Crispy first grow

[malachii]

Hi guys,

Well as the title implies this is my first grow. It's moving along, but I'm still struggling getting the nute schedule down (in pro mix). Using noname (store branded) A+B nutes. I might change that, if it's indicated here that it will help... But.... My problem is my leaves have a crispy texture. Not as lush as I imagine it should be. Should I be looking into nutes, humidity, or temps for this?

I think I've had nute deficiency recently, and have been struggling with the schedule. With promix I was told to nute each watering, and water when the pot is light... I did that, but I think since they are young, that this was not frequent enough. (e.g. don't use the 'light pot' method when so young). I'm probably 2-3 weeks into this, after sprouting from bagseeds.

Thanks!

Mal.

 

[SSHZ]

Hey Maslachii........ you have been given some bad info right off the top. Where to begin????

1. Mix 1 bale (3.8 cu.ft.) of pro mix with a) 4 cups of dolomite lime for pH adjustment, b) 1.5-2 cu.ft perlite for drainage and lightening up the mix for the roots, c) maybe 1 cup of kelp meal for water retention and micro nutes and d)1 30 lb. bag of worm castings. Mix it very well over and over. Fill your pots and water with 6.2-6.3 pH water, plain. If you got the cash, add some Great White every 10 days to your water and maybe an enzyme like cannazyme or hygrozyme to help break down the fert so roots can absorb it easier/better. This is all you should have to do the first 3 weeks, maybe longer.

Fertilizer: when the plants start to lighten up, or maybe growth slows some- start adding fert at 1/4 the recommended rate on the package. Fert once, then again the next watering and then the 3rd watering use just plain water. Use a veg (grow) fert until 2 weeks after you turn the lights back to 12/12 for flowering. Gradually increase the fert concentration. If the plants tips start to crisp/brown/burn, cut the fert back some. Then switch to bloom fert until the last 1-2 weeks. You need a high quality, HYDROPONIC fert because then you can be sure it's a "complete" fertilizer meaning it has everything in it the plant needs. A lot of store bought ferts are not complete!!!!

3. Now you'll have plenty of time to buy a few grow books and get a better handle on what your trying to accomplish...... these will help you greatly.

There are many formulas, theories, opinions on the above. And a lot of them are just as good as the above. BUT, I know for a fact if you follow the above, you'll be 100% better off than you are right now!

Feel free to ask any further questions you may have......... and remember the reward:

 

[malachii]

Wow, thanks for the detailed post - very encouraging to have helpful members on board to help out.

I should point out that I am trying to keep things as simple as humanly possible on my first grow, and next time, adding more things to improve the result. Seems reasonable to me anyhow....

So, I do have some questions about your post. I'll quote it in pieces. (awesome having somebody answer questions):

Hey Maslachii........ you have been given some bad info right off the top. Where to begin????

1. Mix 1 bale (3.8 cu.ft.) of pro mix with a) 4 cups of dolomite lime for pH adjustment,

I'm confused - my promix BX () already has lime in it. Do I need more?

b) 1.5-2 cu.ft perlite for drainage and lightening up the mix for the roots,

Same as the above - it has perlite, but you're suggesting more for the roots? I can see for drainage - my young plants had water in the pot too long I think (5+ days) without getting more nutes.

c) maybe 1 cup of kelp meal for water retention and micro nutes and
d)1 30 lb. bag of worm castings.

Now that I have small plants, should I modify my (not full) bag of promix with the above as well?

Mix it very well over and over. Fill your pots and water with 6.2-6.3 pH water, plain. If you got the cash, add some Great White every 10 days to your water and maybe an enzyme like cannazyme or hygrozyme to help break down the fert so roots can absorb it easier/better. This is all you should have to do the first 3 weeks, maybe longer.

The promix I have has Endomycorrhize in it already. Does this serve the same purpose? I thought so (e.g. regarding your enzyme suggestion). Also, I guess I should but a PH meter, huh? I've ready a few posts, and the store "guy", stated that with our 'decent' water here, the Lime in the promix means we can use tapwater successfully. I hear so much one way, and so much the other on this subject with pro-mix.

Fertilizer: when the plants start to lighten up, or maybe growth slows some- start adding fert at 1/4 the recommended rate on the package. Fert once, then again the next watering and then the 3rd watering use just plain water. Use a veg (grow) fert until 2 weeks after you turn the lights back to 12/12 for flowering. Gradually increase the fert concentration. If the plants tips start to crisp/brown/burn, cut the fert back some. Then switch to bloom fert until the last 1-2 weeks. You need a high quality, HYFROPONIC fert because then you can be sure it's a "complete" fertilizer meaning it has everything in it the plant needs. A lot of store bought ferts are not complete!!!!

I'm going to buy a complete fert tomorrow before the long weekend (all the shops locally are closing for the weekend). I'm going to try to find foxfarms if I can. I see so many people here with it, I figure getting help from others will be easier if it's a well-known product. Good call on suggesting hydroponic versions for me. I would have missed that. I guess that's because I'm not using "real" soil?

Also any other suggestions for well known ferts that I could use that are complete in case I can't locate fox farms locally?

I started my ferts (store-branded) at 1/2 strengh. Maybe even that was too strong. I think I was also waiting too long between feedings (5-6 days). Can you confirm for me that with promix (soil-less) I need to fert with each watering?

3. Now you'll have plenty of time to buy a few grow books and get a better handle on what your trying to accomplish...... these will help you greatly.

Can you suggest some? Where's the best place to buy them? I wonder if the hydroponics stores have them. Then again, I think they try to be "stealth" so probably not a good idea for them to stock it.

 

[malachii]

Oh yes - another newb question - should I spritz my plants with water, and if so, how often? By the way, I've just moved the plants into my HPS closet that I spent the last week (and way too much money) building. Maybe that changes things, I'm not sure.

 

[heshani1999]

Is it ok to move plants here and there.I think it can damage to the roots.I'm not sure about it but I think it can change somethings.

 

[SSHZ]

Hi guys.......

1. Pro mix does not have enough lime/perlite/mycorrhize in it for a 3-4 month grow. You need to add more of each to give you the best results. Lime takes a while to break down and be available so it cannot be used as something to adjust pH on the short term. They make "hydrated" lime which works quicker but it can cause numerous problems so avoid it.

2. Kelp has a bunch of micronutrients in and and can hold water. It's organic and helpful. It also can help branch out plants in flowering. I put it in the bottom half of my pots in dirt to be used up when the root (and plant) gets big enough.

3. I use Botanicare nutes...... I've tried them all. Some are fine, some aren't. I just have very good results on a consistant basis using their line of products. They are easy to find, reasonably priced if you buy the larger container. Bottom line: these work really well in pro mix.

4. I don't fertilize the 1st 3-4 weeks ever and sometimes it's 5-6 weeks before I have. Pro-mix states it has a 2 week fertilizer charge in pro mix. Because I add worm castings, kelp, more lime, etc.- I can go farther w/o fertilizing. I water every 3 days and grow in 5 gallon pots. Don't let the pots dry all the way out. Feel down a few inches in the soil and when it's dry 3-4 inches down, then water. I fertilize normally on this schedule:

Water and fertilize, 3 days later water and fertilize again and then 3 days later add just water. By the way, water quality is important. I use an r.o machine to insure good water. In time you will learn to identify when plants need more or less fertilizer by the color of the leaves. Sometimes you need to either 1) reduce your concentration of fertilizer in your water or 2) water less with fertilizer in it. This takes time to learn.

5. I don't and never have spritz plants. Maybe occasionally to rinse off dust or dirt but it's just not necessary. Definitely don't do it in flowering- it can mold the bud.

6. A good pH pen is very helpful. Check it and adjust after you add your nutrients. Buy some pH up and down at the same time. It's very helpful.

It's been many years since I've owned any of the grow books out there. I can't advise other than find one that's for indoor growing and by one of the "big" names in the grow industry. I used to buy them thru High Times....... And lastly, you will learn a lot on this site if you go to the forums and read thru posts. It's ALL here if you spend the time to find it. There are some very knowledgable growers and breeders here and less bullshit here.

 

[malachii]

SSHZ, thanks for the great reply. Do you use Promix BX? You wait 3 weeks to fert? I don't know where you found that it has nutrients for the starting - I never found such information myself when I went looking for it.

I bought myself (today) a PH test kit. Do you PH your water with promix before each watering/feeding?

You're right about this site - less BS. I was on another forum about this, and got flamed when I stated I didn't want to discuss the nutes I was using yet (because I wanted to rule out environmental factors first) -> I basically got in the middle of a nute flame war.

Thanks again.

 

[SSHZ]

1. Yes, I have use pro-mix bx for MANY years in work and play. Read the bag- it states on there no need to fertilize for at least 2 weeks. Or go to the "Premier" web site and read about it. With the other stuff I add to my planting mix, I usually don't start fertilizing until I'm in flowering......

2. pH test kits can be quite shitty and not very accurate. Yes, every time you water, with or without fertilizer, pH must be close to the 6.2-6.3 range....

 

[malachii]

1. Yes, I have use pro-mix bx for MANY years in work and play. Read the bag- it states on there no need to fertilize for at least 2 weeks. Or go to the "Premier" and read about it. With the other stuff I add to my planting mix, I usually don't start fertilizing until I'm in flowering......

2. pH test kits can be quite shitty and not very accurate. Yes, every time you water, with or without fertilizer, pH must be close to the 6.2-6.3 range....

I thought I had read all of the bag. Guess I missed that section. I bought a drop tester yesterday (not enough cash for a meter). My PH of tap water was 8. After I added the nutes I re-tested, and got 6.5. That's what I've been feeding my plants. Likely, I think that's close enough to not be the source of my problems? Also, in the past I was not airing out the water for 24 hours. This time I did. Maybe the chlorine in the water was not helping?

 

[swisscheese]

Take pics and fill out the form and post in the infirmary. It makes it easier for people to know what the problem is and help you fix it.

 

[malachii]

Take pics and fill out the form and post in the infirmary. It makes it easier for people to know what the problem is and help you fix it.

Wow, I didn't know there was such an organized method of getting help. That's great. Could you point me towards the form please? I'm not sure where to begin looking for it.

Mal.

 

[SSHZ]

Under Forum, look for cannabis infirmary...... but feel free to IM me.