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DIY LED Component Recommendations

  • Thread starter Thread starter JohnnyApp
  • Start date Start date Feb 28, 2020
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DIY LED Component Recommendations

JohnnyApp Feb 28, 2020 32 Replies 12,099 Views
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JohnnyApp

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#1
Seeking advice regarding custom LED grow lights.

I've been growing under mh/hps fixtures since 2007 and have essentially peaked out at a hair over 1gpw with SE digital ballasts.

I see led lighting as the future of the industry, however, the initial cost of straight out box brands such as Gavita, Black dog, Fluence, Spyder, ect seems incredibly inflated and I assume, as with all trades, the final price is 2-3x actual cost.

I am mechanically inclined and have always built out my own rooms, and installed/serviced all of my own equipment, including HVAC and electrical systems. Building light fixtures seems like the next logical step as any desired components could be used, and shortcuts could be avoided while saving a ton of $$$.

Any and all guidance is appreciated!
 
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specklefart

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#2
 
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specklefart

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#3
I hope that wasn’t patronizing. All you need is an LED driver, LEDs and a frame. Popular LED options are cobs, strips and quantum boards. I’ve used quantum boards, but strips are probably better for coverage.

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Quantum Boards®

Quantum Boards® by Horticulture Lighting Group Quantum Boards® are our line world's highest efficiency horticulture light engines. Checkout our grow Lamps powered by these light engines.
horticulturelightinggroup.com
 
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JohnnyApp

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#4
No, sorry if it came across that way, I just wanted to provide a little background in an effort to bring about posts from more knowledgeable members and not necessarily prevent them from making an in depth explanation.

Before posting I first tried digging into existing threads and pretty much everything was topical, like "Fluence is the best", or "Hlg is killin it" type stuff, rather than actually explaining why.

Thank you for your reply.

Hlg diy kits are currently where im leaning, I like the idea of strips for coverage but I also am not opposed to qb.

I picked up 4 light rails for my hps's about 6 months ago in an attempt to increase their efficiency and I'm happy with the results, but I also recognize that hps is on its way out, a slow death I'm sure, but death nonetheless. The rails could be used with the QBs to improve coverage

Is coverage your only gripe with qb or is there anything else about them your unsatisfied with?
 
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Dan789

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#5
For a plug and play solution, I ordered a rapid led kit light, sourced the frame components, nice light.
 
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specklefart

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#6
I meant I hope the video wasn’t patronizing! (Too basic)

I love my quantum boards. You just have to get them spaced correctly. Migro has a short video where he builds one. I wanted three fixtures that I could move around between veg and flower. Ignore how my lights are hung at the moment...

The QB120s don’t require a heat sink. The qb288s need one if you’re running over 75 watts per board. If you buy the heat sink with a single QB it only adds like $13. I used 3/4x3/4x1/8 angle aluminum to make the frame. $10 for 4 ft at Home Depot.

I think the hardest part is determining your driver requirements. Figuring out the current you want to run, etc. Between HLG’s website and growmau’s videos you won’t have a problem.
 

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JohnnyApp

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#7
specklefart said:
I meant I hope the video wasn’t patronizing! (Too basic)

I love my quantum boards. You just have to get them spaced correctly. Migro has a short video where he builds one. I wanted three fixtures that I could move around between veg and flower. Ignore how my lights are hung at the moment...

The QB120s don’t require a heat sink. The qb288s need one if you’re running over 75 watts per board. If you buy the heat sink with a single QB it only adds like $13. I used 3/4x3/4x1/8 angle aluminum to make the frame. $10 for 4 ft at Home Depot.

I think the hardest part is determining your driver requirements. Figuring out the current you want to run, etc. Between HLG’s website and growmau’s videos you won’t have a problem.
Click to expand...
No worries, sometimes the way I ask questions comes across a bit overboard so I assumed lol

I'll ignore how your lights are hung if you ignore how my girls are hookey booed up on buckets , veg room got overgrown, had to pop in some 600s temporarily before flower

I'll definitely check out both. I watched one of migrows earlier, he gave an impartial review of lumeteks new 600w pro led fixture, a welcomed change from the typical marketing bs, cough, kind, blackdog..

Definitely need 240v capability, I have an 8xt controller, but I haven't hooked it up in this room yet, just finished spray foaming, fun project.., still need to run a 50amp line for the light controller and Install a door to seal off the room. Exchanging air currently but the co2 controller is ready to roll

So, driver and current requirements, noted. I appreciate the reply, danka!
 

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JohnnyApp

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#8
Dan789 said:
For a plug and play solution, I ordered a rapid led kit light, sourced the frame components, nice light.
Click to expand...
Which supplier did you choose? The diy kit that caught my eye was hlg but I noticed their warranty drops from 3 yrs for the 550 to 1 for the diy.

So far from what I've gathered Samsung is top dog for chips and meanwell for drivers. Hopefully spelled correctly..
 
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specklefart

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#9
Yeah meanwell drivers have like a 5-7 year warranty. They run cooler at 240V so that controller will work nicely.
 
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Formallyhap

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#10
you grow almost exactly like the guy across the street from me that moved.
Is that setup a tutorial somewhere?
 
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Dan789

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#11
JohnnyApp said:
Which supplier did you choose? The diy kit that caught my eye was hlg but I noticed their warranty drops from 3 yrs for the 550 to 1 for the diy.

So far from what I've gathered Samsung is top dog for chips and meanwell for drivers. Hopefully spelled correctly..
Click to expand...
Should have been more specific, from Rapid Led I bought a kit that gave me the choice of Cree cobs, and meanwell drivers...the framing I used was the 2020 square section aluminum tubing.
 

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JohnnyApp

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#12
Dan789 said:
Should have been more specific, from Rapid Led I bought a kit that gave me the choice of Cree cobs, and meanwell drivers...the framing I used was the 2020 square section aluminum tubing.
Click to expand...
Very cool .

I'm still trying to decide between cobs, strips or QBs. Not an easy choice. I do appreciate the more rugged nature of the cobs vs the QBs and strips but I also like the idea of spreading the light as consistently as possible.

If I had a dime for ever time I walked into a hood while working lol..

How's the yield? Gpw?
 
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JohnnyApp

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#13
Formallyhap said:
you grow almost exactly like the guy across the street from me that moved.
Is that setup a tutorial somewhere?
Click to expand...
No, not that I'm aware of

I found the concept on YouTube and then after seeing the absorbent prices from manufacturers, decided to simply build my own.

Materials per planter run approximately $22 and build time is about 15-20 minutes with nothing more than a drill, bit, hole saw kit, and a sawzall or pvc cutter.

I always like to diy my projects bc the grow industry is ridiculously overpriced, they tag us every chance they get..
 
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Dan789

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#14
JohnnyApp said:
Very cool .

I'm still trying to decide between cobs, strips or QBs. Not an easy choice. I do appreciate the more rugged nature of the cobs vs the QBs and strips but I also like the idea of spreading the light as consistently as possible.

If I had a dime for ever time I walked into a hood while working lol..

How's the yield? Gpw?
Click to expand...
do you see any shadows?, the six hundred watt from the wall load fills a 4x4 without problem and without the heat load that driving less cobs with more wattage, and as you must know GPW is strain and total growth time veg/bloom dependent.
 

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MIMedGrower

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#15
Dan789 said:
Should have been more specific, from Rapid Led I bought a kit that gave me the choice of Cree cobs, and meanwell drivers...the framing I used was the 2020 square section aluminum tubing.
Click to expand...


Man thats a nice setup. Thats how i want to do it too. Just a tip i read from timber lighting. They say after much testing to remove the reflectors. They insist better spread and can be run closer to the plants. They only include the reflectors now if you ask. The owner mentions this on threads and it is written on the website if you are interested.
 
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JohnnyApp

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#16
JohnnyApp said:
No, not that I'm aware of

I found the concept on YouTube and then after seeing the absorbent prices from manufacturers, decided to simply build my own.

Materials per planter run approximately $22 and build time is about 15-20 minutes with nothing more than a drill, bit, hole saw kit, and a sawzall or pvc cutter.

I always like to diy my projects bc the grow industry is ridiculously overpriced, they tag us every chance they get..
Click to expand...
Could be cheaper with smaller containers as well, but I found that it's easier to manage 1 larger container than several buckets
Dan789 said:
do you see any shadows?, the six hundred watt from the wall load fills a 4x4 without problem and without the heat load that driving less cobs with more wattage, and as you must know GPW is strain and total growth time veg/bloom dependent.
Click to expand...
I could have phrased my question better, twas a bit late.

Essentially, have you grown that strain using hps light, and if so, how did the gpw compare between them?

I've flowered Grease monkey underneath both hid and led (older 2015/16 models) and what I found was that using digital se hps I peaked around around 1gpw and with my old school leds my gpw was never higher than .85 and was typically closer to .8

That being said, the LEDs did produce a frostier product
 
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Dan789

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#17
MIMedGrower said:
Man thats a nice setup. Thats how i want to do it too. Just a tip i read from timber lighting. They say after much testing to remove the reflectors. They insist better spread and can be run closer to the plants. They only include the reflectors now if you ask. The owner mentions this on threads and it is written on the website if you are interested.
Click to expand...
Thanks, easy enough to take care of, kind of got used to them to tell the truth, but progress...
 
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Dan789

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#18
JohnnyApp said:
Could be cheaper with smaller containers as well, but I found that it's easier to manage 1 larger container than several buckets
I could have phrased my question better, twas a bit late.

Essentially, have you grown that strain using hps light, and if so, how did the gpw compare between them?

I've flowered Grease monkey underneath both hid and led (older 2015/16 models) and what I found was that using digital se hps I peaked around around 1gpw and with my old school leds my gpw was never higher than .85 and was typically closer to .8

That being said, the LEDs did produce a frostier product
Click to expand...

I’ve been bluple, then cob led for all of my growing indoors, tried outside a four or five years, but not for me and not in my neighborhood, as we’re all stacked (it seems) together...So no handy comparisons. Another thing that always stayed my hand on the hps and mh were the heat they produced, just didn’t want to test my homeowners insurance, and all that pesky rebuilding stuff...
That didn’t even touch the extra power being used with those higher wattage lights. (Being in California where we’ve got some of the highest rates electrical anywhere) But added some roof top solar panels and zero’d out my electricity, so now just paying for the gas to old PGE.
 
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JohnnyApp

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#19
MIMedGrower said:
Man thats a nice setup. Thats how i want to do it too. Just a tip i read from timber lighting. They say after much testing to remove the reflectors. They insist better spread and can be run closer to the plants. They only include the reflectors now if you ask. The owner mentions this on threads and it is written on the website if you are interested.
Click to expand...
Dan789 said:
I’ve been bluple, then cob led for all of my growing indoors, tried outside a four or five years, but not for me and not in my neighborhood, as we’re all stacked (it seems) together...So no handy comparisons. Another thing that always stayed my hand on the hps and mh were the heat they produced, just didn’t want to test my homeowners insurance, and all that pesky rebuilding stuff...
Click to expand...
Thanks for the honest reply.

Heat is definitely an obstacle. I've controlled it using various methods over the years starting with portable ac, to ice boxes, to mini splits. Prefer not using the glass, so mini splits we're the best fit while running co2, but water cooling was also nice. Even saw a guy use his ice boxes as mini splits essentially one time, mounted to the wall.

Ran the chiller during off peak hours to cool a 200g res, then harvested the cooling btus

Water cooling is something I really liked doing, much more efficient than forced air and Ms ac, as water resists temperature change significantly more than cooled air.

This winter I ever piped the exhaust into my furnaces return and cut the gas bill in half from last year while running 4k of hps My co2 system was not being used at that time, just active air exchange. Carbon filters we're used inline.

Summer time is a different ball game altogether, but piping the heat directly to the return during winter time was a great way to utilize the heat generated. My climate is cold about half the year so it's a bit of a toss up
 
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Dan789

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#20
Often thought while using the A/C during the mostly brutal summers here, that a water intercooler combined with the A/C condenser would be a smart move, for the same thought you’ve mentioned about the better efficacy of the denser medium, water. But then by heating the pool water, the water then tends to evaporate more, and now that we may be entering another draught situation, retention of water again gains our attention. A conundrum...Gods thing I’ve got a good hobby to otherwise occupy my time...hehehe, growing.
 
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Replies 32
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Started Feb 28, 2020
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Forum L.E.D Grow Lights

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