HughJassBud
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I'm running 315W worth of COBs in an 1x1m tent and get the temperature to raise 10°C above ambient temperature if the tent stays closed and my exhaust on high. Even at the highest efficacy like 50% you still have half of the power provided to ypur lights turned into heat which you'll have to get rid of.
Water cooling is an option but so is an enclosure with intake of cold air from outside the room being exhausted again outside the room so no smell management is needed.
Ok, as I think about this more 1kw of anything is going to put off some heat. Assuming I run 20 of those CXB3590's @ 72V, 700mA that will equate to about 1000watts. Between the drivers and everything I think it will have to be vented in order to be viable. I wonder, if you know it will be vented in series with another hood using a 6" inline fan, can you design a panel and heatsink inside a traditional hood that would not require additional fans on the heatsink itself.
Raptor hoods bootton surface where the glass is at is about 42 x 31 inches i think. heatsink usa makes 10 inch width heatsinks that Realstyles uses in whatever length you want. Would it be reasonable to have 4 of these, 31 inches long with 5 cobs each and one driver each put side by side to basically fill the 31 x 42 inch footprint? Is that overkill?
yeah man that would be one badass hood if you pulled it off.i didnt realize how fuckin big those hoods are lol
plc prices on the pin sinks are very competitive,heres a almost identical heatsink https://www.cdiweb.com/ProductDetail/LPF11180ZHEB--mechatronix/573584/
start factoring shipping and they go right up there lol. anyway,i dont think you really need these style hs for a cooled hood style build.the pin fins need no extra cooling other than your normal grow room air flow,thats what makes them appealing.im thinking you can source some cheap ass flat style heat sinks like mars uses for your build being that its cooling is the strong point. or use some super cheap cpu coolers,you wont need the fans with these but it gives you another option and theres hundreds of cpu coolers out there. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186062
you wanna get rid of your mars lights ?i just put my 2 mars 400 back in their boxes, all DIY now, Supra thank you man thank you very much
WwW
Im literally fucked up while settin a DIY LED project for my 1,5sqfeet closet
Please look those emitters
My final decision is 70 red 20 blue 5 white 5 green
Total 100 led and in my country they sell 0,65 euro each tell me your opinions please
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I was almost sure finally gonna build right thing w/o doubt I just need your good thoughts please help me to complete this project my plants failing and failing for two years finally Im gonna gathered some money to spend on this
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Driver pcb cooler advises well accepted
If anyone want to help and share hisorher thoughts deeply with me
Levradus@gmail.com
+905547740824
Currently working on a ship lota of times to set a project on a paper please help me to make it finest
Good luck u
I's sure there are some that will disagree with me about this, but I have avoided LED up until now primarily as a result of the Inverse Square Law of Light
View attachment 606318
Basically, this translates to bud density IMO. This is the ONLY advantage (in terms of plant growth) I find in a 1000 watt bulb vs a 600 watt bulb aside from a slightly larger coverage area and depth. Which is the next things this factors into. If you are growing your plants somewhat short and stocky, low-intensity, high-volume LEDs will probably be quite effective. Others can speak to this better than me.
On the other hand, if you are trying to replace a HPS fixture in a flower environment, you will need a relatively high point source to penetrate and effectively illuminate taller plant's potato size nuggets. LED's, to me, are really interesting in that you can achieve this a couple different ways.
I have seen some people simply hang LED's everywhere around a plant for example so that there was always a relatively intense source of light close by to whatever needed growing. This seems like it works pretty well for a closet situation or cabinet grow for example where plant height is limited and other factors are in favor of that type of design.
Now, technology of LED's has improved tremendously. Not only are they more efficient, but they are brighter as well. I am not as abreast of single diode technology, but I have read a little about 3w, 5w, and 10w diodes. The 3w diode, capable of penetrating 3-5ft effectively, I think is really where the peak efficiency to penetration is found on today's current technology based on my research. This is mostly a product of thermal dissipation. 5w and 10w diodes just put off too much heat and as such can not be packed as tightly together without increased risk of thermal failure. However, as per the illustration above, they would of course have greater penetration. Again, I haven't yet used any of this technology, I have just thoroughly considered it over the years and watched it develop.
Fast forward to COB technology. I didn't really see it going this way, but it seems logical. These are actually packing 100-1w diodes on a single chip. Because they are so densely populated you can essentially consider this "r" in the above illustration. So, they effectively work together like a single, very bright point source. The coverage and penetration should be much greater as a result of this as well.
I can't really say this next part better than wikipedia...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photosynthetically_active_radiation
Yield photon flux[edit]
Weighting factor for photosynthesis. The photon-weighted curve is for converting PPFD to YPF; the energy-weighted curve is for weighting PAR expressed in watts or joules.
PAR as described above does not distinguish between different wavelengths between 400 and 700 nm, and assumes that wavelengths outside this range have zero photosynthetic action. If the exact spectrum of the light is known, the photosynthetic photon flux density (PPFD) values in μmol/s can be modified by applying different weighting factor to different wavelengths. This results in a quantity called the yield photon flux (YPF).[3] The red curve in the graph shows that photons around 610 nm (orange-red) have the highest amount of photosynthesis per photon. However, because short-wavelength photons carry more energy per photon, the maximum amount of photosynthesis per incident unit of energy is at a longer wavelength, around 650 nm (deep red).
It has been noted that there is considerable misunderstanding over the effect of light quality on plant growth and many manufacturers claim significantly increased plant growth due to light quality (spectral distribution or the ratio of the colors).[4] A widely used estimate of the effect of light quality on photosynthesis comes from the Yield Photon Flux (YPF) curve, which indicates that orange and red photons between 600 to 630 nm can result in 20 to 30% more photosynthesis than blue or cyan photons between 400 and 540 nm.[5]
The YPF curve was developed from short-term measurements made on single leaves in low light. Some longer-term studies with whole plants in higher light indicate that light quality may have a smaller effect on plant growth rate than light quantity.[6]
What I take from this is that overall intensity is maybe slightly more important than specific wavelength....but I think the jury is still out on this. From the standpoint of the specific wavelengths you chose vs "white" COB lights, white light is just a combination of all the visible spectrum. So, you will be covered on all fronts with a "white" light. That being said, there are different colors of these lights expressed as ~6500k - 2700k. Higher numbers are more blue, lower numbers are more red. So just like floro's, you just choose a COB based on the application but you can expect good performance in any case because these are relatively efficient in both the red and blue spectrum.
I hope this was helpful to you. There are numerous threads with good info about LED's from people a lot smarter and more experienced than me. I know a little about physics and engineering, so I just try to lend that perspective.
Happy Growing and Good Luck!
Yeah, this what I was getting at. If using single diode LED, 3 watt is the way to go. If you can use COB'S though they essentially perform like one single large LED (point source), thus making them better. He is absolutely right about efficiency/heat. Spend the extra money today for the better technology or spend it tomorrow on electricity/heat mitigationThe heat that these larger diodes make is from them being less efficient. The wattage of the diode is irrelevant. The best cobs by cree only use one watt diodes, and penetrate as well as anything else on the market. The thing to look for is not the wattage of the diode, but the lumen output per watt consumed. The cree cxb is about 173 lumens per watt, using the 3500 kelvin cd bin 36 volt 1400 mah, running at 50 watts. Most diodes are between 50 to 75 lumens per watt. This will tell you how much per watt is being converted to light, and how much is being lost to heat. The bigger diodes are making less light and more heat in most cases. Focus not on the wattage of the diode, but the lumens per watt. That will tell you how efficient your diode is. Just know that the extra money you pay for better diodes will be spent on heat removal if you go the cheaper route. And you will be wasting more electricity on less efficient diodes, and even more electricity after that on fans or ac trying to remove the heat they create. So, try to find out the btu of the lights you want to buy and compare them to other lights on the market. Unfortunately, the best way to get great coverage with these 3590 cobs is to build your own light. The time invested will be worthwhile the very first harvest. I used to think that the 3 watt diodes were the best too, until I discovered the cree 3590 using one watt diodes. And the cxb 3590 is one of the best options right now. Just know you get out if something what you put into it. And this is definitely a worthy cause. Hope you figure out what you want to build, and go for it. Let us know what you think and the results of your grow. Good luck and happy growing to you !
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