opt1c
- 330
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not a fan of the digital dimmer switch on phantoms; bought 3 awhile ago and one has a mind of its own; had to return it for a new one
I think some people are missing one of the main uses of dimmable ballasts. That would be to decrease the light toward the end of the grow. I use a 100w Phantom. I keep it at 1000w until week 7 on a 10 week strain. Then I reduce it to 750w for weeks 8 and 9, then down to 600w week 10. This prevents new pistils from forming and helps the plants finish properly and the buds stay dense.
Also Phantom specifically states in the manual that you can only use bulbs the same wattage as the undimmed ballast wattage. So if you have a 1000w ballast you need to use a 1000w bulb. The reason is because even if you have it dimmed to 600w when the ballast first comes fires up it comes on at 1000w for the first 10-15 minutes then goes down to your dimmed wattage selection. It does this to prolong bulb life. It is better for the bulb to be fired up at the rated wattage and then dimmed after properly warmed up.
Interesting, you are the second person I run into that dims the last couple of weeks, have you done any side by sides to see how much yield is lost by doing this, in a side by side i ran, I used digi ballast at lowest setting for first 2 weeks, went up a setting weeks 3-4, 100% weeks 5-6, and overdrive till the end. my yield was at least 25-30%less than magnetic ballast at steady 1000 watts. this experiment hurt me just to watch the different progression rates, but i stayed true and didnt deviate from experiment thinking the plants would make up for it somehow while being overdriven. Bottom line: didnt work so I was wandering how reversing the process works for you compared to just steady light output. your theory on late pistil development is a very valid one, just wanted to know how much yields suffered if anyI think some people are missing one of the main uses of dimmable ballasts. That would be to decrease the light toward the end of the grow. I use a 100w Phantom. I keep it at 1000w until week 7 on a 10 week strain. Then I reduce it to 750w for weeks 8 and 9, then down to 600w week 10. This prevents new pistils from forming and helps the plants finish properly and the buds stay dense.
Also Phantom specifically states in the manual that you can only use bulbs the same wattage as the undimmed ballast wattage. So if you have a 1000w ballast you need to use a 1000w bulb. The reason is because even if you have it dimmed to 600w when the ballast first comes fires up it comes on at 1000w for the first 10-15 minutes then goes down to your dimmed wattage selection. It does this to prolong bulb life. It is better for the bulb to be fired up at the rated wattage and then dimmed after properly warmed up.
Interesting, you are the second person I run into that dims the last couple of weeks, have you done any side by sides to see how much yield is lost by doing this, in a side by side i ran, I used digi ballast at lowest setting for first 2 weeks, went up a setting weeks 3-4, 100% weeks 5-6, and overdrive till the end. my yield was at least 25-30%less than magnetic ballast at steady 1000 watts. this experiment hurt me just to watch the different progression rates, but i stayed true and didnt deviate from experiment thinking the plants would make up for it somehow while being overdriven. Bottom line: didnt work so I was wandering how reversing the process works for you compared to just steady light output. your theory on late pistil development is a very valid one, just wanted to know how much yields suffered if any
I'm also interested in this, So you lost out on yield compared to the other side that was same setup/strains but full blast the whole way? Glad you stayed true to it despite the yields, all in the quest for knowledge.what about dimming just for the fist week? would be interested to see the difference between this and say running full bore or mh for the first week
Yes it is.
They do remote versions of the pro el 400 v range and coming with the new air cooled will be a single ended 1000 allowing for virticle positioning if one wishes.
Happy times for all.
I'm a rep for Solis Tek...we are doing a big marketing push currently....we need to get the word out on these. I am currently working Southern Cali territory and working my way up north. If you have any questions on these ballasts shoot me an email and I will be more than happy to answer any questions. Just to clear up a few little details...the remote on the Matrix version is optional. It retails at $19.99 but saves a grower $150+ out the gate on a Master lighting Controller and a timer. The remote has a built in timer and theoretically can control 1000 ballasts with one remote. The remote is only actually involved with the ballast during ignition and shut down. You can choose and program and one of the preset grow cycles i.e. 12/12, 18/6,23/1, on the LCD screen. This ballast is 1000w,600w,400w. You can use any wattage bulb in the ballast. All bulbs will fire with this ballast. We also have Solis Boost. This gives an additional 5% overdrive on the wattage..i.e. 1000w=1040w, 600w=630w, 400w=420w:cool: Solis Tek did testing and we found out that 5-7% is a safe threshold for "boost". Above 7%, life of the bulbs deteriorate faster. It's the only ballast like it in the world....check us out at www.solis-tek.com. Look us up on Facebook.those solis-tek ballasts look badass :)