Colorado Curing

[philoctetes]

I am seeking experienced advice on curing small outdoor grown harvests in Colorado. The climate is unique and fairly dry in Oct-Nov in Colorado (15RH/70F common indoors). I believe my technique needs to improve in this area.

I have read a few threads on no-cure technique that were very informative; but I believe somewhat relative to regional climate. Some suggest a rapid dry to the point of 'shatter dry', then jar and re-hydrate with ambient RH at a later time. This is not optimal in my experience; but I am undecided.

Some suggest a reasonable initial dry, 3-5 days, then jar and cure for 60 days minimum. This is loosing too much too fast in my experience.

I read about a wet-cure method using corn husks that may have merit in this climate. However, I am not willing to risk my small harvest on this one yet.

My tweaked method after 3 seasonal grows:

1. Cut entire plant, hang inverted for 10-14 days dark, slowly removing crispy leaves. Ambient RH not managed.
2. Full dry trim of colas when nearly snap dry stems and jar.
3. Gradual burping and cure-zone monitoring until adding humipaks after ~60 days dark cure. The color is rusty-green-brown after 60-90 days.

The herb smokes well, but is not very sticky or fragrant. I have sampled flowers early that I think were much better for flavor and potency (flash dried and no jar cure). I think the cure could better. Potency is great and flavor improves after 90+ days. Strains are sativa or sativa dom.

How could the cure be improved for better color, fragrance, potency and smoke-ability?

 

[Fishmaster42]

Im doing this now today. in Colorado, you only need to dry it hanging until the sticks break clean and longer than that is too long 5 to 6 days should be fine. trim, Then i do what i call sweat the buds put the bud in a jar check em in the morning they should be wet again take em out let em air dry more, i do this a few times to ensure the moisture is pulled out of the center of the buds. when I hang. i hang in the dark as cold as i can get it.

 

[SHIRDABZALOT]

Get a humidistat and a humidifier and set it on 50 % humidity. I prefer hang drying whole plant for 7-8 days, bucking it up into food grade plastic containers throw in 2 large boveda packs and trim each bin at leisure. Store final in Turkey bags with 2 large bovedas in each bag. put no more than 1/2-3/4 p in each bag so the nugs don't get crushed. Perfect everytime for me. Your welcome

 

[philoctetes]

Thanks for the good information. I will be trying a few changes based upon your comments.

I think the topic (optimal cure technique for small CO grow) needs greater discussion on a forum such as this. Some of the methods being used at dispensaries (DP) need a closer examination by non-commercial growers.

How are DP's getting better color, texture (sticky), fragrance than jar cured herb? Potency?

What are your thoughts on the following methods that some DP's are employing:

1. Flue-dry, or flash-dry, or freeze dry, wet-trimmed flower and store in non-oxygen enviro., cold with large desiccant. Initial dry is 24-48 hrs max. The flowers are very fragile and shatter-dry at this stage. Moisture content is below 10%. Smoking at this stage is very harsh because the burn is extremely hot.

2. To make sale ready, the flower is carefully re-hydrated (for $/weight) to 10-15% moisture and stored in 62-65% RH. Some key characteristics that are very different at this point to jar cure.

Some interesting comparative aspects:

Jar Cure:
The color is green-brown, fragrance is low, texture is leathery. Under magnification the jar cure is seriously "oxidized' with transformed trichomes. Smoke is very smooth.

Flash Dry and Re-hydrate:
The color is light green, silver, reddish. The trichomes are intact but shrunken. The fragrance is strong and the texture sticky. In some strains the potency and flavor are better.

My concerns:

cannabis oxidation is poorly understood generally,
long-standing methods require scrutiny,
many volatile elements in flowers are lost in sweating and re-dry,
extreme oxidation over time degrades potency,
cured flower lacks color and fragrance of flash-cure-rehydrate,
trichomes appear to be damaged in jar cure,

Any thoughts? The goal here is optimal potency, color, fragrance, texture.

 

[SHIRDABZALOT]

I wouldn't try any of those methods. They are commercial practices imo. Whole plant chop, dry trim only. You can fuck up 16 weeks of growing a perfect crop with one day of not knowing proper curing steps. It's kinda like the dude that has his dream house built and then right at the end decides to paint it himself.....and hes not a painter....to save money. Masterpiece that looks like shit....but for some reason they are still proud of it. Lol. Curing is one of the most overlooked, under practiced arts in the growing game. It's the difference between having a ferrari. ...or driving a datsun. It poses unique challenges in each different environment, but the parameters are the same for me; 7-8 days whole plant in the dark untouched at 68 degrees and 55-60 % humidity. The old adage about "leave it on the plant til the stem snaps) is wrong in my book. I like to trim before the point as it end up being perfect by the bagging point.I built a environmentally controlled dryroom (like most people do for their grow rooms) makes things pretty easy.

 

[Kaci420]

Wow I didn't have a clue there were so many options to cure cannabis. Very informative, thank you!

 

[Soilbrother1]

Good stuff all around in here. This is a lost principle. I have been a victim of finish-line "rush". I start off by patting myself on the back for the yield and beauty of the plant. Then the funniest thing happens, I pull it down and trim like its the most painstaking process ever, not putiing nearly as much effort into the post harvest process as I have the last umpteen weeks. Great thread. Well, I "thumbed up" enough... Here is something to actually contribute to the thread. A heavy blanket over this garment cover usually blocks enough light and keeps humidity in check dependent on how you Magyver it. Works well to dry if your limited on space.

 

[Golden Zia]

Here's my .02

1. Initial dry phase will vary based on not only RH, temperature as well as air movement. It is largely dependent on flower mass, tissue density and size of branch or arm as well!

Therefore one should not expect or be led to expect a proper dry in 5-7 days.

I often experience closer to 10+ days for a proper dry phase for tops.

Indeed a controlled environment is best for achieving best results, but not an absolute. Although I did convert an old big ass mobile home into a big ass humidor for my needs. However for the first week +/- it's just a big dark, unpowered box. Passive air movement only, yet controllable when needed. Both vented and refrigerated in my case.

After dry phase is complete. (I identify this by ensuring that skin of the stems snap when bent over but does not fully snap the stem itself in half) I will then take all that was hanging and while still on branch, I then buck all flowers or buds down to final, untrimmed sizes and then place in sealed glass jar. (Loosely filled)
The jars I use are massive. Each jar has a volume of roughly 3 gallons.
Smaller glass works just as well. In this case size doesn't matter. hehe!

I will keep jars sealed for 24 to 48 hours before reopening. When I reopen the jars I am looking for a dry sticky consistency, rather than a wet sticky consistency. This is easily identified with the help of the accompanying smell! At this phase, if you smell a " green or a chlorophyll type smell, then the flower was not properly dried before it was contained and it should be immediately removed from jar, spread out to an even layer of thickness and allowed to standing air dry for a short period of time ( several hours in a fairly dry environment should do) and then re-contained.

However, if you smell the yummy aroma that you had experienced while she was growing or something similar, then you are on the right track.
Assuming all is good, untrimmed buds can remain in jars for extended periods of time.

I have consistently used this method for many years now and almost without exception buds are incredibly aromatic! (Strain depending of course) and with many retaining "sticky" consistency sometimes for over a year..

 

[Golden Zia]

Additionally, I feel that it is a critical error to intentionally rapid dry, and then re-hydrate.
Though I am not a scientist, I am certain that that there are processes involving not only the separation of liquid water from the plant tissue but off gassing or some type conversion process that is directly affected by time as well as environmental conditions.

 

[Perception]

Get a humidistat and a humidifier and set it on 50 % humidity. I prefer hang drying whole plant for 7-8 days, bucking it up into food grade plastic containers throw in 2 large boveda packs and trim each bin at leisure. Store final in Turkey bags with 2 large bovedas in each bag. put no more than 1/2-3/4 p in each bag so the nugs don't get crushed. Perfect everytime for me. Your welcome

Really like this idea, and appreciate everyone else's comments too. Going on my fourth grow now, and still haven't gotten the cure very good. My garage can be warmed to 68deg in winter with a space heater, and stays around 70 in summer, but is DRY AS SHIT.

The hanging buds become crispy in three days, then I have to put in sealed jar overnight to re-wet, then I lay out on table for half a day. Then I jar up and start burping jars over next few weeks. This method has worked "OK", but is definitely lacking.

I think you guys are right about using a humidifier and controlling the dry room environment. Otherwise, it just dries too fast. I've got a portable swamp cooler, so will hook it up to a humidistat for next curing run. Thanks!!!

 

[philoctetes]

As the original thread author, I wanted to share the final determinations and technique that is now my preferred method for curing in Colorado:

1. First Cure 8-10 days: chop plant whole and invert on string. Small a space as possible. Keep room dark at 55 RH at 60 F. Get a small hygrometer. Cure stops at 70 F+, or below 50 RH.

2. Sublimation Dry 20 days: Place lightly trimmed flowers in loose boxes in frost-free freezer. Do not disturb. After dry, carefully empty into storage bin and return to First Cure room for 24-48 hrs while monitoring RH and temp.

3. Second Cure 60-90 days: When the flowers are stable at 58-64 RH, below 70 F, make the final trim and place into sealed jars with boveda. After cure, place into large ziplocks and into frost-free freezer for indefinite long-term storage.

Note: When ever the flowers are frozen, handle them with extreme care since the trichomes can break off readily (making keif). Ed Rosenthal alludes to this sequence and method in his excellent book.

Rosenthal uses the term Cure for the critical initial dry and the second longer stabilized sealed jar dry. During the second cure the sugar appears and indicates the success and cure cessation. The sublimation step greatly simplifies the whole process by releasing the last bit of moisture while preserving the finer and most desirable flower strain attributes.

The final result is fragrant, green, sugary, potent.

Thanks for all the great comments.

 

[Shamanfarmer]

Here's my .02

1. Initial dry phase will vary based on not only RH, temperature as well as air movement. It is largely dependent on flower mass, tissue density and size of branch or arm as well!

Therefore one should not expect or be led to expect a proper dry in 5-7 days.

I often experience closer to 10+ days for a proper dry phase for tops.

Indeed a controlled environment is best for achieving best results, but not an absolute. Although I did convert an old big ass mobile home into a big ass humidor for my needs. However for the first week +/- it's just a big dark, unpowered box. Passive air movement only, yet controllable when needed. Both vented and refrigerated in my case.

After dry phase is complete. (I identify this by ensuring that skin of the stems snap when bent over but does not fully snap the stem itself in half) I will then take all that was hanging and while still on branch, I then buck all flowers or buds down to final, untrimmed sizes and then place in sealed glass jar. (Loosely filled)
The jars I use are massive. Each jar has a volume of roughly 3 gallons.
Smaller glass works just as well. In this case size doesn't matter. hehe!

I will keep jars sealed for 24 to 48 hours before reopening. When I reopen the jars I am looking for a dry sticky consistency, rather than a wet sticky consistency. This is easily identified with the help of the accompanying smell! At this phase, if you smell a " green or a chlorophyll type smell, then the flower was not properly dried before it was contained and it should be immediately removed from jar, spread out to an even layer of thickness and allowed to standing air dry for a short period of time ( several hours in a fairly dry environment should do) and then re-contained.

However, if you smell the yummy aroma that you had experienced while she was growing or something similar, then you are on the right track.
Assuming all is good, untrimmed buds can remain in jars for extended periods of time.

I have consistently used this method for many years now and almost without exception buds are incredibly aromatic! (Strain depending of course) and with many retaining "sticky" consistency sometimes for over a year..

This is the method I've used for years, always provided top shelf results. I've always prided myself in the taste/smell and appearance of my bud, this process will ensure the best results, imo.

 

[Perception]

This is the method I've used for years, always provided top shelf results. I've always prided myself in the taste/smell and appearance of my bud, this process will ensure the best results, imo.

I just want to clarify on @Golden Zia s original comments, as I am a little confused on a couple steps.

-> "I then buck all flowers or buds down to final, untrimmed sizes and then place in sealed glass jar". Are you saying that you just cut the buds off of stems, but leave all the trim leaf attached to buds? (I'm assuming large fan leaves removed).

-> "Assuming all is good, untrimmed buds can remain in jars for extended periods of time." Do you do the final trim on buds later? I'm guessing that you would still need to slow cure these buds by burping over a couple months. Or is this finished product?

 

[iKharon]

Are you outdoors or in greenhouse...? I have a greenhouse and have humidifier and dehumidifier with humidistats... just gotta check on em every other day.. then you're only out a couple hundred bucks and a controlled environment- also in CO. :)

 

[GT21]

I try and jar it up right before the stem snaps.. kinda like when you bend a straw. Then i like to use the biggest jar possible to ensure all the weed cures out the same. And always dry trim... its prevents you from cutting open wet cells and getting the hay smell. I have a buddy that butchers every grow by trimming and jarring to wet... then his weed all smells like grass clippings.

Anchor hocking makes great 1 pound jars. Or food grade 5ers and gamma seals.

 

[Perception]

@GT21 Good to know about dry trimming vs. wet trimming. Are you saying to trim right after hang dry (just before jarring), or are you actually jarring for awhile, and then trimming weeks later?

I've got a couple of these 5Liter Fido Jars. The work well for the quantity I'm producing from a 3'x3' grow area. I can easily fit my hands in, and if you fill them about 2/3, it's easy to roll jars and have everything mix up without heavy agitation. They seal up SUPER tight too.

 

[GT21]

@GT21 Good to know about dry trimming vs. wet trimming. Are you saying to trim right after hang dry (just before jarring), or are you actually jarring for awhile, and then trimming weeks later?

I've got a couple of these 5Liter Fido Jars. The work well for the quantity I'm producing from a 3'x3' grow area. I can easily fit my hands in, and if you fill them about 2/3, it's easy to roll jars and have everything mix up without heavy agitation. They seal up SUPER tight too.

After im done hanging i trim it all nice and pop the buds off the stems. If im swamped then ill throw whole branches in a big Tupperware till i can get to it. These jars are what i use... anchor hocking Montana jars.

 

[Golden Zia]

I just want to clarify on @Golden Zia s original comments, as I am a little confused on a couple steps.

-> "I then buck all flowers or buds down to final, untrimmed sizes and then place in sealed glass jar". Are you saying that you just cut the buds off of stems, but leave all the trim leaf attached to buds? (I'm assuming large fan leaves removed). Yes, precisely.

-> "Assuming all is good, untrimmed buds can remain in jars for extended periods of time." Do you do the final trim on buds later? I'm guessing that you would still need to slow cure these buds by burping over a couple months. Or is this finished product?

Yes, burping as needed will continue. I determine the duration of burping based off of both smell and physical consistency. This duration can range quite noticably depending on flower mass. I've had some flowers be done and ready for deep sleep with in three weeks and others required nearly two months.
Once burping phase is complete, either final trim or not, and put em to deep sleep. Glass is best but unpractical for large amounts. Next best to glass is food grade five gallon buckets and gamma lids.

I just want to clarify on @Golden Zia s original comments, as I am a little confused on a couple steps.

-> "I then buck all flowers or buds down to final, untrimmed sizes and then place in sealed glass jar". Are you saying that you just cut the buds off of stems, but leave all the trim leaf attached to buds? (I'm assuming large fan leaves removed).

-> "Assuming all is good, untrimmed buds can remain in jars for extended periods of time." Do you do the final trim on buds later? I'm guessing that you would still need to slow cure these buds by burping over a couple months. Or is this finished product?

 

[Tat2420]

Additionally, I feel that it is a critical error to intentionally rapid dry, and then re-hydrate.
Though I am not a scientist, I am certain that that there are processes involving not only the separation of liquid water from the plant tissue but off gassing or some type conversion process that is directly affected by time as well as environmental conditions.

I totally agree

 

[Juicebox]

I quit using jars a while back myself....i cut at the main stalk hang till the outside of the buds crisp up then i cut into manageable chunks and i use a lightproof smell proof ziplock bag a big one then close it up till it sweats back to not crispy...like when it all sticks together into a big mass then i just open the bag and sweat as needed....live in very low humidity area...works for me and i cut cost on humidifier and all that...i tried jars many times since moving to the province and a local guy who has won some show awards here taught me this....