Current culture round two, looking for some advice on nutrients

[Gromedibud]

I recently switched to the current culture system from ebb and grow. In doing so I had to switch up my old nutrient cycle because I used advance nutrients bloom boosters with botonicare base and have heard many problems with organics and advanced in the cc.
My old ebb and grow schedule
Hydrozyme
Pro teKt
Voodoo juice
Great white
Bud blood
Big bud
Botonicare bloom
Sweet
Carboload
Overdrive

I use CO2 set at 1200ppm in a sealed room and the cc system is a 12 site xl under 3 air cooled 1000w hortilux hps. The temp is a constant 74 in the room and humidity is set at 40%. I do not run a chiller right now but with running DM zone and the rez stays at 72 i havent seen a need to yet but i may be wrong. I run NYC diesel and with my first go with this system i ran Dutch Master Gold line with liquid light following thier program exactly. I ended up with very airy buds , high yield but airy because I ran no additives. My old set up always produced rocksolid large golfball buds qlong the whole plant. For this grow I have some additives in mind and would like some advice on what has worked for others.
Nutrients:
DM gold A&B
Add .27
Zone
Liqud light
Potash+
budSwell
Emerald triangle gravity
Snow storm
Crystal burst
Sweet


This line up was suggested by my hydro store but i would like some feed back on it or if any one has some bloom enhancers they have had success with. My old system worked great and i had the nuts dialed in but i was sick of all that hydroton.

 

[hogan400]

Contact cch2o and they will guide you on the how and why with carbs and silica. That being said IMO, I would keep it entirely simple using these products you already have,
D.M, A/B
Add.27
Zone
budswell or "Overdrive" if you have it. Keep it simple gromedibud.

None of the other carbs, sweeteners in the Uc.
I would forgo the other products, many will guide you here as well.

Im going to say you should consider a chiller, by raising room temps your plants will be able to process co2 better. In fact, being that cool with co2, could have been why they were airy. Push the room to 80-84, cool the Uc to 64-67. Uc kills it as long as you keep your roots in check.

read read read.

tea is an option other than zone. I wish I had used it instead of zone but thats only my opinion. Having experienced the Uc blues of rot I will never go sterile again. If you skip the chiller, this would be the only time you will hear me recommend starting with the tea and running it full cycle. I am still new to Uc but my experience hasnt been easy, Lol.

 

[woodsmaneh]

-I would suggest the following and also ^^^^^^ Hogan is right.

keep temps around 80 in the room with lights on. 70's is great for lights off. 85 with CO2

Get your humidity up to at least 65% , at 40 your running at 1/2 plant power. Read about VPD Vapor pressure deficit!

http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/

Chiller is going to be a must unless you live in Alaska. Chillers do 2 things, keep your nutrients at 62 degrees which hold way more DO (dissolved oxygen)and keeps pathogens, root rot at bay.

Keep it simple when you start adding all kinds of stuff the CU gos sideways on you. I us DM Gold A & B, Add.25, Zone and Silica at 25% recommended. I also use Big Bud and Overdrive at 1/2 recommended. I am also a big supporter of using H2O2.

Make sure you add your nutrients in the right order! Add.25 than Zone than any adds , than your A & B.

Overdrive should fix your airy buds. Here is my current grow with the UC, 9 plants at 3 weeks.


welcome to the club

 

[Texas Kid]

I would get your room temps up as well, high 70's to evn the low 80's gets everything movin alot faster...and I would drop the water temps temps in the buckets to 65-67 degrees, your going to have problems with 72 degree water temps I promise...I would also shoot for at least 50%rh at the low end and much much higher for way better results, like in the 65-70% range.

If your goin to buy a new nute regime I would look at the Ionic or Cultured Solutions lines, 5 bottles total and I think its basically three in flower and thats it , real easy mix, ph stable, no root issues. etc..heard good things about DM but haven't used it personally...H&G kicks ass also in the UC.....I am not as big a fan of all the mix and matching in nutes as I used to be, a few here and there but not much as a rule, I get much better results and way easier to troubleshoot when there are issues. When you look at alot of these custom mixes there are alot of redundant products, costly products, and alot of time just being used outta fear of what might happen and not really addressing the issue of what causes it to happen...like all the rootzone products or stackin the shit out of all the potassium/potash/phospho products, it starts to make less and less since to me and costly as all get out

 

[Gromedibud]

Thanks for the advice. Its obvious what my problem was now. I fixed the temp and humidity and im going to be ordering a chiller asap. Was thinking of going with a chillking 2hp so i can cool the room with it too. Does anyone have experience with those and know if you can place the unit indoors. Currently I cool the room with a window unit that is through the wall and it heats up my basement like crazy.

 

[woodsmaneh]

chillers live outside for best operation, some people put them inside, but do not put it in the same room as your plants as it generates heat. Sure you can cool your room with it 2 companies make 6 and 8" coolers for light tubes or just stick a fan on them and chill the room. Go buy a rad and hook it up, buy a fan and away you go.

go read some of the posts in the heating cooling section, there are a few people who know there stuff real good.

 

[hogan400]

Yeah, you can "chill em all" with that beast. You will notice a completely dif grow this time!!
Good luck