Homesteader
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Here is how to build a nice light using a cheap griddle and some high tech SMDs. Any slop is then taken care of with solder wick and alcohol once your finished but its best to use only as much paste as will be needed. Ensure you have ventilation, flux is nasty to breathe in.
Heat the MCPCB up to 400 degrees using the electric griddle as you dab a small amount of no clean solder paste on the contacts and then place the emitters in the right direction (+/-) Pushing the dome down and squeezing out any excess solder once it tins is a little tricky but its not that difficult after a few tries of getting the amount of paste right. A good set of tweezers makes this easier I think. You just want to ensure the emitter pulls back onto the contact in both directions to ensure you have a good solder coverage on the entire pad.
The other difficult part is determining cathode or anode but make sure you have the correct datasheet and grab them out of their packaging the same way every time you grab it. The Cathode ussually has a notch on one side but sometimes it can be on the anode side, which is why you need to look at the datasheet for whatever emitters you are using.
I included a shopping list with links for anyone interested in getting started. I am running these Osram SSL80s running at 2.1 amps currently as a test seeing how it is well beyond their limit but it may be wiser to run them with a driver that is pushing 1.4a or lower for the long term and with a fan. The Osram SSL80s have a beam angle of 80 degrees so it limits the need for reflectors. It would be wiser IMO to mount a 9v fan in case the oscillating fans get turned off for some reason. Ground driver to heatsink and use a GFCI at the wall.
The mounting could be spread out to whatever you prefer as most COBs are built, I was testing out heat from a close setup with this and they seemed to do fine with both SMD and cree COBs. I might be forgetting or have a broken link below so let me know if you have any questions.
Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station $100
https://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Soldering-Statio…/…/B00AWUFVY8
$20 Presto electric griddle
https://www.target.com/p/presto-174-cool-touc…/-/A-10740155…
Adjustable 30v power supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5…
Adura/Sinkpad 1971 PCB (Printed Circuit Board) $2-3 each
http://aduraled.com/…/1971-66mm-round-oslon-ssl-sandra-opti…
Osram SSL80 3500k $1-$2 each
https://www.mouser.com/…/OSRAM-Opt…/GW-CS8PM1PM-LRLT-XX56-1…
No clean solder paste 37/63
https://www.digikey.com/…/chip…/SMD291AX/SMD291AX-ND/1160002
Solid core 18 AWG hook-up wire (Red and Black)
https://www.digikey.com/…/781801-BK0…/781801BK005-ND/4935174
https://www.digikey.com/…/781801-RD0…/781801RD005-ND/4935175
Meanwell HLG-240H-C2100B driver (A version if you don’t want dimming)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/…
If you do run the B version with dimming (recommended)
1 Cased Potentiometer $6
https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/
Grounded power cord (I would recommend longer than you need by a few feet.)
https://www.rapidled.com/3-prong-us-power-cord-6/
Heat Shrink tubing kit
https://www.digikey.com/…/Q2-Z-QK1-01-6I…/Q2Z1-KIT-ND/754916
140mm round Pin Fin Heat sink
https://www.rapidled.com/140mm-pin-heatsink/
2 part thermal epoxy
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=8329TCM-6ML&v=473
I left out a rivet gun, tweezers, rivets, drill and aluminum channel bar but they can all be found at the box store.
Heat the MCPCB up to 400 degrees using the electric griddle as you dab a small amount of no clean solder paste on the contacts and then place the emitters in the right direction (+/-) Pushing the dome down and squeezing out any excess solder once it tins is a little tricky but its not that difficult after a few tries of getting the amount of paste right. A good set of tweezers makes this easier I think. You just want to ensure the emitter pulls back onto the contact in both directions to ensure you have a good solder coverage on the entire pad.
The other difficult part is determining cathode or anode but make sure you have the correct datasheet and grab them out of their packaging the same way every time you grab it. The Cathode ussually has a notch on one side but sometimes it can be on the anode side, which is why you need to look at the datasheet for whatever emitters you are using.
I included a shopping list with links for anyone interested in getting started. I am running these Osram SSL80s running at 2.1 amps currently as a test seeing how it is well beyond their limit but it may be wiser to run them with a driver that is pushing 1.4a or lower for the long term and with a fan. The Osram SSL80s have a beam angle of 80 degrees so it limits the need for reflectors. It would be wiser IMO to mount a 9v fan in case the oscillating fans get turned off for some reason. Ground driver to heatsink and use a GFCI at the wall.
The mounting could be spread out to whatever you prefer as most COBs are built, I was testing out heat from a close setup with this and they seemed to do fine with both SMD and cree COBs. I might be forgetting or have a broken link below so let me know if you have any questions.
Hakko FX-888D Soldering Station $100
https://www.amazon.com/Bundle-Soldering-Statio…/…/B00AWUFVY8
$20 Presto electric griddle
https://www.target.com/p/presto-174-cool-touc…/-/A-10740155…
Adjustable 30v power supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZBCLJSY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5…
Adura/Sinkpad 1971 PCB (Printed Circuit Board) $2-3 each
http://aduraled.com/…/1971-66mm-round-oslon-ssl-sandra-opti…
Osram SSL80 3500k $1-$2 each
https://www.mouser.com/…/OSRAM-Opt…/GW-CS8PM1PM-LRLT-XX56-1…
No clean solder paste 37/63
https://www.digikey.com/…/chip…/SMD291AX/SMD291AX-ND/1160002
Solid core 18 AWG hook-up wire (Red and Black)
https://www.digikey.com/…/781801-BK0…/781801BK005-ND/4935174
https://www.digikey.com/…/781801-RD0…/781801RD005-ND/4935175
Meanwell HLG-240H-C2100B driver (A version if you don’t want dimming)
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/…
If you do run the B version with dimming (recommended)
1 Cased Potentiometer $6
https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/
Grounded power cord (I would recommend longer than you need by a few feet.)
https://www.rapidled.com/3-prong-us-power-cord-6/
Heat Shrink tubing kit
https://www.digikey.com/…/Q2-Z-QK1-01-6I…/Q2Z1-KIT-ND/754916
140mm round Pin Fin Heat sink
https://www.rapidled.com/140mm-pin-heatsink/
2 part thermal epoxy
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?mpart=8329TCM-6ML&v=473
I left out a rivet gun, tweezers, rivets, drill and aluminum channel bar but they can all be found at the box store.
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