggest seller, Herculean Harvest has all the calcium in liquid form you really need, but I haven't seen any problems with all that I add in addition to the Full NOG regimine and soil, but their PH up has a higher concentration and comes in handy when messing with the ph which I have learned can range from 5.4 to 7.0 depending on the micros that you want to give the plant at each feeding. NOG has a chart that's easy to read and pinpoints the PH and micros that allow it to pass to the plant. With the NOG regime it relies on your experience to notice the signs of any deficiency and adjust the ph to get the most to the plant on next watering.

So I stop with the Biochar at the worm phase and AACT, never noticed any benefit from putting it on the top of a plant unless your pots are full of worms, worms that passed the sieve as eggs or really small. You can always tell the pots with the most or least worms by the way the top of the soil takes on water without passing through to directly to the tray. I try to let the worm castings pass the biochar to the plant at the time of planting, just have to be careful to keep the super soil porous enough to let water pass through, from there on out I will put it in every other AACT. From what I have read aerating it will bring lots of benes and my tea is full of benes, I throw the kitchen sink in my mesh bag suspended above the bubble snake.

gives a lot of Calcium, I've not seen a sign of calcium deficiencies since using NOG

I have a worm farm that I have built up to 12 bins, I've got about 100+ lbs (3 large bins) of it stockpiled. Try to put a diversity of organic amendments in my worm bins, Compost (a perpetual compost in a 10g pail. where my coffee grinds, veggies, MY own EM2 and EM3, Biochar as well as a host of other biodegradables. Also spread some on top of the bins, the worms do the mixing. That rounds out all the micros spread some on the top at the start of a new tray. Azomite in copious quantities, SEA-90 and Roots Elemental (powdered Calcium that seems best when added to the worm bins and in the soil mix. Lots of various noso (kelp) from different sources seems to be the best amendment. I have a recipe I follow when I set up a new bin. I can post it, but I am not sure anyone is interested. There were 20+ amendments I tracked when making a batch of amendments for the bins so I can basically control the temperature (winter I put more and summer a lot less). The amendments have some nutes as well which will heat the soil, but have to be careful, I've lost a lot of worms adding too much in the summer. In the hottest times of the year I put a small amount in every week so the tray gets a standard amount over the 6 months it takes before the castings are ready and they have so many bene's in there, it gets watered in until I start to see a little leaking out, at which point I stop. Don't want to loose any of the benefits of the castings until it's been watered a few times at each transplant.

Read that plants like to be transplanted a lot as opposed to being stuck in a 5g pail and left there through harvest. I start with a .3g airpot (the real ones, not the crappy rip offs on amazon), move to 1g air pots, 2g airpots, 3-4g is usually where I stop, sometimes 2g, but I have every size, just a few of the 5g and 7g, expensive and not needed. All the airpots are expensive, but well worth the investment as opposed to bags. Just can't let them dry out, it's a pain to get the soil saturated unless I literally dip the whole pot in the nutrient and let it soak it up, usually takes on 2x the water than top watering. So I alternate from soak to top water, which is fine, the pots will take in water when the soil is moist a lot better.


Anyone interested in some castings I make, send a message. a 1 gal bag seems to hold a kilo, just about 2.2lbs, I sell it that way, if you want a lot I will put it in the appropriate size container. I been getting $20 off Craigslist per kilo, but I would be happy to sell it for $15 for anyone on the site and discounts for larger purchases (These go a lot further than what you may be buying and will have worms in them as well as eggs that if you don't let the pot dry completely, will become part of the Rhizosphere). Nothing better than moist living castings that will turn the water black the second you put the media bag in the bucket, before adding air. You can put it in a container and catch the runoff to get it in liquid form. Add a little carbs and you can let sit in fridge for a while. Castings work great as a deterrent to insects. I increase that by adding Neem seed meal (DTE) to my amendments. Thinking of trying the Neem cakes I am seeing more of lately.

Anyone been to a feed store lately? I recently saw they were selling Fermented Alfalfa, never seen before, but I have been adding it to my compost for a year or so now, I believe it has a lot of probiotics (I associate fermentation with probiotics and EM's as bene's that are passed to the castings and the soil. You can use them to get your compost started as well, seems the benes will work as an organic compost accelerant.
i dont even think feed stores exsit any more,i just went into the local and they didnt even have barley,or gypsum,they got nothing i want there,when i moved to the city,that when i been tinkering around with KNF methods for my salad bar ,lmao but i seen in you other comment about the japanese,i cannot remeber the video i watched name,but these cats were growing rice with EM in a flooded out and salted rice fields beside the ocean,taking garbe from your house and composting it to usable fertilizers,cool shit,,but so now i got to bite i guess,i have no idea what hell NOG is,lol probally do but the abreviatiion doesnt come to a stoned mind,hgahaha
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
I use it a lot, carbon in various forms has been a priority for me, The NOG regime has a carbon tea as one component that smells great. Carbon is important to some extent as well, we are all carbon based and need it. Calcium is important, virtually every other bottle in the NOG lineup has some calcium, they place a high priority on calcium. Their biggest seller, Herculean Harvest has all the calcium in liquid form you really need, but I haven't seen any problems with all that I add in addition to the Full NOG regimine and soil, but their PH up has a higher concentration and comes in handy when messing with the ph which I have learned can range from 5.4 to 7.0 depending on the micros that you want to give the plant at each feeding. NOG has a chart that's easy to read and pinpoints the PH and micros that allow it to pass to the plant. With the NOG regime it relies on your experience to notice the signs of any deficiency and adjust the ph to get the most to the plant on next watering.

So I stop with the Biochar at the worm phase and AACT, never noticed any benefit from putting it on the top of a plant unless your pots are full of worms, worms that passed the sieve as eggs or really small. You can always tell the pots with the most or least worms by the way the top of the soil takes on water without passing through to directly to the tray. I try to let the worm castings pass the biochar to the plant at the time of planting, just have to be careful to keep the super soil porous enough to let water pass through, from there on out I will put it in every other AACT. From what I have read aerating it will bring lots of benes and my tea is full of benes, I throw the kitchen sink in my mesh bag suspended above the bubble snake.

gives a lot of Calcium, I've not seen a sign of calcium deficiencies since using NOG

I have a worm farm that I have built up to 12 bins, I've got about 100+ lbs (3 large bins) of it stockpiled. Try to put a diversity of organic amendments in my worm bins, Compost (a perpetual compost in a 10g pail. where my coffee grinds, veggies, MY own EM2 and EM3, Biochar as well as a host of other biodegradables. Also spread some on top of the bins, the worms do the mixing. That rounds out all the micros spread some on the top at the start of a new tray. Azomite in copious quantities, SEA-90 and Roots Elemental (powdered Calcium that seems best when added to the worm bins and in the soil mix. Lots of various noso (kelp) from different sources seems to be the best amendment. I have a recipe I follow when I set up a new bin. I can post it, but I am not sure anyone is interested. There were 20+ amendments I tracked when making a batch of amendments for the bins so I can basically control the temperature (winter I put more and summer a lot less). The amendments have some nutes as well which will heat the soil, but have to be careful, I've lost a lot of worms adding too much in the summer. In the hottest times of the year I put a small amount in every week so the tray gets a standard amount over the 6 months it takes before the castings are ready and they have so many bene's in there, it gets watered in until I start to see a little leaking out, at which point I stop. Don't want to loose any of the benefits of the castings until it's been watered a few times at each transplant.

Read that plants like to be transplanted a lot as opposed to being stuck in a 5g pail and left there through harvest. I start with a .3g airpot (the real ones, not the crappy rip offs on amazon), move to 1g air pots, 2g airpots, 3-4g is usually where I stop, sometimes 2g, but I have every size, just a few of the 5g and 7g, expensive and not needed. All the airpots are expensive, but well worth the investment as opposed to bags. Just can't let them dry out, it's a pain to get the soil saturated unless I literally dip the whole pot in the nutrient and let it soak it up, usually takes on 2x the water than top watering. So I alternate from soak to top water, which is fine, the pots will take in water when the soil is moist a lot better.


Anyone interested in some castings I make, send a message. a 1 gal bag seems to hold a kilo, just about 2.2lbs, I sell it that way, if you want a lot I will put it in the appropriate size container. I been getting $20 off Craigslist per kilo, but I would be happy to sell it for $15 for anyone on the site and discounts for larger purchases (These go a lot further than what you may be buying and will have worms in them as well as eggs that if you don't let the pot dry completely, will become part of the Rhizosphere). Nothing better than moist living castings that will turn the water black the second you put the media bag in the bucket, before adding air. You can put it in a container and catch the runoff to get it in liquid form. Add a little carbs and you can let sit in fridge for a while. Castings work great as a deterrent to insects. I increase that by adding Neem seed meal (DTE) to my amendments. Thinking of trying the Neem cakes I am seeing more of lately.

Anyone been to a feed store lately? I recently saw they were selling Fermented Alfalfa, never seen before, but I have been adding it to my compost for a year or so now, I believe it has a lot of probiotics (I associate fermentation with probiotics and EM's as bene's that are passed to the castings and the soil. You can use them to get your compost started as well, seems the benes will work as an organic compost accelerant.
cool, and carbon is key, we are all carbon :-)
There are studies showing adding something like char and mycorrhizae together with a new annual has canceling effects on the protective properties of one or other alone. The study showed how the char favored the growth of the mycorrhizaes over the plant, and the exploding mass of mycos in the soil, ended up taking available nitrogen from the plant, in order to support its growth expansion. So the symbiotic mycos became a pathogen, drawing nitrogen away from the host plant.
since trying to get funding to study things like Mycorrhizae and Bio Char is incredibly biased, the test wasnt long enough to determine for example, if once a critical mass of fungal mass has been reached, the negative impacts might then be reversed and with future massive benefit to any host plant? But certainly in the case of annuals over 4 months, the additions of char with mycos was seen to harm the outcomes of annuals. I am not sure if the study was Virginia tech or something? its on youtube anyway.

Still interesting reading what yo do buddy, very cool
Sauerkraut is a really good source of pro biotics and good for humans to eat, just keep the wash water etc :-)

Cant say if you use a natural planting method, why you would transplant but for sexing, or getting stuff started early inside where seasons are shorter. Personally i find by planting in the tub you want to grow in till harvest, the soil settles better, and the capillaries form without disruption. The biology has more time, but I appreciate in an annual people might say this still isnt sufficient for all biological chain reactions to stabilize so why bother. Its just what i do and no one has too, but i would say try to keep the main primary roots intact to help reduce stress.
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

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313
Yea, I figured it out using this site: http://theunconventionalfarmer.com/recipes/bim/ I know, I strayed, I bet the same info is here and better detailed...

But there are a lot of other resources that you can compare and adopt or not. That's how I was able to finally break the money flow to EM1 and started making EM2 and 3, basically one is photosynthetic and another isn't but does store a lot of energy. I think this stuff is coming from the Alaska oil spill and some research they did on the effectiveness of EM1 to 4. The technology has revealed to us how we can take those diesel eating microbes and tone them down a bit and then the Professor in Japan with the patent on EM1 posted a lot of info that resulted in the numbers and the difference. https://permaculturenews.org/forums...nt-buy-into-making-em4-or-any-other-em.12409/
The internet has been a godsend and even tho i make nutrients, I make them for people that cant access, not so i can take over the world. making your own is how we started, we just has excess and knew it works. Making it, it the best way, it limits the cost to everyone not just personal pockets :-) it is the most resonate if you believe in energy you might not see, this is worth extra :-)
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
i dont even think feed stores exsit any more,i just went into the local and they didnt even have barley,or gypsum,they got nothing i want there,when i moved to the city,that when i been tinkering around with KNF methods for my salad bar ,lmao but i seen in you other comment about the japanese,i cannot remeber the video i watched name,but these cats were growing rice with EM in a flooded out and salted rice fields beside the ocean,taking garbe from your house and composting it to usable fertilizers,cool shit,,but so now i got to bite i guess,i have no idea what hell NOG is,lol probally do but the abreviatiion doesnt come to a stoned mind,hgahaha
the power of well made nutrients
 
mtownshend

mtownshend

25
13
hell i got FPJ about 5 days in right now going,,as usal to damn much,gonna windup with about 2 gal of it,used tomato plants and carrot greens for the plants,these damn jars of LAB need freaking feed,they keep popping with this screwed up weather,got 4 jars of it left,hahahah i know measurment for smaller quanity next time,lmao


Yea, having to take the water you make, multiplying by 10 is never what you expected. Started using a calculator, lol. Try to do 1g batches, multiple from different rinses tho.
I have been putting the curds in my compost, is that Kosher?
Read somewhere it's good, never know sometimes tho.
 
brazel

brazel

2,527
263
Yea, having to take the water you make, multiplying by 10 is never what you expected. Started using a calculator, lol. Try to do 1g batches, multiple from different rinses tho.
I have been putting the curds in my compost, is that Kosher?
Read somewhere it's good, never know sometimes tho.

You can petty much compost anything but if you're growing no till, make your soil the compost instead of having a compost pile
 
mtownshend

mtownshend

25
13
the power of well made nutrients

NOG is just the line of nutrients, Nector For The Gods. Organic, doesn't boost yeild, but tastes the best I have ever had. that stuck Tight nugs, trichs are almost popping looks like, lol. You can add yeild booster type nutrients / additives, as long as it's organic or compatible with organic.
The acronym may be a misinterpretation of the name, "Nector Of the Gods"
Thx for the video, very cool.
 
brazel

brazel

2,527
263
NOG is just the line of nutrients, Nector For The Gods. Organic, doesn't boost yeild, but tastes the best I have ever had. Tight nugs, trichs are almost popping looks like, lol. You can add yeild booster type nutrients / additives, as long as it's organic or compatible with organic.

Thx for the video, very cool.
really!
Bro nog Is bullshit. any yield booster is a gimmick. Bottled organics is a good laugh.

If you truly believe what you said then tell my why it makes tight nug and trichs!?
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
Yea, having to take the water you make, multiplying by 10 is never what you expected. Started using a calculator, lol. Try to do 1g batches, multiple from different rinses tho.
I have been putting the curds in my compost, is that Kosher?
Read somewhere it's good, never know sometimes tho.
i put the curd in my compost too,taste is bland at that point,mama wouldnt try it ,so i did good and chewy,that curd broke down in my pile in about 2 weeks,every 3 weeks or so i put a jar full of LAB on it also,,buddy of mine just about got me talked into wood chips,if you think about it chips are the same as stage 5 humus,,my biggest problem with chips is snakes,there already har enough to spot with all the rocks i live on,worms are impossible to establish to,got what is called a rough snake,looks like a giant earth worm or fiddler worm ,doesnt have the egg sack though,the love worms and i got plenty plenty of them bastards,kill um on my living room floor sometimes,that is after mama beats the shit out of me,hahahah
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
NOG is just the line of nutrients, Nector For The Gods. Organic, doesn't boost yeild, but tastes the best I have ever had. that stuck Tight nugs, trichs are almost popping looks like, lol. You can add yeild booster type nutrients / additives, as long as it's organic or compatible with organic.
The acronym may be a misinterpretation of the name, "Nector Of the Gods"
Thx for the video, very cool.
see told you ive heard of it,,lmao,dont sweat it though organik is always throwing them abrevations at me and dont understand him either,,@sernots,that old ass stoner names all his strains with abrevations,lol shit sometimes he dont even know which one he talking about,lmao
 
Organikz

Organikz

3,562
263
BIM > Beneficial Indigenous Microorganisms

NOG is just the line of nutrients, Nector For The Gods. Organic, doesn't boost yeild, but tastes the best I have ever had. that stuck Tight nugs, trichs are almost popping looks like, lol. You can add yeild booster type nutrients / additives, as long as it's organic or compatible with organic.
The acronym may be a misinterpretation of the name, "Nector Of the Gods"
Thx for the video, very cool.
Carbohydrates is the ticket...NOG is fine until you use it up. I would switch over to coconut water or malted grain with fulvic acid. Hell go molasses if you'd like but i think aloe would give you more than molasses.

Build a soil sells coconut water powder. 1/4 tsp to the gallon. You will notice a huge difference in swells and flavor/potency/aroma etc...Breaking it down to enzymes. I have worms crawling in my soil but that's my issue to deal with haha. Enzymes are the building blocks of DNA.
 
Organikz

Organikz

3,562
263
@oldskol4evr
lmfao look what i found...i just happened to be cruising stickies at GC

A
ACT or AACT- (Actively) Aerated Compost Tea
AFAIK- As Far As I Know

B
BaS- Build A Soil (www.buildasoil.com)
BC- Bio-Char
BHO- Butane Hash Oil
BIM- Beneficial Indigenous Microorganism
BO- Blue Orca
BSF- Black Soldier Fly
BSFL- Black Soldier Fly Larvae
BSM- Blackstrap Molasses
BT- Bacillus Thuringiensis

C
CaCO3- Calcium Carbonate
CBD- Cannabidiol
CBN- Cannabinol
CEC- Cation Exchange Capacity
CFL- Compact Fluorescent Light
CMH- Ceramic Metal Halide
CoM- Coast of Maine (www.coastofmaine.com)
CSA- Community Supported Agriculture
CSPM- Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss
CSPMA- Canadian Sphagnum Peat Moss Association

D
DA- Dynamic Accumulator
DE- Diatomaceous Earth
DtE- Down to Earth

E
EM- Effective Microorganism
EWC- Earthworm Castings

F
FBM- Fish Bone Meal
FIM- Fuck I Missed
FFOF- Fox Farms Ocean Forest
FPE- Fermented Plant Extract
FTW- For The Win; or Free The Weed
FWIW- For What It's Worth

G
GCO- Grasscity Organics
GFBA- Grapefruit Badass
GMO- Genetically Modified Organism
GRD- Glacial Rock Dust

H
HPS- High Pressure Sodium
HTH- Here to Help; or Hope that Helps

I
IAA- Indole-Acetic Acid
IBA- Indole-Butyric Acid
IIRC- If I Recall Correctly
IME- In My Experience
IMHO- In My Humble/Honest Opinion
IMO- In My Opinion
IMO 1-4 - Indigenous Microorganisms (Korean Natural Farming Preparations)
IPM- Integrated Pest Management
IRG- Ice River Gear
IWE- Ice Water Extraction

J
JA- Jasmonic Acid

K
KISS- Keep It Simple Stupid

L
LAB- Lactic Acid Bacteria
LED- Light-Emitting Diode
LITFA- Leave It The Fuck Alone
LPM- Liters Per Minute
LOS- Living Organic Soil
LotR- Lord of the Rings
LST- Low-Stress Training

M
MH- Metal Halide

N
NOP- National Organic Program
NPK- Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium

O
OG- Original Gangster
OM- Organic Matter
OMRI- Organic Materials Review Institute
OSF- Oyster Shell Flour
OTCO- Oregon Tilth Certified Organic

P
PAR- Photosynthetically Active Radiation
PGH- Plant Growth Hormone
PGR- Plant Growth Regulator
PH- Potential Hydrogen
PM- Powdery Mildew
PNSB- Purple Non-Sulfur Bacteria
PNW- Pacific Northwest

Q
QWISO- Quick Wash Isopropyl Alcohol Hash Oil

R
RO- Reverse Osmosis
ROLS- Recycled Organic Living Soil

S
SA- Salicylic Acid
SAR- Systemic Acquired Resistance
SCROG- Screen of Green
SIP- Sub-Irrigated Planter or Self-Irrigated Planter
SoG- Sea of Green
SOM- Soil Organic Matter
SRPÂ- Soft Rock Phosphate
SST- Sprouted Seed Tea
Sul-Po-Mag- Sulfur, Potassium, Magnesium, a.k.a Langbeinite

T
TBH- To Be Honest
TCN- Triacontanol
THC- Tetrahydrocannabinol
TLG- The Logical Gardener
TLO- True Living Organic Soil
TMV- Tobacco Mosaic Virus
TO- The One
TP- Transplant
TwM- Teaming with Microbes
TwN- Teaming with Nutrients

U

V
VAM- Vesicular-Arbuscular Mycorrhizae
VC- Vermicompost
VOE- Voice of Experience

W
WAG- Wild Assed Guess[es]
WWCCD- What Would Clackamas Coot Do?

X

Y
YMMV- Your Mileage May Vary

Z
 
mtownshend

mtownshend

25
13
BIM > Beneficial Indigenous Microorganisms


Carbohydrates is the ticket...NOG is fine until you use it up. I would switch over to coconut water or malted grain with fulvic acid. Hell go molasses if you'd like but i think aloe would give you more than molasses.

Build a soil sells coconut water powder. 1/4 tsp to the gallon. You will notice a huge difference in swells and flavor/potency/aroma etc...Breaking it down to enzymes. I have worms crawling in my soil but that's my issue to deal with haha. Enzymes are the building blocks of DNA.

I have a number of carbs, but I have been using the coconut water and was hoping to grab some aloe, your comment put it at top of list, thanks for the info.
 
brazel

brazel

2,527
263
Never said it boosts yield, reread bro
I was hitting on the different things you said. The period at the end of NOG is bullshit means the end of that statement. The next sentence is separate and it refers to your comment..."You can add yeild booster type nutrients / additives, as long as it's organic or compatible with organic"

nog yucca is their only product I'd consider but that being said I have much better sources.
Cheers
 
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brazel

brazel

2,527
263
@mtownshend not trying to be rude, just giving you a different point of view in case you have a desire to research others thoughts rather than sticking with your understandings. Ya dig? Sometimes you find something better sometimes you'll see why your method is superior but to not research them is not growing, it's being idle
Cheers
 
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