cool your room, not bulb/reflecter!

[blue-dreamer]

Glass sealing your hood casuses a 10% loss in light, and air cooling your bulb drops that another 15% for a total of 25% loss. Air cooling your bulb drops the voltage in the bulb and actually dims the bulb. Air cool the room not the bulb for more efficiency.

 

[El Cerebro]

can I get an amen?

 

[half baked]

already do just that bro!

 

[M.S.T.]

Glass sealing your hood casuses a 10% loss in light, and air cooling your bulb drops that another 15% for a total of 25% loss. Air cooling your bulb drops the voltage in the bulb and actually dims the bulb. Air cool the room not the bulb for more efficiency.

I def. agree sealed cooled room better, and glass loss. I think I understand your voltage drop. Element burns cooler hence less voltage? Would be amazed to see a 15% decrease though. Have you tested this? Does that mean if I stop venting my hood and check in same spot with my light meter I will see a 15% increase? Not a disbeliever, just want more info please.

 

[Tobor the 8th Man]

If you cool the room you are still cooling the bulb. In fact I argue that cooling the room with A/C is actually cooling the bulb to whatever temp the room gets too.

When you have a vented hood you are NOT cooling the bulb you are just carrying the heat away from the bulb.

I bet my bottom dollar that if you had a sealed room a/c'd down to 75 the bulb would be cooler than if you had a vented hood and the room temp was 75. The a/c room would eventually chill everything in the room to 75. The vented hood would pull the bulb heat away and if the plant area was 75 the temp around the bulb would be higher because there is more of a heat gradient from the bottom of the room to the top near the bulb. So I would argue that if what you say is true then an a/c room has more wattage drop at the bulb. What is probably true is that if your a/c room is 75 and my hooded light room is 75 then a our bulbs temps are the same.

Regular glass has a 10% light loss due to mostly reflection and some due to absorption. Modern glass made specifically for grow lights and other applications can have as little as 3% loss of light.

IMHO... There is no way in hell that a high quality air cooled hood is dropping light output 25%.

 

[El Cerebro]

Hey Tobor, how much is your bottom dollar? This time of year where I live, venting would def be below 75 (glass feels cool to touch).

 

[calicoli]

info source.

peace

 

[Str8Dank]

so some guy that has a incentive to provide dramatic data to increase the benefits of his product is the source? I'd like to see these numbers from a hps or mh bulb manufacture they have no incentive but to offer you the best experience with their product where this guy in the video wants you to feel your hid setup is inferior and to pitch it for one of his.

i don't believe air cooling is reducing lumen output by 15%. maybe if your running 1000cfm of 30 degree air through the hood but considering his business objectives doing something like this in a 'test' to get dramatic numbers sound about right. cooling is about airflow and air temp so his claim is based on what cfm passing through a aircooled hood and what temp for the air source? he does not give this information and states this 15% loss like its in every light that makes his look unreliable. this again would be perfect information to ask hortilux, i think I'll email them.

As for the glass take in consideration the lumen loss by distance then consider how much closer in a large hood like a raptor or magnum xxxl you can have your bulb to your plants. that 10% loss is compensated for by distance and may even increase the lumens reaching your canopy (not considering this 15% air cooled claim). im sure when my canopy is even and my magnum hoods are almost touching the colas but the entire 4 x 4 is perfectly lit im getting more lumens with a 10% reduction then you're getting at 1.5-2'. You can also use 1 amp to remove 10 degrees from a room with 3k with air cooling where you will use 10 amps of air conditioning for the same effect. that 9 amp difference is enough to add another 600 to your room with additional air cooling and still use the same amount of power.

 

[baba G]

For one this guy says they are the only company where you can replace the hood, PL lighting has the same hood style where you can separate the hood/reflector from the mounting apparatus.
And he says you lose like 10% a year if you don't change your hood, well, why the fuck after 10 years with the same hoods am I doing so well??
This guy might have a great product but the method or technique he is using to display that is almost coming across slightly Advanced Nute style...
So, they say philips is really the bees knees at the end...Anyone here use philips bulbs? I tried some philips xt bulbs years ago, all they did were blow in a ggl digital ballast and I've never heard of anyone using philips in their room and telling me I gotta change to it. I have no experience with this Gavita product, but my main question is why so many years of not putting out a product Gavita? And if you look at the last product Gavita put out for our industry, it sucked(anyone remember the gavita dew guard and bulb with reflector built in, supposedly the most efficient bulb in the world they claimed...) .
But plasma I'm really intrigued by, but to me I almost get the feeling these folks are noticing how big this industry really is(internationally) and really pitching to it now...could be wrong but that is my gut feeling.

 

[Str8Dank]

bubba G there was so many unfounded bullshit statements he made i completely forgot i wanted to say his credibility was shot after his 10% reduction in light reflection statement anyways. i don't have to run a intentional experiment to know that 10% isn't being lost EVERY year in my hoods if so my yields would go down by 10% a year.

 

[baba G]

Yeah, he just wants to sell more reflectors...for sure!
Affordable to boot...lmao

 

[619ster]

I've used Phillips CMH bulb and they rock!!!! I actually prefer them over hps. But they only go up to 400w so I currently use 1000w hps.

 

[baba G]

I've used Phillips CMH bulb and they rock!!!! I actually prefer them over hps. But they only go up to 400w so I currently use 1000w hps.

Cool, I have no experience with the CMHalides, have you tried regular MH and compared the CMH to the MH?

 

[619ster]

Cool, I have no experience with the CMHalides, have you tried regular MH and compared the CMH to the MH?

I haven't compared, but I have run both. All I know is CMH can flower very well, while MH gets outperformed. I can't say CMH is better than HPS as there is no comparison grows or facts to make that statement, but I personally prefer to have LOTS of spectrum rather than less. My flower room consists of 600w of LEDs and a 1000w HPS pounding over a 10x8 space. If I could manage heat and electricity bill, I'd add a couple 250w CMH bulbs in there too for even more spectrums! The buds (this has been tested) come out with higher THC and CBD with more spectrums.

 

[baba G]

Sweet, I agree adding many spectrums can only help to reproduce the sun!
I'd love to try some grows under plasma, cmh and led to see if my levels change that much, would be fun!

 

[outwest]

Sweet, I agree adding many spectrums can only help to reproduce the sun!
I'd love to try some grows under plasma, cmh and led to see if my levels change that much, would be fun!

Growzilla with dual spectrum bulbs FTW!

outwest

 

[1971]

dubious claims to air cooling reducing efficiency that much or that glass reduces close to that

 

[squarepusher]

seems like a hard sell

 

[blue-dreamer]

I posted this because I watched a video on it. Cant say i know from experience. I would naturally think tho that the glass would filter some rays tho but im no scientist or researcher. Makes sense that a bulb air cooled however, means the bulb can be closer therefor---it wins my opinion.

 

[ttystikk]

Ok, so sources elsewhere in the industry generally agree that there is a 5 to 8% lumen loss when shining through a pane of glass. This rises fast if the glass is at all dirty, so keep 'em clean, kids! So on this score, he's not too far off.

On to the 15% efficiency loss claim for air cooling; A 1000W bulb is putting out 3500 BTu per hour; it's gonna take a freakin' hurricane blowing at subzero temps to cool that bulb enough to get it to spectrum shift. I do recommend people use room temp air to cool their hoods, mostly to ensure consistency, and so they're not pouring AC dollars down their vent holes, lol. I run ochos- magnum xxxl hoods with 8" vents- and an 8" maxfan at the end, pulling air through and out. I remove the majority of the heat, will guess about 2/3 of the total heat output of the bulb, with this aircooling. Lumen loss/spectrum shift from aircooling? Negligible. Don't believe me? Do the math...

If you look at the guys running vertical bare bulb rooms, you'll see a lot of them have fans blowing directly on their bulbs so they don't have hotspots in their bloomrooms. Whether you blow through a hole or just blow, you're still moving air across the bulb's surface, so this should be a wash.

Here's the difference; the bare bulb guys have to run AC to cool the entire 3500BTu/hr of each 1000w bulb; the aircooled guys, just 1/3 of that. That power savings alone more than makes up for the lumen loss of glass in a sealed hood.

Now here's where the dude in the video missed a big opportunity; it turns out that different reflectors vary wildly in how efficiently they reflect light downwards onto the working surface. Xtrasun style hoods, the smaller ones, SUCK because the inner sides are too steep and only some of the inner surfaces are reflective. The wide footprint magnums, raptors and the like are far more efficient hoods than anything this side of an adjust-a-wing, and then only because of the glass issue. If the dude had focused on that, he would have made a much stronger argument. Hard sell, questionable facts...