Canna Coco and clones

[Johnnyblaze2010]

What are your preferred methods to preparing coco for clones after they have rooted? Do you flush and precharge before planting? People say to break the buffer of coco by using AN Final Flush (150 ppm) and Cal Mag (150 ppm) and pH to 5.8-6.0. Coco is suppose to be difficult in breaking the pH buffer because of its low CEC (cation exchange capacity) What are your inputs/suggestions?

 

[T1420]

a drop of dishsoap will help saturate the coco,use just a drop then rinse well after saturation has occured

 

[sirsmokealot]

cana coco needs nothing, just stick the clones in a keg cup with some coco, and water with a light dose of nutes-600-800ppms and your good to go

 

[Seamaiden]

Not even Cal-Mag..? I could have sworn that the CEC of coco is high, thusly allowing it to seriously sequester calcium and magnesium, thusly requiring a much higher/more regular dose of Cal-Mag. Maybe I have the concept of cation exchange capacity backwards, though.

In any event, I have only done this once, and I frankly don't know if this is really the best method. I used.. Botanicare CocoGro I think it is. I charged the coco with a tea made with Dr. Earth Organic 4, some hydrolized fish emulsion, guano, worm castings, kelp extract and Cal-Mag (all according to directions for mixing in clean, filtered water). Let it set overnight, drained excess liquid, then planted.

 

[buffbuds]

with Canna coco you are paying for them to strip it of all bad salt content, then pre-buffer it and make sure it is READY TO GO out of the bag, it even has tricaderma fungus and moulds added with a slight food for such (more foods, including humic and folvic acids are present in their nutrient line). Cheaper coirs, like atami b'cuzz, and botanicare's bricks, all have high EC out of the bag, and are "dead", and therefore need flushing, and I used to add myco madness to freshly saturated coco, though I am surprized one would use final phaze??? That seems it would lock out all the nutrients.... maybe it works, I dunno.

With canna, I cannot stress the importance of Rhizzotonic, in non-clorinated water in helping to develope strong roots (and therefore healthy plants and buds later). Spray with a 15ml/gallon solution pHed to 5.8 as often as you can through week 2 of flowering, and add it to your nutrients until your root system is fully developed. Using reverse osmosis water (which strips the chlorine, allowing the fungus and moulds to innoculate the root zone) I usually put my EC right up to 1.8-2.0 and if there is purpling on the stems, I give it pH 6.0-6.2 the first watering (helps uptake more phosphorus and potasium to correct the deficiency that is showing), then 5.6 every subsequent watering until flowering starts.

OR, you can just mix up a batch of non chlorinated water (if you don't have RO system, let the water sit out for at least 20 hours to de-chlorinate it) at 5.8-6.0 pH, with the 15ml/gal rhizotonic, and saturate the medium with that after you've transplanted (water at the time of transplant, with 10-30% run off, it helps settle the coco in it's pots) I personally prefer as much nutrient as possible before it causes lock out, it seems to aid plants in warding off potential infections and infestations. However friends swear by the "no nutrient method", I must say, they have half my sucess rate, and many of their plants need a prolonged veg state to out grow their damage during cloning. I use straight rapid rooters and hormex cloning gel, when they pop roots and the plugs are nearly dry, I saturate them with full strength nutrients for another week of growing in their cubes, to ensure a full and even rooting. FUC I am high

 

[TKGC]

I use the Botanicare 5kg bales, and expand them using 8 gallons (RO water w/ 4ml per gal Calmag).

I add 2-3ml/gal calmag thruout veg ( H&G cocos nutes)

 

[vomitusdk]

p04- has better uptake below 5,5 in inert media .

 

[dudeman]

canna coco should be fine out of the bag. I think canna products need cal-mag depending on water and where you live maybe.