T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
Help woke to find my girls struggling
iKharon
- 843
- 143
Light? Media? Nutes/feeding? Last fed/watered? Distance from light?
T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
400 w dual HPS coco coir canna a+b in the pic she was watered at just before lights out
iKharon
- 843
- 143
How close is that light?.. almost looks like a burn
T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
It sits quite cool though and the spots r on the lower growth too so I didn't think it would be light burn what you think
iKharon
- 843
- 143
Shouldn't be bad.. what's temp at canopy? You have a fan blowing across them?
iKharon
- 843
- 143
Are the leaves nice and green or have some yellowing.. hard to tell in pic with the light
iKharon
- 843
- 143
If it's not a burn, I would almost guess potassium abundance..
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Better pix would help, but generally, necrosis forming from the leaf tips back can indicate a -P. If the petioles are reddened then it's definitely a -P and needs to be addressed as it's progressing.
T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
How do I stop it
GT21
I like soup
Supporter
- 10,114
- 438
Probably just need to fix your ph
T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
Hi gave them a good flush yesterday the look healthier I know the bad spots won't clear up but there is no new bad spots so I think dropping the pH done the trick thanks
hermit186
- 335
- 63
Is this your first time in coco you have -p as seamaden says but I believe your going to get the -C next.
Coco you need to read seas posts on Cal/mag deficiencies and in coco you don't have a choise you are starting in the hole for C and if you treat with cal/mag then the extra N that comes with cal/mag will take till the middle of your veg and N tox will show it's self .
Read some of cocojoe's posts I have read most about coco.
Coco is a good media but there are others. Coco is a way to remove veriables that cause Definicies.
You don't have to wonder what is in it, NOTHING. Everything must come from you.
I rinse my new coco in a mixture of cal25 and MOST from peters.
The quanties are strain dependant.
Here is where you will not pay dues I will warn you it's not the quanties but how you mix can cause you greef. My coco comes in bricks so I have to hydrate. do it with Ph at about 5.6 water I have RO.
Let stand 24 hrs till the mixture is at right mix to use then add the Cal25 and MOST.
If you add to the dry coco you will have hot spots and the mess I created took sea and cocojoe
telling what was wrong with the plants several times I played chase my tail.
You have to be very careful with MOST as it takes very little and the ca25 is a bit expensive.
If your going to stay with the snake oil for nutrients. I hope you own a piece of the rock.
PK 13/14 you will have better results with MOAB.
You need better pictures back off a bit and move that light to a min of 24in above, your plants a very green even in intense light to much N.
Coco you need to read seas posts on Cal/mag deficiencies and in coco you don't have a choise you are starting in the hole for C and if you treat with cal/mag then the extra N that comes with cal/mag will take till the middle of your veg and N tox will show it's self .
Read some of cocojoe's posts I have read most about coco.
Coco is a good media but there are others. Coco is a way to remove veriables that cause Definicies.
You don't have to wonder what is in it, NOTHING. Everything must come from you.
I rinse my new coco in a mixture of cal25 and MOST from peters.
The quanties are strain dependant.
Here is where you will not pay dues I will warn you it's not the quanties but how you mix can cause you greef. My coco comes in bricks so I have to hydrate. do it with Ph at about 5.6 water I have RO.
Let stand 24 hrs till the mixture is at right mix to use then add the Cal25 and MOST.
If you add to the dry coco you will have hot spots and the mess I created took sea and cocojoe
telling what was wrong with the plants several times I played chase my tail.
You have to be very careful with MOST as it takes very little and the ca25 is a bit expensive.
If your going to stay with the snake oil for nutrients. I hope you own a piece of the rock.
PK 13/14 you will have better results with MOAB.
You need better pictures back off a bit and move that light to a min of 24in above, your plants a very green even in intense light to much N.
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
Yes, and you can bring down the pH (this is coir, not soil, big differences between the two) and add the Ca at the same time.
T
Thc4life
- 23
- 3
No problem what pH should I be shooting for 5.5 or 5.8
hermit186
- 335
- 63
Start now and learn the Cal and mag one is Epsom salt the other is cal25 or even 9.7%calcium EDTA.
customhydronutrients.com The cal 25 that I only use for foliar spray it's like calling in the heat in baseball.
Now that I have learned coco I strongly recommend you never put a cal/mag on unless there is a problem with both at the same time. Coco is strange and you almost don't need to flush more than twice once at flip and once at the end.
Coco doesn't retain nutrients like any other media and my coco is watered 3 times a day for a short amount of time.
I use drip to drain because I use jacks and rest is bought here or thru people here. My cost per grow 20 to 25 plants is $117.00 not including light bill. Think about what some of these nuts sell here. All tried and tested for years and if the guys here were getting rich off us then they wouldn't still be here. I grew with Canna long time back dose it grow good weed yes it dose. Can you grow better with out it DAMN RIGHT.
If you have your weed in a position to sit in flooded coco for more than 15 min weed hates wet roots. Your pots if they have catch pans and the nutrients are allowed to sit there in a small puddle doesn't sound like much but you will find what chasing your tail is like.
Some of this might not fit your grow to the letter but coco is what coco is I use 2 canna products to this day Riso and czime they work and a bottle last me 8 grows.
One more I will try to save you in coco you get roots that die off continually and adding an enzyme to dissolve them is a must. They will return to haunt you when you add your flower chemistry to the mix. I add my root eaters at 10 days before flip second at 5 days . If you go into flower with a bunch of old root material you will not be able to control your PH. It will look a lot like normal plant eating it's self only it's not. My plants look good a bit of yellow fan leaves but not nearly dead and droping off it that happens it not the plant it's your passed chemistry catching up with you.
I grow in a conex so heat and light to plant is very important hold your hand 6 in above your plant under the light if it's hot to your hand it's hot to plant.
If you move a weed into a very controlled environment it's very hard to grow.
Your question PH in coco should move between 5.7 or .8 up to 6.1 to .2
slowely in my case with RO water ph about 7
With jacks when I finish my mix is 5.6 .8 and it walks up slowly when the mix runs out 4 days later is 6.0
Keep notes think baseball keep all the numbers when I check my room twice a day. I right down ph,ppm.temp,humidity, I also test run off. In the end I graphed it all. Do I still have problems you bet.
Seldom is it serious I see it coming and change my chemistry a little.
Aspirin use right is wonderful.
I used to think fat man used drugs but I add CaCl2 to my mix now.
I am not a BIO grower but they are here and I don't have bug problems or mold or fungus.
Conex is closed environment I trap that at the door with bleach and a Lab coat.
Ponder what is riding past your plants on your pants after playing football in the yard.
I stopped misting my plants and got a forth hand paint sprayer that fogs wonderful and always after the lights go out let it sit and dry over night.
Why so much babbling because I learn it all right here reading and the list would be way to long so THE GAL'S and GUY's here.
Last the only dumb question was the unasked one. Few here keep score.
customhydronutrients.com The cal 25 that I only use for foliar spray it's like calling in the heat in baseball.
Now that I have learned coco I strongly recommend you never put a cal/mag on unless there is a problem with both at the same time. Coco is strange and you almost don't need to flush more than twice once at flip and once at the end.
Coco doesn't retain nutrients like any other media and my coco is watered 3 times a day for a short amount of time.
I use drip to drain because I use jacks and rest is bought here or thru people here. My cost per grow 20 to 25 plants is $117.00 not including light bill. Think about what some of these nuts sell here. All tried and tested for years and if the guys here were getting rich off us then they wouldn't still be here. I grew with Canna long time back dose it grow good weed yes it dose. Can you grow better with out it DAMN RIGHT.
If you have your weed in a position to sit in flooded coco for more than 15 min weed hates wet roots. Your pots if they have catch pans and the nutrients are allowed to sit there in a small puddle doesn't sound like much but you will find what chasing your tail is like.
Some of this might not fit your grow to the letter but coco is what coco is I use 2 canna products to this day Riso and czime they work and a bottle last me 8 grows.
One more I will try to save you in coco you get roots that die off continually and adding an enzyme to dissolve them is a must. They will return to haunt you when you add your flower chemistry to the mix. I add my root eaters at 10 days before flip second at 5 days . If you go into flower with a bunch of old root material you will not be able to control your PH. It will look a lot like normal plant eating it's self only it's not. My plants look good a bit of yellow fan leaves but not nearly dead and droping off it that happens it not the plant it's your passed chemistry catching up with you.
I grow in a conex so heat and light to plant is very important hold your hand 6 in above your plant under the light if it's hot to your hand it's hot to plant.
If you move a weed into a very controlled environment it's very hard to grow.
Your question PH in coco should move between 5.7 or .8 up to 6.1 to .2
slowely in my case with RO water ph about 7
With jacks when I finish my mix is 5.6 .8 and it walks up slowly when the mix runs out 4 days later is 6.0
Keep notes think baseball keep all the numbers when I check my room twice a day. I right down ph,ppm.temp,humidity, I also test run off. In the end I graphed it all. Do I still have problems you bet.
Seldom is it serious I see it coming and change my chemistry a little.
Aspirin use right is wonderful.
I used to think fat man used drugs but I add CaCl2 to my mix now.
I am not a BIO grower but they are here and I don't have bug problems or mold or fungus.
Conex is closed environment I trap that at the door with bleach and a Lab coat.
Ponder what is riding past your plants on your pants after playing football in the yard.
I stopped misting my plants and got a forth hand paint sprayer that fogs wonderful and always after the lights go out let it sit and dry over night.
Why so much babbling because I learn it all right here reading and the list would be way to long so THE GAL'S and GUY's here.
Last the only dumb question was the unasked one. Few here keep score.
F
FooDoo
- 1,278
- 263
I purchased calcium carbonate (limestone) powder for super cheap. I think it's like 40% ca with something like a %70+ water solubility. I just ph my water down to 4.0 to help the calcium dissolve then ph up.
I foliar spray this and once everything is dried I see absolutely no residue left over on the leaves.
I foliar spray this and once everything is dried I see absolutely no residue left over on the leaves.
Seamaiden
Living dead girl
- 23,596
- 638
A range. 5.8-6.2, 6.0 is usually the sweet spot for the majority of strains.
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