Clawing during flower in coco

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SofaKingHigh

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I’m growing in 10 gal fabric pots with coco perlite mix. I’m about to start week 7 of flowering and I’m getting yellowing/ burnt edges around the margins and a claw on the top half of the plants. It started at the end of week 5 of flower, Along with brown spots on fan leaves closest to the light. I believe I’m having a ph problem causing maybe a ca lockout. My ph in is 5.8-6.0 and runoff ph is 4.7. I’m feeding .6 ec nutrients in am about a gallon and then again in pm with about a gallon. My runoff ec is 1.0-1.3 ec been coming down since I started feeding lighter twice a day. I would normally not worry to much about runoff ph but my plants are telling me something is wrong. Temps in tent are in 70s with 50% rh.

 
Madmax

Madmax

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Nute buildup is the reason for low ph..raising the ph wont do a thing..usually when your ppm runoff exceeds what your giving by say 200ppm its time to flush with 1/4 strength nutes till it reads what you was giving them then give them a normal feed ..

Those big ass pots are your problem..try 3 gals nxt grow...
 
SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

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Nute buildup is the reason for low ph..raising the ph wont do a thing..usually when your ppm runoff exceeds what your giving by say 200ppm its time to flush with 1/4 strength nutes till it reads what you was giving them then give them a normal feed ..
That’s kinda what I thought from reading around but I’m new to coco and indoor growing. I did have a nute buildup and I did what you said and flushed with low nutes and then I changed to feeding low ec twice a day instead of one feeding a day at higher ec. My ph dropped to 4.2 when I had the buildup and is coming up but not much and very slow it’s up to 4.7 now. Is there anything I can do to bring it up faster? I’m getting more clawing but it has slowed.
 
SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

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From what I gather you want to always ph feed in to 5.8-6.0 for coco and don’t go down the slippery slope of adjusting ph of feed in trying to change the ph out, possibly making things worse. But again I’m still learning.
 
Madmax

Madmax

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You probably need to lower the ppm to 250 with 2 feeds to make it 500ppm for the day. .my ph few grows back did this pretty much around where your plant is with same happening on leaves ..i just nursed them to the end..you will have to run gallons through to get ph where you want ..i never really fixed it but got my ph out only to 5.0 ..i was in 5 gals..the nxt grow i was wasting heaps of nutes just to keep ppm out in check..this grow im in 4 gals and not one problem..
 
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SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

705
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You probably need to lower the ppm to 250 with 2 feeds to make it 500ppm for the day. .my ph few grows back did this pretty much around where your plant is with same happening on leaves ..i just nursed them to the end..you will have to run gallons through to get ph where you want ..i never really fixed it but got my ph out only to 5.0 ..i was in 5 gals..the nxt grow i was wasting heaps of nutes just to keep ppm out in check..this grow im in 4 gals and not one problem..
I am feeding at .5-.6 ec so that is pretty close to 250 ppm, I feed about a gallon in the morning and a gallon in the afternoon. Yes the 10 gal fabric pots are definitely big lol rookie mistake but all good knowledge learned now.
 
Aqua Man

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@Aqua Man @Chemistry... what you guys reckon he should do..
Just seen this brother.

Eeesh bug pots.

Should be able to stabilize it by flushing with PH adjust light nutrient solution. But it's gonna be a hellova a lot of work in pots that big.

The problem lies with the amount of runoff with each watering. If your numbers are fluctuating from input to runoff then you need to be running more throught the media either volume or frequency wise.

Normally u say 3x the pot volume of PH adjusted nutrient solution. Never flush coco with just water.

But here I'd mix up 7 gal and flush that through slowly... checking the runoff caught at the end only.

Would also benefit from doing this with an enzyme like hygrozyme or komplete.

If 7 gal doesn't do it then do another 7 until runoff equals input.

Then give more runoff each watering and that will solve your issues.
 
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SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

705
143
Just seen this brother.

Eeesh bug pots.

Should be able to stabilize it by flushing with PH adjust light nutrient solution. But it's gonna be a hellova a lot of work in pots that big.

The problem lies with the amount of runoff with each watering. If your numbers are fluctuating from input to runoff then you need to be running more throught the media either volume or frequency wise.

Normally u say 3x the pot volume of PH adjusted nutrient solution. Never flush coco with just water.

But here I'd mix up 7 gal and flush that through slowly... checking the runoff caught at the end only.

Would also benefit from doing this with an enzyme like hygrozyme or komplete.

If 7 gal doesn't do it then do another 7 under runoff equals input.

Then give more runoff each watering and that will solve your issues.
Thanks this is exactly the info I needed. Yes pots are huge definitely learned a lot on my first grow in coco and indoors. I did start watering more frequently now with lower ec nutrients. I also did flush but only 4 gallons each plant, I will mix up and flush tomorrow. Thanks
 
Aqua Man

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So I'd say around 400-600ppm or you will likely see deficiencies in the next week.

Very common to see toxicity transition to deficiency because the media was high in nutrients then flushed and to low. Remember the issue was not the ppm you were feeding but rather the amount of runoff
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

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Now if I water 2 times a day should the ppm each feeding be 400-600ppm or should it be half that each time to total out to the 400-600ppm?
Every time should be the intended. Now your getting on in flower and I'm not sure your nutrients but N should start tapering down and K up. So it depends on the N levels of your nutrients. 600 PPM can be to high and even slight low in N depending on the ratios your using.

If it's a base nute then 400-600 each and every feed. If it a 3 part or adjusted for lower N then I would say 800 ppm. Which I find is about where you really want to be once your plants are established. But 800 ppm mid flower is a bit to much N if using a 1 part.
 
SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

705
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Every time should be the intended. Now your getting on in flower and I'm not sure your nutrients but N should start tapering down and K up. So it depends on the N levels of your nutrients. 600 PPM can be to high and even slight low in N depending on the ratios your using.

If it's a base nute then 400-600 each and every feed. If it a 3 part or adjusted for lower N then I would say 800 ppm. Which I find is about where you really want to be once your plants are established. But 800 ppm mid flower is a bit to much N if using a 1 part.
I am using fox farm tiger bloom and big bloom with calimagic
 
Aqua Man

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That shits ok in smal doses or soil with established nitrifying bacteria that will convert it to nitrates but not hydro... and I don't care what they say about it don't use it in hydro.

When plants take up ammonium the release h+ ions and that lowers PH and I have seen more than a few ppl have ph crashes with it.
 
Aqua Man

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Ok last rant on that shit.

Ammonia in soilless/hydro just say no.

Ammonia based nitrogen should never be more than 5% of the total source nitrogen. And we want as much of the nitrogen we use to be nitrates which will raise the PH as plants uptake it.
 
SofaKingHigh

SofaKingHigh

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Ok last rant on that shit.

Ammonia in soilless/hydro just say no.

Ammonia based nitrogen should never be more than 5% of the total source nitrogen. And we want as much of the nitrogen we use to be nitrates which will raise the PH as plants uptake it.
What nutrients would you recommend is it worth switching with me going into week 7 of flowering? Is general hydroponics any good?
 

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