Ph 007
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Quantum PAR meter. Look on Amazon. Less than $200 for a serviceable unit.I'm gonna start ordering some tools to mesure is it PAR or lux and remember now lol
I want to order the tools I need for mesuing how much light your plants are getting off the led and what ever mesument I need to take? To set distance and watt
What this mobile app you can get aswell?
Thanks I'll have a look nowQuantum PAR meter. Look on Amazon. Less than $200 for a serviceable unit.
Quantum Par Meter - High Precision, Rechargeable & Long Standby, Grow Light meter, Indoor Plants meter, Good for Growing droseras and All Indoor Plants… https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WX8D3LB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_797EJVSNHPKV9SXPWMBK
ThanksPhotone if you decide on the app route.
I tried the 3-way moisture/ph/light meter for $10. Works for dim lighting.I'm gonna start ordering some tools to mesure is it PAR or lux and remember now lol
I want to order the tools I need for mesuing how much light your plants are getting off the led and what ever mesument I need to take? To set distance and watt
What this mobile app you can get aswell?
I checked my $157 (at the time) quantum PAR against my neighbor’s expensive Apogee. Mine was within 5 of his at 1000. More than adequate if you don’t want to pop for the Apogee. Which is fine instrumentation no doubt.I tried the 3-way moisture/ph/light meter for $10. Works for dim lighting.
Then I went with a more expensive Lux meter, and .. I just got more confused interpreting it trying to convert to PAR.
FInally I bought an Apogee Quantum Flux MQ-200. Problems solved all the way. Simply turn it on and take a reading with the probe. Adjust light. Done.
Honestly, I wouldn’t waste you’re time with the 10$ meters…the phone apps are probably better lolThanks guys i see if I can find a cheap one later for about 10 dollars sound good lol,
I not tied the app yet lights been off I'll check later , quite excited to be honest to try a new toy out lol
OKI just tried the app, I see number but they mean nothing to me lol\
I see numbers, but they mean nothing to me!My lights at the monent are about 70cm away and dimmed down to 150w, they go to 240w max or about their
Ok they said 50-70cmway so just stuck with that, reason im down to 150w is because I need quite a bit of electric to warm my tent so dimmed them down to save,OK
I see numbers, but they mean nothing to me!
Ultimately you are trying to estimate PAR values.
You want PAR values under 400 for seedlings, and gradually increase to 800 or so at maximum for late flower and all of bloom. Values about 800 are mostly wasted unless pumping in additional CO2. PAR values over 1000 are likely (?) to cause problems before flowering, and possibly then. Values over 1500 are almost certain (my opinion) to scorch leaves and buds, resulting in fox tailing, white flowers, leaf damage and reduced yields. There are a number of related conditions that can cause leaves to react more negatively to strong lighting including temperature, humidity, air flow, watering habits and more.
So, if you have a chart from your manufacturer telling you how much PAR over the canopy based on distance, YOU convert that to a PAR reading and give us that, not 'inches from canopy pulling x watts from the wall'. It's just meaningless to us. Better to just say how your leaves are reacting to the current settings.
Ok they said 50-70cmway so just stuck with that, reason im down to 150w is because I need quite a bit of electric to warm my tent so dimmed them down to save,
And also they where 50cm away always but i had what i though might of been light stress in tips guess not dam these readings as important.
Yes, you measure the brightness (PAR) on the plants, and then you can adjust the distance and/or dimmer to achieve the proper lighting.So you mean ignore watt and distance,
Just set distance by par , and this changes by watt I guess so distance will change with more or less watt
Well, that's sort of an issue with LEDs. The strong ones want a lot of space between light and canopy, which of course helps to even the coverage too. But once those plants get too tall on you and start getting to 12 inches from the light (instead of 36), well you start using the dimmer. And while that helps right under the light, it means the corners suffer, and the penetration into the canopy goes down too. I'm at that point now where I'm trying to figure out the maximum amount of PAR I can force on the plants in the center while maintaining an adequate amount at the edges.Abivously to close you loose footprint coverage.
PAR is what you want, but an expensive meter to get it.Do I only use par with led?
Or par , lux and LDI?
Looks like I need to do some reading
What's lux then ? I remember you saying either 40,000 or 4,000 can't remebr I know I was a 4 and a good few 0's lolI use the PAR and VPD to set light height.
I set the strength [%] the light is on according to cycle .
At 100% I can max 750 -800 Par with out losing coverage and still maintaining 3-5 degree leaf surface temp, but it is close .
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