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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

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Council Of First Knowledge, Jedi Temple Training Facility

EventHorizan 21,559 Replies 1,811,017 Views
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Now for the modifications

Individual waterfarms.

The first thing that you want to do is to drill out the holes in the upper chamber. They are too small and do not allow thr roots to get into the lower chamber. I drill them out to be slightly smaller than the hydroton (or whatever your using). This prevents the hydroton from falling into the lower chamber. This also allows the root system to get into the lower chamber.

By adding an air stone to each waterfarm, they can become a DWC system when the roots get into the lower chamber. This combination of a drip system and DWC system provide lots of oxygen and nutrient to our babies. I normally use the drip system when they are little and switch to DWC when they get bigger.

8-pack system

One inherent problem with the 8-pack system is keeping the nutrients in each individual unit to the correct PH and PPM. You would have to check each unit, and both reservoirs. General Hydroponics realized this and created a circulation system kit. This system circulates the nutrient through all of the individual units and back into the lower reservoir chamber. The kit costs about $30, but can be created by purchasing the individual parts for much cheaper. The system uses the same percolation tube to circulate the nutrient as the individual waterfarms use to pull the nutrients into the drip ring. You can purchase the additional grommets, tubing and a waterfarm modular kit (that has the percolation tube) and do it yourself.

Here is a picture of the General Hydroponic installation instructions for the circulation kit.
Circulate-Instructions.jpg


The link for this pdf is located at the end of this tutorial.

As you can see, the circulation kit is pretty simple to replicate for the DIYer. If you don't want to DIY, you can purchase this upgrade from any Hydro store, they may have to order it in.

Now you have a system that will circulate the nutrients between each unit and the lower reservoir. I know of some growers that just use the lower reservoir at this point.

I wanted to incorporate the upper reservoir into the system, but ran into a problem with the upper reservoir not having the same PH and PPM as the lower. So I needed to include the upper reservoir in the circulation system. To achieve this, I installed a small submersible pump in the lower reservoir that pumps into the upper reservoir. As the level in the lower reservoir goes down, the float valve opens and the contents of the upper reservoir drains into the lower reservoir. I placed the pump on a timer and it runs for two minutes every hour. You have to make sure that the pump doesn't work faster that the ability to drain from the upper reservoir into the lower.

Now I have achieved a system that incorporates all components of the Waterfarm system and circulates the nutrients between all reservoirs.

With an air stone in each individual unit, I have created a drip/DWC system with a large reservoir capacity that circulates the nutrients through all components of the system.

A couple of things to remember:

Use dark tubing to prevent light from getting into your system. Light = algae.

Kee your nutrient temperature below 75 degrees to prevent algae.

Make sure that the lower reservoir pump doesn't work faster that the gravity drain, otherwise the pump could run dry. This is why I only run my pump for a couple fo minutes each hour.
see all of that just seems WAY.....to much for growing plants......to many problems
the reason that the ph is differ is the fact that plants produce waste which effects ph and ppm
using a system like that ....to me ....just seems counter productive once it reaches a certain point
hey.....every few weeks have you been resetting your res??
like dumping everything and starting fresh
 
You know I have had a lot of ph flux in the bucket with the hydroten? I see other ppl complain about it to. What can I do to prevent that? Did i not wash it well enough? I washed it with just plain tap water..
What other median is their for hydro? Is there anything better?
 
see all of that just seems WAY.....to much for growing plants......to many problems
the reason that the ph is differ is the fact that plants produce waste which effects ph and ppm
using a system like that ....to me ....just seems counter productive once it reaches a certain point
hey.....every few weeks have you been resetting your res??
like dumping everything and starting fresh
Yes every week I change out the res and wash it out. And I do the bucket the same way. I do plan on trying to go 10- 14 days with the rdwc.
 
see all of that just seems WAY.....to much for growing plants......to many problems
the reason that the ph is differ is the fact that plants produce waste which effects ph and ppm
using a system like that ....to me ....just seems counter productive once it reaches a certain point
hey.....every few weeks have you been resetting your res??
like dumping everything and starting fresh
I guess you answered that before I asked it lol :)
 
I guess you answered that before I asked it lol :)
you can also start introducing an enzyme to the res
I am told that Canna's cannazyme is the best on the market....it will break down the waste and re-feed it to the plant
you can use
perlite
river rock
lava rock
there are alot
I have never heard of flux from hydroton
the flux would be from seperate res
constantly mixing
along with waste
in your case just waste
 
as the plant feeds and creates waste...the ph will always swing up
flux would be up then down then up
but up swing is good
if for some reason it just drops....
that is time to pull everything and scrub and reset
 
as the plant feeds and creates waste...the ph will always swing up
flux would be up then down then up
but up swing is good
if for some reason it just drops....
that is time to pull everything and scrub and reset
it never drops, only rises, from 5.8 to 6.1 Usually in a day. I have to re ph every thing down every day, and the bucket twice. Once is because my ro water top off is high ph.
 
you can leave the ph....just monitor....if it goes above 6.5 then you bring it back down to 5.8
I apologize for not explaining that along time ago
thats my bad
Oh You mean in the table or both. Will that be the same in my rdwc?
 
yeah both
in any hydroponic system......you set it and then...let it climb......once it hits say 6.5 you then bring it back down......
also.....when you have mixed your next batch.....allow the batch to mix for about 30 min
then get a little shot glass and fill it from the res....put your ph pen in and let it sit for 5 min....then see where it sits....then adjust

ppm just wait 30 min till it is good and mixed and take a reading....ppm is pretty instant....ph takes a few minutes....it may say 5.8....you wait 5 min and it says 6.3..
I always just walk away and come back in a few and see where it is at
 
I have been watching some videos of flowering stages and a couple weeks ago I figured i would be finishing in like 10 days ,,, but man I think I could have another 3 to 4 weeks... W@hat you think?
 
sorry....this is stuff that say if we were in person you would see and catch on to but I fail to tell because it is built into my practice.....something that I forget that unless you have been doing this for a while....you wouldnt even think twice about
 
yeah both
in any hydroponic system......you set it and then...let it climb......once it hits say 6.5 you then bring it back down......
also.....when you have mixed your next batch.....allow the batch to mix for about 30 min
then get a little shot glass and fill it from the res....put your ph pen in and let it sit for 5 min....then see where it sits....then adjust

ppm just wait 30 min till it is good and mixed and take a reading....ppm is pretty instant....ph takes a few minutes....it may say 5.8....you wait 5 min and it says 6.3..
I always just walk away and come back in a few and see where it is at
Ok,,, I have been waiting a few mins to see if it moves. Thanks for the insight !
 
I have been watching some videos of flowering stages and a couple weeks ago I figured i would be finishing in like 10 days ,,, but man I think I could have another 3 to 4 weeks... W@hat you think?
I would say about 3 weeks
looking at the flowers.....you will know...the pistils will start to turn orange and curl back into itself....the flowers will start to rapidly swell....and frost will start to form....smells will become more pungent....even if the flowers dont look bigger...they usually will start to flop over some from the weight
 
sorry....this is stuff that say if we were in person you would see and catch on to but I fail to tell because it is built into my practice.....something that I forget that unless you have been doing this for a while....you wouldnt even think twice about
No Its all good, I check ppm/ PH at 6 am and at 6pm,,, so no worries.
 
You think me adding 3 ml of ph down every day is having a bad effect on my plants???? In the table?
 
Just a few pics of the runt and her sisters.... "

hookers shaking their buds all over the place, singing we will, we will,,, rock you, rock you"
I like that plant in the back corner.....flowers are lookin pumped
 
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