De-Leafing while flowering questions

  • Thread starter superhighme
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superhighme

superhighme

22
8
Hey farmers.
Can someone give me some advice on how often I should deleaf while the plant is flowering and how much leaves do I take off ect...
Thanks in advance :)
 
pussOGbrah

pussOGbrah

220
63
pluck the bigger fan leaves to your preference once around day 30-35 flowr. experiment with how much you take off to find the sweet spot. your basically just opening your girl up to more light and airflow
 
cauldron

cauldron

27
3
lollipop them. a fan leaf at the bottom of your plant is useless. the closer the fan leaves are to your buds/bud sites the more vital they are. after that, remove any leaves that are preventing buds from getting direct light. buds have chlorplasts too!
 
OctoberDee

OctoberDee

785
93
Take off the dying leaves and tuck the larger fan leaves down. Don't remove too many healthy leaves at once, not more than 10% in one sitting. Unless they're dead or obstructing light the plant needs those leaves, just not all of them. I would say the bottom leaves that are small are pretty useless and can be removed without too much prejudice.
 
OGONLY

OGONLY

752
63
I've been removing more fans than I used to in the past with great results. Anything that gets too big and begins to obstruct a quality budsite gets cut. I try to keep up with this by removing a leaf or 2 per plant each night so I don't have to remove too many at once.

Yield has not suffered and bud quality has gotten better.
 
Camnibus

Camnibus

62
8
Chop off them big ole nasty fan leaves, I'm certain they grow those for no reason. :confused:
 
MarijuanaBaybee

MarijuanaBaybee

641
43
member we aint puffin the leaf :cool: but be cautious when removin leafs tough cuzzz i remember i fuked up n removed to many leafs on some plants my first cupl times once...but the reason i did it is cuzz i had too cuz i didint want to loose my crop and ontop of that it (1) it was my first time ever flowering a plant, none the less i pulled it off, but once u do it a few times ull get the hang of it and ull be flying tru ur garden in no time n you will more less get a visual of how u want ur plant to be shaped n ull get that feeling of when u should removed the big water leaf. my rule of thumb is not to take 2 many just enuff, And if the leaf is coverin the top of a bud site it either gets pluked off or its tuked underneath but once it gets to big and perks bak up and starts covering another top or budsites it get pluked .....well about to pufff a blunt of some sour dezzzy n hope that my method to madness to removal of leafs helps out, im sure that what ever u decide to do will work out goodluck on ur adventure :D
 
J

Jalisco Kid

Guest
I go along with post #4. Leaves hold valuable nutes in reserve. Growing large plants allow you to pull more leaves with less harm. Tucking leaves and moving branches will allow airflow. trimming a plant in veg clearing the first 10" of the branch will allow more air flow up thru the plant. This helps circulate air and co2 to the plant. JK
 
cauldron

cauldron

27
3
leaves don't hold nutrient reserves, stems do. buds are able to produce up to 30% of their own carbohydrates through photosynthesis.

Effect of Pruning on the Yield and Quality of Kinnow Fruit

The Photosynthetic Activity of Cox's Orange Pippin Apple Flowers in Relation to Fruit Setting

the above links to peer reviewed scientific journal articles aren't the most comparable to cannabis, but there isn't much peer reviewed content out there as far as MJ goes. the concept is relatively simple and so is the physiology behind it, so when you consider the following testimonies, the evidence is pretty conclusive:

"I SCROG for an even canopy and remove energy wasting leaves; IMO defoliating/pruning/de-leafing is more about energy management than light penetration. Plants aren't aware we're there to manage their canopy for them, and so use vital energy to branch out and produce those big fan leaves. "

"I'll be honest. I used to think it sacrelige to remove beautiful looking leaves. Not to mention there seems to be a blank spot when you first do it. It is common practice in many species to remove leaves to promote fruit/flower growth. (another thing I didn't know....until i started growing vegetables) One of the more extreme cases I can think of off hand is brussel sprouts. In some climates you will not get sprouts without topping the plant and removing nearly all of the leaves. Even in zones where this is not necessary, gardeners remove nearly all of the leaves to "promote fruit growth." By removing the large leaves that take an enormous amount of energy to support the plant is able to "concentrate" on the smaller leaves it takes to make the sprout.

Now none of that has a damn thing to do with MJ, but once tested it is hard to argue with. Now some stretchier strains have plenty of room for buds to get light and ventilation. I agree that there is no need to remove leaves from these strains. Other strains that grow very dense do not only benefit from the extra light they receive, but also benefit from the increased circulation."

"If a top or branch is running away (getting too tall) I cut it. Once my space is full, I switch the lights. Once a week, I remove each plant so that it can be cleaned up. At this point I remove any leaves that are 50% dead. Next I place the plant in its home, give it a quarter turn, and remove any big leaves that are shading buds. I also look for leaves that are lying directly on top of other leaves, as leaves left in direct contact with each other do not do so well. If a leaf is lying on a bud, I do not tuck it, I pull it because it usually seems to pin itself against another bud. (another thing I don't want)

Sometimes in a weeks time, so many smaller leaves will become shade leaves that I do not pull them all. I like to remove shade leaves but not to the point of causing major stress. This is why I prune each week. It allows me to pull a couple of leaves and give the plant time to recharge."

"I consider de-leafing an advanced technique, and should be left to the pro's. If you are new to growing, use the K.I.S.S. ( keep it simple stoner) method, until you feel comfortable with pruning and de-leafing. Its all in the eyes of the beholder, it takes many many years of cultivating to get an eye for the plant. You need to read your plants, they will tell you what the want.

If your leaves are dying or yellowing, that tells me that you have a deficiency, and your plant is eating itself. Do not remove it. Let the leaf fall off by itself, it needs the nutrients stored up in the leaf. Larger leaves take more energy to maintain themselves, and will rob nutrients from the buds. By removing the large fan/ shade leaves, it forces the feeder leaves to grow larger. Larger feeder leaves = larger buds. I do most of my pruning and de leafing in veg, to allow the plant to recoup. before Bud. I also prune and de-leaf at week 3 Bud, and again when I start my flush. That opens up the plant to give maximum light to the bud sites. The more light the more sugar. Think of the sugar as sunscreen, the more light hitting the bud the more trichome will be produced. If leaves are blocking the light the less trichome the bud will produce. "

"With the wisdom of over 30 indoor crops of the same strain, in the same environment...

After several mistakes with indoor watering schedules, I have had plants (about half way through flowering) lose the Majority of their leaves!! In the end, the flowers were almost as fat and tight as the plants which survived the drought..

In a super intensely lit indoor environment, with no cloudy days, plants receive ample light. Heck, there is practically enough photosynthesis going on in the green buds alone!! Big shady fan leaves are redundant, and not necessary in a properly lit indoor environment!!

Yes, I prune fan leaves, especially those closest to the bulbs, mercilessly!!

Be strategic though! You don't want to remove them in such a way as to allow light to pass right through a plant and hit something that isn't green (ie: pots, soil, floor, wall). As long as all of the light is hitting some part of the plant, what's the problem?? Even distribution of light, throughout the plant, is the aim...."
 
cauldron

cauldron

27
3
edit: leaves don't hold nutrient reserves, roots and stems do.
 
El Cerebro

El Cerebro

1,197
113
I hear over on riu they take away your membership if you're caught pruning.
 
jkar_928

jkar_928

79
8
the plants use the fan leaves to absorb light and convert it to nutrients never take off healthy leaves
 
BlueBlood

BlueBlood

52
8
I'm personally pro-pruning.

It depends on your style too, though. I use a relatively dense planting pattern, a bit less than what would probably be considered a SoG. I'll take off nodes evenly from the bottom as they grow new ones on top, from rooted clone all the way through stretch. Depending on the size of the leaves and the node spacing of the particular cultivar, I'll leave anywhere from 5 to 12 nodes on top. Its more important to pay attention to your light penetration, though. You should leave enough that is pretty dark-ish underneath your canopy. Whatever that number turns out to be, use it.

As long as you take them off evenly, and you wait a few days in between, you won't be screwing with your plant's metabolism, and she won't mind a bit.
 
ziplock

ziplock

90
33
leaves don't hold nutrient reserves, stems do. buds are able to produce up to 30% of their own carbohydrates through photosynthesis.

Effect of Pruning on the Yield and Quality of Kinnow Fruit

The Photosynthetic Activity of Cox's Orange Pippin Apple Flowers in Relation to Fruit Setting

the above links to peer reviewed scientific journal articles aren't the most comparable to cannabis, but there isn't much peer reviewed content out there as far as MJ goes. the concept is relatively simple and so is the physiology behind it, so when you consider the following testimonies, the evidence is pretty conclusive:

"I SCROG for an even canopy and remove energy wasting leaves; IMO defoliating/pruning/de-leafing is more about energy management than light penetration. Plants aren't aware we're there to manage their canopy for them, and so use vital energy to branch out and produce those big fan leaves. "

"I'll be honest. I used to think it sacrelige to remove beautiful looking leaves. Not to mention there seems to be a blank spot when you first do it. It is common practice in many species to remove leaves to promote fruit/flower growth. (another thing I didn't know....until i started growing vegetables) One of the more extreme cases I can think of off hand is brussel sprouts. In some climates you will not get sprouts without topping the plant and removing nearly all of the leaves. Even in zones where this is not necessary, gardeners remove nearly all of the leaves to "promote fruit growth." By removing the large leaves that take an enormous amount of energy to support the plant is able to "concentrate" on the smaller leaves it takes to make the sprout.

Now none of that has a damn thing to do with MJ, but once tested it is hard to argue with. Now some stretchier strains have plenty of room for buds to get light and ventilation. I agree that there is no need to remove leaves from these strains. Other strains that grow very dense do not only benefit from the extra light they receive, but also benefit from the increased circulation."

"If a top or branch is running away (getting too tall) I cut it. Once my space is full, I switch the lights. Once a week, I remove each plant so that it can be cleaned up. At this point I remove any leaves that are 50% dead. Next I place the plant in its home, give it a quarter turn, and remove any big leaves that are shading buds. I also look for leaves that are lying directly on top of other leaves, as leaves left in direct contact with each other do not do so well. If a leaf is lying on a bud, I do not tuck it, I pull it because it usually seems to pin itself against another bud. (another thing I don't want)

Sometimes in a weeks time, so many smaller leaves will become shade leaves that I do not pull them all. I like to remove shade leaves but not to the point of causing major stress. This is why I prune each week. It allows me to pull a couple of leaves and give the plant time to recharge."

"I consider de-leafing an advanced technique, and should be left to the pro's. If you are new to growing, use the K.I.S.S. ( keep it simple stoner) method, until you feel comfortable with pruning and de-leafing. Its all in the eyes of the beholder, it takes many many years of cultivating to get an eye for the plant. You need to read your plants, they will tell you what the want.

If your leaves are dying or yellowing, that tells me that you have a deficiency, and your plant is eating itself. Do not remove it. Let the leaf fall off by itself, it needs the nutrients stored up in the leaf. Larger leaves take more energy to maintain themselves, and will rob nutrients from the buds. By removing the large fan/ shade leaves, it forces the feeder leaves to grow larger. Larger feeder leaves = larger buds. I do most of my pruning and de leafing in veg, to allow the plant to recoup. before Bud. I also prune and de-leaf at week 3 Bud, and again when I start my flush. That opens up the plant to give maximum light to the bud sites. The more light the more sugar. Think of the sugar as sunscreen, the more light hitting the bud the more trichome will be produced. If leaves are blocking the light the less trichome the bud will produce. "

"With the wisdom of over 30 indoor crops of the same strain, in the same environment...

After several mistakes with indoor watering schedules, I have had plants (about half way through flowering) lose the Majority of their leaves!! In the end, the flowers were almost as fat and tight as the plants which survived the drought..

In a super intensely lit indoor environment, with no cloudy days, plants receive ample light. Heck, there is practically enough photosynthesis going on in the green buds alone!! Big shady fan leaves are redundant, and not necessary in a properly lit indoor environment!!

Yes, I prune fan leaves, especially those closest to the bulbs, mercilessly!!

Be strategic though! You don't want to remove them in such a way as to allow light to pass right through a plant and hit something that isn't green (ie: pots, soil, floor, wall). As long as all of the light is hitting some part of the plant, what's the problem?? Even distribution of light, throughout the plant, is the aim...."
A late reply, but I wanted to say Thanks. Your reason seems sound. I'm into my 10th grow indoors, and my babies are finally looking like the better pics on the site. It all seems to be about discretion. It's never cut-and-dried. ;)
 
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