H
hydrodreams
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I use those cheap under cabinet flourescent lights they sell at Walmart, I usually get 98 out of 100 to take in a couple days, humidity is key, to much, you'll kill it, not enough, you'll slow it down
Why will to much humidity kill it? I think even Aquaman who is a staff here said that 100% is ok besides other people....
Algae growth and root rot
I use a single t5 fluorescent about 3 ft from the dome, My last try I was 100% I prepared the cutting using then using Clonex on it and a drop in the hole in small solo cup with saturated Promix,I noticed that most people say light is a side-issue when trying to make cuts to root. In some forums I even read that you could make a cut root without any light at all or any ambient light-no matter how weak-is just fine....
Then I found other articles or videos (some of big known facilities) where they say 150μmol/s*m is about the best intensity for cuts to root. And some people say that light is indeed an important factor for cuts to root properly and that you can have indeed to little light...
So thats why I wanted to ask the question in the title of this thread:
Did anyone here increase rooting sucess rate by adding more light intensity to unrooted cuts by hanging the lights closer or using stronger lights?
This topic starts to become an issue since I still have a bad rooting rate and I canceled out many factors, so one thing that is left and would make sense is my 48W cfl hanging about 140cm above the dome, I also know about the inverse square law which says with doubling the distance, the ammount of light in the same area becomes 4 times less....
Does that mean lights are on for 6hrs and than off for two hrs? What made you go with that cycle instead of 18/6?i currently use 6/2 light cycle with success for clones
Well m experience is that if you maintain 80f inside the dome, you will have more than 72f around the roots and if you create 72f trough a heat mat around the roots you will most likely have a way less than 80f airtemp inside the dome. I don't see how anyone would be able to maintain both relieably troughout the whole year.....50ppfd, 80f air (or 72f root by heat mat)
It's a technique people like to use. The idea is that by adding in more rest intervals it'll give the plant more energy to thrive during lights on. Essentiually you're spreading your 18/6 over 3 separate light on/off periods.Does that mean lights are on for 6hrs and than off for two hrs? What made you go with that cycle instead of 18/6?
One of the personal warehouse grows I did I used the office bathroom as the propagation room. I realized the smaller room was much easier to control temp and humidity. Others I've seen will use rope light under the tray to keep them warm.Well m experience is that if you maintain 80f inside the dome, you will have more than 72f around the roots and if you create 72f trough a heat mat around the roots you will most likely have a way less than 80f airtemp inside the dome. I don't see how anyone would be able to maintain both relieably troughout the whole year.....
Interesting. So you place the sensor in the actual tray between the cube holder and the catch tray? Is the sensor water proof? What about those that have heat mats that use ambient temps to control on/off since they don't have a movable probe?the trick is to put the sensor of the heating mat thermostat under the rockwool plug trays, against the floor of the grow tray.
set it at 27 degree C, this way it will oscillate between 27 and 28 degree UNDER the rockool, thats the optimal.
this way it takes less time for the sensor to feel the temperature change and turn off the mats
no root cooking
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