MendoAdome
- 216
- 28
"Creating a Seasonal Shift during Late Bloom from “Late Fall” to “Early Winter
This shift will help plants understand that their time is coming to an end. Your plants will move all remaining sugars from all other
parts of the plant to the fruit / flowers that they have been working on creating. They will ripen all fruit amd create more oil / sugar /
resin. Plants that are fully finished will have more overall weight in their fruit and flowers as well. As Plants finish up, it is natural and
expected to see “fall colors” come out in leaves. During the last 2-3 weeks we are looking for reds, yellows, and purples - this is not
to be mistaken for a “bad thing”. It is a sign that all is working as planned.
- Lower Day / Night Room Temperatures during the last three weeks
- Raise lights last two weeks
- Use a Chiller to create a “Frost” at the Root Zone
- Using Finishing Agents to aid into the final transition (ripening) phase
• Optimum Temperatures/Humidity - Day and night
Hierarchy of Factors contributing to a Larger Yield
There are many environmental factors that contribute to healthy plant growth. In general if you take care of your garden and dial in
in your environment and your nutrient scheduling, your plants will flourish. And if your plants flourish and remain healthy throughout
their entire life cycle. . .Your yield will surely rise and eventually soar. This section is concerned with Yield, not so much with other
more authentic attributes or plant / fruit / flower quality. Here is a list of factors in order from most important to least important that
contribute to final yield of fruit / flowers:
1. Light - Directly proportional to final yield. More Light = More Yield (up to a point of obvious burning.)
2. Aeration to the Root Zone - More air (O2) to the roots the better. It is almost impossible to provide too much.
3. Carbon Dioxide - CO2 can be used at up to 4X what is found at normal atmospheric levels - 1500 ppm is ideal.
4. Temperature - Keeping the temperature at 76°F - 78°F. (with 1500 ppms CO2 at 86°F is optimum.)
See below for more exact temperature measurements for each phase of growth.
5. Humidity - Keeping it between 45-65%. 65% humidity in Vegetative phase and 45-55% in Bloom Phase.
6. Nutrients - most people think this is the most important thing. It isn’t. Keep nutrient TDS (ppm) levels in check.
Make sure to NOT overdose additives. So many to choose from these days. Easy to get confused.
Creating a Seasonal Shift during Late Bloom from “Late Fall” to “Early Winter
This shift will help plants understand that their time is coming to an end. Your plants will move all remaining sugars from all other
parts of the plant to the fruit / flowers that they have been working on creating. They will ripen all fruit amd create more oil / sugar /
resin. Plants that are fully finished will have more overall weight in their fruit and flowers as well. As Plants finish up, it is natural and
expected to see “fall colors” come out in leaves. During the last 2-3 weeks we are looking for reds, yellows, and purples - this is not
to be mistaken for a “bad thing”. It is a sign that all is working as planned.
Lower Day / Night Room Temperatures during the last Three weeks.
The last three weeks should have a pronounced effect on your plants. Plants communicate through hormones and other signal
proteins. In order for them to create these crucial chemical signals indicating to the fuit and flowers to ripen, Plants need to
receive environmental cues. These cues tell them the season and let them know that it is time to finish up. By following the guides
indicating in this Info Sheet, we are creating an onslaught of cues letting them know that it is “that” time and that they need to let
the hormones fly.
Three weeks before finishing (the beginning of week 6 on an eight week Fruit / Flower cycle) Day temperatures should drop 4-5 deg.
F. from where they have been. Night-time differential should be 10 deg. F. 2 weeks before finishing wee want the Day time Temps
to be another 4-5 degrees less than week 6. Night time Differential should be 15 deg. (Around 55-60 deg. F. if possible.) For the final
week, we want Day time temperature to be 70 deg. F. and Night time temperature to be as close to 50 deg. as possible. This will help
force the plants to ripen - changing colors whenever possible, and maximizing flavor and aroma.
Raise Lights during last Two weeks
Again, to help make this seasonal shift a reality for your plants, you should raise your lights up 4-6 inches (4” for a 600 watt and 6” for
a 1000 watt,) every week for the last two weeks. This will help create more compact and dense fruit clusters while further increasing
the ripening process.
Using a Water Chiller to create a late Bloom “Frost” at the Root Zone
As said before in previous Info Sheets, it is of critical importance for a healthy root zone that water temperatures stay at 66°F - 68°F.
This does not mean that they can sometimes be between this temp zone and sometimes hotter or colder than this temperature. It is
about consistently staying at 66°F - 68°F At this level, the nutrient solution holds a good amount of oxygen within it, and the nutrient
absorption rates are still high enough for most plants. These lower water temperatures will also help promote aerobic beneficial
microbes growth and allow them to give BIG returns to your precious plants.
By lowering the water Temperature during the final two weeks, a Water Chiller may also be employed to create a “Frost” at the root
zone as well. You will help your indoor plants make a transition into late Fall and let them know that it is time to finish up for “Harvest
Time”. Assuming that you have an “eight week” fruiting / flowering plant (like most tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers - as well as
many other favorite plants are) - at the beginning of week 7, make sure to lower your water temperature from 66°F - 68°F down to
62°F - 64°F. Then again, at the beginning of week 8, lower the water temperatures down to 55°F - 57°F. For the final days, bring
the Water Chiller down to 45°F - 47°F. This will signal the plant that the first frost has arrived and that it is time to squeeze out any
remaining “juice” and send it up into the fruit and flowers. The temperatures listed here are only an indication of where you want to
actually be. All plants will respond differently. Feel free to experiment.
Temperature / Humidity CO2 Schedule for Bloom (Fruit / Flower) Stage of Plant Growth
This assumes that you have an eight week “Fruiting” plant such as most strains of tomatoes, cucumbers, or peppers - as well as many
other of your favorite plants.
Week 2-5 of Vegetative Growth
Day Temp - 76°F - 78° (86°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
- Please note if running CO2 do not up to 1500PPMS until 2nd Week
- Keep Temps at 76°F - 78°F for 1st week of Veg.
Humidity - 60-65% (unless room has powdery mildew)
CO2 Levels - 1500 ppms (after 1st week of Veg.)
Week 1-5 of Bloom (Fruit / Flower Stage)
Day Temp - 76°F - 78° (86°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
Night Temp - 70°F (79°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
Humidity - 50-55% (unless plant type likes it higher)
CO2 Levels - 1500 ppms
Week 6 of Bloom
Day Temp - 72-75°F (74-75°F with CO2 @ 700PPMS)
Night Temp - 65°F
Humidity - 50% humidity
CO2 levels - 700 ppms
Week 7 of Bloom
Day Temp - 70°F - 73°F (72°F - 74°F with CO2 @ 500-700PPMS)
Night Temp - 60°F (even 55°F if you can go this low)
Humidity - 50% (unless fear of mildew / mold - then lower to 40-45% esp. at night)
CO2 Levels - 500-700 ppms
Week 8 of Bloom (Final Week)
Day Temp - 70°F - 72°F (70°F - 72°F - with Co2 at 500ppms or TURN co2 OFF!)
Night Temp - 50°F (if you can go that low)
Humidity - 50% (unless fear of mildew / mold - then lower to 40-45% especially at night)
CO2 Levels - 500 ppms" (2015, GreenCoastHydroponics, IS-GROW-0701,Advanced Growing Methods: Pushing your Grow to the Max).
This shift will help plants understand that their time is coming to an end. Your plants will move all remaining sugars from all other
parts of the plant to the fruit / flowers that they have been working on creating. They will ripen all fruit amd create more oil / sugar /
resin. Plants that are fully finished will have more overall weight in their fruit and flowers as well. As Plants finish up, it is natural and
expected to see “fall colors” come out in leaves. During the last 2-3 weeks we are looking for reds, yellows, and purples - this is not
to be mistaken for a “bad thing”. It is a sign that all is working as planned.
- Lower Day / Night Room Temperatures during the last three weeks
- Raise lights last two weeks
- Use a Chiller to create a “Frost” at the Root Zone
- Using Finishing Agents to aid into the final transition (ripening) phase
• Optimum Temperatures/Humidity - Day and night
Hierarchy of Factors contributing to a Larger Yield
There are many environmental factors that contribute to healthy plant growth. In general if you take care of your garden and dial in
in your environment and your nutrient scheduling, your plants will flourish. And if your plants flourish and remain healthy throughout
their entire life cycle. . .Your yield will surely rise and eventually soar. This section is concerned with Yield, not so much with other
more authentic attributes or plant / fruit / flower quality. Here is a list of factors in order from most important to least important that
contribute to final yield of fruit / flowers:
1. Light - Directly proportional to final yield. More Light = More Yield (up to a point of obvious burning.)
2. Aeration to the Root Zone - More air (O2) to the roots the better. It is almost impossible to provide too much.
3. Carbon Dioxide - CO2 can be used at up to 4X what is found at normal atmospheric levels - 1500 ppm is ideal.
4. Temperature - Keeping the temperature at 76°F - 78°F. (with 1500 ppms CO2 at 86°F is optimum.)
See below for more exact temperature measurements for each phase of growth.
5. Humidity - Keeping it between 45-65%. 65% humidity in Vegetative phase and 45-55% in Bloom Phase.
6. Nutrients - most people think this is the most important thing. It isn’t. Keep nutrient TDS (ppm) levels in check.
Make sure to NOT overdose additives. So many to choose from these days. Easy to get confused.
Creating a Seasonal Shift during Late Bloom from “Late Fall” to “Early Winter
This shift will help plants understand that their time is coming to an end. Your plants will move all remaining sugars from all other
parts of the plant to the fruit / flowers that they have been working on creating. They will ripen all fruit amd create more oil / sugar /
resin. Plants that are fully finished will have more overall weight in their fruit and flowers as well. As Plants finish up, it is natural and
expected to see “fall colors” come out in leaves. During the last 2-3 weeks we are looking for reds, yellows, and purples - this is not
to be mistaken for a “bad thing”. It is a sign that all is working as planned.
Lower Day / Night Room Temperatures during the last Three weeks.
The last three weeks should have a pronounced effect on your plants. Plants communicate through hormones and other signal
proteins. In order for them to create these crucial chemical signals indicating to the fuit and flowers to ripen, Plants need to
receive environmental cues. These cues tell them the season and let them know that it is time to finish up. By following the guides
indicating in this Info Sheet, we are creating an onslaught of cues letting them know that it is “that” time and that they need to let
the hormones fly.
Three weeks before finishing (the beginning of week 6 on an eight week Fruit / Flower cycle) Day temperatures should drop 4-5 deg.
F. from where they have been. Night-time differential should be 10 deg. F. 2 weeks before finishing wee want the Day time Temps
to be another 4-5 degrees less than week 6. Night time Differential should be 15 deg. (Around 55-60 deg. F. if possible.) For the final
week, we want Day time temperature to be 70 deg. F. and Night time temperature to be as close to 50 deg. as possible. This will help
force the plants to ripen - changing colors whenever possible, and maximizing flavor and aroma.
Raise Lights during last Two weeks
Again, to help make this seasonal shift a reality for your plants, you should raise your lights up 4-6 inches (4” for a 600 watt and 6” for
a 1000 watt,) every week for the last two weeks. This will help create more compact and dense fruit clusters while further increasing
the ripening process.
Using a Water Chiller to create a late Bloom “Frost” at the Root Zone
As said before in previous Info Sheets, it is of critical importance for a healthy root zone that water temperatures stay at 66°F - 68°F.
This does not mean that they can sometimes be between this temp zone and sometimes hotter or colder than this temperature. It is
about consistently staying at 66°F - 68°F At this level, the nutrient solution holds a good amount of oxygen within it, and the nutrient
absorption rates are still high enough for most plants. These lower water temperatures will also help promote aerobic beneficial
microbes growth and allow them to give BIG returns to your precious plants.
By lowering the water Temperature during the final two weeks, a Water Chiller may also be employed to create a “Frost” at the root
zone as well. You will help your indoor plants make a transition into late Fall and let them know that it is time to finish up for “Harvest
Time”. Assuming that you have an “eight week” fruiting / flowering plant (like most tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers - as well as
many other favorite plants are) - at the beginning of week 7, make sure to lower your water temperature from 66°F - 68°F down to
62°F - 64°F. Then again, at the beginning of week 8, lower the water temperatures down to 55°F - 57°F. For the final days, bring
the Water Chiller down to 45°F - 47°F. This will signal the plant that the first frost has arrived and that it is time to squeeze out any
remaining “juice” and send it up into the fruit and flowers. The temperatures listed here are only an indication of where you want to
actually be. All plants will respond differently. Feel free to experiment.
Temperature / Humidity CO2 Schedule for Bloom (Fruit / Flower) Stage of Plant Growth
This assumes that you have an eight week “Fruiting” plant such as most strains of tomatoes, cucumbers, or peppers - as well as many
other of your favorite plants.
Week 2-5 of Vegetative Growth
Day Temp - 76°F - 78° (86°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
- Please note if running CO2 do not up to 1500PPMS until 2nd Week
- Keep Temps at 76°F - 78°F for 1st week of Veg.
Humidity - 60-65% (unless room has powdery mildew)
CO2 Levels - 1500 ppms (after 1st week of Veg.)
Week 1-5 of Bloom (Fruit / Flower Stage)
Day Temp - 76°F - 78° (86°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
Night Temp - 70°F (79°F with CO2 @ 1500PPMS)
Humidity - 50-55% (unless plant type likes it higher)
CO2 Levels - 1500 ppms
Week 6 of Bloom
Day Temp - 72-75°F (74-75°F with CO2 @ 700PPMS)
Night Temp - 65°F
Humidity - 50% humidity
CO2 levels - 700 ppms
Week 7 of Bloom
Day Temp - 70°F - 73°F (72°F - 74°F with CO2 @ 500-700PPMS)
Night Temp - 60°F (even 55°F if you can go this low)
Humidity - 50% (unless fear of mildew / mold - then lower to 40-45% esp. at night)
CO2 Levels - 500-700 ppms
Week 8 of Bloom (Final Week)
Day Temp - 70°F - 72°F (70°F - 72°F - with Co2 at 500ppms or TURN co2 OFF!)
Night Temp - 50°F (if you can go that low)
Humidity - 50% (unless fear of mildew / mold - then lower to 40-45% especially at night)
CO2 Levels - 500 ppms" (2015, GreenCoastHydroponics, IS-GROW-0701,Advanced Growing Methods: Pushing your Grow to the Max).
