Chiller and a/c routine maintenece

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Chillville

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With a cooling system the goal of course is for it to work years later like it worked when it was installed. Cooling systems need to maintained, here are a few suggestions to keep it running strong.

Indoor air filters need to be changed regularly, most people know that. I recommend for gardens the cheaper high flow filters instead of the high micron, IME they will keep your coil cleaner....unless you are changing out the high micron as soon as it gets dirty. What happens with those is that they get clogged up quickly, as soon as they do unfiltered air starts to leak around the side of the filter making the coil inside the air handler dirty. When this happens you lose efficiency from loss of airflow and less heat exchange happens.

Cleaning the indoor coil inside the air handler can increase the efficiency substantially in an older unit, or one that's been used in a dirty environment. Hopefully you can get to your indoor coil easily to make the job much easier. I use a water hose with a sprayer and it cleans it out quickly but it also makes a mess. Most of the dirty water will go out the condensate drain but some of it always ends up on the floor. With water-cooled air handlers you can actually take the coils out easily and clean them outside the garden, this can be done with an a/c too but you would have to recover the refrigerant to do so, much bigger job. To make it less messy there is other ways to do this. There is a cleaner in a spray can that will help along with brushes made to comb the coils. I’m sure that some a/c techs can probably offer some good tips to do this. Blazer, John? Whichever method be very careful with the fins on the coil, damaging them could cost you BTU’s.

Check to make sure that there are no holes torn in the ducting. Also check for leaky connections to registers and to the air handlers, you could be air conditioning the attic, happens all the time.

Make sure that your condensate drain(s) aren’t clogged, if they are water will back up in the air handler. If they are clogged I’ve used compressed air to gently blow them out. I’m talking about an air compressor with an air blower, not the can of air you use to spray off your keyboard :)

Cleaning the outdoor coil is really important too. Again there are special brushes and cleaning solution designed to do this, and you must be careful with the fins. Spraying the coil with low water pressure will usually remove most of the dust in between the fins and can give you some extra BTU’s if its dirty.

Make sure that the outdoor unit can breathe freely. Trim away overhanging trees and keep the grass short around the unit so that they coils are unobstructed. Always place outdoor units at least 12” away from walls or fences, if you have room for 24” that’s even better. Check to make sure the unit is still sitting level and that its placed on a small concrete slab or something equivalent, basically needs to be off the ground to keep it from rusting around the bottom. Treat for ant around outdoor unit, this can be really important. For some reason ants are sometimes attracted to electrical relays. You can inspect any visible wiring for damage to the outer insulation caused by it rubbing on something or maybe even from animals chewing at it.

It doesn't hurt to use soapy water around the scharder valves on the outdoor unit occasionally. These are the small ports that are used to fill the unit with refrigerant attached to the incoming and outgoing copper lines. They are notorious for leaking and are usually as a backup they have screw on caps that also have their own gaskets. Sometimes both fail and they leak. I can tell you that it doesn’t hurt for a certified tech to throw on some gauges and check the refrigerant levels once a year. For an example my home a/c has been cooling ok but we checked it recently just in case. Unbelievably it was 17 lbs low on refrigerant, which is a lot. It was hard to believe it was even working at all. We found a leak around the schrader valve, we put on some new caps and now its all good. Cooling like a champ now.

Guys did I miss anything? Any tips or tricks from you a/c tech?
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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Wow it was cooling but 17 lbs low on refrigerant. What is the tonnage of the unit? Sounds like a lot of refrigerant.
 
C

Chillville

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I know sounds crazy. Its a 4 ton goodman heat pump, apparently they hold a lot of refrigerant.
 
blazer

blazer

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Must be a very high seer unit to hold that much for a 4 ton!
 
C

Chillville

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Must be a very high seer unit to hold that much for a 4 ton!

Ya you are right, it's a R22 unit that's a few years old and I think paired with the air handler its a 16 or 17 seer.

My electric bill in the middle of this brutal summer was never over $150, so I didn't have to much to complain about even with it low on refrigerant. My house is about 2,400 sq ft and the a/c doesn't run much at all to keep it in the low 70's, in fact it doesn't run enough to keep control of the humidity. I have to run dehus in my house certain parts of the year, that sucks. With that sq footage normally 5 ton units are recommended but with the excessive amount of insulation and radiant barrier I used during construction I decided to go with a 4 ton....should've went with a 3 ton after all.
 
blazer

blazer

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That's the way to do it with good insulation.try turning down blower to a lower speed if haven't tried that yet if the air moves a little slower across that coil it will remove more moisture! higher seer system are so nice but pricey upfront!peace
blazer
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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I know sounds crazy. Its a 4 ton goodman heat pump, apparently they hold a lot of refrigerant.

Be careful if it's a heat pump and it was charged in cooling. Did the tech use the charging chart? If not it could be very well overcharged and you will have problems when running in heat. How long is your line set? The reason why I ask is because either he overcharged the system or over charged you for R22? Most residential systems 5 tons and under don't hold 17 lbs total even high eff units. Just want you to be aware. Nothing worse than needing heat and unit trips on high pressure. Good luck.
 
C

Chillville

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That's the way to do it with good insulation.try turning down blower to a lower speed if haven't tried that yet if the air moves a little slower across that coil it will remove more moisture! higher seer system are so nice but pricey upfront!peace
blazer

LOL, you know I never thought to do that on my own air handler...duh! That's really funny, I knew that the motors had adjustable speeds I just never thought to do it before. What sucks is that its hard to get to and theres a couple feet of insulation piled around it. Oh well that's still better than running a dehu, thanks man
 
C

Chillville

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Be careful if it's a heat pump and it was charged in cooling. Did the tech use the charging chart? If not it could be very well overcharged and you will have problems when running in heat. How long is your line set? The reason why I ask is because either he overcharged the system or over charged you for R22? Most residential systems 5 tons and under don't hold 17 lbs total even high eff units. Just want you to be aware. Nothing worse than needing heat and unit trips on high pressure. Good luck.

It was charged in cooling mode and no he didn't use a charging chart that I'm aware of. I wasn't chraged anything for the R22, had it at the shop and one of our techs came over and put it in. We used guages to set the pressure 20 degrees above ambient. This guy has been doing hvac for a long time but told me right away that he hasn't dealt much with heat pumps. I'll see what I can find on a cooling chart for my unit. Thanks
 
blazer

blazer

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Hey bro 17 lbs does sound like a little much for a 4 ton ecspecially not to notice a difference or lack of cooling.but on my last high seer residential unit I worked on was a 3.5 ton carrier held 13.8 lbs of 410a, check tag on condenser will give u its capacity of r22 in lbs and Oz's or just oz's if unit does not have a chart go by superheat and subcool without that ur guessing that's what I go by,I've always charged in cooling mode only way to get accurate SC and SH readings if charge is right in cooling it will work in heat mode everytime.amount of refrigerant doesent change from a heat pump to cooling only unit of same model only difference really is a reversing valve.u might want some gauges on there when bumping speed but usually if just one speed down don't give probs.
 
C

Chillville

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Hey bro 17 lbs does sound like a little much for a 4 ton ecspecially not to notice a difference or lack of cooling.but on my last high seer residential unit I worked on was a 3.5 ton carrier held 13.8 lbs of 410a, check tag on condenser will give u its capacity of r22 in lbs and Oz's or just oz's if unit does not have a chart go by superheat and subcool without that ur guessing that's what I go by,I've always charged in cooling mode only way to get accurate SC and SH readings if charge is right in cooling it will work in heat mode everytime.amount of refrigerant doesent change from a heat pump to cooling only unit of same model only difference really is a reversing valve.u might want some gauges on there when bumping speed but usually if just one speed down don't give probs.

I'll double check but I'm sure he looked at the capacity, he even called goodman about the proper way to charge it since its a high efficiency model. I should have mentioned that we were measuring superheat and subcooling as he charged it. When charging they usually shoot for 30 degrees above ambient but with subcooling and superheat correct we were only at 20 degrees, I think goodman told him 25, so that was strange too. They were very hesistant to put in that much refrigerant, they were sure that wasn't correct. He actually came out the first time and put in 3lbs and stopped because he thought it shouldn't even be that low considering that it was already cooling. They did some homework on the unit and came back to put the rest in.

The unit has been plaqued with problems although it has always run properly. The switching valve gets stuck sometimes and everytime it comes on it makes a terrible noise inside the house. We looked at service bulletins for the unit and they say it needs a muffler, so were ordered on of those and a new switching valve, just waiting on it to cool off here before we tear in to it. Had to change out the relay too, occasionally buzzed in the winter time which got annoying. Good things I have friends in the biz or this thing would have cost me a fortune to maintain.
 
blazer

blazer

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Ya the 20 above ambient is probably good in my experience with the higher seer units lower seer units its 30 above that is ballpark then do superheat subcool like u were as far as probs its a Goodman I've seen a lot of issues with that brand its a lesser brand(imho) where im at. try compressor blanket instead of muffler lot cheaper and easier.as far as brands I would go with a trane,rheem,carrier,lennox
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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It was charged in cooling mode and no he didn't use a charging chart that I'm aware of. I wasn't chraged anything for the R22, had it at the shop and one of our techs came over and put it in. We used guages to set the pressure 20 degrees above ambient. This guy has been doing hvac for a long time but told me right away that he hasn't dealt much with heat pumps. I'll see what I can find on a cooling chart for my unit. Thanks

Older R22 systems could hold more R22 in cooling than heating because condenser is bigger than indoor coil. When in heat the outdoor coil is evap and indoor coil is condenser. Charging chart should be on inside of electrical panel of outdoor unit.
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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Ya the 20 above ambient is probably good in my experience with the higher seer units lower seer units its 30 above that is ballpark then do superheat subcool like u were as far as probs its a Goodman I've seen a lot of issues with that brand its a lesser brand(imho) where im at. try compressor blanket instead of muffler lot cheaper and easier.as far as brands I would go with a trane,rheem,carrier,lennox

Goodman was junk until about 5 yrs ago. They have done much better since then. All brands have some problems (sometimes it is price). Heat pumps have much more problems and shorter life than a/c only units.
 
blazer

blazer

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Goodman was junk until about 5 yrs ago. They have done much better since then. All brands have some problems (sometimes it is price). Heat pumps have much more problems and shorter life than a/c only units.

Ya I've been out of residential a bit not trying to knock on it.hope it didnt come out like that just not good experiences with Goodman in the past. I know they bumped there warranty up to 10 yrs which is good. that was last I saw at least a year ago! peace
Blazer
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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Ya I've been out of residential a bit not trying to knock on it.hope it didnt come out like that just not good experiences with Goodman in the past. I know they bumped there warranty up to 10 yrs which is good. that was last I saw at least a year ago! peace
Blazer

It doesn't matter if you are knocking. They earned that rep but have come a long way towards repairing their image. Still got a ways to go.
 
C

Chillville

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Older R22 systems could hold more R22 in cooling than heating because condenser is bigger than indoor coil. When in heat the outdoor coil is evap and indoor coil is condenser. Charging chart should be on inside of electrical panel of outdoor unit.

There was no charing chart on the unit, we looked it over well before we started for anything to help.

I agree, years ago Goodman units were junky and were considered a low end brand. They use good parts now on the units and are usually dependable but I think that I got a lemon. I don't know if I even mentioned that the switching valve was sticking last winter and may need to be changed. Would it being low on refrigerant cause that? Seems possible.

The noise my unit makes isn't from the compressor, its a noise that travels down the copper line. All high efficiency goodmans come with a compressor blanket, the outdoor unit is quite. Its only on startup for about 2 seconds.
 
J

Jalisco Kid

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Goodmans are so noisy a client had me take 2 5 ton units and cut them up with a sawsall so I could fit them into a dumpster. 6 months old. Damn shame I could not get a truck that day.

As this was titled for maintenance I have my chillers set up so I can run my system backwards to help clean up the coils every cycle. JK
 
CannabisJohn

CannabisJohn

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113
There was no charing chart on the unit, we looked it over well before we started for anything to help.

I agree, years ago Goodman units were junky and were considered a low end brand. They use good parts now on the units and are usually dependable but I think that I got a lemon. I don't know if I even mentioned that the switching valve was sticking last winter and may need to be changed. Would it being low on refrigerant cause that? Seems possible.

The noise my unit makes isn't from the compressor, its a noise that travels down the copper line. All high efficiency goodmans come with a compressor blanket, the outdoor unit is quite. Its only on startup for about 2 seconds.

The valve sticking could be caused by low R22 because pressure is what actually switches valve position when solenoid is de-energized.
 
blazer

blazer

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The noise my unit makes isn't from the compressor, its a noise that travels down the copper line. All high efficiency goodmans come with a compressor blanket, the outdoor unit is quite. Its only on startup for about 2 seconds.[/QUOTE]

Possibly try a start cap if It don't have one already!
 

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