When do you think I can dim up my lights the dimmer is at 75%right now and I'm starting 2nd week on Wednesday? Lights are at 32 " away from plantsI would only use UV during flower if at all given how much elec costs are....I wouldn't use IR unless the room was cold and even then I would get my heat from a different source. I am thinking the R means red so you can run that full time along with the rest of the light.
I'm sorry are you sur it's me I've only had the lights plugged in for a week ,if I di I apologize for asking againBud, I already answered your questions on another thread
480w bavagreen led grow light
I'm looking for some info on how to use this light ,starting with the dimmer and 3 other switches for red lights ,ir and uv ,not sure at what stage of growth they should be on or off and for the dimmer I started my seedlings at 50 % and 36 " away from pots any help would be appreciated thankswww.thcfarmer.com
If you click on the link I posted, it takes you to your other thread where you asked the same questions.I'm sorry are you sur it's me I've only had the lights plugged in for a week ,if I di I apologize for asking again
Thanks.N1ghtL1ght said:
BAVAGREEN 480W LED Grow Light
Spectrum Mixed LM301H with Osram 660nm/730nm Deep Red and Seoul UV 385nm Now featuring Samsung LM301H diodes. Samsung's latest and most efficient diode designed specifically for horticultural applications. LED count LM301H 2700K: 384 LM301H 4000K: 640 Osram 660nm: 36 Osram 730nm: 6 Seoul UV...
bava-green.com
Click to expand...
They are in the 2nd week and they are autoflowersWhat stage are your plants at?
I understand the switches now moe helped me out on that all I want to know is when I can crank up that dimmer to 100% right now its between 50 and 75%Red dial is a dimmer, uv is ultra violet and ir is iridescent, it is a 2 cycle light, I would assume if you put both uv and ir on it would be full spec but unsure, did not your light come with directions? If still unsure call up company and they will explain.
Do you have a light meter? The ppfd and plant response to it is the determining factor when deciding if to turn up or down the intensity.I understand the switches now moe helped me out on that all I want to know is when I can crank up that dimmer to 100% right now its between 50 and 75%
Thank youDo you have a light meter? The ppfd and plant response to it is the determining factor when deciding if to turn up or down the intensity.
If you don’t have a meter and don’t want to spend the money for a quality PAR meter you can download a app to your phone. Many people us Photone. It’s accurate enough to get you in the ballpark of what the intensity is being emitted from the light.Thank you
If your meaning two week seedlings I would leave the red, uv and ir off. 18" to 24" off of the tallest plant. With the dimmer at 25 to 50%. If you can get a kill-a-watt meter that will let you know how much power your light is drawing. Pretty fare bet 60 to 100 watts will take you through seedlings to early veg at 18" to 24". The light appears to claim a lot of 4000k leds. 4000k is the blue spike in the spectrum graph and thats great for seedlings and early veg. 4000k helps with stretch and keeps nodes tight. Makes for a short fat plant and large fan leaves if the plants genetics support them. three weeks bring the red on. Even if all it brings to the table is the 730nm reds. five weeks bring the UV on or as the plant is starting to bud. While the uv will be mostly uva it will trail off to the left with a bit of uvb. UVB is what gives you a sun burn. And it's what the plants like to dislike. It does not take much uvb. Most growers would use way to much uvb if they had good acess to it. UV at any spectrum is hard on led tech so uv leds over all have a shorter useful life span. IR is intresting in this light. I don't know if they are counting it as far red in the misleading spectrum chart with uv on. If it's a good ir when you hold the back of your hand up to the light turning on the ir you should feel a slight increase in heat. If you don't feel the heat there is either not enough ir leds you don't have the power up high enough or there not real or good ir leds and there using them to bolster the far right red. At any rate I would expect more PPFD out of the light than there PPFD chart shows. For what it's worth that light in some ways has traits like my HLG dual 260 rspec w/uva-30. My light does not have claimed 730 nm red or IR. But at 480 watt as measured by a kill-a-watt is over 1000 PPFD at 24" with a max draw of 514 watts it can go into CO2 land. With all the big and powerful lights now days of which I support and enjoy. And am a believer in more light than needed is a good thing. Is why I keep HLG 100 V2's 4000k as my seedling and early veg lights. With no dimmer and 95 watts there great for seedling at 18" to 28", just raise and lower as needed. Then bring the power house light online in the third or fourth week depending on the plants... Good Luck!They are in the 2nd week and they are autoflowers
Thank you for that great explanation really appreciated have a good dayIf your meaning two week seedlings I would leave the red, uv and ir off. 18" to 24" off of the tallest plant. With the dimmer at 25 to 50%. If you can get a kill-a-watt meter that will let you know how much power your light is drawing. Pretty fare bet 60 to 100 watts will take you through seedlings to early veg at 18" to 24". The light appears to claim a lot of 4000k leds. 4000k is the blue spike in the spectrum graph and thats great for seedlings and early veg. 4000k helps with stretch and keeps nodes tight. Makes for a short fat plant and large fan leaves if the plants genetics support them. three weeks bring the red on. Even if all it brings to the table is the 730nm reds. five weeks bring the UV on or as the plant is starting to bud. While the uv will be mostly uva it will trail off to the left with a bit of uvb. UVB is what gives you a sun burn. And it's what the plants like to dislike. It does not take much uvb. Most growers would use way to much uvb if they had good acess to it. UV at any spectrum is hard on led tech so uv leds over all have a shorter useful life span. IR is intresting in this light. I don't know if they are counting it as far red in the misleading spectrum chart with uv on. If it's a good ir when you hold the back of your hand up to the light turning on the ir you should feel a slight increase in heat. If you don't feel the heat there is either not enough ir leds you don't have the power up high enough or there not real or good ir leds and there using them to bolster the far right red. At any rate I would expect more PPFD out of the light than there PPFD chart shows. For what it's worth that light in some ways has traits like my HLG dual 260 rspec w/uva-30. My light does not have claimed 730 nm red or IR. But at 480 watt as measured by a kill-a-watt is over 1000 PPFD at 24" with a max draw of 514 watts it can go into CO2 land. With all the big and powerful lights now days of which I support and enjoy. And am a believer in more light than needed is a good thing. Is why I keep HLG 100 V2's 4000k as my seedling and early veg lights. With no dimmer and 95 watts there great for seedling at 18" to 28", just raise and lower as needed. Then bring the power house light online in the third or fourth week depending on the plants... Good Luck!
Wasn't good enough for me and is what spawned me on to buy a Apogee meter. Was pretty much useless. iPhone 13 pro max read 200 ppfd high with diffuser and a Sammy Ultra 21 read 200 ppfd low. Phones could be calibrated to the Apogee or Apogee Clear Sky Calculator website. But soon as the phones were rebooted calibration was gone.If you don’t have a meter and don’t want to spend the money for a quality PAR meter you can download a app to your phone. Many people us Photone. It’s accurate enough to get you in the ballpark of what the intensity is being emitted from the light.
Can't use my phone cheap Samsung I'll look into ordering oneWasn't good enough for me and is what spawned me on to buy a Apogee meter. Was pretty much useless. iPhone 13 pro max read 200 ppfd high with diffuser and a Sammy Ultra 21 read 200 ppfd low. Phones could be calibrated to the Apogee or Apogee Clear Sky Calculator website. But soon as the phones were rebooted calibration was gone.
I also have an apogee too. Not everyone can or is willing to shell out that kind of coin for a meter. The phone app was close enough when I used it that I never burned a plant. Before the app it just took a lot of grows to learn to read the plants. Fried a few plants along that journey. Point is the app is better then no meter at all.Wasn't good enough for me and is what spawned me on to buy a Apogee meter. Was pretty much useless. iPhone 13 pro max read 200 ppfd high with diffuser and a Sammy Ultra 21 read 200 ppfd low. Phones could be calibrated to the Apogee or Apogee Clear Sky Calculator website. But soon as the phones were rebooted calibration was gone.
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