Diy........ Botanical Teas & Homeade Organic Fertilizers

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Ecompost

Ecompost

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i want to make IMO but nothing but crappy ceder trees around here,just went out early morning sunday and got some comfrey tips and stinging nettle to make some good stuff into a FPJ,i love that shit,when them plants start to flower you can really tell the difrence,,but imo i would have to travel far to collect and wouldnt be anything close to the envoriment i live ,cactus,comfrey,nettle,oak,hickory and more freaking ceder trees than all of it combined ahaah,got a tree next to a comfrey/stinging nettle patch thought about trying it for IMO what you think?
you can get lots of bacteria, you will get less fungal material by the sounds of it, but comfrey has some good yeasts etc, including many antibiotic types and also bio control so its a good choice for plants susceptible to white rots, eg cabbages and so on.
I dont use nettle feeds on mycorrhizal plants but I would use them on my brassicas for example.

I have been using lots of FPJ made from squash on my tomatoes etc, seems to be working well. I found its also a great feed for lawn grass and as a mineral treatment. Anything that seeds inside the fruit it works well on.
It has good PK values and lots of compounds known to reduce UV impacts. They grow easily here, I bet they will with you too, and we always have ones we either dont sell...too big, or just ripen after bulk sale.
i eat them all the time, but we still have left overs which i made into FPJ and liked
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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nah I dont use slurry when growing living plants, i find it can over crust up. I prefer straw mulch or leaf mulch

I do mix manures with top soil tho. I use say horse shit cause we have it, then I use the dried out top soil around the place. You know the stuff thats all loose. I use equal parts normally bro and i find this prevents a crust forming after feeds or watering generally where heat is high and clay present.
I dont dig down too much but use a furrow type approach, where I build a circle of loose top soil and then I break up the inner top soil with a small pick/ hoe, I add manure to this and fork it in, as I build up I use a lasagne method of layering dry top soil which is loose and airy, to manures which prevent crusting. I add a layer of manure on top as I find this rarely over dries in to hardpan, so allowing better water infiltration and general growth.

I will take a picture tomorrow buddy so you can see what I mean
cool,i watch,lol did notice from start to finish the barely malt did layer in ,had definite outline of were i top dressed it,,the layering you mention i do it with egg shells under the plants,i put mix in the hole,then fill with 2 or 3 in of compost,then same layer for soil,then transplant and tuck in the sides,works real well learned it from grandpa when young and forgot all about it,was watching a gardening channel and seen it done,so i replied and the old feller just gave me the recipe hahah,been using under the tomato plants since,problem im having now is the same end rot on squash,ya believe that shit,think i found a solution to the boer worms,fingers crossed so far not a one,just used the 33 gal tote and didnt fill in top 4 inchs and with all that foilage they wont fly in to sting base at ground level,last few days ive had to pick 5 squash cause of end rot,was thinking the calcium would be great addition at this point
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
you can get lots of bacteria, you will get less fungal material by the sounds of it, but comfrey has some good yeasts etc, including many antibiotic types and also bio control so its a good choice for plants susceptible to white rots, eg cabbages and so on.
I dont use nettle feeds on mycorrhizal plants but I would use them on my brassicas for example.

I have been using lots of FPJ made from squash on my tomatoes etc, seems to be working well. I found its also a great feed for lawn grass and as a mineral treatment. Anything that seeds inside the fruit it works well on.
It has good PK values and lots of compounds known to reduce UV impacts. They grow easily here, I bet they will with you too, and we always have ones we either dont sell...too big, or just ripen after bulk sale.
i eat them all the time, but we still have left overs which i made into FPJ and liked
i got some from the sweet potato fpj im gonna start using ,see how they like it,1 to 500 rate,did you say i could use media pro in the comfrey fermenting,thought i read that yesterday,if so how much would you add to a about half a 5 gal bucket,of comfrey and nettle,to late already put brown sugur on and in the mix sunday
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
i got some from the sweet potato fpj im gonna start using ,see how they like it,1 to 500 rate,did you say i could use media pro in the comfrey fermenting,thought i read that yesterday,if so how much would you add to a about half a 5 gal bucket,of comfrey and nettle,to late already put brown sugur on and in the mix sunday
bonitas fpj works well too :-) i would add max 2.5g or 1/2 tsp but as low as .5g if its warmer.
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
you can get lots of bacteria, you will get less fungal material by the sounds of it, but comfrey has some good yeasts etc, including many antibiotic types and also bio control so its a good choice for plants susceptible to white rots, eg cabbages and so on.
I dont use nettle feeds on mycorrhizal plants but I would use them on my brassicas for example.

I have been using lots of FPJ made from squash on my tomatoes etc, seems to be working well. I found its also a great feed for lawn grass and as a mineral treatment. Anything that seeds inside the fruit it works well on.
It has good PK values and lots of compounds known to reduce UV impacts. They grow easily here, I bet they will with you too, and we always have ones we either dont sell...too big, or just ripen after bulk sale.
i eat them all the time, but we still have left overs which i made into FPJ and liked
i also came across a plant,ive never seen before,has a yellow flower on top stacked like seeds,leaves feel like fleece growing in with a patch of comfrey,so snatched it up to,,so wouldnt harvesting the comfrey before flower and leaf tips,after fermentation,wouldnt i use this in flower stage of growth,that was the plan,the weed loved the shit last couple grows,i just used it during flower stage though
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
cool,i watch,lol did notice from start to finish the barely malt did layer in ,had definite outline of were i top dressed it,,the layering you mention i do it with egg shells under the plants,i put mix in the hole,then fill with 2 or 3 in of compost,then same layer for soil,then transplant and tuck in the sides,works real well learned it from grandpa when young and forgot all about it,was watching a gardening channel and seen it done,so i replied and the old feller just gave me the recipe hahah,been using under the tomato plants since,problem im having now is the same end rot on squash,ya believe that shit,think i found a solution to the boer worms,fingers crossed so far not a one,just used the 33 gal tote and didnt fill in top 4 inchs and with all that foilage they wont fly in to sting base at ground level,last few days ive had to pick 5 squash cause of end rot,was thinking the calcium would be great addition at this point
yes mate. never had end rot on my pumpkins but I have drip irrigation and high calcium levels in the water here and in Estonia. I do put wood under my fruits.
I have had loads of it on tomatoes tho. Even with the water levels. i put this down to trying to grow too many hierlooms not suited to locations
I have had some beetles on my squash last year but i got these sorted with beauvaria and nematodes in winter
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
yes mate. never had end rot on my pumpkins but I have drip irrigation and high calcium levels in the water here and in Estonia. I do put wood under my fruits.
I have had loads of it on tomatoes tho. Even with the water levels. i put this down to trying to grow too many hierlooms not suited to locations
I have had some beetles on my squash last year but i got these sorted with beauvaria and nematodes in winter
i really wont to give pumpkins a try,i asume they take a lot of space
 
Ecompost

Ecompost

5,134
313
i also came across a plant,ive never seen before,has a yellow flower on top stacked like seeds,leaves feel like fleece growing in with a patch of comfrey,so snatched it up to,,so wouldnt harvesting the comfrey before flower and leaf tips,after fermentation,wouldnt i use this in flower stage of growth,that was the plan,the weed loved the shit last couple grows,i just used it during flower stage though
I would use it up to week 3-4 in bloom, but best about 10 days before bloom, one week after then once a week to week 3 on an 8 week plant. But this is just me bro. i find comfrey is a bit like kelp and can cause premature ripening of pistols if used too late. Comfrey does make a good seed soak tho
 
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Ecompost

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ive seen those at jhony seed,just didnt know if they would do any good in this area,i did just order 25 bulrguard slips,gonna plant end this month,love them sweet taters hahah,hell i like everything i grow
yeah they grow here. You need good deep soil tho, or grow them in bags with well rotted manure/ compost and a bit of wood ash. You will need water tho
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

12,306
438
I would use it up to week 3-4 in bloom, but best about 10 days before bloom, one week after then once a week to week 3 on an 8 week plant. But this is just me bro. i find comfrey is a bit like kelp and can cause premature ripening of pistols if used too late. Comfrey does make a good seed soak tho
thats interesting,i was just using it once a month,so last 2 weeks of veg and first 2 weeks bloom set them straight,how about using in the veggie garden same way before expected flowers?
 
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cool and done,i need to give it a stir and going in ,in a while,asked about the water cause for some reason my sugar is sticking to bottom of bucket
yeah i use a big stick, wooden paddle type and stir, put a lid on air tight and use a coke bottle and tub to off gas, Alan is all posh and uses a brewers tap on top of his barrels to vent the gas
 
oldskol4evr

oldskol4evr

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yeah man they do need room. Min I would use is 0.8x1.5M per plant. You can top them to stop them growing along and away if you get me
kinda like melons? i do that to watermelon and canaloupe,after i get about 3 fruit,i chop the vine,got lazy last year had 1 watermelon vine about 15 ft long hahaha
 
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5,134
313
thats interesting,i was just using it once a month,so last 2 weeks of veg and first 2 weeks bloom set them straight,how about using in the veggie garden same way before expected flowers?
yeah on veggies it rocks, its high in K so a great product for most eating crops, even those grown for pasture too. I use it on tomatoes, the yeast can be used to replace any aspirin to stimulate the SAR
 

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