Diy: Flying Skull Nuke Em ? Can It Be Done

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Flying Skull Nuke em: hate em or Love em . It’s still good defense stuff for as a addition since no one should use same spray every time .


well I was thinking : $400 for 2.5 gal for citric acid pesticide ? Fuck them! ( so many of the companies use same brews , close enough ;))

So If we could figure out the ratios and just buy the bulk and just be it our self it will save all of us a million . Won’t even prolly be hard :)

LETS FIGURE IT OUT ( I suck at measurements , that’s why I’m here )

* question is what yeast do I need to use and what percentage (everything in Inert Ingredients besides water lol)



Active Ingredients
Citric acid 0.05%

Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total: 100.00%


Thanks
 
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263
Come on guys let’s get this chat going ! :( what kind of yeast do you think they use in these products ? ( reg yeast? Beer yeast?, suggestions plz ! . I need a starter ground or this goes nowhere )


I figured this def would be a great discussion and if it worked at least a great defense tool since everything is available easily and cheap. Plus it’s non lethal & used up to 5-6 week of flower.

I’m just certain these companies are making something we all can make so easily of we give a little effort and discussion
 
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This explains the full pecentages of Nuke em , “top secret “ my asshole



Code:
“

On further reading I got this: from Nes at : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=291721

Can we talk about Nuke em for a minute?
I keep hearing good things about nuke em, but I have yet to try it. People say it works for mites and mildew without all the nasty. Some folks say it works on Broad mites, though flying skulls recommends using Z7 with it for BM. I've also heard of people overduing it and stressing their plants with it.

When I first saw the product in the hydro store, the manufacturer listed the active ingredient as citric acid, with yeast and potassium sorbate as inert ingredients. In fact, it's still listed this way on the flying skulls website.
http://flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=Nuke-em

However, if you looks at the other distributors of it elsewhere, ones who actually explain a bit of its "multiple" modes of action, they list potassium sorbate as the active ingredient, with citric acid and yeast as inert
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nu...l-information/

The EPa and USDa requires pesticide producers label as 'active' the ingredient they claim to be the working one. When I asked the local hydro store guy about this, he told me the flying skulls sales rep was pretty vague and didn't seem to want people to know just how it works. My friends in the dept of ag-organics program tell me pesticide producers could potentially get arround requirements to label ingredients as "active" by not advertising them to be.
So does Nuke em work? If so, what makes it work and how? What are its modes of action? and why is it so damn expensive?

The ingredients are listed by weight, so lets brake down a gallon of Nuke em.
1 gallon of water is 3780 grams, so
0.05% citric acid comes out to 1.89 grams per gallon.
9.43% yeast is 0.7858lbs per gallon
0.02% of potassium Sorbate is 0.756 grams ger gallon.

Even at the hydro stop, I get 1.6lb of citric acid cystals of 16$, so if my math is right, 1.89 grams is 4 cents worth of citric acid.
Brewer's yeast is about 7$/lb so 0.7858lb of yeast comes out to $5.50
I found potassium sorbate @ $18.50/lb (shiping included) on google. If my math is right again, that 0.756 grams costs 3 cents.
$0.04
$5.50
$0.03
$5.57 of active and inactive ingredients in a gallon of concentrate that retails for $55!
Of course that cost doesn't take into account labor, packaging, distribution and overhead on the manufacturing facility, but unless there is something missing here, this seems like an easy recipe to replicate.

Do anny of y'all have any thoughts on this product?
am I missing something here?
Feel free to share your experiences with Nuke em, success and failures!


EDIT: I looked a bit closer at the second label and noticed "Nuke em is not registered with the US Federal Environmental Protection Agency. Its formula qualifies for exemption under FIFRA section 25 (b) as a minimum risk pesticide. "
This may be why they can change their label's active ingredient claims.”

“

On further reading I got this: from Nes at : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=291721

Can we talk about Nuke em for a minute?
I keep hearing good things about nuke em, but I have yet to try it. People say it works for mites and mildew without all the nasty. Some folks say it works on Broad mites, though flying skulls recommends using Z7 with it for BM. I've also heard of people overduing it and stressing their plants with it.

When I first saw the product in the hydro store, the manufacturer listed the active ingredient as citric acid, with yeast and potassium sorbate as inert ingredients. In fact, it's still listed this way on the flying skulls website.
http://flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=Nuke-em

However, if you looks at the other distributors of it elsewhere, ones who actually explain a bit of its "multiple" modes of action, they list potassium sorbate as the active ingredient, with citric acid and yeast as inert
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nu...l-information/

The EPa and USDa requires pesticide producers label as 'active' the ingredient they claim to be the working one. When I asked the local hydro store guy about this, he told me the flying skulls sales rep was pretty vague and didn't seem to want people to know just how it works. My friends in the dept of ag-organics program tell me pesticide producers could potentially get arround requirements to label ingredients as "active" by not advertising them to be.
So does Nuke em work? If so, what makes it work and how? What are its modes of action? and why is it so damn expensive?

The ingredients are listed by weight, so lets brake down a gallon of Nuke em.
1 gallon of water is 3780 grams, so
0.05% citric acid comes out to 1.89 grams per gallon.
9.43% yeast is 0.7858lbs per gallon
0.02% of potassium Sorbate is 0.756 grams ger gallon.

Even at the hydro stop, I get 1.6lb of citric acid cystals of 16$, so if my math is right, 1.89 grams is 4 cents worth of citric acid.
Brewer's yeast is about 7$/lb so 0.7858lb of yeast comes out to $5.50
I found potassium sorbate @ $18.50/lb (shiping included) on google. If my math is right again, that 0.756 grams costs 3 cents.
$0.04
$5.50
$0.03
$5.57 of active and inactive ingredients in a gallon of concentrate that retails for $55!
Of course that cost doesn't take into account labor, packaging, distribution and overhead on the manufacturing facility, but unless there is something missing here, this seems like an easy recipe to replicate.

Do anny of y'all have any thoughts on this product?
am I missing something here?
Feel free to share your experiences with Nuke em, success and failures!


EDIT: I looked a bit closer at the second label and noticed "Nuke em is not registered with the US Federal Environmental Protection Agency. Its formula qualifies for exemption under FIFRA section 25 (b) as a minimum risk pesticide. "
This may be why they can change their label's active ingredient claims.”
i’m Buying rest of stuff and I will def report with my “beta” version

FUCK PAYING $400 for 2.5 a gal when it’s 8 fl a gal rate
 
This explains the full pecentages of Nuke em , “top secret “ my asshole



Code:
“

On further reading I got this: from Nes at : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=291721

Can we talk about Nuke em for a minute?
I keep hearing good things about nuke em, but I have yet to try it. People say it works for mites and mildew without all the nasty. Some folks say it works on Broad mites, though flying skulls recommends using Z7 with it for BM. I've also heard of people overduing it and stressing their plants with it.

When I first saw the product in the hydro store, the manufacturer listed the active ingredient as citric acid, with yeast and potassium sorbate as inert ingredients. In fact, it's still listed this way on the flying skulls website.
http://flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=Nuke-em

However, if you looks at the other distributors of it elsewhere, ones who actually explain a bit of its "multiple" modes of action, they list potassium sorbate as the active ingredient, with citric acid and yeast as inert
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nu...l-information/

The EPa and USDa requires pesticide producers label as 'active' the ingredient they claim to be the working one. When I asked the local hydro store guy about this, he told me the flying skulls sales rep was pretty vague and didn't seem to want people to know just how it works. My friends in the dept of ag-organics program tell me pesticide producers could potentially get arround requirements to label ingredients as "active" by not advertising them to be.
So does Nuke em work? If so, what makes it work and how? What are its modes of action? and why is it so damn expensive?

The ingredients are listed by weight, so lets brake down a gallon of Nuke em.
1 gallon of water is 3780 grams, so
0.05% citric acid comes out to 1.89 grams per gallon.
9.43% yeast is 0.7858lbs per gallon
0.02% of potassium Sorbate is 0.756 grams ger gallon.

Even at the hydro stop, I get 1.6lb of citric acid cystals of 16$, so if my math is right, 1.89 grams is 4 cents worth of citric acid.
Brewer's yeast is about 7$/lb so 0.7858lb of yeast comes out to $5.50
I found potassium sorbate @ $18.50/lb (shiping included) on google. If my math is right again, that 0.756 grams costs 3 cents.
$0.04
$5.50
$0.03
$5.57 of active and inactive ingredients in a gallon of concentrate that retails for $55!
Of course that cost doesn't take into account labor, packaging, distribution and overhead on the manufacturing facility, but unless there is something missing here, this seems like an easy recipe to replicate.

Do anny of y'all have any thoughts on this product?
am I missing something here?
Feel free to share your experiences with Nuke em, success and failures!


EDIT: I looked a bit closer at the second label and noticed "Nuke em is not registered with the US Federal Environmental Protection Agency. Its formula qualifies for exemption under FIFRA section 25 (b) as a minimum risk pesticide. "
This may be why they can change their label's active ingredient claims.”

“

On further reading I got this: from Nes at : https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=291721

Can we talk about Nuke em for a minute?
I keep hearing good things about nuke em, but I have yet to try it. People say it works for mites and mildew without all the nasty. Some folks say it works on Broad mites, though flying skulls recommends using Z7 with it for BM. I've also heard of people overduing it and stressing their plants with it.

When I first saw the product in the hydro store, the manufacturer listed the active ingredient as citric acid, with yeast and potassium sorbate as inert ingredients. In fact, it's still listed this way on the flying skulls website.
http://flyingskull.net/proddetail.php?prod=Nuke-em

However, if you looks at the other distributors of it elsewhere, ones who actually explain a bit of its "multiple" modes of action, they list potassium sorbate as the active ingredient, with citric acid and yeast as inert
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nuke-em/
http://www.wellplant.com/products/nu...l-information/

The EPa and USDa requires pesticide producers label as 'active' the ingredient they claim to be the working one. When I asked the local hydro store guy about this, he told me the flying skulls sales rep was pretty vague and didn't seem to want people to know just how it works. My friends in the dept of ag-organics program tell me pesticide producers could potentially get arround requirements to label ingredients as "active" by not advertising them to be.
So does Nuke em work? If so, what makes it work and how? What are its modes of action? and why is it so damn expensive?

The ingredients are listed by weight, so lets brake down a gallon of Nuke em.
1 gallon of water is 3780 grams, so
0.05% citric acid comes out to 1.89 grams per gallon.
9.43% yeast is 0.7858lbs per gallon
0.02% of potassium Sorbate is 0.756 grams ger gallon.

Even at the hydro stop, I get 1.6lb of citric acid cystals of 16$, so if my math is right, 1.89 grams is 4 cents worth of citric acid.
Brewer's yeast is about 7$/lb so 0.7858lb of yeast comes out to $5.50
I found potassium sorbate @ $18.50/lb (shiping included) on google. If my math is right again, that 0.756 grams costs 3 cents.
$0.04
$5.50
$0.03
$5.57 of active and inactive ingredients in a gallon of concentrate that retails for $55!
Of course that cost doesn't take into account labor, packaging, distribution and overhead on the manufacturing facility, but unless there is something missing here, this seems like an easy recipe to replicate.

Do anny of y'all have any thoughts on this product?
am I missing something here?
Feel free to share your experiences with Nuke em, success and failures!


EDIT: I looked a bit closer at the second label and noticed "Nuke em is not registered with the US Federal Environmental Protection Agency. Its formula qualifies for exemption under FIFRA section 25 (b) as a minimum risk pesticide. "
This may be why they can change their label's active ingredient claims.”
i’m Buying rest of stuff and I will def report with my “beta” version

FUCK PAYING $400 for 2.5 a gal when it’s 8 fl a gal rate
Have you made anyheadway with this. I got to tell you the numbers seem way the hell off.
5% citric acid solution is 193 grams per gallon not 1.89
FDA has a rule on sodium benzoate at .1% of product by weight
Potassium Sorbate is usually 2 to 4 %
Potassium Salts of Fatty acids are 1%
Yeast at 9.43% cant be 3/4 of a pound per gallon

Anyways this is the reasearch I have done so far. Where are you with it.
 
Flying Skull Nuke em: hate em or Love em . It’s still good defense stuff for as a addition since no one should use same spray every time .


well I was thinking : $400 for 2.5 gal for citric acid pesticide ? Fuck them! ( so many of the companies use same brews , close enough ;))

So If we could figure out the ratios and just buy the bulk and just be it our self it will save all of us a million . Won’t even prolly be hard :)

LETS FIGURE IT OUT ( I suck at measurements , that’s why I’m here )

* question is what yeast do I need to use and what percentage (everything in Inert Ingredients besides water lol)



Active Ingredients
Citric acid 0.05%

Inert Ingredients
Water, Yeast (Enzymes), Potassium Salts of Fatty Acids,
Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate
Total: 100.00%


Thanks
I am trying to just make a natural eczematic cleaner as I’ve literally spend thousands with a company who does and it literally works for everything including as a pesticide. Upon trying to make my own I’m not doing something right which is what lead me to google. Lol Actually your measurements sound really accurate. The ingredients listed on the side of the bottle of The commercial bottle say 0.65% citric acid and 99.35% water, yeast and potassium sorbate. I’m not trying to add in the other ingredient. But wholeheartedly agree that if we can figure out how to put them together will save a bundle. I initially began using their cleaner as a pesticide as I got bird mites from nests that were on the roof of a town house I moved into and it worked wonders! It works by dissolving the putter shell of any pest I found even on roaches in a friends apartment. I’ll let u know of any updates I run into while playing with it and then maybe u just will have to figure out your last ingredient if u haven’t already!
 
Hello, I was doing some “research” yesterday and I am “shocked” a) about the price for Nuke ‘Em, and the extremely simple ingredients and how simple it is to make yourself. Here is my DIY Nuke ‘Em recipe. (You can get these ingredients very cheap in stores which carry soap making stuff and on ebay)

Screw’Em - Insecticide and Fungicide

(Against aphids such as spider mites, broad- and russet mites, thrips, whitefly etc. Also prevents mould, fungus and powdery mildew. Safe, non-toxic, can also be used on buds and can also prevent mould on buds after harvest)

INGREDIENTS
  • Insecticidal Soap (also called Potassium Soap) (10-20ml)
  • Distilled Water (1L)
  • Yeast (fresh brewery yeast or dry yeast) (20g)
  • Lemon Juice (8.5ml)
  • Potassium Sorbate (500mg)
  • Sodium Benzoate (500mg)
I am using Insecticidal Soap for a long time for spraying , I assume the added ingredients in Nuke ‘Em are to give the spray more oomph. The Lemon Juice, the Potassium Sorbate and the Sodium Benzoate are preservatives for the solution but they also prevent mold, fungus, powdery mildew etc. which IMO insecticidal soap alone can’t do. There may also be other insecticidal effects from these ingredients. The Yeast is possibly added so that bugs which are not instantly killed are eating the stuff so that the spray has a double-effect, which may be needed for some more difficult critters like broad mites.

I established the percentages based on the label for Nuke’Em and other info I found on the web, eg. what a typical percentage for Potassium Sorbate etc. is…so this may not be 100% accurate like in the original, but it should do.

INSTRUCTIONS
  • Make 1L of insecticidal soap solution according to instructions for your insecticidal soap. (Typical is 10-20ml insecticidal soap for 1L water). (I use distilled water since with water from the tap the soap can be flaking)
  • Add 8.5ml of Lemon Juice. Lemon Juice contains 5-6% of citric acid, so this comes to 0.05% of citric acid for 1L solution. You could also use citric acid directly, but why bother as everyone really has lemon juice.
  • Dissolve yeast in the solution. I have no information about the exact amount of yeast to use, but I would add about 20g. Reason being that the yeast comes before the “Soap” (respective “potassium salts of fatty acids”) in the ingredient list for Nuke’Em. As we know we should use 10-20g of soap, take about the same amount or a little more of Yeast.
  • Add 500mg of Sodium Benzoate
  • Add 500mg of Potassium Sorbate

NOTES

If you want to make larger batches: Above is for 1L. 1 gal = 3.785L.

As this contains preservatives, it should be possible to make this spray and store for some time.

Use a good garden sprayer for spraying. A manual garden pressure sprayer is much better than these dinky hand sprayers. If you don’t have a pressure sprayer, trust me the $15 or whatever they cost is well worth it.

Use the usual precautions, like not spraying in direct sun, spray either at night before lights off or even better early in the morning. Spray your plants well, also the underside of the leaves. I am using insecticidal soap against aphids etc. for a long time and it has never in any way, harmed the plants. The list of ingredients for this DIY looks safe to me, and should also be safe on buds, unlike eg. Neem which would give your buds an awful taste. This DIY spray should also be good not only for aphids but also for mould, fungus, powdery mildew etc.

Try it!
 
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Do you use this in flower for mites ect? I've been turned on to D-limonene recently but was not sure at what rate to dilute it and/or how to mix it with water so as not to burn plants. I'm a commercial grower looking to move away from the name brand products that are extremely pricey when you're spraying 5-10,000ft2 of facility. And looking for the RIGHT product for spot treating in late flower leaving zero residue.

I talked to the owner at Orange Guard and he swears it's basically the cure all for bugs as a killer and deterrent. but his product is $$$ and already diluted.

Your thoughts?
 
Do you use this in flower for mites ect? I've been turned on to D-limonene recently but was not sure at what rate to dilute it and/or how to mix it with water so as not to burn plants. I'm a commercial grower looking to move away from the name brand products that are extremely pricey when you're spraying 5-10,000ft2 of facility. And looking for the RIGHT product for spot treating in late flower leaving zero residue.

I talked to the owner at Orange Guard and he swears it's basically the cure all for bugs as a killer and deterrent. but his product is $$$ and already diluted.

Your thoughts?
Check the label- 5.8% limonene, 0.46 lb./ gallon. Dillute 6-8 parts water to 1 part Orange guard.
 
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Check the label- 5.8% limonene, 0.46 lb./ gallon. Dillute 6-8 parts water to 1 part Orange guard.
Thanks man, I know how to dilute Orange Guard, i meant on the pure orange oil you posted. How are you diluting that? Buying pure orange oil would be much more cost effective on a commercial scale. Just want to make sure I'm mixing it right. Do you do anything special to dissolve it into the water?
 
Yikes! I forgot that Nuke'Em has to be diluted as well!
So use 1g yeast and only 0.4ml lemon juice per L of solution! (I can't edit my post)
Hi. I'm mixing some of your recipe up. Question: Would this already be diluted and ready to go? Or does it need to be diluted? Thanks in advance for your opinion!
 
Thanks man, I know how to dilute Orange Guard, i meant on the pure orange oil you posted. How are you diluting that? Buying pure orange oil would be much more cost effective on a commercial scale. Just want to make sure I'm mixing it right. Do you do anything special to dissolve it into the water?
Aromatic oils tend to be ~1% final solution. Build a Soil says
MIX AT .25 TO .50 OUNCE aromatic oils PER GALLON

You also need an emulsifier like Agsil16H, Yucca, Aloe or Dr. Bronners Soap.
 
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