Deep Cleaning Do's And Dont's

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Allan419

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Sorry if this is already on the forums someplace. I have been searching and searching and can not seem to get a straight answer. Maybe I have but my brain is scrambled from too much studying.

I have to do a total clean up and restart due to losing a russet mite war and I could use some help.

All plants have been culled.

I've read in a lot of places that heat treatments are very effective. 120F for an hour is supposed to kill russets and their eggs. Can anyone validate this? If it does in fact work would a one hour 130F soak of pots and soil kill bad guys in the dirt and leave beneficial bacteria alive? It would not be a full sterilization of the soil, just a russet/egg killing water bath.

Isopropyl: I read many different opinions of this as a killer of bug/eggs. I would like to use this, if it works, to treat the gear that can't be easily rinsed of residue like ballasts, bulbs, etc. Does it kill russets and eggs and at what strength would I have to use?

Bleach: I read that bleach is an effective killer of russets and eggs. I'd like to use this on walls, floors, and other hard surfaces that don't necessarily need to be rinsed. Does it work and at what concentration would I need?

Vacuuming: I have a pretty solid Shark vacuum that has three filters, Two layers of foam filter incoming air and a very tight folded filter gets the exiting air. Will this be effective to clean rugs, corners (before or maybe after bleach spray), and suck up dust (and mites and eggs).

My treatments so far:
Azamax (strong mix) foliar sprays applied four times to the plants over a twelve day run. I soaked them well. I also did an Az soild drench halfway through. I used Hot Shot Foggers (Tetramethrin...0.20%, Cypermethrin...0.86%, Piperonyl butoxide...0.50%) 2x spaced one week apart. At what I'd hoped was the end of the treatment regime I rinsed the ladies with water only the when dry hit them thoroughly with Bayer Advanced 3-in-one Disease and Mite Control (Imidacloprid - 0.47%, Tau-Fluvalinate - 0.61%, Tebuconazole - 0.65%)

After all of that the plants looked like hell (they looked like hell at the start also) and I still found very active russets on them, not many, but they were there. I made the decision to cull the crop and start over.

I have read a lot about homemade remedies using essential oils, peppers, garlic, you name it. I have a tough time believing this would do much after the russets have survived my treatment.

Input from anyone who knows some facts would be greatly appreciated. I'd rather not get a bunch of just suspects, guesses, heard about's, etc.

Thanks in advance for any help. I'm frustrated, pissed, sad, confused... I have just lost years of breading.

Peace.
 
str8smokn

str8smokn

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I'm sorry for your misfortunes,I have never had to deal with that so I couldn't help you.
I would think a good bleach or Alcohol bath on equipment,walls,floor,cracks . Would clean the room maybe even a bug bomb.
You can cook your soil over a fire or in the oven ( but I'm sure it stinks) it will probably kill off beanies,but you can replenish those.
I would probably scrap the plants myself,just for safety's sake.
Hope it works out for you..
STR8
 
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Allan419

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I'm sorry for your misfortunes,I have never had to deal with that so I couldn't help you.
I would think a good bleach or Alcohol bath on equipment,walls,floor,cracks . Would clean the room maybe even a bug bomb.
You can cook your soil over a fire or in the oven ( but I'm sure it stinks) it will probably kill off beanies,but you can replenish those.
I would probably scrap the plants myself,just for safety's sake.
Hope it works out for you..
STR8

Thanks for your thoughts. I have scrapped the plants already. Here is a shot why they have now been killed. They do not recover well from russet mites, even worse at recovery if the enemy is broad mites. Could still use some solid experienced based help. Peace.
The life tracker 003
 
pugliese63

pugliese63

297
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Looks like your on top of it. Sorry to see your loss.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bifen-it-p-226.html

Coat your walls and floors with Bifen, all non plant contact surfaces. Combine it with an IGR, insect growth regulator. This is how you break the reproductive cycle. The key to staying preventive.



No need to do the high heat treatment if you go this route. Do it every 4 to 6 months. Use the same treatment outside your grow area as well. This is especially important as it sets up a perimeter of protection.

I've dealt with mites over the years and know how devastating they can be. After a lot of research this is pretty much the system I use. It's effective as well as preventive. I've been using this approach for several years and rarely ever have any issues or have to treat any of my plants.

Front end preventive work will yield hours of pleasure in your garden. Hope this is of some benefit.

Good luck.
 
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Allan419

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Looks like your on top of it. Sorry to see your loss.

http://www.domyownpestcontrol.com/bifen-it-p-226.html

Coat your walls and floors with Bifen, all non plant contact surfaces. Combine it with an IGR, insect growth regulator. This is how you break the reproductive cycle. The key to staying preventive.



No need to do the high heat treatment if you go this route. Do it every 4 to 6 months. Use the same treatment outside your grow area as well. This is especially important as it sets up a perimeter of protection.

I've dealt with mites over the years and know how devastating they can be. After a lot of research this is pretty much the system I use. It's effective as well as preventive. I've been using this approach for several years and rarely ever have any issues or have to treat any of my plants.

Front end preventive work will yield hours of pleasure in your garden. Hope this is of some benefit.

Good luck.

Good inf. Why would the Bifen not be used in veg?
 
jammie

jammie

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Get a professional exterminator. I had mite problems last year. They did 2 interior and exterior treatments 2 months apart and that solved the mite, exterior ant and every critter within 50 ft of my house. If your in the US, check out home advisor or Angie's list for a deal. I think I paid $60 or so and I knew I wasn't going to toxify my pets or myself by getting a professional
 
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Allan419

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Get a professional exterminator. I had mite problems last year. They did 2 interior and exterior treatments 2 months apart and that solved the mite, exterior ant and every critter within 50 ft of my house. If your in the US, check out home advisor or Angie's list for a deal. I think I paid $60 or so and I knew I wasn't going to toxify my pets or myself by getting a professional

It would be a little tricky to have an outside person working in my grow. Even though there are no plants in it it is pretty obvious what it is and I don't want strangers to know that.

Any idea what chemicals were used?
 
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Allan419

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I seem to not be getting much of the inf. I hoped to get in my original post. I know there are many, many ideas and other tested procedures but what I really want to know is are there flaws in my plan from the first post.

Thanks for the input and ideas but I can't do them all.
 
shemshemet

shemshemet

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Please DO NOT use bifen like that. Use pesticides ONLY as the labels describes.

In most cases.....Scratch that.

IN ALL CASES IN WHICH A CHEMICAL HAS A PESTICIDE LABEL DO NOT USE IT ON YOUR CANNABIS GARDEN.

I will amend this with saying: Horticultural oils, soaps, do not belong in this category.

NO pesticide was designed to use with cannabis. It is harmful to our environment and society when so much work goes into making sure these chemicals are safe to use. There are too many factors, for any person taking internet advice on pesticide use, to determine if the use of the product is safe.

I just don't think hobby farmers should fuck with any of this.

Edit: Borax over bleach, any and every day.
 
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Allan419

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Please DO NOT use bifen like that. Use pesticides ONLY as the labels describes.

In most cases.....Scratch that.

IN ALL CASES IN WHICH A CHEMICAL HAS A PESTICIDE LABEL DO NOT USE IT ON YOUR CANNABIS GARDEN.

I will amend this with saying: Horticultural oils, soaps, do not belong in this category.

NO pesticide was designed to use with cannabis. It is harmful to our environment and society when so much work goes into making sure these chemicals are safe to use. There are too many factors, for any person taking internet advice on pesticide use, to determine if the use of the product is safe.

I just don't think hobby farmers should fuck with any of this.

Edit: Borax over bleach, any and every day.

I agree for the most part. Would you include pyrethrum and neem as pesticides?

I have been studying how to clear up this problem for days and there are plenty of differing opinions.

I would like to avoid pesticides going forward. It seems that predators can be partially effective if started early enough.

I've read of people using pepper juice, lemon juice, essential oils and on and on and they claim effectiveness but then you see them posting a month later that the BORG are back.

The only folks I've found that claim total victory over russet and broads are using Forbid and Avid. Heavy duty! I don't want to go there.

Of course there are plenty of people claiming victory using just soapy water also but the vast majority that I've seen have turned to the big guns to get these very difficult garden destroyers.

What would your system be to clear a russet mite infestation be and how would you prevent another one?

Thanks. Peace.
 
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jammie

jammie

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No idea what the exterminator used. I did clean up beforehand but the lights and buckets probably gave it away. He didn't ask and I didn't say anything except I had a bug infestation in the basement
 
pugliese63

pugliese63

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Good inf. Why would the Bifen not be used in veg?

Bifen is only for floors and other surfaces that do not come onto contact with plants. It is not for directly treating plants. It is a preventive step only. Bifen along with Cyfluthrin are both widely used by professional exterminators. Both are used in food preparation facilities as well as dairies. Again let me stress that it is only for areas that do not come into contact with plants, not for spraying on your plants. It is strictly a preventive step. My apologies for any confusion or misrepresentation of the correct application.
Using preventive measures I rarely, if ever, have to treat any of my plants directly.
As far as direct applications to the plants themselves I only use pyrethrum (pH adjusted to 5.5) along with a little canola oil. Nothing else. Again, through preventive measures, I rarely have the need to directly treat my plants.
Regarding your original post it seems you have taken adequate steps to deal with your problem.
Also, for general cleaning look into getting a small bottle of Physan 20. It's a very good product used frequently in the horticultural industry.
Hope everything goes well from here.
 
mendo local

mendo local

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I'm curious too as to what strength bleach will kill broads and eggs on contact for sure....
 
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Allan419

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Bifen is only for floors and other surfaces that do not come onto contact with plants. It is not for directly treating plants. It is a preventive step only. Bifen along with Cyfluthrin are both widely used by professional exterminators. Both are used in food preparation facilities as well as dairies. Again let me stress that it is only for areas that do not come into contact with plants, not for spraying on your plants. It is strictly a preventive step. My apologies for any confusion or misrepresentation of the correct application.
Using preventive measures I rarely, if ever, have to treat any of my plants directly.
As far as direct applications to the plants themselves I only use pyrethrum (pH adjusted to 5.5) along with a little canola oil. Nothing else. Again, through preventive measures, I rarely have the need to directly treat my plants.
Regarding your original post it seems you have taken adequate steps to deal with your problem.
Also, for general cleaning look into getting a small bottle of Physan 20. It's a very good product used frequently in the horticultural industry.
Hope everything goes well from here.

I understand what you are saying. Thanks for the input. Peace.
 
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Allan419

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No 'cide' is labeled for use with cannabis. That doesn't mean it necessarily is a bad thing, it just means that, legally speaking, you've gone outside the purview so to speak.

I understand. Thanks!

You seem to be pretty active on the boards here. Do you happen to know if isopropyl will kill russet mites and their eggs? I can't seem to get a straight answer after days of looking and asking.

Peace and Good Health.
 
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Allan419

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No idea what the exterminator used. I did clean up beforehand but the lights and buckets probably gave it away. He didn't ask and I didn't say anything except I had a bug infestation in the basement

Interesting. I live in too small of a gossipy town to risk that but thanks for your thoughts. Peace.
 
GrowGod

GrowGod

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I understand. Thanks!

You seem to be pretty active on the boards here. Do you happen to know if isopropyl will kill russet mites and their eggs? I can't seem to get a straight answer after days of looking and asking.

Peace and Good Health.
Why not try it out on some RM's and get back to us:D
 
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Allan419

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Why not try it out on some RM's and get back to us:D

Good suggestion. I did save a baggie of infested leaves for that purpose but I've been unable to locate live RM's on them now. Maybe the treatments, and the delayed action of the Azamax, I have given have killed more that I originally thought.

I do see what I think are eggs on the saved leaves, still moist in the baggie, but I can't tell if they are still viable. I will keep looking though and let you know what I learn.

Does anyone know how to tell if an egg is still alive? I can't seem to find this inf. after many hours of searching.

I sure wish someone who has already done this experiment would chime in because I don't feel I can begin the big cleanup plan without knowing it will work.

Peace.
 
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