JohnnyApp
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I always wanted to bury a 200g+ watertight container underground, below 42", so as to harness the natural cooling effect of the earth without the risk of freezing.Often thought while using the A/C during the mostly brutal summers here, that a water intercooler combined with the A/C condenser would be a smart move, for the same thought you’ve mentioned about the better efficacy of the denser medium, water. But then by heating the pool water, the water then tends to evaporate more, and now that we may be entering another draught situation, retention of water again gains our attention. A conundrum...Gods thing I’ve got a good hobby to otherwise occupy my time...hehehe, growing.
I always wanted to bury a 200g+ watertight container underground, below 42", so as to harness the natural cooling effect of the earth without the risk of freezing.
If the BTUs/res surface area and size were calculated properly, all you would need to run electrical wise would be a small horticultural pump/s and a corresponding number of ice boxes and fans.
The earth Maintains a consistent cooler temperature and will not freeze 42" below grade, free ac. Eliminate the condenser and you eliminate the Lion's share of your electrical consumption.
One day;)
I always wanted to bury a 200g+ watertight container underground, below 42", so as to harness the natural cooling effect of the earth without the risk of freezing.
If the BTUs/res surface area and size were calculated properly, all you would need to run electrical wise would be a small horticultural pump/s and a corresponding number of ice boxes and fans.
The earth Maintains a consistent cooler temperature and will not freeze 42" below grade, free ac. Eliminate the condenser and you eliminate the Lion's share of your electrical consumption.
One day;)Those lights look sick and I know that company knows it's stuff. I just found/finished reading their 17pg instruction manual.A simple container underground probably isn't going to achieve much cooling, there's not enough surface area in contact with the ground. Tubing will work great though, if you're ever serious about it just look into what people do for their diy geothermal systems (I think they often use coiled irrigation pipe) and adapt it for your use.
Regarding your lights though, I'd seriously push towards bar style lights. The spread on them gives you a lot more usable light across the canopy than quantum boards. I can't help you on the diy aspect of it as I just bought Fluence lights, but I can definitely vouch for how much better the bar style is in general.
The information they provided regarding ppfd, co2, vpd, ect, was one of the most comprehensive, yet straight to the point, sources of info I've found.
I'd venture to say those 17 pages were more valuable than the entire grow Bible combined, and multiplied haha..
After reading it, I'm not nearly as apprehensive about buying one of their fixtures bc my fear was always, it's hype and the company just wants money, but they put that to sleep last night.
I need 8 of those yesterday
I'm going to email them regarding growing with amended organics and see if they'd be able to recommend an appropriate ppfd/co2/temps ect.
My guess is that the organics may be a limiting factor on the high side of their recommended variables, due to the slow release nature of the amendments, but that's just a guess..
Can't wait to see some pics of your progress
No, sorry if it came across that way, I just wanted to provide a little background in an effort to bring about posts from more knowledgeable members and not necessarily prevent them from making an in depth explanation.
Before posting I first tried digging into existing threads and pretty much everything was topical, like "Fluence is the best", or "Hlg is killin it" type stuff, rather than actually explaining why.
Thank you for your reply.
Hlg diy kits are currently where im leaning, I like the idea of strips for coverage but I also am not opposed to qb.
I picked up 4 light rails for my hps's about 6 months ago in an attempt to increase their efficiency and I'm happy with the results, but I also recognize that hps is on its way out, a slow death I'm sure, but death nonetheless. The rails could be used with the QBs to improve coverage
Is coverage your only gripe with qb or is there anything else about them your unsatisfied with?
I bought one of the HLG 660 watt kits a few months ago to replace my 1000w HPS & I love it. Great results & cheap to operate.Seeking advice regarding custom LED grow lights.
I've been growing under mh/hps fixtures since 2007 and have essentially peaked out at a hair over 1gpw with SE digital ballasts.
I see led lighting as the future of the industry, however, the initial cost of straight out box brands such as Gavita, Black dog, Fluence, Spyder, ect seems incredibly inflated and I assume, as with all trades, the final price is 2-3x actual cost.
I am mechanically inclined and have always built out my own rooms, and installed/serviced all of my own equipment, including HVAC and electrical systems. Building light fixtures seems like the next logical step as any desired components could be used, and shortcuts could be avoided while saving a ton of $$$.
Any and all guidance is appreciated!
I’ve used quantum boards, but strips are probably better for coverage.
quantum boards are basically just newer version of that but with SMD mounted leds so it's not serviceable really
What size is that tent?Should have been more specific, from Rapid Led I bought a kit that gave me the choice of Cree cobs, and meanwell drivers...the framing I used was the 2020 square section aluminum tubing.
2x 4x4.What size is that tent?
Yes, now sporting the light with the reflectors removed...Man thats a nice setup. Thats how i want to do it too. Just a tip i read from timber lighting. They say after much testing to remove the reflectors. They insist better spread and can be run closer to the plants. They only include the reflectors now if you ask. The owner mentions this on threads and it is written on the website if you are interested.
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