cool coil to cool UC8XL help.

vangs · Jan 19, 2013

i am purchasing a UC8xl system. the website states that the full system was 65gal total. i will have a 55gal resivior that will have the float valve kit so it always will top off the epicenter with chilled r/o water with the nutes already in it.. my question is.

the stealth hydro will run r/o water into the 55gal drum, which will have a ppm/ph/temp meter reading everything. the nutes will be added in, and finally the float valve will constantly fill the epicenter with the correct ph/ppm/temp water for the girls. now to chill the 55gal drum, i will have a chiller that has its own 25gal res to recycle the harm water from the cool coil. the cool coil will be placed in the 55gal drum. the cool coil will cool the 55gal water right before it gets filled into the epicenter. will 1 cool coil be able to cool the 55gal top off rez? or will it need more than 1 coil?

also, what size chiller is required for a cool coil.

babyhughie586 · Jan 20, 2013

Bro you are waaaayyyy over doing/thinking it for a UC8xl... i run a 8xl and there is really no need for a top off rez.. All you need to do add a few gallons of water every week as the girls drink it add a lil more... they will hardly drink anything until they get a nice large root system and then when they do have a huge root system they still dont drink but maybe 5-8 gallons a day total...

However if you insisted on getting a seperate rez your going to want to have a 2 pumps in your 55 gal rez bucket.. One that pumps water from your 55gal rez through the chiller and back into the rez and one that pumps from your rez through your cool coil and back into your rez... Your cool coil needs to be in the UC epicenter not in your 55gal rez...

I do it the easy way and its worked for over 2 years now... i keep my rez outside of my grow area and have a 2 gallon jug to top off manually when needed... Since it sits outside of my grow area is stays relativly cool, the water only needs to be 62-68 once its in the system... My chiller sits next to my epicenter and i have a pump in my epicenter that pumps my UC water out n then through my chiller and the back into the top of my epicenter it stays consistant at whatever temp i put it at... I have had no problems to date using this method... I use a 1/4 Hp active aqua chiller set at 66

woodsmaneh · Jan 20, 2013

I run a res barrel for my chiller water and put the coils in my epicenter, works like a charm. Running one system you can do it the other way pump you nutrients through the coil in your chiller barrel. I don't run nutrients through my chiller as I think that reduces the life span of the chiller. A 25 foot SS coil will work well. These are 50 foot SS I got from NY brewing supply for 75$ each other places charge 150+ for them.

http://www.nybrewsupply.com/beer-ho...ort-chiller-garden-hose-fittings-38-x-50.html

Greeneye04 · Jan 20, 2013

I would run 1 coil in your epicenter... I don't think u will need one in your top off unless it's somewhere it gets real hot... I keep my top off outside the room and don't need to chill it.. It stays around 68... If top off is set up through float valve it will b letting little water through at a time so it shouldn't have an effect on the system temp .. Prob going to need a 1/10 hp chiller if your running 8 gal modules or a 1/4 hp for 13 gal modules.... U may want to consider oversizing chiller as well if u have plans of expanding later

pdasterly · Jun 12, 2019

I have a few questions on a similiar setup, i want to put a wort coil in my rez since my water chiller likes to get clogged every few months or so. What size pump should i use? I have a 1hp chiller and it recommends 800 or 1000 gpm pump but thats accounting for 100+ gallons running thru it, with the coil im guess less than 2 gallons of water probably even less

Indiva710 · Jul 28, 2019

So for my veg tent I have a uc4 and I have a top off res on that that's only 13gal but it does wonders for me as I just added it this grow and it does make a difference the plants seem much happier keeping a constant water level as you run it to your epicenter on a float valve and you can put next week's nutes into it and call it a day....and my bloom is x4 27gal totes that is 85gal I run a 1/4hp chiller with a 700gph pump for my return line and it runs into my chiller and then into my epicenter on the outside of the tent as both my epicenters and top off rez makes things much more efficient... The 55gal top off rez I have sitting on 2 cinder blocks so it is higher than the epicenter so it can drain all the way with gravity... I run my temps at 71-73 the rez is at 71 just due to ambient temp of the room so no need to chill...And it works even better for adding next week's nutes than in veg of course....and in bloom is when u can lower water level to simulate a drought to drop it down slowly over the last half of bloom or so....hope that helps gud luck with it..also if ur getting gunk in ur chiller and it clogging some how then u should get a spin filter for before it and you shouldn't have a problem..they also say you should clean them every 1-2mo so after each harvest you should clean it out...which the best way I have found is to get like a 5gal bucket fill it with water and alot of h2o2 depends on how nasty depends on amaount I've heard people doing 1quart of h2o2 however I did like a cup full and is plenty for me u can always do a cup and then rinse it out refill and do it again until she runs free and no scale and gunk out of it...a fishing net helps as u don't have to refill so much then but also depends on how bad it is....hope that helps

Sonnyhad · Jan 8, 2020

I use a 55 gal drum for as a top off res, it connects to the epicenter with the float valve. It has next weeks feed. When I do a change out, I freeze some cool whip containers of RO water and put them in the epicenter when filling from the warmer top off res. The water never gets over 70.

Indiva710 · Jan 8, 2020

Sonnyhad said:
I use a 55 gal drum for as a top off res, it connects to the epicenter with the float valve. It has next weeks feed. When I do a change out, I freeze some cool whip containers of RO water and put them in the epicenter when filling from the warmer top off res. The water never gets over 70.

Exactly how my pic is however I do water changes as needed not on a schedule amount of time esp when your replacing all the water in a week it's always fresh ..Now if it gets cloudy or pH gets unstable then I do a res change but that's about it and which last run for bloom I did a res change like half only the last week for a few days of flush but that's it and then when I'm at 0ppm for flush I will use that water to add my cleaner too pool shock or bleach then rinse that out fill and drain and dry and ready for next round....However my chiller I will unhook from the system and get a 5gal bucket fill it with vinegar or citric acid of course diluted and will run it for 24hr however if it is really bad I will replace the solution or I will just use a net get the main stuff out and go from there...And h2o2 works great for it too..Just rinse it good and good to go for the next run..Also you might want to suck out as much water as u can too if your going to store for a while....Which is something they need to improve chillers and make a drain for them as it would be easy to do and would do wonders too ....
When I do a water change to keep the new water the same as the old I will put it in the 55gal top off res a day prior and just turn the valve so it won't drain and get that clean and ready fill it up and then u will have 55gal that's ready to go my system does 80gal so I just run the ro line and mix it in at the same time and it works out great that way....And the ro water is a nice 66 I use so it's nice....However I think I will be getting a 30gal top off res instead as that's wat they drink In a weeks time and that's exactly what I want so I can have the top off a week ahead for nutes...So when it slowly drains into the system the plants get their new nutes for that week and wont get shocked by it and I don't have to do much of anything maybe pH it if need be but that's about it I also run the top off at like 5.2-5.4ph so as it slowly goes into the system it keeps the systems pH in check and I don't have to touch it then and does wonders for me...
I also refuse to use bennies for rdwc and go sterile well as sterile as u can have to keep plants alive..Which is also why and how I can go 2 months without a water change and I do the same for veg pretty much do a water change when its time for a new crop ...Saves a lot on water and nutes bill...
Which I also use dry powder nutes and everything for that matter..Huge believer in having clean and clear nutes for a hydro setup...As organics has their place and in hydro systems is not one of them ....But with anything in growing what works for me does not mean it will work for others and vica versa .....

Sonnyhad · Jan 9, 2020

Indiva710 said:
Exactly how my pic is however I do water changes as needed not on a schedule amount of time esp when your replacing all the water in a week it's always fresh ..Now if it gets cloudy or pH gets unstable then I do a res change but that's about it and which last run for bloom I did a res change like half only the last week for a few days of flush but that's it and then when I'm at 0ppm for flush I will use that water to add my cleaner too pool shock or bleach then rinse that out fill and drain and dry and ready for next round....However my chiller I will unhook from the system and get a 5gal bucket fill it with vinegar or citric acid of course diluted and will run it for 24hr however if it is really bad I will replace the solution or I will just use a net get the main stuff out and go from there...And h2o2 works great for it too..Just rinse it good and good to go for the next run..Also you might want to suck out as much water as u can too if your going to store for a while....Which is something they need to improve chillers and make a drain for them as it would be easy to do and would do wonders too ....
When I do a water change to keep the new water the same as the old I will put it in the 55gal top off res a day prior and just turn the valve so it won't drain and get that clean and ready fill it up and then u will have 55gal that's ready to go my system does 80gal so I just run the ro line and mix it in at the same time and it works out great that way....And the ro water is a nice 66 I use so it's nice....However I think I will be getting a 30gal top off res instead as that's wat they drink In a weeks time and that's exactly what I want so I can have the top off a week ahead for nutes...So when it slowly drains into the system the plants get their new nutes for that week and wont get shocked by it and I don't have to do much of anything maybe pH it if need be but that's about it I also run the top off at like 5.2-5.4ph so as it slowly goes into the system it keeps the systems pH in check and I don't have to touch it then and does wonders for me...
I also refuse to use bennies for rdwc and go sterile well as sterile as u can have to keep plants alive..Which is also why and how I can go 2 months without a water change and I do the same for veg pretty much do a water change when its time for a new crop ...Saves a lot on water and nutes bill...
Which I also use dry powder nutes and everything for that matter..Huge believer in having clean and clear nutes for a hydro setup...As organics has their place and in hydro systems is not one of them ....But with anything in growing what works for me does not mean it will work for others and vica versa .....

If I may ask, what dry nutes do you use! Local shop doesn't carry them.

TheBioMaster · Jan 14, 2020

Your missing out by not taking advantage of using bennies in your systems IMHO......they are, contrary to most beliefs needed to keep your roots happy and promotes pH stability which is where and when the real magic happens.

The peeps with problems using bennies are usually always related to the source water.....NOT the use of organics!!

Running a sterile rez, is well simp!y put, unnatural!! Nature and plants especially NEED the symbiotic relationship formed between the bacteria and fungi to express FULL genetic traits......

Sure, running or should I say fighting to keep things sterile will allow you to complete a grow......but nothing close to a system with organic inputs.....

I ran sterile for YEARS in a UC.......it sucked mostly in the finished product when compared to a hybrid system.....running both chelated nutrient base's along with organic inputs which require the beneficial bacteria's and fungi to be present will far surpass a half ass sterile system.

Think about this......no matter how much bleach, h202, and other sterilizing agents you add, there will STILL be bacteria present....if you somehow managed to kill everything in the water, that water would KILL your plants......dead!!

So logic would dictate to learn how to manage the bacteria and fungi populations....ever hear of aquaponics??? How much bacteria do you think is in one of those tanks???

Another "myth" is the needed low water temps and use of chillers...phoey!!! My temps STAY anywhere from70f to 75f.......no root rot, just massive ass root systems that frankly can get to LARGE to manage in even 30 gallon containers!!!

I encourage you to test on your own as opposed to reading these forums full of mostly myths from growers who just never learned to properly manage these type systems......again just my humble opinion based on well over 15 years of experience in RDWC and Aquaponic systems.......

notpatient · Jan 30, 2020

TheBioMaster said:
Your missing out by not taking advantage of using bennies in your systems IMHO......they are, contrary to most beliefs needed to keep your roots happy and promotes pH stability which is where and when the real magic happens.

The peeps with problems using bennies are usually always related to the source water.....NOT the use of organics!!

Running a sterile rez, is well simp!y put, unnatural!! Nature and plants especially NEED the symbiotic relationship formed between the bacteria and fungi to express FULL genetic traits......

Sure, running or should I say fighting to keep things sterile will allow you to complete a grow......but nothing close to a system with organic inputs.....

I ran sterile for YEARS in a UC.......it sucked mostly in the finished product when compared to a hybrid system.....running both chelated nutrient base's along with organic inputs which require the beneficial bacteria's and fungi to be present will far surpass a half ass sterile system.

Think about this......no matter how much bleach, h202, and other sterilizing agents you add, there will STILL be bacteria present....if you somehow managed to kill everything in the water, that water would KILL your plants......dead!!

So logic would dictate to learn how to manage the bacteria and fungi populations....ever hear of aquaponics??? How much bacteria do you think is in one of those tanks???

Another "myth" is the needed low water temps and use of chillers...phoey!!! My temps STAY anywhere from70f to 75f.......no root rot, just massive ass root systems that frankly can get to LARGE to manage in even 30 gallon containers!!!

I encourage you to test on your own as opposed to reading these forums full of mostly myths from growers who just never learned to properly manage these type systems......again just my humble opinion based on well over 15 years of experience in RDWC and Aquaponic systems.......

With real interest I'd like to see some of you posts about organic DWC, what you use. Id like to learn

Indiva710 · Jan 30, 2020

Sonnyhad said:
If I may ask, what dry nutes do you use! Local shop doesn't carry them.

I use jacks hydro part a, calnit aka part b, mgso4, m.o.s.t, m.k.p aka pk boost, potassium silicate agsil 16h which if you scrog is a must have for hydro true believer that's for sure...citric acid and pool shock I been using for sterilization and cleaning just trying out the citric acid I may try concentrated vinegar if I don't like the citric acid as I use regular 5% for my aero cloner and it does wonders.....And that's what I been running....I may try some Bennie's again like tribus original but will c maybe later just in the past didn't have good luck running it in a rdwc it totally makes sense don't get me wrong but rdwc isn't natural for the most part I mean the myans used to make floating rafts in a cenote and plant on them which is dopetastic....Also what works for one doesn't mean it works for all esp in growing.....

cool coil to cool UC8XL help.

cool coil to cool UC8XL help.

vangs

babyhughie586

woodsmaneh

Greeneye04

pdasterly

Indiva710

Sonnyhad

Indiva710

Sonnyhad

TheBioMaster

notpatient

Indiva710

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