Discussing the switch from GH-3 Part to CS Nutes

[redwhiteblue]

Currently running GH-3 part in the UC-love the results.

OG and GSC only.

Looking to try a couple runs with CS nutes-

Which part of the Cultured Solutions line is necessary?

Any CS products I don't need?

Running all 13xxL systems with chillers and UC Roots.

 

[slikhik]

For Veg:
UC Roots
Veg A
Veg B

For Flower
UC Roots
Bloom A
Bloom B
Bud Booster

The line is very simple. I wouldn't leave anything out. You'll love it. I would recommend you stick to the feeding ratios but never go above 700-800 ppm (750 scale) even when it tells you to. The two times I went above that my flowers never hardened as I think they were over fertilized. As Desert squirrel says, he doesn't break 600 ppm.

Smell and resin are top notch with CS. I'll put my money on that.

Good luck buddy!

 

[redwhiteblue]

For Veg:
UC Roots
Veg A
Veg B

For Flower
UC Roots
Bloom A
Bloom B
Bud Booster

The line is very simple. I wouldn't leave anything out. You'll love it. I would recommend you stick to the feeding ratios but never go above 700-800 ppm (750 scale) even when it tells you to. The two times I went above that my flowers never hardened as I think they were over fertilized. As Desert squirrel says, he doesn't break 600 ppm.

Smell and resin are top notch with CS. I'll put my money on that.

Good luck buddy!

Thanks so much for the response! When you say stick to the CS feeding ratios - do you mean stick to the ratios on the bottles, or do you mean run 50% of the feeding ratio on the bottle like Christian suggests?

 

[TheAlchemist]

You can follow the directions on the feed chart that CC suggest....basically with most strains, you do not need to go higher than 800PPM during "peak" flowering. Around week 6 or 7 of flowering the plants are not going to be using much nutrients anyhow and that is about the time that most strains start to slow in up-taking nutrients from the solution....

You want the plants to start using up stored supplies in the fan leaves during the late flowering periods. CS nutrients will indeed produce a super nice clean end product, but then again so will other brands when they are NOT over used as in most cases unfortunately.....

You will most likely need to add Cal/Mag to the list especially if your using RO water. CS nutrients worked well as long as cal/mag was added. I must admit that I was really disappointing that CS Nutrients still required the addition of cal/mag as do most all nutrients except for a few that I have tested in the UC system.

Considering the guys that made the system are so knowledgeable as to design such a awesome system (the best on the market IMO) also made the CS nutrients, you would have thought this would have been on the "list" so to speak. I "hate" always having to purchase and supplement with cal/mag when the nutrient "claims" to be "complete".....And I do fully admit that this cal/mag thing is a pet pee of mine......Im a cheapskate when it comes to spending money on nutrients....I also admit that as well.....lol

One of the best things I could say about the CS nutrients from my experience was the low PPM's never exceeding 800PPM (x5 conversion), but the other nutrients I used in the UC system required less also so IMVHO it is the design of the UC itself that makes it so efficient at nutrient delivery to the plants.

I guess I was just expecting a lot more from CS nutrients considering how blown away I was with the UC system itself as I have been using this system since its been available. And since the CS nutrients didnt become available until much later, I had already been spoiled by the awesome performance of the system.....so when I got the CS nutrients to try, and it didnt stop the earth from spinning for about a day or two like it did when I got the UC system......I was disappointed.

Did some side by side testing using UC roots in one side and bleach in the other. The side using bleach did as well as the side using UC Roots......also did another test but used chlorine instead of bleach and that test worked just as well also, meaning I could not tell which plants got UC Roots and which got bleach or chlorine......IMO, UC Roots is not worth the money as bleach or chlorine will work just as well......Bleach has been used in the agricultural industry worldwide in damn near every greenhouse you will find.

Before using CS nutrients, Heavy 16 was used and also Ionic one part and both of those did as well or better than CS Nutrients IMVHO.

Another nutrient program that worked as well or better was the combo of Dyna-Gro Bloom, cal/mag/ and Protek using H202 @ 29% weekly.

 

[UCMENOW]

You should def give it a run and decide for yourself. From my experience it produces the highest quality (oil content, clean burning) herb I've grown in the UC.

From what I understand CC has a new bloom booster or 2 in the pipe line too, pow.

There is a reason CalMag is typically not a component within a base nute, which has to do with the reactiveness of Ca. ions in concentration with other minerals causing precipitates.

Good input though The Alchemist, thanks for sharing your experience. In my experiments with UC Roots vs bleach, I experienced less biolfilm and nutrient film build up with the uc roots, but other wise they seemed to perform similarly. Pretty certain the hypochlorous acid (UC Roots active ingredient) is used to prevent biofilms so it makes sense.

And like stated above, use CS as directed on the feed chart.

Side note: Been seeing some bros use CS in coco and crushing it! May be that CS is the best coco nute disguised as a water culture nute ;)

 

[bigdaddyg8]

i use CS nutes A+B for veg in soil . only because i ran out of ionic and had cs on hand . been using it ever since with great results .

 

[BudGoggles]

First run with CS nutes and they are rockin. Very simple not much to add but definitely use cal mag.
Very ph stable as well and thats the ticket
Probably gonna give it a go in coco next round as well