Dinafem XXL White Widow Autos, coco coir grow

[Seraphine]

I’ve grown in coco for some time now so I decided to finally give these autos a try in coco. As we all know, autos can be fastidious plants so hopefully I don’t screw this up. Due to tent capacity issues, one will be started/vegged in my veg tent under hlg qb 4000k and the other in my flower tent with about 800 true watts of LEDS ranging from 3000k - 3500k. Let’s see which one grows better!

Start and finish in one gallon smart pots.
Compressed Coco coir, rinsed thoroughly.
Masterblend nutrients.
One WW auto will grow under 18/6 with hlg qb 4000k (until room in flower tent frees up).
The other WW auto will grow 12/12 with various LEDs 800watts from the wall.

The first WW auto in the cool white light of the qb’s.

The second WW auto hanging out with the big girls in the flower tent.

 

[Seraphine]

It’s hard to tell from the picture of the flower tent but the cafe racer in the back right is black, yes black!! She still has a little green towards the bottom of the plant but is mostly black. She is a mean looking plant for sure. Hopefully the smoke is as fierce as she looks!

 

[Roxyheart420]

Hey Seraphine, finally found your thread. Ok I'm going to try the coco route. I'm starting with clones. What was a major learning lesson with coco when you first started out? Do I mix the coco with anything? With soil I always mixed perilite. I'll be starting with clones. I grow veg under T5's and HSP 1000 in flower. I do know you have to rise your coco until it's clear. Do you let it dry out before transplanting? Also, with soil after you transplant you just run water (no nutrients) for the first water, is this true in coco also or do I start with nutrients right away? So many questions hahah Thank you Oh, and how do you know when to water? I know that sounds stupid but with soil you stick the meter in the soil and wait and also with the weight of pot. Coco seems like it would dry out faster.

 

[Seraphine]

The key with coco is to use a pot that a small enough so the coco almost drys each day. I highly recommend using either 1 or 3 gallon fabric pots. I use the 1 gallon but the 3 gallon would work too if you want much bigger plants. For my 3’x3’x6’ flower tent, I can fit eight or nine 1-gallon fabric pots. They air prune the roots so you don’t have to worry about them getting root bound and they halp get oxygen to the roots and dry out much quicker. I can feed everyday with that size pot. If go with the 3-gallon fabric, you may have to feed every other day depending on the environment.

The next is pH. I keep my pH 5.8 -6.3. Some plants like it on the higher 6.3 end. For example, my GG4s1 likes it at 6.2 or 6.3. I can tell because I’ve been keeping it lower at 5.8ish and she is showing signs of deficiency. I know it’s not a PPM issue, so I know it has to be pH.

Next, I hydrate a large coco brick in a large rectangular storage bin(the kind you buy at Walmart or target). I use the large 8-10lb compressed bricks. Each brick needs about 4 gallons of warm water (I use old milk jugs). Make sure your container is in it’s permanent spot and carry the water to it because it’s HEAVY once all the water is added. I then scoop the coco in my fabric pots and pack it in their good because it’ll all condense down as your rinse it. Next , rinse it with warm water until it runs clear or as clear as it’s going get. Some people will then soak or charge the coco in a cal-mag solution but I never do.

Since you’ll be vegging with T5s you want a lot of airflow since they don’t generate any heat that will dry the coco. I’d add some of those clip on fans to spots where they’ll be blowing over the soil/fabric pots.

The HPS will run hotter in flower but still have fans blowing on the fabric pots.

I think that answered you questions!

 

[Seraphine]

Another very important aspect to growing in coco to get some run off every time time you feed. Don’t let the plants sit in the run off, use a shop vac or something to clean up the run off. Once a week, I like to get a lot of run off.

 

[Seraphine]

I think my major learning lesson with coco is trying to determine how much to feed since they are getting fed daily. Start with less than the manufacturer recommended application and add more if needed. Or just try the recommended application and adjust from there.

I found during veg and the first 2 or 3 weeks of flower they like daily feedings. However once they got halfway or 3/4 of the way into flower, I had to back off to feeding every other day and giving plain pH’d water in between. In my other journal, I have more info on what I use for nutrients and my application.

 

[Rikismom420]

The key with coco is to use a pot that a small enough so the coco almost drys each day. I highly recommend using either 1 or 3 gallon fabric pots. I use the 1 gallon but the 3 gallon would work too if you want much bigger plants. For my 3’x3’x6’ flower tent, I can fit eight or nine 1-gallon fabric pots. They air prune the roots so you don’t have to worry about them getting root bound and they halp get oxygen to the roots and dry out much quicker. I can feed everyday with that size pot. If go with the 3-gallon fabric, you may have to feed every other day depending on the environment.

The next is pH. I keep my pH 5.8 -6.3. Some plants like it on the higher 6.3 end. For example, my GG4s1 likes it at 6.2 or 6.3. I can tell because I’ve been keeping it lower at 5.8ish and she is showing signs of deficiency. I know it’s not a PPM issue, so I know it has to be pH.

Next, I hydrate a large coco brick in a large rectangular storage bin(the kind you buy at Walmart or target). I use the large 8-10lb compressed bricks. Each brick needs about 4 gallons of warm water (I use old milk jugs). Make sure your container is in it’s permanent spot and carry the water to it because it’s HEAVY once all the water is added. I then scoop the coco in my fabric pots and pack it in their good because it’ll all condense down as your rinse it. Next , rinse it with warm water until it runs clear or as clear as it’s going get. Some people will then soak or charge the coco in a cal-mag solution but I never do.

Since you’ll be vegging with T5s you want a lot of airflow since they don’t generate any heat that will dry the coco. I’d add some of those clip on fans to spots where they’ll be blowing over the soil/fabric pots.

The HPS will run hotter in flower but still have fans blowing on the fabric pots.

I think that answered you questions!

Being my first grow I did FFOF / perlite and coco on the bottom half, I had ph problems from day one and stunted growth And never really caught up to lush plants.coc is a bit acidic isn’t it. Ph about 6.1 I believe , but I do think I use coco on my next grow . I have 2 300w led intent and have auto flowers in now as 47 for those .enjoyed your info and all the other knowledgeable beings in here
Happy growing

 

[Beachwalker]

I think my major learning lesson with coco is trying to determine how much to feed since they are getting fed daily. Start with less than the manufacturer recommended application and add more if needed. Or just try the recommended application and adjust from there.

I found during veg and the first 2 or 3 weeks of flower they like daily feedings. However once they got halfway or 3/4 of the way into flower, I had to back off to feeding every other day and giving plain pH’d water in between. In my other journal, I have more info on what I use for nutrients and my application.

Not trying to derail the thread but whereas you mentioned feeding above I'm switching to master blend at the end of the month. Already have the 15-0-0 calcium nitrate and the Epsom here so I'm picking up the 4-18-38 soon, I have read everything you said about it that I could find which is a big reason I'm picking it up over the jacks 3 2 1 blend

I like the way you stop the calcium nitrate late in flower and only use the 4-18-38 & epsom and the overall flexibility with the product!

Any recommendations on PPM & any other thoughts that you could share would be appreciated, thanks again for all the previous info on MasterBlend I'm sure I'm going to love it! :)

 

[Seraphine]

I actually stop the calcium nitrate once I switch to flower. I only add the calcium nitrate back during flower if any plants are showing signs of nitrogen deficiency during the beginning of flower stretch. So I guess, you could keep the calcium nitrate during the first 2ish weeks of flower while they are stretching. Yes, love the flexibility. No need for expensive nutrients, this stuff is so cost effective.

When I feeds tomorrow, I’ll actually use my PPM meter and post those numbers.

I hope you like this line as much as I do!

 

[PlumberSoCal]

Not trying to derail the thread but whereas you mentioned feeding above I'm switching to master blend at the end of the month. Already have the 15-0-0 calcium nitrate and the Epsom here so I'm picking up the 4-18-38 soon, I have read everything you said about it that I could find which is a big reason I'm picking it up over the jacks 3 2 1 blend

I like the way you stop the calcium nitrate late in flower and only use the 4-18-38 & epsom and the overall flexibility with the product!

Any recommendations on PPM & any other thoughts that you could share would be appreciated, thanks again for all the previous info on MasterBlend I'm sure I'm going to love it! :)
View attachment 883273

I've ordered the 5lb. Can't wait to get started.

 

[Beachwalker]

I actually stop the calcium nitrate once I switch to flower. I only add the calcium nitrate back during flower if any plants are showing signs of nitrogen deficiency during the beginning of flower stretch. So I guess, you could keep the calcium nitrate during the first 2ish weeks of flower while they are stretching. Yes, love the flexibility. No need for expensive nutrients, this stuff is so cost effective.

When I feeds tomorrow, I’ll actually use my PPM meter and post those numbers.

I hope you like this line as much as I do!

Thanks I'm sure I will! I've been considering making the change to a 3.2.1 type nute mix for quite a while, and like you mentioned Jacks is not available in 5#, and at this point in time a 50 lb sack of Jacks will outlive me LOL, so that was a decision factor too because I'm currently using Jack's Bloom Booster (10-30-20) and it's great stuff but I have confidence Masterblend is too! :)

I've ordered the 5lb. Can't wait to get started.

I think it's going to work out well! I've been looking at this stuff for quite a while but Seraphine's positive comments finally convinced me to make the switch, I like the simplicity & flexibility it offers!

 

[PlumberSoCal]

Oh yeah. My start date is 8-23 to start seeds, outside in a greenhouse. I don't recall the last time I was this excited about a grow.

 

[Seraphine]

I checked the ppm after I added everything here are the results.

Out of tap: 350 ppm
Veg mix: 909ppm
Flower mix: 696ppm

So I definitely have some room to wiggle and experiment. I also use the this in my seedlings with no issues.

 

[Roxyheart420]

The key with coco is to use a pot that a small enough so the coco almost drys each day. I highly recommend using either 1 or 3 gallon fabric pots. I use the 1 gallon but the 3 gallon would work too if you want much bigger plants. For my 3’x3’x6’ flower tent, I can fit eight or nine 1-gallon fabric pots. They air prune the roots so you don’t have to worry about them getting root bound and they halp get oxygen to the roots and dry out much quicker. I can feed everyday with that size pot. If go with the 3-gallon fabric, you may have to feed every other day depending on the environment.

The next is pH. I keep my pH 5.8 -6.3. Some plants like it on the higher 6.3 end. For example, my GG4s1 likes it at 6.2 or 6.3. I can tell because I’ve been keeping it lower at 5.8ish and she is showing signs of deficiency. I know it’s not a PPM issue, so I know it has to be pH.

Next, I hydrate a large coco brick in a large rectangular storage bin(the kind you buy at Walmart or target). I use the large 8-10lb compressed bricks. Each brick needs about 4 gallons of warm water (I use old milk jugs). Make sure your container is in it’s permanent spot and carry the water to it because it’s HEAVY once all the water is added. I then scoop the coco in my fabric pots and pack it in their good because it’ll all condense down as your rinse it. Next , rinse it with warm water until it runs clear or as clear as it’s going get. Some people will then soak or charge the coco in a cal-mag solution but I never do.

Since you’ll be vegging with T5s you want a lot of airflow since they don’t generate any heat that will dry the coco. I’d add some of those clip on fans to spots where they’ll be blowing over the soil/fabric pots.

The HPS will run hotter in flower but still have fans blowing on the fabric pots.

I think that answered you questions!

Thank you for all of that. I was thinking of using a pre-blend coco to start like Mother Earth Coco or FoxFarm-Bush Doctor. What are your thoughts on that? Also, from a clone, do you plant into a 3 gal right off the bat or size up like you do in soil? 1 gal to 3 gal to 7 gal. In my space I have to switch rooms going into flower. I have roughly 42 plants. So when you said get a clip on fan I think that might interfer with the space I have. I have about 4 fans on the walls and 1 stand fan circulating blowing at bottom of plants. But now you have me concerned because the plants in the middle of the tray may not get enough air to dry out coco. Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[newh]

I’ve grown in coco for some time now so I decided to finally give these autos a try in coco. As we all know, autos can be fastidious plants so hopefully I don’t screw this up. Due to tent capacity issues, one will be started/vegged in my veg tent under hlg qb 4000k and the other in my flower tent with about 800 true watts of LEDS ranging from 3000k - 3500k. Let’s see which one grows better!

Start and finish in one gallon smart pots.
Compressed Coco coir, rinsed thoroughly.
Masterblend nutrients.
One WW auto will grow under 18/6 with hlg qb 4000k (until room in flower tent frees up).
The other WW auto will grow 12/12 with various LEDs 800watts from the wall.

The first WW auto in the cool white light of the qb’s.

The second WW auto hanging out with the big girls in the flower tent.

12/12 isnt enough light for autos,I tried it with the exact strain.The flowers wont dense up

 

[Rikismom420]

It’s hard to tell from the picture of the flower tent but the cafe racer in the back right is black, yes black!! She still has a little green towards the bottom of the plant but is mostly black. She is a mean looking plant for sure. Hopefully the smoke is as fierce as she looks!

Hi there, since I have coco o the bottom the pot and ffof and perlite on th top of my pot do I need to use cal mag since I have coco in my root system.. second grow , first autos so trying to do it right. My plants Ar 4weeks old now .thx for the info ahead of time.
Blessings
Happy growing

 

[Seraphine]

Probably not. Are you using additional nutrients, if so what kind and how much? Or are you just using plain pH’d water?

 

[Rikismom420]

Probably not. Are you using additional nutrients, if so what kind and how much? Or are you just using plain pH’d water?

Haven’t used any nutrients yet.since FFOF has some In them.i was awaiting another week. Then it’s ff grow big, and th bloom nutrients when it hits bloom.yes just Ph d water.for now. They are ak 47 autos. Just trying not to get to high on Nutes .
Thx for response
Blessings and happy growing

 

[Seraphine]

What size pot and how much is coco? Is the bottom half coco or 1/4 of the bottom coco?

 

[Seraphine]

Adding c

Haven’t used any nutrients yet.since FFOF has some In them.i was awaiting another week. Then it’s ff grow big, and th bloom nutrients when it hits bloom.yes just Ph d water.for now. They are ak 47 autos. Just trying not to get to high on Nutes .
Thx for response
Blessings and happy growing

I won’t hurt to have it on hand and certainly won’t hurt to include some cal/mag into your nutrients but you’ll probably be fine without it too. I Next time, I would mix the soil, coco and perlite together.