Wow, thanks for the detailed post - very encouraging to have helpful members on board to help out.
I should point out that I am trying to keep things as simple as humanly possible on my first grow, and next time, adding more things to improve the result. Seems reasonable to me anyhow....
So, I do have some questions about your post. I'll quote it in pieces. (awesome having somebody answer questions):
Hey Maslachii........ you have been given some bad info right off the top. Where to begin????
1. Mix 1 bale (3.8 cu.ft.) of pro mix with a) 4 cups of dolomite lime for pH adjustment,
I'm confused - my
promix BX () already has lime in it. Do I need more?
b) 1.5-2 cu.ft perlite for drainage and lightening up the mix for the roots,
Same as the above - it has perlite, but you're suggesting more for the roots? I can see for drainage - my young plants had water in the pot too long I think (5+ days) without getting more nutes.
c) maybe 1 cup of kelp meal for water retention and micro nutes and
d)1 30 lb. bag of worm castings.
Now that I have small plants, should I modify my (not full) bag of
promix with the above as well?
Mix it very well over and over. Fill your pots and water with 6.2-6.3 pH water, plain. If you got the cash, add some
Great White every 10 days to your water and maybe an enzyme like cannazyme or
hygrozyme to help break down the fert so roots can absorb it easier/better. This is all you should have to do the first 3 weeks, maybe longer.
The
promix I have has Endomycorrhize in it already. Does this serve the same purpose? I thought so (e.g. regarding your enzyme suggestion). Also, I guess I should but a PH meter, huh? I've ready a few posts, and the store "guy", stated that with our 'decent' water here, the Lime in the
promix means we can use tapwater successfully. I hear so much one way, and so much the other on this subject with pro-mix.
Fertilizer: when the plants start to lighten up, or maybe growth slows some- start adding fert at 1/4 the recommended rate on the package. Fert once, then again the next watering and then the 3rd watering use just plain water. Use a veg (grow) fert until 2 weeks after you turn the lights back to 12/12 for flowering. Gradually increase the fert concentration. If the plants tips start to crisp/brown/burn, cut the fert back some. Then switch to bloom fert until the last 1-2 weeks. You need a high quality, HYFROPONIC fert because then you can be sure it's a "complete" fertilizer meaning it has everything in it the plant needs. A lot of store bought ferts are not complete!!!!
I'm going to buy a complete fert tomorrow before the long weekend (all the shops locally are closing for the weekend). I'm going to try to find foxfarms if I can. I see so many people here with it, I figure getting help from others will be easier if it's a well-known product. Good call on suggesting hydroponic versions for me. I would have missed that. I guess that's because I'm not using "real" soil?
Also any other suggestions for well known ferts that I could use that are complete in case I can't locate fox farms locally?
I started my ferts (store-branded) at 1/2 strengh. Maybe even that was too strong. I think I was also waiting too long between feedings (5-6 days). Can you confirm for me that with
promix (soil-less) I need to fert with each watering?
3. Now you'll have plenty of time to buy a few grow books and get a better handle on what your trying to accomplish...... these will help you greatly.
Can you suggest some? Where's the best place to buy them? I wonder if the hydroponics stores have them. Then again, I think they try to be "stealth" so probably not a good idea for them to stock it.